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Everything posted by Daishain

  1. That really depends on what you're going to use it for. There is no one best gun in any budget range. Will you use it for CQB, field, or a little of both? Are you planning to use it completely stock, or is there a good chance that you will be seeking to upgrade this as you go along? Is this going to be a career long gun or just something to get you started? Is there a particular look or feel for the gun platforms that appeals to you? Are you looking for a platform that maximizes accuracy, or rate of fire, or some balance in between the two? In any event, some general tips to get you started: -The AR15(M4/M16), AK47/AK74, and the umpteen billion variants of the G36 are all common starter weapons. They tend to offer good flexibility and can be used in a variety of roles. Of the three, the AR15 is the most popular platform, and has the greatest amount of aftermarket support. Of course, for the same reason, I hope you aren't trying to field something unique if you pick that one. -JG and CYMA offer fieldable guns that cost a fair bit less than the other brands I'll mention. They'll work, but don't expect the world of them. I'd go for one of these if you just want a starting gun to get you playing while saving up for something more substantial. -G&G and Lonex would be the next step up. Not all their guns are within your price range, but the ones that are should serve you well, The G&G CM16 for instance is considered a staple gun for starting players. They also will do fairly well as a platform for upgrades. -KWA also has a model or two within your price range. One of these should perform better than the other brands I mentioned, but uses proprietary parts, and as a result would be very very difficult to upgrade in any meaningful way, especially for a novice tech. I personally would never choose to buy one of these, their starting advantage disappears very quickly once you start messing with upgrades. However, if you're too afraid of messing something up if you tinker with your gun to try doing so, they might be a viable choice. -Don't get so caught up in buying a shiny new gun that you forget to reserve some of your budget for everything else that you need. Minimum starting equipment includes eye protection (accompanying face protection may be required depending on your field's rules, but is strongly recommended either way), a good battery, a good battery charger, decent ammunition (careful, the really cheap bbs can kill your gun), and some means of transporting the gun to your field without waving it around out in the open.
  2. In your case, I would suggest buying a new battery and a smart charger even if it was the motor at fault. So no, I don't see any downside to you ordering them right away. Try to get both from an RC hobby shop rather than an airsoft website, you're much more likely to get a better deal that way.
  3. Last I checked, standard multimeters could read battery voltage simply by placing the pins in contact with the battery terminals, and do a quick diagnosis that way. No need to hook it up to anything. Actually come to think of it, the last time I placed my hands on a multimeter involved doing exactly that. In any event Nevemoth, what you're looking for would be voltage drops. Charge the battery and test it. Then hook it up and fire those 50 or so rounds until it stops firing and test it again. If at either point the voltage reads at significantly less than 1.2 volts per cell, you've got a dead battery. In the case of a 9.6v NiMH, anything around or below 8 volts is too low.
  4. Basically yes, if the connector won't allow you to split the upper reciever from the lower, just take it off if you can do so without damaging something. That's part of why I like switching to gold bullet connectors, the right diameter will slip right through those gaps without needing to be removed So long as there is zero power running through the system, the only danger with having pins out in the open is that they might get damaged if pinched or otherwise caught somewhere. Just be careful and it will be fine.
  5. Good luck, but if that doesn't work out, I may have an alternative solution for you to consider. I'm currently planning on buying a G&G M14 EBR. Depending on the condition of the unit you have, I might be willing to take it off your hands for enough to pay for that conversion kit.
  6. If the system responds to the battery being charged, however temporarily, I would check the battery first. If you've got access to a multimeter, just read the voltage across contacts. If not, see if you can't find a way to test the battery with a different motor.
  7. Well, the output attributes are good. The fact that it is meant for RC has no bearing on that part. In fact, I often recommend looking for batteries on RC websites, since they are often better buys. It says that the thing comes with a Dean's harness, so there is only one possible issue that I can see, size and shape. That is a big battery pack. If it will fit, great. If not, either prepare to carry it externally in a battery bag/PEQ/etc. or return it. Also, as Guges said, your original LiPo might still be good. It almost certainly took some damage and may not have the same output as before though. Try charging and discharging it a few times while in a safe location and see how it behaves.
  8. Daishain

    Hi !

