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Everything posted by Daishain

  1. You saw the motor spark? from where? and how is your fuse doing?
  2. Most of the other players had gone home for the day. There were just six of us left playing on three man teams. I had a field rental gun at the time, a socom 16, not sure what brand, that performed surprisingly well all things considered, I think the fact that it was a relatively heavy platform saved it from much of the usual abuse rental guns go through. Every last one of us were technically newbies, but I had quite a bit of prior experience from playing paintball. Most of the others were just moving between cover positions and taking potshots at each other across an open area. I went left, flanked the other group, shot two, and the third was hit by my teammates trying to run from me. Game reset, I went right, snuck up behind the guy waiting for me to take the same path I did last time, silent killed him, then shot his two teammates in the back again using the would be ambusher's cover. I never rub a victory into other people's faces, but damn the look they gave me was satisfying.
  3. Sounds like you either have a bad short or the battery contacts are backwards. Since the latter is somewhat unlikely to occur while still using the same battery that worked before, I suggest we check for the former. Start off by inspecting wiring. Look for scorch marks, loose leads, damage to the wire casings, and any evidence that metal on metal contact is occurring where it should not. Your pictures aren't working for me, so I can't see a thing to help.
  4. In CQC, its shortcomings won't hold you back as badly as it would out in the open, but it still is not really a good option. As for options found with the higher budget I'm going to save my fingers which have been busy all day and just link this: http://www.airsoftretreat.com/forums/index...p;topic=10854.0 The topic is a bit old, and some of that info is outdated, but it should give you a better idea of what to look for.
  5. Well, no, I thought that was made fairly clear. If they bought wisely for their rentals, they might have a JG G36 with a weakened spring, but there's no way to be sure. Its a great beginner gun. One thing I am sure of, even if you upgrade your muzzle velocity by that much, it will still be outperformed by the rentals. Lesson number 1 new airsoft players need to learn is that FPS is not the most important attribute of your gun. It is at best a means to an end, and in some cases can even be detrimental to your gun's performance if other attributes are not addressed. Imagine for instance you've got a baseball pitcher that can throw a ball at 150 feet per second, far faster than anything else ever recorded. But this guy has terrible accuracy, and will only hit his target window in front of the batter perhaps one time out of a hundred. What good is he?
  6. If you really want to, go ahead, just don't be surprised when you get badly outclassed by other guns like I mentioned. You can as I was saying, use tactics to get the drop on people, but that will only take you so far, especially as an inexperienced player. As for modding it, I frankly do not know. The only means by which I am aware of to mod that gun to get significantly better performance would cost significantly more than just buying a much better gun, and involve replacing just about everything on the inside. Maybe the guy you found on youtube found a cheaper way, see if you can find out. As for bbs, it doesn't look like it can handle anything more than the 0.12g. Just grab some off the shelf at Walmart, then visually check the bbs for anything grossly malformed and toss it before loading the gun. Bear in mind, the kind of bbs found at walmart, and 0.12g bbs in general should never be used in a decent gun. Not only will they rob you of performance, they have a non zero chance of shattering while inside, possibly leaving chunks to foul up the gearbox.
  7. Hopup is a system that causes a backspin on the bb as it enters the barrel. Nearly all airsoft guns have them. The effect of the backspin is similar to what you get with aircraft wings, creating an upwards force that can completely counteract gravity, at least until it slows down. If adjusted right, it will cause the bb to fly straighter and for a longer distance. A good hopup can do amazing things to the trajectory of a bb. A bad one probably won't hurt things by comparison to having nothing at all, but won't help much either. Several things influence FPS, but the single biggest one would be the strength of the spring that drives your piston. Normally yes, this can be upgraded, at least up to a point, but in this case I strongly suspect trying it will cause your gearbox to break. That might actually be amusing, stick a 250% spring into a polymer gearbox and watch it explode. And finally, useable yes, competitive definitely not. I won't lie to you, you will be at a pretty significant disadvantage using that gun. This disadvantage is not however something that cannot be overcome. If you use your head to get close enough and/or get the drop on the opposing players, it doesn't really matter how good or bad your gun is. Well, unless you get up there and the gun won't fire at all. Then you get to choose between running away or trying to bluff a safety kill.
  8. We live in a society where every single individual has some minor effect on how everyone else lives their lives, not one where a person's interaction with others is determined solely by how they perform their jobs. Let me put it this way, the more ignorant individuals are out there, regardless of how well they happen to do whatever job they have, the more likely society is to make decisions based on, built around, or forced to accommodate ignorant ideas. Correcting ignorance both in ourselves and others is so far as I am concerned a primary duty for any citizen that wishes for a democratic society to perform its job well.
