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Everything posted by berkie

  1. I figured out the problem. When I put pressure on the hop up chamber towards the gearbox, it fires normally. There's a large gap between the Gearbox and the hop up chamber with only a plastic tube in between. The HSA barrel lockdown kit doesn't work on this gun, the O-rings are too big, but I will need to figure out a way to put more pressure on that hop up that it currently does. perhaps I should superglue the tube to the hop up chamber so there's absolutely no play in there.
  2. The barrel is a brand new pdi 05 and is cleaned and even with the r hop on the bb will pass straight through once its in the barrel or with a little push or puff. Im using the m nub. This problem also showed in the original lonex barrel but im wondering if sanding the tappet would fix it
  3. Its a full cylinder. The old one as well as the new one. I havent done the paper test yef but I don't feel anything when I hold my finger in front of the feeding tube. I can try putting in a smaller barrel if I have one lying around but usually 510mm would work fine with a full cylinder
  4. I bought this gun, broken, for pretty cheap. The problem was advertized as a hop up problem but its one I cant seem to fix. So far the bb drops to the ground at around 5 meters, and even less when I apply hop. Inside I have a lonex piston+head, stock piston+head stretched and have good compression. Theres a transition piece to make sure the long nozzle gets into the hop up chamber and the chamber has been replaced by a prommy neo strike with a pdi w hold bucking for seal and a rhop in a pdi 05 520mm barrel. The spring is a m130. Ive changed pretty much everything but the problem still happens. The nozzle is proprietary but isnt leaking and I don't really feel air escaping from the hop up and magwell. Im out of ideas for this one and I pretty much want to give it to a decent tech that can fix this if there was anyone actually near. I hope you guys have some idea
  5. That might possibly be it. I'm not sure if the big Diode works that way, but that's the only thing I've ordered from Ebay. The resistors come from a friend who works with X ray machines and the mosfet itself comes from a reputable dutch store. I'll try it out and when it trips I'll check the temperatures.
  6. The entire mosfet is covered in a big shrinktube so I think it's somewhat impossible for that to happen, and both prongs are seperately covered in shrink tube underneath.
  7. Extreme fire schematics. I followed the airsofttutorials tutorial which is the same minus the diode. that one I added myself following extremefire's build. Ill open it up later tonight for pics and will check for a broken insulation. It could be the selector wiring. I used wires from adata or network cable, which is smaller than 20 awg and is regular copper.
  8. Im using a 3034 mosfet but im not exactly sure which one. The battery 7,4v 20c 2000 mah from turnigy so it wasnt anything special.
  9. I made a mosfet following terry's design from unconventional airsoft and tested it about a week ago. the first day everything went fine, but the second day te FET tripped while briefing was going on and the selector was on safe. I quickly unplugged the battery adn after a minute plugged it in again. it didnt instantly start shooting but after a minute it began again. Because of this I don't believe I have a faulty fet but im unsure what it could be.
  10. I have one of these and like they said the m120 has difficulty because of the magnets. that said, the motor gives me a lot of overspin so it often shoots 3/5 shots in semi. putting a cheap high torque is a worthwile upgrade. Mine is still stock except for a tightbore and its shooting around 410/400 fps. I would chrono it first before swapping the spring.
  11. I've been toying with the idea of a budget high speed guide and I want this one to hits the limit of low price and high speed. my absolute max would be 200 including the gun, which costs 104 euros. So far ive selected Royal 13:1 gears with bearings in the axle and a aip hs-50000 motor on a shortstroked m120 spring, removing about 3/4 teeth ball bearing metal spring guide and steel 7mm bushings will be added, as well as a hkme made mosfet copied from Terry's design at unconventionalairsoft. Right now everythings in my budget but im not sure if a high speed combo with 13:1 gears can pull that spring. my field limit is 360 fps with 0,2 grams so I don't have as high a cap as most american fields. My original plan is to use a 11,1v lipo but if I still have PE I will downgrade to 7,4v. Ive seen that motor used with a 11,1v lipo 20c 1200mAh hitting 31 rps with standard gears . Doing 31*18*60 and the answer from that divided by 60 and 13 would mean he would hit 42/43 rps with 13:1 gears if my calculations are somewhat correct. How many removed teeth would lower my fps to below 360 fps, and would that also prevent PE. Edit: something ive forgotten to mention. I have lonex red pistons and a deep fire full metal teeth lying around but I wonder if those would be too heavy even after swiss cheesing. I would prefer using pistons with at least 5 steel teeth as ive never shortstroked before and do not own a dremel. ive seen a tutorial on airsofttutorials using a grinder of sorts. I wonder if that will work.