    Yikes, good luck with that, and welcome to ASF
  9. Does it have to look like a sniper rifle? Because you can take something like a P90 or Tavor, which fit most of your requirements, and turn it into an excellent long range semi auto weapon. Half the point of the bullpup design involves fitting a long barrel in an overall short package.
  10. Why not just buy the WE-Tech M14 EBR? Or if you already have the base M14, they do sell a conversion kit for it. http://www.evike.com/products/33762/
  11. Try to find a dissassembly video before you try and take it apart. You shouldn't need one specific to that particular model, but it does need to be another pump action shotty that uses a clip rather than the tri-shot shells, to give you an idea of what to expect. And yes, if you look around, there are several places that will do repair work, and Evike is one of them. The pricing will vary depending on who you are talking to and what exactly is wrong. I've seen everywhere between $20 and $75 an hour, and usually the cost of replacement parts is on you as well. If I recall right, Evike is priced at $35 an hour. Be careful with outsourcing repair work, if it turns out to be particularly difficult, the bill can quickly add up to cost more than just replacing the gun would.
  12. I can't confirm or deny for certain, but I would be very surprised if you could do so, the interior of the G&G body is designed for an entirely different system. At best you would almost certainly have to improvise some inserts to keep components from rattling around in there.
  13. Just make sure wherever you go you have the permission of the land owner and are away from public areas. There's nothing quite like having a paranoid passerby calling a squad of SWAT police in to ruin your day.
  14. If it still falls under warranty, try to get Evike to do something about it. You're friend would be without a shotgun for a while, but it is relatively risk free. If not, the first place I would look is within and around the trigger assembly. That pump action drives a spring which is locked in place by a piece in contact with the trigger. If something is broken or jammed up in that area, I think it could cause issues like that. Sorry for being vague, I have yet to actually mess with PA shotguns, so I'm not as familiar with their internals.
  15. Your spring will "break in" with use. Usually you will see a total drop of 10-40 FPS over time depending on your spring before it settles down at a fairly constant muzzle velocity. This process takes several thousand rounds to complete though. If you run into a case where you need to bring your FPS down by more than that, there are a couple of ways to do so. Ranging from simply installing a new and weaker spring to sabotaging the one you have by leaving it in a locked back position for a long period of time (careful if trying the latter one, it is easy to overdo. Also, if you want to avoid doing this by accident, always be sure to fire a few times in semi auto before storing the gun) In any event, that is shooting a little bit hot for any kind of close range work. If your friends aren't wearing much in the way of protective clothing, which they probably aren't this time of year, I would personally suggest that you run with a 10-15 foot MED, just as a courtesy to them.
  16. I recently purchased and have already fallen in love with their KP05 hi capa 1911. It works extremely well, can switch between green gas and CO2 as conditions demand, and the extended mag capacity has already saved my sorry arse more than once. Kydex holsters for the standard 1911 will fit, but some require a bit of persuasion via heat or a file. The problem that pops up is with the magazines if you want their carriers to be kydex as well. I received a tip that carriers for a double stack 9mm magazine will fit a hi capa mag just fine, but cannot yet confirm that for you, the unit I found and ordered is still in the mail.
  17. you mean this one? http://www.evike.com/products/43268/ No significant difference in build and quality between the stocks that I'm aware of, the LE just doesn't have the battery compartment built in. In this case, the battery would be stored up front, inside the hand guard. Evike is recommending a small butterfly battery. Same type as would have gone into the crane stock. There are most likely other battery types that would work just as well or better, but I'm afraid I don't know which for certain. Bear in mind that this configuration makes it tougher to get to the battery, either to recharge it or for an emergency disconnect in case of malfunction.
  18. Its a numbers game. The more poorly made a bb is, the more likely it is to break apart inside the gun, which can in turn cause damage. However, in most cases the odds of this occurring are low enough that it is entirely possible to go for years without this happening, IF you are using a relatively low powered stock gun. Frankly though, I don't like gambling with an expensive investment. Also, frankly, the price difference is negligible http://www.walmart.com/ip/Crosman-Airsoft-...000-Ct./9222912 5,000 count crossman 0.20 BBs from walmart $11.67 http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/4111-020g-...hk-2279501.aspx 5,000 count elite force 0.20 BBs from AMS $11.95
  19. That is very very difficult to answer without knowing what kind of gun you are looking for. CYMA for instance, has some very solid budget guns out there, but also produces several... less than stellar examples. Once again, it would be easier to start looking for gun types that interest you within your budget and find which come well reviewed. If you have a question about a particular gun, or are having trouble figuring out what to look for, that we can help with.
