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Slodin

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About Slodin

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    ASF Immigrant
  1. I recently received a boneyard WE PDW. Missing Bucking, and hopup nub..I tested it with an old bucking and it worked every shot just no hop cause no nub.. I'm not familiar with GBBRs Does WE GBBR use normal nubs like the ones in AEGs? If so buying a flat nub will make it flat hop? or is there any better nubs out there for GBBR? Maple leaf autobot 70 degrees is good for this? or do people prefer AST or any other brands? (Looking to not go over $10) Is it normal for the inner barrel to wobble so much when I closed the hopup chamber? it has no wobble once I insert it into the outer barrel and tighten it down with screws. The top and bottom bars on the folding stock wobbles, can I tighten it down somewhere? Refer to pic:http://puu.sh/rmmrd/9457d05a29.jpg Is the trigger box 100% the same as the M4 trigger box? Thanks in advance...
  2. WE M4...I suggest getting Green Gas Version of mags.. we m4 parts are easy to get and cheap. green gas is cheaper if you go the propane route (don't actually buy green gas, waste of money) not sure but co2 might cause additional wear on the weapon
  3. whatever you are doing sounds like airsoft guns can do it just fine...pop can, paper target. I think because of hopup, airsoft has a better range you can't use your steel bbs but the co2 can be used. if you are doing backyard shooting I would like to suggest bio bbs..a bit more expensive but they eventually dissolve. It takes a long time but at least it will...
  4. King arms hands down. better external quality + quick change spring gearbox. the trademarks seems like it's painted on the cyma, but engraved in the king arms..(this is purely observing the picture evike provided). I say go for King Arms..
  5. I see...I don't own any RS ARs because I'm in Canada..didn't know they are left on semi...kinda odd to me Thank you for the amount of input... for full auto problem it seems hard to do since I never owned a GBBR...but with time I should be able to figure that out...as long as it doesn't damage the gun in any way on semi this is hardly a problem...have to just make sure my friends don't use full auto when lending it to them... I actually load using the included ramrod...it's not hard..just not able to do it on the field like my glock.. and I do only load 30 exact because the ramrod have a indicator... I saw that WE dragon speedloader a few days ago.....sure as hell look like a dildo..."what were they thinking!" (quote: AVGN) for barrels I'm not looking for more fps..I do know that the tighter it is more fps it gets.. I'm more concerned about jamming/accuracy..and both RA-tech and angry gun makes them roughly the same price.. I lubed and cleaned the gun last night..excluding the trigger assembly cause it looks a bit complicated and it is oiled by the silicon in the gas anyway.. The previous owner seems like he never lubed the gun..it was bone dry...and a lot of scratches on the metal on metal parts although somehow the nozzle looks new and the o-ring looks brand new as well...(usually people would say new this and new that when they sell things to make more money..)
  6. I recently got a used WE HK416(or SOL, or 888 so many names) in a trade with a new RA-Tech trigger box installed..and a few mags This is my first GBBR and I'm still learning about maintenance and cleaning with this gun..I have to base off open bolt M4s because it seems I find many resources on close bolt 416 but not the open bolt version. The mags that came with are all V2 open bolt mags..no leaks so far. 1. Full auto problem: Semi on this is perfectly fine trigger responses is pretty crisp as well. Full auto basically works in 3rd burst, but if I hold it any longer, the gun would just shoot on it's own in full auto..I can stop it by squeezing the trigger again I sorta want to know if this has a long term damage effect on the gun. I personally don't ever use full auto..so I don't really care. But I don't want to damage the gun.. 2. Front rail wobble (Fixed)..The last owner probably took it apart and didn't put it back properly somehow..I just unscrewed it and properly screwed it back in..now it's 100% no wobble.. 3. What is the correct loading procedure: I was told to put it in semi, charge the charging handle, and put the mag in. (it seems like the nozzle would be in the way if the bolt is not locked back) I find it super hard to push the mag in with this approach..so I changed it to put it in semi, charge the charging handle and use the bolt catch to lock the bolt back and then load the mag in..super easy... is one of them bad for the gun? 4. Barrel detachment & thread direction: In one of the reviews (old) I seen that the barrel is 2 piece and you can detach it from a 14.5" to a 10.5".. But I don't know the thread direction of the barrel nor the flash hider...I wonder if the 2 piece is still the case for all HK416 line.. 5. Inner barrel cleaning & upgrade: I always turn my hopup off on my AEGs and use a paper towel or gun clean patch dipped with rubbing alcohol to clean my inner barrels. is this the same for this gun? or can I leave the hopup on.. What is a good barrel for a GBBR? 6.03? 6.01? my bbs are labeled 5.95mm +-0.01mm btw. I hope I can keep it under $50..(ra-tech? angry gun?) 6. Leaving the gun on safe or semi: It seems like I cannot access safe if the gun is not cocked...but is it good to leave it cocked? or should I just leave it uncocked and put the gun in semi.. this is kinda weird...as in I always leave any firearm in safe and do safety checks... 7. Any Recommended speed loader: Is there any good speed loader out there for gbbr? unlike my GBBP I can't reload the m4 mags by carrying a speed loader... Thanks for answering any of my questions...At some point I might just run only gas guns because the recoil on this is amazing...