  12. As far as I know, lipo ready is just a marketing term to make stuff sell better. Have you shimmed your gears correctly, fixed your AoE and relubed the GB ? Does your aeg come with a mosfet and thick wiring ? Those are the things you need to check for starters.
  13. As I've said, I expect the gun to come in with Tamiya's while it's been made 'LiPo Ready'. I will solder them to Deans instead. as for gears, I dislike the SHS for their hit and miss and the ACMs are cheap, perhaps for a reason. I can get my hands on a Lonex gearset, but that would take a nother 2/3 weeks before they are shipped. I don't need the lonex drop in. I have half a gearbox that's as good as new and I can make do with pretty much everything lonex aside from gears.
  14. A guy I know has wrecked his gearbox recently. The guy had a TM M4 and he wanted to run it on 11V LiPo's so he went to some shop and had it checked. He had to pay 58 euro's just to have them have a look-see and he payed 26 euro's just to put in new wires. According to the shop owner the gun was now 'LiPo Ready' but he recommended shooting only single shot with those batteries. A half hour into the game he heard a weird sound coming from his gun, so he went to the safety and asked a marshall. Apparently his motor got loose ( ?? This happens ?? I've handled some V2's but in-game I'm an AK guy. ) and the marshall screwed it back up again. 15 minutes later, his GB sounds like a drill so he goes back to the safety and the marshall screws open the GB. Apparently his gears were stripped. So the marshall sold him a spare G&G V2 gearbox he had lying around with 8mm steel bushings. I don't mind that, I can work with a 8mm, but the box has some things missing. So after his very short skirmish he calls the guy that made his gun 'lipo ready' and tells his story. Mr. Mechanic doesn't believe he shot single-shot only that day and thinks he did a pretty good job. Then he asked him for the second time how much it would cost to make that gun LiPo ready, and the answer is 300 to 400 euro's. He spent 125 euro's on that gun already, just for that look-see, new wires and the G&G V2 gearbox. 300 to 400 euro's on top of that... now add in the fact that this story takes place in The Netherlands, where Airsoft is regulated as of March 2013. Only licenced arms dealers can sell and repair these guns for a living, but those guys have pretty much zero experience with airsoft mechanics, and they demand the jackpot for their services. A guy like me who takes his guns apart and mods them would have a lot more experience than these guys, is what I thought. I want to help that guy. He's been screwed over bigtime by that shop owner if his story's true, so I made the offer to help him out. He could send the gun to me, and I'd make it work for him free of charge. He only has to pay for the materials and shipping fees. I want to cut costs wherever I can, so whatever I can leave stock I will The materials I have listed are: Gearbox: G&G V2 w/ 8mm steel bushings motor: stock motor if the pinion is still in working condition, else a budget High Torque motor. gears: - Guarder 16:1 gears - SHS 13:1 / 16:1 gears - ACM 18:1 / 13:1 gears The gears are one thing I am unsure about. Siegetek gears are not an option due to budget reasons, and I've heard some horror stories about SHS that makes me want to drop those alltogether. I want these gears to last a long while, so I talked him away from 13:1 gears and towards 16:1 gears instead, if he likes the high speed setups. Due to FPS restrictions over here, we are only allowed to shoot with 1,2J (360 FPS with 0,20 grams) max. Which gears would you recommend that could last a long while. Piston: Lonex Blue M150. Due to our FPS regulations we only shoot with M100 to M110 springs max. This piston should be able to hold that kind of stress and ROF I believe. If not, please say so and I'll make it a Lonex Red M170 Piston Head: Lonex POM ventilation Spring Guide: Element V2 ball bearing full metal guide Tappet plate: Lonex V2 tappet plate. Due to the high ROF, I suggested that he would swap out tappet plates for a reinforced one air nozzle: Lonex M4a1 nozzle mods I will do for him - Shimming from bevel to sector - Fixing the AoE with Sorbo - relubing the gearbox - installing a IRLB3034 mosfet - rewiring gun and batteries to Deans Since this is not my gun, but someone else's gun who has had a unlucky streak with it, I want to make sure that this build will last. I don't mind making mistakes with my own guns, but with his, especially his, I want to make it last. The guy is adamant about his 11,1Vs so I tried slowing it down with a High Torque motor and ditching the 13:1 gears for 16:1's. I don't want to deal with shortstroking unless I have to. anyway, all advice, pointers, etc. is greatly appreciated. I can only speculate about why the gearbox failed and his gears got stripped in such short a time, but it should probably be shoddy work by the mechanic that had a look-see. TM gearboxes don't strip in such a short time is what I believe. The loose motor rang some warning bells too, but I cannot be sure. The guy tossed his broken gearbox away (WHY!) and he cannot send me any photos of the aftermath. I will receive his gun next week, and I can take a good long look at the motor. If there are tamiya connectors and no mosfet in that gun... I don't know what I'd do but that is definitely NOT lipo ready.