  20. There are polymer gun chassis that are very sturdy, and there are full metal gun chassis that are about as sturdy as paper mache. The reverse case is more common, but still. Sorry, but you cannot determine a gun's worth based on these two categories alone. If you want an answer as to whether or not a gun is going to fall apart in your hands, you should probably pick out a few you're interested in and go hunting for in depth reviews by people that have done more with them than just open the box.
  21. Let's see, It looks like Styki means contacts, sylnik, motor, and pakiet, battery. This is a little different from your standard mosfet, but it looks like the same basic configuration as one I'm currently alpha testing. No, you shouldn't need the extra components like resistors, and if the built in fuse is half way decent, shouldn't need one of those either. Frankly though, the first installation method shown makes little sense. The primary point of the mosfet is to take the mechanical switch off of the circuit that is driving the motor. I suppose that install method could be used if all you need is the programming and not the electrical protection, but since you have to mess with the wiring anyways... In any event, the third install image is the one I suggest you follow. Connect the battery to a female dean's and motor to a male dean's, use thick low resistance wiring in each case. Be careful not to get the polarity mixed up. Connect the trigger contacts to that grey piece, pretty much any thin wiring would be fine, and the order in which they are connected is irrelevant. I strongly suggest soldering in the end of one wire and physically testing how the wire will lie within the gun prior to cutting and stripping the other end. Also, always give yourself some slack, you don't want wires loose and flopping around, or bunched up to get rid of extra length, but you also don't want anything to be particularly taut when done either. Do you know your way around a soldering iron? They are not all that complex to use, but can be tricky to get right, and we are talking about a tool that could give you third degree burns within less than a second of skin contact. Or melt straight through a plastic gearbox part for that matter. Plenty of guides to soldering exist online, but most are probably going to be more in depth than you need for this simple stuff. I can guide you along with some tips if you like. As for the wiring, its not oiled, silicon forms the actual polymer coating in many cases. When it comes to the type of wiring, that is partly up to you, and partly up to how much space you have available. The thicker the wiring, the less resistance there is in the circuit. Different coatings also have certain benefits, such as abrasion resistance. Personally, I like using 14 gauge teflon coated copper wire for the higher load wiring. This is thick stuff, and relatively hard to bend and work with. But it is also tough, and adds less than half the resistance to the circuit than standard 18 gauge wiring. For a simple signal wire like the ones coming off of the trigger contacts, the choice is less critical. Any old 20-24 gauge wire should do.
  22. Try "AIRSOFTUSA" first (16% off, but does not apply to all items.) If the discount turns out to be less than the shipping cost, use "FREESHIP" instead to get free standard ground shipping.
  23. Interesting, I was led to believe that "standard" and "midcap" were interchangeable terms, they've certainly been used that way. Are there any practical differences other than relative capacity?
