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Daishain

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Everything posted by Daishain

  1. Thank you for the suggestions, I'll add them in as soon as I'm satisfied with the wording I'm not entirely convinced that this will have that much of an impact, (again, beyond a certain point). Either your target is far enough away that your lead time is going to need to be generous anyways, and/or close enough that most variations in FPS translate to fractions of a second difference in flight time. Personally, I am of the opinion that one should go ahead and tune FPS to the high side of how you're using it, but I also think this is another case where you're only getting fringe benefits. I may be wrong on this point though. I happen to agree. I am however at this point more familiar with the tech, and the misconceptions about it, than the tactics. I will be joining a proper team in upcoming months and will hopefully be correcting that, but in the meantime... Thanks for the suggestions, it will help me flesh this out a bit. Just to be clear, you're saying that a R-hop mod (or any hopup mod for that matter) on its own is only one part of the puzzle, and that it can be outperformed by a stock hopup with proper work done elsewhere. Correct? That I'll certainly agree with, and add to the list.
  2. I haven’t been involved in this sport for a very long time, and have already run into a distressing number of people who follow poor advice. With that in mind, I’ve begun assembling a list I intend to post on multiple forums, with the hope of helping to dispel some of these rumors. This will be a continual work in progress. If I get something incorrect or something else can be added, please just let me know. Myth #1: “The higher the FPS of the gun, the better it is” Verdict: false In reality, beyond a certain point, FPS is among the least important attributes of your gun. In fact, blindly improving FPS can often have an adverse effect on your overall performance. Let’s keep it relatively simple. You want enough muzzle velocity to carry your projectile out to the point where your accuracy starts to break down while maintaining enough energy that your target can feel and/or hear it. Anything more than that is unnecessary, and is in many cases a liability. Having a gun that can fire a 0.20 gram projectile at 600 FPS does you no good if you can only reliably hit a target within 40 meters, especially if that high muzzle velocity gets you slapped with a 30 meter minimum engagement distance. For most stock AEGs, anything over 300 FPS (with 0.20g bbs) is enough. 400 FPS and up is going to be overkill in most cases unless you have modified the gun for accuracy. For context, Tokyo Marui guns are limited to 1 joule of energy at the muzzle, meaning that not a single one of them will fire at more than about 330 FPS unless modified. And yet they are among the most accurate and effective stock airsoft guns out there. Myth #2: “The tighter the barrel, the more accurate the gun will be” Verdict: false This one actually makes some sense, until you remember that these are not muskets, and have a significantly different mechanism. In reality, if all other factors are equal, a tighter barrel equals increased FPS, and reduced accuracy. Accuracy with these guns relies primarily on the consistency of the backspin applied by the hopup. After hopup spin is applied, the BB rolls along the top of the barrel, gaining both linear and rotational speed as it goes. Occasionally, even in a near perfectly smooth barrel, the bb will bounce off of an imperfection in the barrel surface. If this bounce causes it to hit another wall of the barrel, the hopup spin is slowed and/or shifted in direction slightly, decreasing consistency and therefore accuracy. A tight fit increases the odds of this happening. This particularly common myth has resulted in a large number of ultra tightbore barrels being made, some of which are actually smaller than some of the larger diameter BBs. It has also resulted in a large number of airsoft manufacturers outright lying to the public about the diameter of their barrels, instead making them to whatever they consider the ideal specs. To make things even more complex, BBs come in a wide range of sizes. When it comes to diameter, the “ideal” difference between the BB and barrel diameters appears to be 0.08 millimeters, with diminishing returns on FPS and accuracy as you deviate from this point. This has to my knowledge never been conclusively proven, it is however no coincidence that while the most common barrel diameters are 6.08, 6.05, 6.03, and 6.01, the most common BB sizes are 6.00, 5.97, 5.95, and 5.93. People may or may not be surprised to learn that the majority of people using 6.01 barrels for accuracy end up unwittingly selecting the smallest BB size as well, maintaining the same nominal spacing as someone who is using the default Tokyo Marui 6.08 barrel with the more traditional 6.00 BBs Ok, you might tell yourself, so long as I also use the smallest bb sizes, the really tight barrel should work just fine, right? Well, yes and no. In most cases it will work out fine, but the catch is that as you go down in bb size, imperfections in how they are made start to have a larger impact. Also, we aren’t