  9. Lets just say that saying the phrase double eagle will make most people around here cringe. That stated, its not bad for a $30-40 dollar gun, and fixing up a busted LPEG to use for a little while is better than going out and buying one.
  10. Let me put it this way This article features a fully functional home built out of about 100 discarded pallets. I think we can manage a bunker. One fairly simple design for a good sized open back and top bunker using 12 pallets might look like this from above: | | |_ _| (Note, this thing isn't showing spaces properly, pretend that out of place line is matched up with its partner on the upper right) With each line representing two pallets stacked edge to edge. Attaching them at the corners of the building gives you most of the structural strength you need, then run a couple of two by fours over the top, and another at the bottom of the back to make it rigid. Knock out a few pallet boards and/or cut a few holes to shoot from Optionally, if you add another 6 pallets, four on top two at the back, you can make it an enclosed structure. Looking for something smaller? Try something more like this: |_ Just two pallets in this case, all you make here is something to dive behind and shoot from with about 120 to 180 degree's worth of cover.
  11. They do say that, which threw me off as well, but that may be Evike's doing, they've fudged up the details on their products before. I haven't run a crane stock myself, so no I'm not entirely certain. But I do have a hunch. If I recall correctly, some crane stocks have a three ringed insert intended to hold the batteries in place. I believe that is the piece you are seeing. It should be removable. See if you can run the battery without that piece, or better yet, modify the middle ring to fit the third part of the battery. Double check everything before attempting a permanent change, you don't want to ruin a good stock on a mistaken hunch that it might help.
  12. I know, just trying to keep it relatively simple without adding new variables to the mess. My goal was simply to get him to understand things well enough to buy a battery. Not build a circuit.
  13. Ah, I see. The wires are soldered on, you aren't going to be able to just pull them out and stick the new ones in. Is there a particular reason you can't do the electric tape job? Or the trick Guges mentioned with the shrink wrap? I assure you that both can last.
  14. Well, most of that is fairly obvious. Just avoid whacking or otherwise stressing the chassis. Amazingly enough, sitting on it or trying to use the thing as a war club is likely to have bad results. Beyond that: -Clean the inner barrel when you first get the gun. You wouldn't believe the amount of gunk manufacturers can leave in there. -Don't spam the trigger or run it for too long in full auto, your internal components are rather delicate -It can apparently get a decent fps with 0.20 gram bbs, so just go ahead and use that weight, don't try getting the 0.12 stuff. -Make sure you get ammunition from a reputable brand, which basically means online or from a proper airsoft store. The stuff sold by Walmart, Dicks and other generic retailers is pretty much universally crap that is likely to (at least eventually)destroy your gun.
  15. I'm sorry, but I must be missing something. How does where you live affect anything? If you want to replace the wires, 16 guage teflon coated wire is often recommended, but can be a little stiff to work with. You don't exactly have a high performance setup and as a result can go down a size to 18 guage and/or switch the coating to the standard plastic if you don't want to mess with that. Other things you will need, and there's a good chance your neighbor might have some of this stuff if he repairs his own equipment: -cheapo soldering iron, anything in the 20-40 watt range will do fine -rosin cored 60/40 solder -heat shrink wrap -some means to shrink the heat shrink wrap. A lighter will do. -some means of cutting and stripping wire. For wires this thin just some basic sharp scissors will work for this if you don't have more appropriate tools. -a work area that has at least minor ventilation. -parental knowledge and consent Sorry about that last one, this operation is safe, quick, and easy if you pay attention to what you're doing. But you will be working with a tool that can pretty easily burn most things it touches. Whether that happens to be your hand or the carpet. If you weren't scared off by the list, I can walk you through the rest if you wish.
  16. For the same reason people pay $50 for "designer" jeans rather than $20 for a walmart brand, even though in many cases they are both cheaply made in the same Asian factory and just had a different label slapped on. Even more extreme examples of this would be the diamond and eyewear markets. Fashion and branding is a stupidly powerful force in an open market, and unfortunately airsoft is not much different in this respect.
  17. -Either get a mosfet or a lower voltage battery, you've got electrical arcing and need to nip that in the bud. Still not convinced that will fix your full auto issue though. -You can probably just clean the scorch marks off of the bridge contact rather than replacing it. I'd take care of that while you're at it, that carbon is robbing your system of performance. -Don't forget to check the cutoff lever while you are at it. It will be a small lever that extends from within the gearbox to your trigger contact area. Look for anything limiting its motion or unusual wear and tear on it. -By "ultimate upgrade anti lockup" do you mean you've got a forward assist unit in there? If so, that may be our culprit. Those are made to bypass the cutoff lever to avoid it engaging too early when firing semi auto. If not installed correctly or otherwise not working as intended, they can cause issues like this. Who did the upgrade?