  24. First of all, a full metal gun does not necessarily indicate quality. For instance, Kart used to make an M14 EBR. Full metal externals, the thing was built like a tank and bloody heavy to lug around. However, the metal used was cheaply casted zinc alloy. Which in turn meant that a lot of the guns in question broke the first time it recieved significant stress, such as dropping it three feet to the ground. There are plenty of polymer based guns that will last far longer than certain full metal ones. With that stated, yes, that Lonex should do just fine, both internally and externally. -Battery: I don't suggest that you mess with alternative battery types and locations for now, which means that you need at least one, preferably two, small two tube crane stock 9.6V NiMH battery(ies). Turnigy, Elite, and Intellect, are good brands, Matrix and Tenergy are two brands to avoid. Given the limited space, you will probably be limited to a 15-1600 mAh battery, which should last you a bit over 1,000 rounds on a full charge. The following would be a good choice, but you can almost certainly find it cheaper elsewhere. Evike tends to hike the price of their batteries up by quite a bit http://www.evike.com/products/29458/ -Charger: The choice for this one can get complicated. Any smart charger by the same battery brands I mentioned before should work just fine for your first battery, but most airsofters eventually switch over to a more advanced battery chemistry at some point in their "career". With that in mind, I believe that this charger http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/u...?idProduct=7028, which needs to be paired with a purchased seperately PSU like this http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/_...wer_Supply.html is going to be your best buy right now. It is very robust, and can handle all three of the battery chemistries you normally see used in Airsoft. But it is strictly speaking more than you need for that first battery you are getting. -Eye protection: Minimum requirements for airsoft eye protection are as follows. ANSI Z87.1 or better impact rated lenses, no gaps in the eye area where a bb could concievably pass through, and secured to your head well enough that it is not going to fall off or shake loose while running around on the field. Mesh goggles are a popular alternative choice to proper lenses, but I suggest avoiding them. They work well enough most of the time, and have advantages such as a lack of fogging, but one unlucky hard strike with a poorly made bb has a low but non zero chance of sending shards of plastic into your cornea. Make sure whatever you get has adequate ventilation. There's nothing quite like running around blind as a bat due to fog. -Face protection: This is probably not strictly necessary. Some fields require that youngsters (or everyone for that matter) wear a mask of some kind, most don't. Whether it is necessary or not, I suggest getting some anyways. After your eyes, the portions of your body most easily damaged by bbs are your teeth, throat, and ears, protecting them just makes sense. You have several options here. Get a full mask, such as a paintball mask, for your eye protection, this can work very well, but carries a risk of causing additional fogging problems, and can interfere with using the sights on your gun. Use a wrap, just wrap or stretch an appropriate cloth such as a shemagh or balaclava over the area in question, nice and simple, and can be adjusted to your liking, but doesn't offer as much protection as other options, and can get bloody hot in the summer. Get a half mask, usually made out of mesh, these are my favorite, they can offer solid protection without causing fog or messing up your cheek weld, but they do add an extra head strap or two in addition to the one for your goggles. -Spare magazines: There are four basic variants of magazines available. Hi caps are the most common and usually have a 3-500 round capacity, they also rattle like a maraca when on the move and you must keep the feeding mechanism wound, either by rotating a wheel or pulling a cord on the bottom of the mag every once in a while. Midcaps require no winding and do not rattle, but take a capacity hit to do it, and are usually able to take about 1-200 rounds. Low caps (also known as real caps) are basically just midcaps with the same ammo capacity as the magazines for the real gun, these are intended for dedicated milsim players and people using airsoft to train for real guns. Box and drum magazines would be the final type, these are usually fed electronically, and require no winding, but they do rattle, the main advantage is an astounding ammo capacity, usually several thousand rounds. Frankly, box and drum magazines are extreme overkill unless setting up your gun as a support weapon (and many would argue that it is still overkill in that case) In your case, your gun will come with a single hi cap magazine. To get you started, I suggest a single spare hi cap magazine, if after a few matches you decide to go for a different magazine type you will then have a good idea of how many you need to carry. Your gun is apparently compatible with TM magazines, which means that brands like G&G, G&P, and Classic Army will also work. -Ammunition: Don't buy 0.12g bbs, and don't buy the kind of bbs you can find in Walmart, Dicks, or other sporting goods stores regardless of the weight. Which unfortunately probably means that you need to order online. This Lonex apparently shoots fairly hot, at around 400 FPS. As a result, you should go for a heavier bb. I would start off with 0.28 or 0.30 gram, and be looking for opportunities to test other weights and see how they perform. As far as brand goes, I like and prefer Airsoft Elite, other trusted bb brands include Bioval, TSD, Tokyo Marui, goldenball, and G&G. You can expect a bag or bottle of 5,000 plastic rounds to cost you under about $15 (price varies by both brand and weight), the same in biodegradeable form often costs a bit under $25. In either case, you can usually buy in bulk, which drives the prices down.
  25. The airsoft community in general has moved off of the forums and onto social media networks like facebook. Which is really bloody annoying as far as I'm concerned. FB might be great for networking, but is only beat out for the title of "worst communicative tool for persistent conversation" by the likes of Twitter and Reddit.
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