just talking about a linear dimension, but an area. There is a 0.0088 square millimeter difference between the gap left by the largest and smallest 0.08 barrel to bb pairings, about a 1.2% loss in spacing. Small, but not entirely insignificant. Even if they keep the same BB size, most users do indeed see a major improvement in accuracy when switching to tightbore barrels. But this has less to do with the diameter, and is more dependent on the fact that the better aftermarket barrels often have a notably better internal surface than their stock counterparts, which is a much more important factor. Myth#3: “A longer barrel gives you more accuracy” Verdict: its complicated In reality, for fixed compression systems like AEGs and springers (gas guns play by their own rules), the relationship between barrel length and accuracy is on something of an inverted exponential curve. As barrel length increases from near zero, both accuracy and fps will begin increasing at a fast rate, as you keep going however, the rate of this increase will start slowing down, and then continue to give diminishing returns until the peak of the curve, after which accuracy will actually start to slowly decrease. Anecdotal evidence suggests that you start to get into the area of diminishing returns at around 300 mm, and that the peak of the curve is somewhere around 450 mm. This is not to say that someone with a 510mm inner barrel is badly killing their accuracy, but they won’t have gained much at all by comparison to the standard 363 mm. (Note: this only remains true if the compression system is adjusted to match each new barrel length, and your barrel’s internal surface is at least relatively smooth and consistent. Failure to address either area will cause other problems) Myth #4: “11.1 volt lipos will quickly destroy any stock gun” Verdict: mostly false There are a couple of crappy walmart guns that will likely self destruct if attached to such a powerful battery, but most airsoft players should not be concerned with those. In regards to everything else, an 11.1 volt lipo puts a lot of stress on your system, and will cause damage over time if the system is not ready. But it is a gradual process, its not as if you’re sticking a small bomb in there. Myth #5: “X gun is Lipo ready!” Verdict: possibly technically true, but quite misleading Usually used by sellers of airsoft guns, the truth of this depends on how you define Lipo ready. Most guns should able to handle a 7.4 volt lipo without modification, and nearly all of the rest can do so after basic gearbox tuning. However, there is no stock gun on the market that is truly ready for an 11.1 volt Lipo. Some may or may not be prepared to deal with the increased mechanical stress, but these are still vulnerable to electrical problems until a mosfet is installed. Given how cheap and easy it would be for a manufacturer to include a simple and reliable mosfet, that last paragraph still being true is quite regrettable. Myth #6: “oil in your green gas/propane will properly lube your gas pistol/rifle.” Verdict: mostly false, and more of a liability than help The inclusion of oil in our pressurized gas is based on my understanding a holdover from an older style of gas system, where a number of valves could not otherwise be reached for oiling. In reality, having oil in the gas system gets it to only a handful of the places where it is needed, and smears quite a bit across the hop up, bbs, and inner barrel, where it interferes with accuracy. The better response would be to treat it much like a real gun. Keep your gas “dry”, then clean and oil the gun manually from as often or sparingly as your usage calls for. Note: oiled gas does have its place when it comes to treating the seals in magazines and/or for storing said magazines for a long period of time. But it is still best to vent the oil laden gas prior to using it in a gun. Myth #7: “C rating is a measurement of battery output.” Verdict: misleading C rating in and of itself is nothing more than a ratio, and means jack all by itself. What matters when it comes to how your battery will perform lies in terms of maximum amperage output. To get constant amperage output, multiply the C rating by its storage capacity in Amp hours. For example, a 1500 mAh battery rated at 20 C is rated to produce up to a constant 30 amps, but the same is true of a 3000 mAh battery rated at 10 C If you think about it, you should be able to see how a 5 C battery could be producing quite a bit more energy than a 30 C one does. Myth#8: “You don’t need a fuse and your gun runs better without one.” Verdict: mixed It is true that a fuse adds to the resistance of your system and removing it from the equation can have a small but measurable increase in performance. It is also true that the odds of a short circuit occurring that will cause significant problems are low, especially if someone did a good job of wiring the system. However, running without a fuse is a lot like not wearing a seatbelt while driving. The seatbelt is just an annoyance, right up to the point when someone runs a red light in front of you. Even if the odds of a problem occurring are very low, they are never zero, and the potential for expensive damage to your system is MUCH higher without a fuse. Note: there are several fuse types out there