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Everything posted by MP5User

  1. WE CO2 magazines are always problematic. They often leak, and are not made to the quality I would expect to see from them. Using CO2, a harsher, more powerful gas, expect additional wear when there doesnt have to be. Also, if you do the math, CO2 is more expensive to use by a somewhat large margin. My suggestion, along with many is propane. Incredibly cheap and readily available without the need to go to an airsoft-specific store. You do not, however need to use silicone oil in the propane can/adapter. Additional lubricant where it isn't necessary nor healthy. I'll suggest the Airsoft Innovations propane adapter to you as well. Cost effective, and very functional. The gun should be torn down and maintained similar to a real firearm after use, etc, regardless of the propellant used. If you plan on using gas magazines, V2 magazines are an improved design and are less prone to leak than the V1.
  2. I'll also chime in that the slide and frame MBKs, should you decide to get one, are not cross compatible between the E2 and the 226R. (TM doesn't make a stock 226 w/o rail, MBK only). KJWs are build very solid, but their magazines are definitely a downfall. The switch to their own pin design over TM/WE 2 piece design creates more room for leaks. Some, like myself, also find the KJW finish unsatisfying. With all KJW paint I find it thick, glossy, and easily removed.
  3. Silicone as a whole is unhealthy. He's saying by adding one known degrading substance with another, means your magazines will degrade even faster.
  4. I have to say, you're pretty good at making me spend my money lol.. I'll shoot you a PM regarding some of those.
  5. bumping this again. Adding the following to the list. -WE/HK M&P9 (Must have black frame) -Icarus XDM Slide -Inforce APL/repro -SF X300/X300U repro -WE XDM Magazines -KSC G17 -AR wrench (Must have free float tool/part) Removing the motor grip from the list, one has been purchased.
  6. MAPP is (somewhat) popular for cold weather environments where the extra PSI can help make up for the temp difference.
  7. Looking for information anyone has on the compatibility of slides (aftermarket) for the KJ and WE G23 and G19, respectively. Specifically whether or not the Guarder slides for KJW will fit on the WE... From what I've heard they will not without modification, but I'm curious as to how extensive any mods would be, if anyone knows.
  8. No... Even with the NPAS 100% open, the FPS will still be lower than the stock valve. Even with the modded nozzle, still lower. FCG: Fire control group. Trigger housing, all of those parts. Internally, you can do barrel and bucking upgrades... RATech, AST, etc. Buffer, spring, buffer tube, can all be replaced with RS items, as can other components such as charging handles, with modification. Also, the New Age steel hopup chamber has just been released and is available at AST. Reported to do well with both stock nozzles and RATech nozzles.
  9. For the SIGs, the KJW BBU is secured by and additional screw near the slide stop area. Other than the front sight I'm pretty sure most everything is compatible, although magazines across the board with TM WE and KJW seem to work here and there, others not.
  10. Tokyo Marui is always the right direction... Although plastic they can shoot .30g with ease. It may not be over 300FPS, but that really isn't important. Also the most aftermarket friendly of any option. KWA pistols... Outside the G-series they really arent too upgradable. They do have some options but for the most part they would be used stock or close to it. For the same price as a KWA, you can afford most TMs. If you look on the used market TMs with metal slides/ MBKs can be found for the ~$200 mark.
  11. Just run it stock until something breaks. Then you can just buy a new OB kit and have spare parts lying around. $270, free ship via Evike.
  12. Tokyo Marui HGHU for spring pistols. But seeing as those are not readily available in the US, the KWC "HPA" pistol like is pretty decent.
  13. People have done it the same way as STR stocks. You can use a brick lipo by dremeling the buffer tube and the insides of the stock. Not sure in NiMh, as the ones meant for batteries are the EMOD.
  14. still looking.... willing to make a cash sale as well.
  15. Pneumatic G&Gs are notorious for their front GBs breaking off. I don't know what shells fit in a G&G EBBR body, but I know the EBB shell cannot fit in any other lower. You would need a new cylinder as well to get rid of the ported one.
  16. Buffers, similar to what you would use to short stroke, but you don't have to do it that much. You can buy/make them from the local Home Depot/ Ace.
  17. Looking for the following. While I can, and will outright purchase, my preference is to trade solely on the basis I have a lot of things I need to move to make room for new items. Motor grip: The Madbull Umbrella Corp 23, PTS MOE, or PTS MIAD are the top preferences, but I would consider something new. Would prefer black, but FDE is a possibility. T-1: Must be black, trademark preferred. Needs to be on a high/QD riser. Unless name brand, I will not pay retail for an ACM unit. Flash hider: Would prefer the G&P or Matrix VLTOR style, or PTS BattleComp, but again, will consider other options outside the standard birdcage. Must be CCW. GBB: Eh, maybe something new? KSC G17 or KJW/WE P229 preferred... Willing to offer a WE G19 package. For trade, I have a couple random things, including an MFT Utility Stock (looking to trade or sell..), magazines, aforementioned G19, Comp M2 trademarked replica, and other small things to even out a deal if necessary. Please shoot me a PM if you have something you think I'd be interested in. Please have a picture on hand (username/date preferred), as it saves us both time.
  18. The spray is so thin it really doesnt do anything other than be there and run all over the place. While some popular options exist, probably the most popular is variations of shock oil. 20-25wt is usually the place to be. White lithium grease is commonly used on slide rails as well. I second the motion to really clean out the GBB. Silicone seeps in to every space, and cleaning it all out and reapplying intelligently can really help.
  19. In TM (and most GBBs in general) I use nothing short of a .28g, usually a .3g. You can definitely use a .25g if you really choose to. TM, or Tokyo Marui, wins the efficiency and accuracy game, hands down. Considered the gold standard of airsoft GBBs, they range from $150-$180 w/o shipping. Some "downsides" people see, is their bodies/slides are made from plastic, lighter and more efficient. They also werent really designed to be used with the higher pressure gases we use. If, for example, you bought a TM Glock 17, you would have to buy a metal slide for it to be "realistic". As far as weight, most GBBs will weigh in similar to the unloaded weight of the corresponding firearm, but generally a tad lighter. If you want a 1911, the TM Gov't A1 or the MEU are the popular 5" options. They also offer anything from the Desert Warrior to the Detonics .45. The STI/2011 (hi-capa) is more of a competition based platform, if that suits what youre looking for. Do you have a specific handgun you wanted the airsoft version to model? The various body kits and parts make replication very similar.
  20. Skill is the ultimate factor, but the handgun itself is key. 1911s in general are, by design, less equipped for airsoft due to small gas resevoirs and such. Stock, or upgraded, the budget is very different. Most "highly upgraded" GBBs touch or exceed the cost of the firearm counterpart. 1" groups <AT> 30ft isnt impossible, but don't expect a stock WE to take you there. TM has the best option as far as superior hopup and ability to travel over any other GBB brand. As a lead shooter you know that quality ammunition is a requirement, and airsoft is no different, quality and weight are very important. Wind will affect a small plastic pellet more than what youre used to. What Im getting at is the science of an airsoft BB is different than a bullet. There's hopup to be accounted for. If you set it to shoot accurately at 30ft, it wont be the same when you try to touch targets at 75ft. I wont give you a definite number as far as groupings of a quality GBB as it depends so much on the shooter and the weapon, but very tight groupings are certainly possible.
  21. Have you actually tried bracing the magazine, or anything else yet before running to the tech? Probably worthwhile. Piston heads, NineBall, PDI, etc. Available overseas mostly.
  22. they will both work in a WE 1911. Using an 80* rubber in a 300 FPS GBB might not yield great results, but REAPs for GBB is pretty universal.
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