  15. Those shops won't sell to The Netherlands, unless you can provide a NABV Relations number.
  16. JG torque motors are quite torque-ey, I believe. The wiring in my JG HK416 is already silver plated, 16 AWG, so be sure to check that out first. Mine also has a mosfet already installed. As is said before, shim, fix your AoE and relube and swap out your bushings for some steel 7mm ones. Check your wiring and replace if needed. You should at least get the 16 AWG silver plated wiring with PTFE insulation. Deans > Tamiya is because Tamiya can only handle 15 amps of juice (said so in GolGo13's electric thread I believe), whereas Deans can handle a lot more. The easiest way to increase your rate of fire is by using a higher power battery, usually a LiPo. I got some of mine from HobbyKing for cheap, so you can just measure your battery space in your AEG and select a high quality battery from there, or any other place you know. With high output batteries, it's highly recommended to use a MOSFET. I don't know crap about those except that a BTC chimera or Extreme-Fire Cheetah-2N will do fine, but those are computerized and expensive. if your FPS is way above or below your stated goal of 375 with 0,20 bb's, pop in a SP110.
  17. today I ordered a JG MAC-10 with some extra mags. I've been looking into upgrading this baby from the start, but I've noticed aftermarket parts are quite scarce, especially here in Europe. The JG MAC-10 is, as far as I know, a 100% compatible clone from Tokyo Marui. What I would want to know is if it's 100% compatible with TM MP7 parts like springs, spring guides, pistons, bushings, buckings, that sort of thing. I'm planning on making this thing a beastie for CQB using LiPo's, either 7,4 low discharge or small 11,1s, depending on wether I have space in there for a mosfet. Maximum accuracy, durability and increased FPS (360 FPS / 1,2J absolute max) are my goals. edit: after a whole lot of googling and searching airsoft webshops, I've found the answer. they are compatible.
  18. you could get a barrel lockdown kit from HunterSeeker5's armory.
  19. never glued my shims but used Lithium grease to make things stick a little. I've already decided to stick with my trusty JG Torque motor, and perhaps later swap it for a SHS torque motor I have lying around. The two things im not sure about yet are the DSG itself, the 14:1 or the 10:1 and wether I should use a spring guide spacer or just wham in a M170. According to the siegetek PDF I should get close to 360 FPS with a M130 spring with a spacer, or a M180 without spacer. As to Lonex pistons, I always use those, even if they are way stronger than they need to be (360 FPS with 0,20 grams field limits).
  20. 4x zoom is enough for airsoft. you can probably buy another set of mount rings for a few bucks at dealextreme
  21. I meant to use either a a1 or a 10,44 dsg set, not both. Glueing the piston head screw is something I've seen in several lists. If the head loosens from the piston I'd have a problem. glueing shims to the gears isnt recommended ? I havent ever done it yet but I have seen it mentioned several times and I find it a hassle to keep a close eye on my shims.
  22. I have some other motors lying around, a SHS high torque I believe. The added cost of getting a Lonex A1 might make it more interesting to get 10,44:1 gears instead.
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