that will serve better than the stock “lightbulb” type does. Resettable polyfuses are particularly popular. Myth #9: “Full metal guns are higher quality” Verdict: mixed As you go up the scale in terms of quality, guns are more likely to be made of the same materials as their real counterparts. So what’s the problem? The problem is that there are exceptions both ways. Tokyo Marui represents yet another exception to the norm here, as many of their models are made from polymer. There are also several full metal guns out there that will break far more easily than polymer does due to cheap casting. Myth #10: “Polymer is a stronger version of/sibling to plastic.” Verdict: false There is some argument on the exact definition of plastic, but one thing that is for certain is that plastic is a generic term for various kinds of polymer. The two terms are largely interchangeable, and have absolutely nothing to do with the material’s strength. Myth #11: “High capacity magazines can only be fought with other high capacity magazines” Verdict: false If the only response you can think of to someone spraying plastic in your general direction is to spray just as much back at him, you need more experience and/or more training. There is always a response to heavy incoming fire, and simply attempting to match it bb for bb (without doing anything else to supplement the action) is often the least effective option. Myth #12: “using heavy ammo is a convenient means of bypassing FPS checks.” Verdict: you might be able to make it work, but it is a really bad idea regardless Using heavier ammo decreases your nominal speed, but not the energy behind your projectiles. Fields with an FPS limit are well aware of this, and will often require a particular weight be used. In some cases, if they aren’t particularly cautious, you might be able to lie about your bb weight and get away with it. Don’t. This sport is based on honor and integrity. In addition, many experienced players are able to tell the difference between the impact of guns shooting at various joule levels. If you get caught having deliberately bypassed the chrono station, the least that will probably happen is you getting banned from the field. Myth #13: “you need at least seven guns to play airsoft” or “You can never have enough gear, the more the better” Verdict: false There’s nothing wrong with having a huge arsenal if that is what makes you happy. However, the vast majority of airsofters do just fine playing with a limited amount of gear that suits them well, and are not at any particular disadvantage for doing so. Myth #14: "Everyone on your team needs to use the same gun. It keeps logistics simple, and means you can share mags on the field." Verdict: false While this kind of ability to swap ammo around can come in handy, cases where being able to share magazines is of particular benefit are hard to come by in airsoft, at least once you get to the point where you’re coordinating gear. Either a match is short enough that you should be able to carry everything you could possibly need, or long enough that with a little foresight can find the time to redistribute manually. Ensuring that people can swap mags around is likely to be significantly less important than ensuring that everyone has a gun well suited to their play style, personal preference, and role, which can be extremely difficult when working off of the same platform. Myth #15: “You don’t need to know how to work on your gun, just let the techs handle it” Verdict: false, at least in most cases For one thing, knowing how your gun works is an important part of using and caring for it effectively. For another, even if you know an airsoft tech that would never in a million years scam a customer, going to them to do every little thing is a waste of their time and your money. It also means that you have to wait to get it to them, wait for them to deal with it, and wait for it to come back. In some cases, you might have been able to diagnose and solve the problem while at the field, letting you keep playing. Unless you are an expert yourself and have all the tools you could ever need, there are always going to be things you can’t deal with, and going to a tech is certainly an option in those cases. But nearly all upgrades and problems can be dealt with using just a little bit of knowhow on your part. Myth #16: “Everyone should have a sidearm” Verdict: mixed A sidearm can be incredibly useful, especially if working with a weapon with a minimum engagement distance, or is otherwise not suitable for close quarters. But for most players, it is a luxury, not a requirement. Myth #17: “A good player can beat ten bad ones” Verdict: false This might be technically possible, but is extremely unlikely to occur without a combination of blind luck, and gross incompetence on the part of those ten players, more than just a lack of skill. An overwhelming numbers advantage can be overcome, but it is almost always a matter of excellent teamwork and tactics rather than some lone wolf’s personal skill. Myth #18: “you can play airsoft anywhere” Verdict: false By playing airsoft where ever the heck you wish to, not only are you putting yourself and others at risk of severe physical injury and legal trouble, you jeopardize the way the public and legal system views airsoft in