  18. If money is an issue, why shy away from the options that are much cheaper than buying a new gearbox at all? If you do it right, the tape is never going to come off. Remove the battery, clean the surfaces where the tape would go with a volatile solvent like isopropyl, wait for it to completely air dry, then apply the tape evenly. It won't go anywhere from then on so long as you don't mess with it. If you really really want to make sure, you can brush a thin layer of acrylic glue or resin over the tape. Doing a proper wire replacement and solder job would be better, and probably quite a bit easier than you think, but you apparently don't want to mess with that.
  19. That is somewhat up to you. Running without a fuse is an option. You lose some resistance in your circuit that way, improving efficiency. Of course, it is a fairly major risk. Get caught with a major short and no fuse and you had better hope that all it does is melt the wires. Not an option I'd recommend, even if the odds of that happening are low. The standard burnout fuses are dirt cheap and work well. Just get something in the 25-30 Amp range. http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/2699-ACC-F...s-For-AEGs.aspx For a slightly more expensive but also more functional option, try polyfuses. These suckers reset after a short instead of simply burning out. Allowing you to keep playing after they go off (if the issue that caused it is not ongoing) The catch is that they take a little longer to respond to a voltage hike than standard fuses. http://www.jactlegion.com/content/mosfets-and-polyfuses-sale
  20. I mean no offense, but your freinds aren't advising you very well. You would likely have an easier time hitting your target with that SMG by throwing it rather than shooting it, could probably get more distance too if you have a decent arm. As for your last question, did you mean in terms of taking care of the guns or safety in regards to airsoft in general? P.S. Gotta say, that is a delicious looking field. Wish there was something like that in my area.
  21. C rating is just a measurement of how fast the battery can empty its entire energy supply. It is kind of like me telling you that I can run between my workplace and my apartment in less than five minutes, without telling you how far apart those two locations happen to be. Depending on the distance, that claim might be really impressive or really pathetic. C rating does not on its own tell us what we really need to know, which is how fast it can supply energy, regardless of how much it has in storage. A battery with a really low C rating but a high energy reserve may be supplying energy to the system just as fast as a battery with a low energy reserve and a high C rating. Think of amperage as a measurement of how much raw energy is flowing through an electrical system at a given instant. A max amperage on a battery would be a measurement of how fast the battery can supply energy to the system. Amp hours, (or milli amp hours for that matter, 1Ah=1000mAh), are indeed a measurement of energy supply. A battery with a 10 Ah supply could continuously provide 1 amp of power to a system for 10 hours before running dry, or it could supply 10 amps to a system for one hour. Torque is rotational force, it is the same kind of force you use when turning a wrench to tighten a bolt. Your motor moves the gears that allow your gun to shoot by means of rotating a shaft. In order to push a heavier load, your motor needs to put out more rotational force. In order to put out more rotational force, it needs to use more amperage. If that was still a bit difficult to understand, just think of a high voltage low amperage system as being a bit like a squirrel, while a high amperage low voltage system would be comparable to a bull.
  22. If that really is all you can manage, it might suffice for a little while. Don't expect much out of it, and be very very careful. That thing is likely to break if you give it an ugly look. Alternatively If you think you can learn to use one effectively, there are spring shotguns out there within your budget range that are actually pretty damn good. They will take more skill on your part to use effectively, but they would be much more reliable, and the purchase would not be as much of a waste.
  23. There are no legally authorized makers of Eotech replicas, and their legal department has been cracking down on violators lately. So yeah, they're going to be tough to find. It really is a shame about the pricing for the real things.
  24. Depends on the issue. As I understand it, a mosfet might help with preventing some causes of this issue, but probably won't fix what you've already got. Your first checkpoint is going to be the trigger contacts and cutoff lever. Stop being skeptical and just look. We can always move on to something else if both are fine. Check here for beginning details on what to look for. Other things to check depend pretty heavily on what else you have done to the gun. What kind of changes have you made to it compared to stock? Changes include new batteries and unusual usage P.S. I would be quite skeptical of pretty much anything coming out of Evike if you can't confirm its standard price and performance via other retailers. They have excellent deals from time to time, but they also peddle a lot of junk. I would also suggest that you check out HSA's mosfet series instead.
  25. A. the fine print on that Evike coupon is that nearly everything you would ever want to buy from them is not included in the 20% discount. B. The same battery can probably be found elsewhere for half the price. Matrix brand is Evike's way of slapping a new name and higher price on other people's products. C. The motor will do jack all for you compared to the one you have until and unless you make other upgrades to your system. D. The motor grip is probably fine, but its mostly an unnecessary cosmetic thing. E. The gearbox wiring you are worried about can be easily repaired (or upgraded for that matter), using $20 in tools that will serve you well for many more applications than just this one.
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