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MP5User

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Everything posted by MP5User

  1. No, it's a Detonator slide. But that's also part of the problem, having someone get the engraving wrong on a $225 slide would probably kill me. The reason I'm straying from laser engraving is because most of the examples I've seen are not as intricate as I think it needs to be, they do better with larger designs. This is 14pt font, and it doesn't look like vector engraving can be that precise with the machinery that most places have.
  2. I've got something I'd like to add to my M&P, but I need a way to do it. For those of you that (most likely) don't know, I've been working with Kens Props, a 3D CAD designer, to produce an RMR mount and raised sight set for the Marui M&P9. The mount is done, and the raised sights that go in conjunction with it are based on the M&P CORE model. Naturally, replicating the CORE would be pretty cool, so I went ahead and found similar fonts for the additional lettering on the slide. I printed out the "Pro Series" on paper just to place, but I need a better idea to attach. I figure there are a few ways, but I'm open to any suggestions on the best route. -printing on clear decals, cutting and applying -waterslide -dry transfer (this looks like the best, cleanest bet, but I'm not sure I can do it) -laser engraving (I'd rather not have someone do this on a Detonator slide... Any other options? I'd love to hear some ideas. I've only done the Pro Series, but I may do the CORE emblem too, although it does intercept the current engravings. Some pictures for reference. The actual CORE pistol, my rough setup, and the RMR mount. (All CAD render credits to Kens Props)
  3. Ultra Black RTV has always worked well for me. While it is supposedly oil resistant as stated for which oils I'm not sure. I use dry propane and have never had any leak issues due to weather or storage. The only issues I have is user error when I don't applu enough for a solid seal. The o-rings are circular, just stretched over the square basepad.
  4. You are correct. EAC design requires the front shroud and baseplate to be removed as one, L-shaped piece with the large bottom pin being removed. Once that's off, the front and rear roll pins (one under the shroud) punch out to remove the top block and seal. Really a bad design. Not so much with disassembly/reassembly but more with overall seal, the things leak at the main seal similar to KA. I may RTV them as I see fit but at the moment it's not worth the hassle.
  5. The Gen1 general internal structure is the same as the Gen2, solid block with dual reservoirs going down into the shell. I've yet to own a Gen2 so I don't know how they compare. I may beg to differ, these are built pretty poorly.... I have one KA mag (that I can confirm as KA), and build quality is about the same level, not impressed. Considering EAC doesn't mean anything on brands as it's Ehobby's custom products, me not finding a direct OEM means I have no idea who actually made them. The reservoir of this design is still very heavy,they don't disassemble the same as KA/WA. There is no bottom "plug" with this model, the reservoir (of course it's a metal alloy, what else could it be) is one piece, with the front feed tube shroud being connected to the thick, faux baseplate.
  6. Piston heads are only really beneficial in certain systems that are known to have terrible ones, but generally there are more important factors. The smaller size and gas reservoir of the sing stack .45 mag means that it is more affected by temperature and what's known as the cooldown effect. These magazines have significantly lower efficiency than double stack magazines (like the G23), even in warm temperatures. This is the main downfall of the 1911 platform, based on design you can't expect the same efficiency as a double stack G23.
  7. KA Magazine: 570g GHK Gen1: 476g The KA is definitely not aluminum, or it's a heavy alloy at least. GHK shell is stamped steel (I believe), with the core tubes being aluminum and the upper core I'm not sure. The GHK weight is in the upper third of the magazine, which tends to feel better than swinging the heavier KA mag around. I didn't really think about valves protruding, but I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. /Edit I think the magazine I measured may not be KA, they don't look the same. Baseplates are thick and connected to the shroud around the feed spring. Can't find any magazines online matching a handful of the ones I have, except for one link from EHA for their EAC magazine for the WA platform.
  8. I count it as a learning experience. I get to learn the ways of the magna magazines, and end up with a handful of functioning magazines (most happened to be the Gen1 GHK, and they actually work well), so it's not like I lost money.
  9. I'm not going to bother buying any G&P or anything else for that matter, these were just for fun I'll be buying only G5 magazines once I decide how many I want.
  10. I got a handful of KAs, at $5 a piece I figured why not. Now I understand why they aren't popular, the roll pin design sucks. I haven't gassed them yet but I'll RTV before I do to see if they work. I've spent the last couple hours servicing some GHK Gen1 mags, which are much easier to work on... The valve lock was easy to remove and the overall design is just so much better than the KA.
  11. I plan on using only G5 mags for serious use, but I found some G&P and KA at a flea market (go figure) for close to nothing, so if I have them I may as well try. I suppose it would be more of a "just to see if it'll work well because I can" thing. Considering I don't own any other GBBRs on the magna system I guess I'll go ahead and disable the locks, I'd rather not have them wear down the bottom of the carrier if they don't have to.