general. Your antics now could very well lead to the truth of the matter being “you can play airsoft nowhere” Myth #19: “Good shooting practices don’t really matter much in airsoft” Verdict: false Some specific practices may indeed not be necessary, given that they are designed to deal with the recoil effect of real guns. However, they are all designed to ensure that you can effectively engage your targets, and will help you become a more effective player out on the field. Myth #20: “You can train for airsoft by playing FPS games on your computer” Verdict: false Any theory on tactics and approach you might pick up is likely to be badly flawed. Also, while FPS games can improve hand eye coordination (which is indeed useful), your actual physical movements need to be committed to muscle memory. Messing with a controller stick doesn’t remotely compare to physically running though drills Myth #21: “Airsoft is pretty much like paintball. If you were a good paintball player, you'll be a good airsoft player (from the start)."” Verdict: false The equipment behaves differently and has different capabilities. The gamestyle follows its own approach and set of rules, and the overall team tactics are typically modeled after those used by the military. Speaking as an individual who came to airsoft after having become an excellent paintball player, many of the tips and tricks (that are not specific to the equipment) that kept you effective as a single individual player do transfer, but almost none of the overall tactics do. A skilled paintball player does have the potential to become a skilled airsoft player, but they will need extensive retraining. Myth #22: Hopup mod X (usually R hop) is always the best Verdict: false This one only gets a false verdict due to an oversight. Several hop up mods exist, and most of them are indeed extremely effective. However, they only represent a single piece of the puzzle. The right barrel, ammo and compression system paired with a stock bucking will outshoot an R hop mod that is done without addressing those other factors every time. Myth #23: “Aftermarket parts are drop in upgrades that will cause an immediate improvement over stock” Verdict: false Airsoft gun components are, with very few exceptions, not just plug-n-play. Stronger springs for instance often require that other work be done on the gearbox and gears to avoid damage. A new motor can have a similar effect, or even do nothing at all if starved by your choice of battery. In order to effectively upgrade your gun, you must recognize and treat it for what it is, a complex system where the performance of each part has a profound impact, for good or ill, on everything else. Edit to entry 6 suggested by Lurkingknight from ASM Entries 9 through 12 suggested by RenegadeCow from ASF Entries 13 through 21 suggested by Shutaro from ASF Entry 22 suggested by Vanevery from ASF Entry 23 suggested by Guges MK3 from ASF
  3. Actually, a heavier bb will, up to a certain point, actually increase both your range and accuracy. Did you never wonder why snipers and DMRs often use 0.40g or higher? This is because the increased mass of the projectile makes it more difficult for the air to slow the bb down. You continue to get more range right up until the point where the gun starts having trouble accelerating the bb effectively. You will want to tailor the weight of your bb to your muzzle energy. With a 400 FPS gun I would actually be looking even higher than 0.25, more like 0.28 or 0.30.
  4. That depends on what gun you're talking about and how you look at it. In most cases, the basic act of swapping a NiMH out for a Lipo is just a matter of plugging it in, and the gun should work fine. However, some stock guns have increased mechanical wear when using a 7.4v lipo, and all stock guns have increased mechanical and electrical wear when using an 11.1v lipo. If you don't prepare your internals ahead of time, this can and will cause components to break far sooner than they would normally have. If the only reason you are going for a LiPo is the ability to operate in cold weather, stick to the 7.4v. In most cases, preparing for it is just a matter of properly tuning your gearbox, which should be done anyways. And as for winterizing your gun, it isn't just high quality stuff, but rather the right ones. Many of the best greases in the world will congeal in cold temperatures.
  5. I cannot and will not advocate or advise that you break your local laws, even if there's zero chance of being caught doing so, and strongly encourage you to find out for certain whether or not discharging the rifle is still illegal if done indoors on private propery. However, I'm going to ignore the legal issue for the moment and answer the actual question. The BBs can damage glass, drywall, wood, and a surprisingly large number of other things. There is nothing inherently preventing you from doing this. I myself have taken to testing my guns after a rebuild while indoors. However, anything that you are not willing to damage needs to be moved and/or protected, especially if shooting from more than basically point blank range. I might also suggest that you make a particular effort towards keeping the mess contained and cleaning up after yourself, I doubt your mother will appreciate plastic pellets in her sheets.
