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Brad1895

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About Brad1895

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  1. I have tried 2 different motor cages. I will see if I can find another v3 gearbox.
  2. No dice. I have tried both the original gears, a new shs set, and a random bevel gear from my old set. Still not sure what's wrong.
  3. Well, here I am again. A broken gun in one hand, and a shaking fist for the other. I won an ak in a contest not too long ago. I have no clue what brand it is; which may be part of my problem. I have a retro arms gearbox (bought mainly for the quick change function) and an Echo 1 red torque motor. No matter what I do, the motor pinion is pressing down hard onto the bevel gear. I have tried every combination of shims and lack thereof all to result in a horrific grinding noise. There is no play between the two gears either. I'm at a complete loss. I have tried a new motor cage, new and stock motor, 3 different pinions, and 2 gearsets. What am I missing? -Brad
  4. Define "trouble." Here's my progress. I have a new piston head on the way(can't get the old one off). Here's my thinking, when I pull the trigger, the gun does cycle, but, the air nozzle is sometimes retracted. The piston is also sometimes out of place. When I took the gearbox apart again, the piston was half way back, and the air nozzle was in the correct position. Could this be a problem related to a bad selector plate/cam? The gun has trouble staying in any given firing mode unless I hold it in place; otherwise, it acts like a fuse is blown.
  5. So could it be that the piston was weak? This is an older gun. That piston has seen possibly 10K+ rounds. I've had that thing for close to 5 years. I didn't adjust my AoE, but it seemed fine when I checked it.
  6. Here's a picture of the damage. I can definitely feel the worn section, although it's not supper easy to see in the pics. Should there be any grease in the rails?
  7. Thanks for the tips. My motor is a JG blue top. Yes, it does have neo magnets. It's almost a curse, put the motor down in the wrong spot, and all my screws, springs, and tools fly across. I will check the rails in a bit, but as a side note... I've been struggling with shimming. Now I know how to do it, but the problem lies in the fact that I cannot see my bevel gear with the motor installed. The motor is mounted in the lower receiver of my mp5, and I have no way to mount it other wise. Thanks for the input! EDIT: Yes, the piston does slide freely. It doesn't hang up at all. Could it have anything to do with shimming?
  8. Well since my last post, I found the cause of my binding gearbox. Turns out that the new spring was longer, and my stock piston has a metal insert in it, causing the spring to bottom out while the sector was still engaged. Unfortunately, that's only the beginning. I purchased some new gears because my last set had a missing tooth on the spur. I shim it and reassemble it, then run 500 rounds to make sure my problems are solved, and they aren't. First, the gun would stay in full auto for a few cycles then stop (Already waiting on a new selector plate and cam). Second, bb's rolling out the barrel when I'm not firing. It sometimes double feeds as well. So I pull it apart and find that the nozzle is retracted. Overspin maybe? If so, why? Take the gearbox apart to find that the last 3-4 teeth are almost ground off the piston(excluding the pickup). Now I have a new Bravo piston, but I won't install it until I can fix the problem. My shimming is perfect on the piston (worn right down the middle). I feel like it's one step forward and 7 steps back with this thing. GB version: 2 Battery: 3s LiPo 4000Mah 25C Gears: Echo 1 16:1 gears Piston(stripped): Stock JG/ECHO1 (New): Bravo red Spring: Stock(m120 or m130), I have an M100 on hand.
  9. I would believe the shimming can be the problem. It still doesn't explain why it works outside of the upper receiver. I did change the spring to an m100( can't rememver off the top of my head).
  10. The fet isn't the issue. When my battery is recharged (I use it in a traxxas), I'll make a video. When the gearbox is in the lower receiver, it runs flawlessly. As soon as I slide the upper receiver into place, the gearbox acts as if it's locked up. It doesn't matter if the piston is forward, midway, or back.
  11. I believe I have found the problem! I had the gearbox in the pistol grip. Ran fine. As soon as I slide it in the upper receiver, the motor stalls. It took forever, but the problem seems to be this. Something somehow, is pushing the cylinder out of alignment with the piston, locking the motor. The other issue I have is, the selector switch doesn't engage smi-auto/auto in the correct positions. I don't have a clue with the first one. As far as the other goes, I have some ideas. Any input is appreciated. EDIT: Scratch the cylinder issue. I think it has more to do with my selector plate/switch. It's a random chance as to whether it works or not.
  12. It's a traxxas 25c 11.1v 1400mah. I use a tenergy smart charger on the balance setting. The first fuse was only 25 amps the second hasn't blown yet, but it's a 30amp. The battery pulled it over fine for a while though. It was heating because something was stuck. The piston could be moves manually back, but not with the motor.
  13. That did it! The new cutoff lever fixed it. Although, now there's another problem. I test-fired it with ammo(non-dry-fire), and it work flawlessly for all of 20 rds. Then I pulled the battery cable loose. Ok no problem, just reconnect it. After that, it locked up. I blew a fuse and heat the motor up pretty good. The wired thing was that the piston seemed all the way forwards (I think). I was able to move the piston back/ reset it manually, but I'm lost at that point. Can the length of the spring be an issue? The new one is a bit longer; however, it's an M100 as opposed to the stock M120. Any help is appreciated.
  14. I've had the gun for about 4-5 years, so the worn cutoff seems possible. I failed to mention that after firing semi, the trigger can still be pulled. I think it may have been the mosfet's overload protection (for lack of better term) stopping the motor. A second thing that may be important is that when I turned the sector gear with the trigger and cutoff lever installed, the sector gear would dead stop once it hit the cut off lever. I couldn't turn it if I put a drill on it. I think that may have caused the motor to over-draw, and trip the fuse. Thanks for the input, I'll try in the morning. *EDIT* I have a strong feeling that the cutoff lever is the problem. It looks like a bump more than a point. It probably doesn't help that I was trying to get the cutoff lever to move by means of the sector gear.
  15. First off, hello everyone! So, I bought a bunch of parts for my echo1 MP5A4. An 3S 25C 1400mAh Li-po, M110 spring (stock M120), Gatee PicoAAB fet, and some trigger contacts. I'm about to tear my hair out at this point for a few reasons. First, the gun cycled once after reassembly in semi, but would not shoot again. No smoke, no pop, just did not turn after the first cycle. Everything electrical wise is fine. It runs out of the gearbox, and the motor flew out of my hand when I tested it. The GB is shimmed properly (by my judgement), and nothing seemed wrong when it cycled. I'm at a complete loss. Second, when I tried to take it apart, the motor was stuck on what I guessed was my negative wire to the motor. Well, upon inspection, that was correct. The wire has one way to go, and it is right behind the pinion. The hole for the negative wire is behind the two screw posts. The wire sticks up no matter what. I'm so lost, and frustrated with this. I've seen a thousand tutorials, and scanned the forums for hours/days to get nothing. It also seems as though my cutoff lever is slipping when the sector gear hits it, but I'm more concerned in getting my gun "working" first. Sorry if I missed anything, I'm a noob with this stuff.
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