SlabGizor117

It was a one piece Hopup to begin with so the only difference is that the Lonex needed some filing to fit. And yeah my hop unit is pushed up against the upper shell with o rings on the barrel, and the nozzle moves freely both when pulling the tappet plate back and when shooting the gun and looking up into the hop unit. By dropping a BB in I can see that the BB chambers just fine when I pull the tappet plate and let it forward again but it’s strangely not firing out of the Hopup unit. It does take some slight pressure to push a BB past the bucking lips when dropping it in by hand but nothing the tappet spring can’t handle. Maybe things are different when a mag is inserted but I’m not sure how to test that.

So I bought an ICS M4 to build into my main gun, and replaced the broken ICS hop unit with a Lonex hop unit modified to fit the split GB receiver. I believe the hop unit is at fault because it persists with multiple buckings and even the original nozzle. It's not mag feeding issue, it either fires with low FPS or not at all, with the strangled pop you hear when your hop is too high and it won't fire the BB past the nub. Any ideas what about the hop unit is causing this? Is it constricting the bucking lips into keeping the BB from chambering with ease?

I have a Tokyo Marui M4 with gouged out trades but with the original box and paperwork/catalog. Still functioning great, shimmed and greased. What do you think it's worth? Being an "antique" or "classic", does that mean it's worth much more as a collector piece? Or is it just worth its functionality, which makes it only really a $200 gun?

I have a CYMA M14 which I got an SHS green M14 nozzle. Clandestine Airsoft says that these SHS air nozzles aren't quite compatible with CYMA M14's because they don't use TM spec nozzles, but the stock nozzle on it matched up fine with the SHS nozzle, it has good nozzle to bucking compression, and other people have said it's fine. Clandestine actually says M4 nozzles are a better fit. The SHS M14 nozzle is 21.48mm and the SHS M4 nozzle is 21.5mm, so .02mm difference and if anything the nozzle should be having compression issues instead of feeding issues which I believe are usually an indicator of a nozzle being too long. So I don't want to shave the nozzle down in length if I don't have to, but what else could the problem be? I want to rule everything else out before I start removing material off the nozzle.

Reduce the compression by taking the O-ring off the piston! (jk)

I did find a trigger bar for a KWA USP compact: https://www.rainbow8.com/collections/ksc-usp-45/products/part-no-50-for-ksc-usp-gbb But that's it, I doubt it's compatible. Any other places I can get one? Or if any of you guys have spares... Haha

I'm working on a friend's KWA ERG RM4 and it's not making any trigger contact connection except when the selector switch is in full auto. It may be the selector plate but it's hard to tell when you can only fire it when it's in the receiver with the buffer tube. I'm also trying to not open the gearbox or anything like that because I only have it so I can resolder some wires, I was going to fix a selector switch problem on the side and it turns out that's not the only problem. I think it has to do with the two contacts that the selector plate pushes together when it's not in safe. EDIT: Nevermind, I figured it out.

I've decided to try to start teching airsoft guns in Orlando since there's nobody else in Orlando proper who techs guns and I enjoy it and would like to make some money doing it too. If you or a friend live in or near Orlando and need tech service, hit me up! Here's my Craigslist post with all the info: https://orlando.craigslist.org/sks/d/orlando-airsoft-tech-workrepair-upgrade/6987905852.html

I’m pretty sure it’s just the motor, when plugged directly into a battery it sometimes works and sometimes doesn’t. I replaced the brushes with some extras I had and no change.

Yeah, it’s not cycling. No motor spin or anything.

https://m.imgur.com/a/HWpGAwQ So I got a boneyard M14 but I’m only familiar with V2 gearboxes. The wiring goes straight from the motor to the MOSFET and the MOSFET control wires go straight from the trigger back to the MOSFET. That’s definitely not how a V2 gearbox would be wired but considering the wires are soldered to the motor rather than plugged in like normal, I’m guessing someone did some crazy sketchy redneck engineering. Right? What’s the correct configuration?

GUGES ALWAYS WINS He just lulled Jimbibblo into a sense of false security.

FIGHT FIGHT FIGHT I'm rooting for Guges he always wins

NOBODY'S EVER HEARD THE TERM PACKING BECAUSE IT'S CALLED A BUCKING -rant over-

Oh... I always forget to look at dates. Nice..