  6. From the sound of it, what you want is not a sniper rifle. Its a common mistake, a lot of civilians seem to think that every long range accurate shooter is a sniper. A true sniper typically fields a bolt action rifle, typically works on their own or with a single spotter, and is normally more concerned with stealth and recon than ever firing said rifle. What it seems you want would be what is known as a designated marksman rifle. A designated marksman carries an accurized battle rifle, and is tasked with pinpoint medium to long range shots while working with a unit. One of the best DMR platforms available, both in the real world and in this sport, would be the M14. The performance as you might expect varies by brand, but with the exception of Kart, I don't know of any that really do poorly. There are two catches, one is that it is a long and heavy rifle, the other is a relative lack of rail space. Enter the M14 EBR, ditching the wooden body for an all metal construction, this variant has plenty of rails. Unfortunately, even the cheapest EBR out there costs more than your budget. Frankly, I'm going to echo others and tell you to save up. The vast majority of guns within your budget range, including the ones you linked, are pretty much just complete junk.
  7. He did mention that he wanted it to be easy to upgrade. KWA is pretty much anything but that.
  8. Is $400 your entire budget? Don't forget to save some of that for the other essentials to get you started. Eye protection (face protection also strongly recommended), battery, battery charger, and ammunition. In any event, I don't know of any guns with an OOTB effective range of 60 meters like you are asking for. However, you can get close, and a good gun won't take too much effort to upgrade to the point where they can manage that and more. In your budget range and performance requests, I would be looking at three brands. Tokyo Marui, VFC, and G&P. TM has excellent performance, but are a little under-powered for most people's tastes. Also, the polymer bodies is a bit of a turnoff, even though the material used is excellent quality. Pretty much every aftermarket upgrade part on the market is made to TM's spec. VFC and G&P are roughly in the same boat. Excellent externals, good but not truly stellar internals, and incredibly easy to upgrade. Which of the two is actually better is rather tough to say.
  9. I have never seen those kinds of connectors before, but it looks like they'll have the same kind of circuit resistance issues that tamiya does. Go ahead and replace them with whatever is convenient. As for the battery, that is a really small unit. How long a battery will last depends on a large number of factors, from brand to how well you care for it to how it is used. But a general rule of thumb is that you will get one shot per 1-1.5 mAh storage capacity. 200-300 shots are quite unlikely to last throughout a day of play, even if a high level of trigger discipline is exercised. Heck, someone with a high rate of fire gun who is working a support role can expect to burn through that many shots in a minute or two of heavy firefighting. Also, average C rating for NiMh cells is 10. Which means that the battery you've got is probably only capable of putting out around 3 continuous amps. Which is almost certainly not enough. For reference, most stock motors in stock guns try to draw between 5 and 15 amps depending on where it is in its cycle. Higher output motors can draw as much as 40 continuous amps. Your motor apparently has enough to pull through and work, but starving it like that means the motor and battery are under significantly increased stress, and the system is not cycling nearly as fast as it could. So, yeah, strongly suggest getting another battery or two. You should be able to find a 1500 or higher mAh NiMh battery that will fit in that compartment, 1000-1500 shots and somewhere close to a 15 amp max output.
  10. What do you mean by non standard battery and connectors? The "standard" plug type would be tamiya. http://i01.I.aliimg.com/photo/v1/327800777...a_connector.jpg They're cheap and easy to work with, but frankly perform quite poorly. Most airsofters end up switching them out for a better connector, usually dean's ultra. http://www.amain.com/images/medium/wsd/wsd1300.jpg If the connectors on your battery and gun look like those in the second image, I would suggest keeping them and switching out those on your charger rather than the other way around. Or better yet, if you're confident with electrical work, splicing it so the charger can deal with both connector types is a possibility. Aside from the connectors issue, is there a reason why you need to replace the battery? Chances are that the battery is the one used by the previous owner, and is likely to work at least to some degree. Of course, that's tough to say for certain off of a craigslist sale. If replacing it proves to be necessary, the standard battery type for an unmodified AEG would be a 9.6 volt NiMh battery with the highest amperage you can cram into whatever battery space you have. You can get better performance from higher output batteries, but risk causing damage if a number of system tweaks aren't made first. Elite, Intellect, and Turnigy (which is distinct from Tenergy, a brand with a bad reputation around here), are all good brands to look for. Also, dedicated airsoft websites are unfortunately often poor places to look. Just a bit too much in the way of markup. The same or better batteries can often be found for less on RC and hobby stores.
