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TammyofJam

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Posts posted by TammyofJam


  1. Yes...meant 1000mah.

     

    We use the 1400mah all the time and some people even use the 2000mah and lose position one on the stock.

    Thanks for your help, the 1400 MAH seems like the best option. Can you tell me a bit about a battery bag/holder that you attach to the outside of your stock? I don't really want to spend a lot of money on a lipo and charger, (considering I haven't even played the sport yet because my gun broke so many times) so if it's not hard to install I think I'll go with that and get the battery and charger you recommend for Christmas or something like that.

    Edit: Also, would I have to install a mosfet before I use it? I'm thinking I don't need one because it's a lower volt LiPo, but I just want to be sure.


  2. A couple weeks ago I bought a Lonex M4 CQB edition with a crane stock. The gun is great but my battery unfortunately doesn't fit. I've heard about battery bags, where you keep the battery on the side of the stock, and I'd like to learn how you modify your stock to allow the wire to go though. If I can't do this easily (and without messing up the stock) I think I will buy a battery that fits in my buffertube. I did some research and it seems like I should get a 7.4 volt lipo battery, because lipos are more space efficient then Ni mh batteries, but I could be wrong. I was thinking about this charger: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/store/u...?idProduct=7028 and this battery, http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__345...RSOFT_Pack.html . Any help would be appreciated.


  3. Can you elaborate on what you mean by the gun is dying? Have you checked the fuse before you sent these guns back to Evike? Maybe a motor connector came loose. There's a lot of possibilities to explore.

    The gun just won't shoot, near the end of the first mag, it started to have 2 - 3 second delays from when I pulled the trigger to when it actually fired, I thought the battery was running out, but when I went to recharge it, my smart charger said it was full in about 20 minutes, which means the battery was almost full, and when I put the battery in it didn't fire at all, no sound or anything. I tried with 2 different batteries and it still didn't work. I don't want to disassemble the gun, because that would void the warranty, so I'm just going to send it back to Evike.


  4. I wonder, are you possibly doing something wrong? Like, are you using cheap BBs with your gun? Are you doing long continuous fire with your gun that something burns out? Are you charging your battery properly? Are you running the gun until the battery completely dies in the middle of firing?

    I'm using .25 gram Elite Force bbs, I have a 9.6 volt battery, I charge with a smart charger, I cleaned the barrel, and I don't use full auto much, and if I do, it's only for around 2 or 3 seconds, nothing that should break the gun. I charge my battery before it goes completely dead too, infact the guns all broke before I needed to recharge my battery. I'm fairly certain it's not my fault, because when I sent the gun into Evike they couldn't figure out what's wrong with it, so they sent me a new one. I think maybe the entire of batch of King Arms M4's that they sent to Evike was defective, because the chances of me getting 3 lemons is certainly small.


  5. Hello, I am back with another request for help, because unfortunately, my gun broke, 3 :censored2: times. Back near July 4th, (just after when I got out of school) I order an airsoft gun, the King Arms M4, because you guys suggested I get it. I received it about a week later, and when I go to shoot it, it shoots one bullet and stops. I send it back to Evike, and three weeks later they send me a new gun. At this point my summer is half over, and I was extremely excited to finally get a new airsoft gun, but to my dismay it doesn't :censored2: fire again. We send it back, and about a week later I receive another King Arms M4, and it works for around 500 shots or so, and then it breaks again. When I called Evike, they offered to send a different M4 as a replacement, and I told them I would think about which one I want to get, and call them back.

     

    I was thinking of a Lonex M4, I've heard good things about those, but I heard that the ones Evike sells doesn't have as good of a motor as the one on Clandestine. Is it still worth the purchase? And how reliable is it? Thanks.


  6. Hello, my friend has an old and cheap M14 rifle, and he thinks he needs an upgrade.

     

    Budget: 200 dollars for the gun itself.

     

    Model Preference: He either wants an M4 or a G36, although he'd go for another model if it's much better. The only catch though is that he doesn't want the same gun as me, I have a King Arms Full Metal M4, (doesn't want to be a "copy cat").

     

    Where we play: We usually play in our backyards, but me and him are going to try to start playing at a real airsoft field that's near our house. The FPS limit there is 360 FPS using .25 bbs or up to 400 using .20′s. If the gun shoots too hot for that, we could probably figure out how to change out the spring, but we'd strongly prefer not to.

     

    Role: He's not really sure what he want's to play, so a gun that's versatile.