  12. I may try the GHK 1J nozzle, since that's the basic purpose. I went forth and bought one off another forum member. I'm also ending up with some various branded Magna magazines that I'll see how well they work in the G5.
  13. You shouldn't have a problem from any major, reputable retailer... My last AEG purchase was via Guges and WGC with a trademark heavy rifle, no issues.
  14. Other people have indeed confirmed the AEG compatibility. I haven't really considered using a different bore size, but an NPAS would be just as easy without having to use a regular AEG barrel.
  15. I know there's a thread somewhat related to the G5, but I figured I'd start my own as I have some other questions. I haven't owned a GBBR in a little while and the G5 has grabbed my interest a bit. I'm not too educated with the platform other than the basics, so any and all information would be greatly appreciated. What I do know (confirm or deny, by all means): -G5 magazines are among the best the Magna system has to offer. -First-gen models had issues with bodies cracking from heavy force from the bolt. -Lightweight What I'm worried about/would like to know: -OOTB FPS (w/ .2g and .28g on propane if possible). Just want to know if I need a velocity reducer in there for CQB. (I watched the RATech video showing 355ish on GG and .2g, then 375ish, same conditions, with the RATech 6.01. If this is the case, are NPAS/velocity reducers the same as would be used in WA/Magna bolts? -Can any AEG buffer tube be used with the M4 stock adapter? -What's the hop cut on the barrel, and hop rubber? Compatibility with AEG rubbers? I don't think so, but the window and rubber look fairly similar. -I vaguely remember some form of speed rubber for the back of the bolt, does these exist/is there a noticable effect if so? -Is the FCG a standard GHK Magna FCG, or is it specific to the G5? (I know the bolt is shared with the PDW) -Any experience with any of the RATech parts (Maple Leaf rubber, 6.01 barrel, steel bolt, etc?) -Overall impressions, and any other "necessary" parts. Any information is greatly appreciated. I've owned WE CB/OB, LM4, but nothing on the Magna system before.
  16. The EVO-II barrel/hop set for KSC gave me surprisingly accurate results, comparable to Marui abilities. Stark can use the AST T-Key with conventional VSR hop rubbers, which gives you more possibilities than KSC.
  17. Depends what you want. Stark, while being partially TM-spec is very proprietary at the same time... No aftermarket slides especially. Generally used stock until they break, then OEM is your only option for most parts. KSC is a good stock performer, and there are a handful of aftermarket parts if you dig deep enough. Consider KJW... Slide options, more TM-spec than Stark, and solid performance as well.
  18. I'll pass, thank you though. Looking for the URX3, the VFC is a bit too close to the LT9 I have currently.
  19. As the title states, looking for a few things... -T1 repro: ACM is fine... must be black, unpainted, on a QD high mount. Trademarks highly preferred, I'd take a blank one for less. Unless yours isn't ACM, don't expect retail. -RMR: ACM RMR, side adjusting brightness model, trademarks required. Black, unpainted. Doesn't need mount, but needs screws. -KAC URX 3.1 (10.75"): The Z-Shot or Iron Airsoft are fine. Black, unpainted is required. I'd also look at other rails in the same length (10-12"), preferably modular. Midwest SSK 10.5 repro, same applies. PayPal ready for any items, please have pictures in hand. Cash, or you can have my Larue 9" rail thats being removed if you want.
  20. http://airsoft.tiger111hk.com/images/productimg/SSA/KJW-MAG-P1.4-1.jpg http://galron.free.fr/200406181724.jpg There were original plastic slide P14s as well. Hopefully the links work, gun and magazine. There was one on the facebook classifieds about a week ago, plastic version, but that's the only one I've seen in a long time.
  21. Those are all beautiful guns, but let's not forget about the price... Those steel Raptors, and the V10 are all upwards of 2k, not even going to consider the 2011s from a price perspective.
  22. Results on most TM handguns seem to have rather positive results, but usually those aren't pushing 1J all the time. I'm not sure what effect (if any) it may have, but have you tried it in a scenario without R-hop? I can't imagine it would change too much, but who knows.
  23. Marui/Detonator 10-8 M&P9 Added SAI marked wood grips to the MK25, and moved to an X300 Ultra.
  24. I could replicate that critical issue with my TMs or KJWs. It comes down to willingness to handle the thing properly. If you see that as a hazard that has the potential of discharging, use striker fire pistols. I don't think WE finish is durable at all. If you like the grey color slides, then it looks fine, but the color wears and scratches far easier than even KJW's thick shiny paint. Acetone won't leave noticable issues on anything if it's only in contact for a short period of time. The results you describe would be the same if the OP were to accidently drop acetone on WE or KJW, whichever one he chooses.
  25. WE is not an anodized finish... The hammer issues you talk about are the same with all the P226 models.. They may be exaggerated if your model had slightly incorrect tolerances though. If you're going to engage the hammer to single action manually, do it right and lock it.. Releasing it will have the same effect as pulling the trigger, but maybe with a light strike.
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