  11. The wiring for these are quite simple. You've eliminated the battery and fuse as possible problem areas. That leaves the wiring itself, the motor, and the trigger assembly. -Wiring is fairly easy to check, just look for any loose or damaged connections. Chances are that if there was a problem here you'd have spotted it already, but looking closer can't hurt. -The trigger assembly should also be simple to check. There are three metal contacts inside, two are fixed and connected to wires, the third is made to bridge the others together. If for any reason pulling the trigger fails to cause all three contacts to be touching, you've found your problem. -The motor is very difficult to diagnose by eye, you'll need to use other methods. The simplest thing to do would be to briefly connect the battery directly to the motor, being careful to avoid short circuits and to keep the polarity right. Alternatively, if that current detector you mentioned also reads resistance, you can check the resistance across the poles on the motor. There should be a very low amount of resistance.
  12. Most likely, your fuse is blown. Check it.
  13. If all you need is something cheap to protect your system, I suggest building your own basic 'fet. It isn't much more difficult than properly installing a prebuilt one and if you're paying more than $10 for the materials someone is overcharging by quite a bit. http://airsofttutorials.com/tutorials/diy-mosfet.html If you want a prebuilt unit and/or something programmable, be careful with the cheaper units, they can cause a fair bit of harm. The one's sold here http://mystikals-customs.webs.com/productsservices.htm are extremely reliable and come with a built in resettable polyfuse which will let you safely ditch the standard one
  14. Oh I don't know, maybe, just maybe, because it addresses the dillemna he describes? High performance in a small package, but without LiPo's drawbacks that he is concerned about. I didn't suggest something specific because I don't know for sure what dimensions he's working with. But if a PEQ Lipo will fit, then so should this http://airsoft-club.com/shop/batteries-bbs...-for-peq-15-box
  15. Which is best? that's tough to say. All of them should last, all of them should provide a good airseal. Once those two needs are met there isn't much more you can ask of a nozzle. They also all come from trusted brands. The only practical difference I know of involves the deepfire. It should last longer than the others (bear in mind that the others are likely to last longer than the gun will if not abused), but I have seen some concern expressed about metal nozzles potentially damaging bbs. I have never seen evidence of this occurring, but it is something to consider. Based on my understanding, the modify is just a copy of the Prometheus unit I linked. It apparently does well.
  16. Most dump pouches are likely to have the space if you're just looking for something versatile to fit it in. As for the vest, good luck. The makers of airsoft gear seem to forget that big guys play this sport too. Tac vests in particular are bad about only coming in one size.
  17. Heh, you might have to scale it up a bit for that. Mine just launched badminton shuttlecocks for a relatively short distance and had to be reloaded every time. You would also have to ditch the detection system in favor of firing angle controls, and it would be much easier to aim properly if you were next to the machine.
  18. You know, you don't have to replace your wiring with the exact same thing. If it will fit, A 14 gauge (or awg as it may also be called) copper wire will work much better for your system than an 18 gauge aluminum will. Also, avoid splicing wires if you can, even a perfect splice will add resistance to your system. It would be much better to replace the whole thing with an unbroken wire. If you can't avoid splicing it, at least tin the connection with solder. as for where to get your wire, I like ordering from these guys http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/_...Mesh_Guard.html Pretty much everything you need to work on airsoft electrical systems for a good price. (including excellent batteries by the by) Only catch is the slow shipping.
  19. Try a 9.9V LiFePO4, they're tough to find in the right size and shape for airsoft, but are only a little less energy dense than LiPo and FAR more reliable.
