Jump to content

to add your 300x250 banner, pay ad zone 5
Airsoft Atlanta is your source for quality airsoft guns and rifle parts
to add your Text Link here, pay ad zone 3

AirsoftAtlanta.com AirsoftNMore.com Airsplat.com AirsoftRC.com
Vote for us to add your 180x30 banner here, pay ad zone 2

If you appreciate this website, please ASF Donation or Check Out the ASF Store. If you can not help us financially,
then at least help us by telling a friend: Share us on your favorite social networking website Bookmark and Share


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About PCEN713

  • Rank
    ASF Citizen

Profile Information

  • Gender
  1. So… JG decided to cut corners and thinnen the body/make it smaller in comparison to TM’s G3? The only other brand that makes a G3 is Classic Army. It seems as if CA’s G3 is just as hard to find as TM’s G3. Anyways, is the G3’s externals/internals on par, subpar, or better than the standard TM’s AR line?
  2. Would you recommend the TM G3 over the JG clone? Is the build quality and performance any better?
  3. What about TM's G3 and Type 89? Are they any good?
  4. Just wondering, which TM models are actually worth the price? I've heard the AEGs are made of plastic and the internals aren't that best. What makes it priced over $300 though? Are they worth upgrading, or is there other alternatives that are more cost efficient or will yield a better build quality/performance? I'm specifically targeting TM's AR line.
  5. I’m not too sure if the rifle will be even close to accurate if I cowitness an open RDS on a riser to a LP front sight. The gun would be angled like a mortar… Yes, I might be able to turn the hopup down, but I think what SecondWind said might be more practical when using LP sights.
  6. This might sound like a stupid question, but how exactly do you align a RDS if you don’t have a front sight (I.e., installing a gas block), or if you sights are low profile sights (I.e., the FN FAL, M14, G3, etc)?
  7. The M4 was a rental gun. It was a well abused CM. I never gotten a chance to field with my M16 yet, but since they are similar, I assume that whatever goes for the M4 would go for the M16. As for the full mask, I will try to switch to a 2 piece (goggles + mesh lower) ASAP. I'm not a fan of T1s or any other mini RDS since IMO, my ADS time is slower. The M16 has a fixed RDS and a magpul MOE handguard, so no MBUS for me :/ I would guess a standard tubular RDS w/ riser would probably be closer to a T1 w/ riser.
  8. The arena that I go to isn't too large, nor is it considered "puny" either. I've realized that the engagement distance is approx. 75-100 feet, so I assume that falls into the "CQB" category. At the arena, I've seen people use iron sights all the way to sniper scopes. I use the standard iron sights which is pretty hard to use with a full face mask (going to swap that out with goggles and mesh lower half soon). I am the type of guy who likes to stick with the "1 shot 1 kill" principle and find it disappointing that it takes me 10+ rounds just to land a headshot at that range with a M4, since most of the time people are hiding in buildings or behind cover. Since I'm not a rusher, I usually stay back and sort of "snipe" players shooting out of windows. What would suit me best as a CQB "sniper"? 1. Reflex RDS 2. Tubular RDS w/ riser 3. ACOG or other low power magnification scope 4. Full out sniper scope (3-9 x --mm) There was a specific guy who caught my attention since he was using a shotgun with a sniper scope attached to it and was retaining 1 kill per shot fired. I know that's not practical, but is there a way to make my shots pinpoint accurate? I use a M16, so the front sight is fixed (no intention of getting a gas block). I know I used the word "snipe" or "sniper" a lot of times... but just keep in mind that I'm not legitimately sniping. To put it in simpler terms, I'm "picking off" enemies.
  9. Bump. Also accepting G&G M14s <AT> ~$150-200
  10. Looking for a TM M14... my budget is roughly ±$250. Should be in working condition. Prefer the standard long barreled (not socom) wood stock version, but would accept painted or black/OD stocks. Also looking for KWA KM16BR compatible mags. Click here to see which brands are compatible to the KM4 series. PM me if you have any offers; we can take it from there.
  11. Just yesterday I decided to go to a nearby arena to field with both the EF M4 and a G&G CM. IMO, the EF felt nicer… I can’t really describe it. However, that’s just my personal opinion. We are all sized differently so we’re all going to come to different conclusions when it comes to comparing 2 guns. Note that the EF M4 has this ugly light gray receiver (so the handguard and the grip stand out A LOT) as well as being a tad lighter in weight than the CM. The reason I got to field with both was because they were rental guns. The CM’s grip/motor started to get really hot mid-game and the rifle eventually refused to fire. I had to give it to a tech and swap it out with a rental EF M4. However, I really can’t tell how many rounds the CM went through and how much abuse it had (being a rental gun). Another note: since I only used each gun for roughly 2 hours, I can’t say anything about the internals. Just my opinion on CM vs EF…
  12. Wrong section. You need to be an authorized seller in order to sell items on ASF. Read the rules here
  13. $200 might not even be enough for the base gun for a DMR build. You will only get what looks like a DMR (aka, long assault rifle). The performance will be on par with other AEGs in that price range unless you drop an extra $100-300 worth of upgrades into it.
  14. I'll take that back. There's always the argument between wide bores vs. tightbores, so I'm not going to go into that. Just keep in mind I'm not a tech that specializes in airsoft or anything! I apologize if I'm wrong...
  • Create New...