     

    Tech Skills: We don't currently know much about modifying guns, so he needs something good out of the box, but just in case he wants to modify it in the future, he does need to be able to upgrade it a bit.

     

    Thanks in advance, last time you were helpful and I'm hoping you are just as helpful this time.


  7. Just to add a bit regarding KA.

    Full metal rifles have metal hop up units and working bolt catch. Gearbox internalls are the same for all of them. I personally own a nylon fibre version with a plastic hop up and non-working bolt catch and it's working just fine on cheap 11.1v 15c <AT> 21rps. External quality is simply unmatched by any other aeg in this price range (it's on par with stuff like vfc and g&p).

    However... this gun will get outperformed on range, accuracy and power by a a lot of other stock guns. I am talking from what I've seen on my field. A crap A&K m4 cqb with 30k rounds trough it is more accurate and has noticable more range. Same goes for cyma ak-47 cm-042a. Maybe it's just mine gun that's acting up, but that's my experience so far. KA gearboxes come with a non-ported cylinder which is an overkill for a 363mm m4 barrel. Replacing it with a ported one for 10$ will most likely solve power (and range with it) issues.

     

    I think despite all this, it is still the gun to buy, externals are just too good to overlook and you can always upgrade internalls for cheap money.

    That sounds good, I don't need to have a gun that shoots like a laser for backyard play, and I MIGHT upgrade in a year or two once I get into the sport more. I decided to purchase the gun, cost me 156$ because of a sale on Evike, so it was within my budget, (well only 6$ off). Thanks everyone who helped me, I really appreciate it, and I will be sure to come back to this site again if I need more help or info.


  8. Turn your auto-correct on -___-

     

    Plastic vs metal, well...it's really complex....

    Structural Engineering, it's a whole field on itself.

     

    But avoid two things, cheap metal (pot metal) or cheap plastic (Toy plastic)

     

    Metal externals feel nice and proper, on top of the fact that King Arms doesn't use :pain: metal like JG on their external.

    Alright. I think I'll get the metal one, and sorry ghis phone doesnt have auto correct, its an old baseline android.


  9. I don't really know who to trust. It seems sense that King Arms would deliver less value because of the Colt trademark, but I'm not really sure. Is there any way we could compare a KA and a G&G directly?

    Edit: And just to make it clear, EDI, you're reccomending I get of these, right? http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=7783 Visually, I like this one more, because it's black as opposed to tan, but what really matters is on the inside, and I can't really tell which has the better gearbox and internals and such.


  10. I think they are way out of your initial price range. ;) They're nice guns, but you're paying extra for the Colt trademarks, so unless you're willing to spend $300-$400 there are better choices.

     

    The difference between the JG and G&G is that the G&G body is made out of metal as opposed to plastic. Here's the same gun, but with a rail; again, the difference is that everything is metal vs plastic. One caveat is that the G&Gs don't come with a battery, so you should take that into account when figuring out how much you are going to spend.

    If I bought the cheaper G&G (the one without the rail system), and I decided I wanted to add a rail, could I do that, and if I could, how much would it cost? It looks like I could snap off the handle and replace it, but I'm not really sure. Thanks.


  11. One big thing is that the SRC carries the battery in the stock as opposed to the JG, which carries it in the handguard. This means the SRC will have better weight balance and not be as front heavy as the JG. Internally, they are pretty comparable, except the SRC has a better motor, but that's one of the first things that gets changed out when you upgrade, so it might not matter that much. Externally, the fit and finish on the SRC is just a bit nicer, and it includes rail covers. It's the little things that add up to the $30 price difference.

     

    While we're on the subject, notice how the JG handguard is significantly larger than the SRC's? Airsoft guns have to carry their batteries somewhere, and traditionally, this has been in the stock. On a fixed stock rifle, this isn't a problem because there's usually lots of room inside the stock for a battery. On sliding stock guns, this is a little trickier, since you have to account for moving wires and the simple fact that most adjustable stocks just don't have any room to stick a battery into. In this case, you either have to use a SOPMOD style stock (the bulgy looking things on the side is where the battery goes), or you have to put the battery up in the handguard. Putting the battery up in the handguard, however, means you have to make it kinda bulgy to accommodate a battery, hence the very different ascetic of the two guns.