  20. shape is largely irrelevant, what matters is how far back the leading edge of the port is. If its too far forward for your barrel and you aren't getting enough air. Too far back and you lose out on efficiency. Yeah, chances are good that that's it. Though I would go ahead and check everything else while you're at it. See if you can't get close to perfect compression. Any of these would work well for the part replacement http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=5619 http://www.airrattle.com/Lonex-M4-M16-O-Ri...-p/gb-02-09.htm http://www.amazon.com/Deep-Fire-Airsoft-No...e/dp/B00BTM6SKO
  21. Well that certainly puts my old autotargeting trebuchet to shame. If you can indeed keep the cost relatively low, this would be great. I would certainly be willing to buy and use one if spare funds could be found. As for FOF, you could probably set it up to fire based on colors other than red, such as the presence or absence of blue. If armbands and the like are not in use for the game session, you could just issue color cards to the team using the senty to wave around while running through the field of fire. I don't know about this, but that trebuchet I just mentioned? About a 35 meter engagement distance to within a decimeter or so (laterally, vertically was a different issue) using nothing more than a series of 25 cent ping sensors. The speed of engagement was pretty slow, but we were limited by how fast our small motor could shift the rig, which was quite a bit more awkward and heavy than this would be. With the right programming and detection system, this could do very well.
  22. In spite of what some will tell you, FPS beyond a certain point is among the least important attributes of your gun. In fact, Tokyo Marui guns, which are widely regarded as some of the best stock guns money can buy, are limited by Japanese law to 1 joule of energy at the muzzle. (in other words, not a single one of them shoots faster than about 330 fps with 0.20g bbs unless upgraded) This doesn't stop them from performing as well or in many cases much better than guns that have much higher stock FPS. So long as you have enough muzzle velocity to support your gun's effective range, anything else is extra, or even in some cases a liability. To put it another way, if your accuracy will only let you reliably hit a target at 50 meters at the maximum, upping your FPS so that the bb can travel up to 150 meters only serves to hurt the people you shoot more than normal. If you start to seriously upgrade accuracy, and/or do something that reduces muzzle velocity, then upping your shot power becomes a concern. 300-350 fps is fine for most stock guns. In fact, I often end up recommending that people getting a JG reduce their FPS by a little if they plan to play CQB most of the time. If you do find yourself in a situation where you want or need to increase FPS, installing a stronger spring is usually the most direct method. But be careful, while a minor increase in spring strength is usually fine, a major one can screw up your gun in a variety of ways if you don't do other work on your system to support it. That M130 you mention for instance would probably break the stock piston and/or gears in a CM16. I wouldn't worry too much about polymer bodies. If they are of decent quality, they'll actually be as strong or stronger than many of the full metal bodies you will find in that price range. Certain all metal Kart brand guns for instance have been known to break like rotten wood upon dropping them. Both the King Arms and ICS guns would be good alternatives based on what I understand. I'm afraid that I can't give you specific details on how they compare, I don't personally have much useful info. I'd suggest running through reviews for each of the guns you're interested in and checking for trends.
  23. Not all the cm16 models have blowback, but yeah, avoid that feature. Aside from the maintenance issue, the recoil is pathetic enough that the feature only detracts from the realism in my opinion. In any event, as for a particular suggestion based on the parameters given: On the slightly expensive (and better performance) end of your budget, I would look into the Lonex M4-A1, the basic versions typically sell for around $200. Only catch is they can be tough to find. If you would prefer to save a little more money, the JG M16 DMR on your list would be a good choice. Even cheaper, for as little as $120, would be the JG G36. It is considered to be one of the best AEGs available for under $150.
  24. Not knowing anything else about your system, My first guess would be an air seal issue. Check around your bucking, nozzle, piston, and cylinder for anything that might let air escape. Also make sure the barrel and hopup unit are pretty firmly jammed back towards where the nozzle would meet up with them. Most of the time, such problems are not going to be easy to see. You're going to have to rely on other cues, like laying a small piece of paper over a potential problem area, and seeing if it is blown away when the gun is fired. Or placing a finger at the end of the nozzle and feeling how difficult it is to push the piston in with what is supposed to be the air's only exit blocked. There's an excellent guide for improving overall system compression linked at the top of this subforum.
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