    Alright, it seems like I'm not going to buy the JG, I think the battery in the handle would be annoying, and I looked at a lot of reviews and they complained about that. But, my Dad said I might be able to splurge, so if you could tell me the pros and cons of the more expensive one you listed (the tan one), compared to the SRC, I would appreciate that greatly. And also, EDI recommended a King Arms, what do you think of those? Thanks.


  12. Go check out the upgrade/modification section of the forum.

     

    On the top there's a thread pinned with all the modifications/tweaks that you need to know.

     

    There are also quite a few very reputable people on this forum who can do it.

    You can purchase a rifle and have it shipped directly to them to save shipping cost.

    I looked at a couple of those modifications in that thread you were talking about, but they seem pretty complicated and I honestly would have no idea which one to even do. I think it'd be best if I get one that's pretty good out of the box, because I don't think I'll tweak it, at least not for a while.


  13. See, that helps us narrow down things tremendously. Keep in mind that ASGI coupons codes knock 20% off the price, so you could pick something a bit further up the scale and still be in your price range.

     

    Keeping your feature set but adding a rail, you could move up to the SRC RIS or the JG S-System M4and still be in your price range. Both of these will give you a bit more velocity than the JG, but arn't so hot that they make back yard play not fun.

     

    If you're willing to stretch your budget a bit, you could get the G&G GC16 if you're ok with the color. The plus it the metal receivers, which tend to be more durable than the polymer ones.

     

    Or, you could stay with your original pick, which is a perfectly fine gun for the price.

     

    ETA: What alberty said about going with the "enhanced" JGs.

    Alright, I think I'll either buy the SRC M4 RIS AEG, or the JG M4 S-System Enhanced, but I can't really tell the difference between the two. The SRC is obviously much more expensive, but I can't really see why, could you point out the differences to me? Thanks to both of you.


  14. First of all, don't rely on customer reviews from these retailer websites. The people who actually write reviews on these retailers usually:

    - don't really know much about airsoft or airsoft tech work

    - don't know how to write a proper review

    - aren't able to compare it to other products

    - and usually the retailers will tend to approve the more positive reviews as opposed to negative ones

     

    Specs are good to know, of course keep in mind what each means and how it affects performance, reliability, and quality.

     

    Current-generation JG M4s are okay, but I think you may want to see if ASGI has the "Enchanced" versions--I think they have slightly better gearbox internals if I've not mistaken.

     

    JG M4s are good with internal quality and are compatible with almost all aftermarket M4 parts and magazines, but I don't specifically recommend an M4A1 model unless you really like the look of the M4A1 configuration. I say that because the M4A1 configured AEG means the battery wiring is stored in the handguard. That limits the size of the batteries you can use in there, sometimes it's a hassle to get your battery and wiring tucked in neatly in there, and it can make it difficult to work with installing an aftermarket rail system because of the wiring configuration.

     

    For M4s, I usually recommend something that is wired to the rear like a crane stock or fixed M16-style stock because that frees up your front assembly setup.

    At ASGI, there is a pull down menu which has "Shop by popular styles", and when I mouse over that I get a lot of different choices. I was looking in M4-A1, but should I be looking instead in the M4 others, M4 RIS, M4 CQB, M16, or M16 RIS/DMR?


  15. If you'd like some kind of M4/M16 variation, you can look at JG, G&G, King Arms, and SRC in that price range for some brands that are reputable for quality/price ratio and upgradable/repairable both internally and externally. But, I do not recommend G&G Blowback M4s due to proprietary parts and extra work because of a totally-cosmetic feature.

     

    If you'd like some kind of AK variation, look for something by CYMA or DBoys. They're the top choice for a good mix of quality and price and also upgradable internally. You can't customize the externals as much easily but they're very sturdy, full metal exteriors when you get the higher-end models. People like myself also prefer the AK platform because of the Version 3 type gearbox as opposed to the Version 2 type gearbox in the M4s. It's almost like having an M4 vs AK discussion in airsoft, except that the significant differences are mostly cosmetic when it comes to airsoft.

     

    If you don't want an M4 or AK, tell us what you're more interested in.

     

    I'm interested in a M4, I like the look of them, and would prefer them, but as I said, if there is any other guns that are substantially better I would buy those instead. AKs also look good, but I slightly prefer the M4s, although it isn't much of a deal. I googled what you and Chibajoe said, and they all look like great guns, but I can't really decide between them because I am new to airsoft and can't really tell the difference between all those guns, if you could link maybe 2 or 3 options that would help me a lot more then listing a couple brands. Thanks.

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