  7. you should check if your threads on the upper receiver are still good or not.. IMO It's not worth to fix if yours is the 100 bucks plastic lancer.....however..the cheapest items if you really want to: crappy metal RIS assuming yours is not free float and still have the triangle sight - $25-$50 (I got mine used for 20..), you might feel front heavy if your LT body is plastic.. outer barrel - $15-$20 (Don't buy G&P cause most of them are CW instead of CCW, if you have an adapter sure..any brand really don't make too much difference IMO..) I'm pretty sure for a lengthy person you want 14.5" standard length M4 outer..which pairs up with 363mm inner.. Inner barrel - $25-$30 prometheus is gonna be much more..or just get a madbull 6.03 ver 2 for 30..
  8. Hi, I'm currently looking to upgrade my AEG and came up with a few items that I want others to shed some light on. This is my first time actually trying to upgrade a gun, I have been just fixing my aegs and friends with stock parts for awhile..I'm mostly trying to go for the look I want + accuracy. ROF is not my concern since I only play on semi (or use 2-3 burst with a mosfet), but quick trigger respond is nice.. I split my upgrading list into two parts, basically buying them as I get more budget set aside from other stuff. My AEG is a King Arms Colt Full Metal M4A1 I got as a boneyard rifle, which I already fixed and gamed with numerous of times. I was expecting to buy aftermarket parts as I was fixing it, but upon opening the gearbox, everything is still in almost brand new condition just the anti-reversal latch is put in backwards..I did notice the spring on the latch is really weak and thin compare to my other M4 AEGs.. Anyway, here is the list Upgrade list 1st batch (All Internals): General internal upgrade G&G Hopup Bucking Retro Arms Anti-Reversal Latch Spring Burst Wizard Super 2 Mosfet (Hard wire when the 2nd batch rolls in) Krytac Polymer Piston & Piston Head w/ 4 front metal tooth (other AEG piston stripped, so might as well) Upgrade list 2nd batch (Mixed): Converting into short Noveske NSR style knock off 9" keymod front rail (I'm cheap, I know...aliexpress stuff) G&P 9" Outer Barrel (I hope it fits the body..) Madbul Python II 6.03 229mm Inner Barrel Ported Cylinder to match the barrel (is there really a quality difference here? I'm just going to get the cheapest) 16 or 18awg silicon wire for rear wiring and then I will hard wire mosfet ProWin Hopup Angel Custom H-Hop Nub (<- really have no idea what I'm doing) This is my first time trying to convert the barrel length...I don't really know if what I'm buying are all gonna come together nicely What I have right now SHS Red Alumium Nozzle w/ oring (Why did I buy this? I totally forgot, not like the original one don't work..) CTR Stock MOE Grip SunOptics parallax free replica mirco dot (aimpoint) Thanks for looking or sharing information with me
  9. yeah..I totally know what you mean... however, it's just totally weird to have it come undone while closed.. oh well...I just ordered a new spring for the latch maybe that will stop it from doing it.. maybe the previous owner was having this problem as well hence sold it to me for cheap..
  10. Hi, I'm wondering if anyone here had experience with aliexpress free float keymod rails? or any rails from aliexpress.. on the picture they all look to spec..but again, that's just picture.. I'm looking to change the front to a free float, and aliexpress seems the cheapest..(probably king of knock offs) I guess I can say I'm not really worried about quality, only fitment... I have a king arms metal m4.. thanks
  11. yeah, no wire is catching when I put it back together... I actually played 3-4 games before changing the grip to make sure it works correctly.... maybe because when I was doing motor height adjustment on the new grip this happened... Ugh...I have to open it up now cause I have a game coming up on sunday
  12. weird problem..the gun is not cycling correctly..it's doing the shoot, click, shoot, click thing again...full auto is fine yeah when I say again, it means it happened before..although last time was some dude opened up this gun to do god knows what... So he sold the gun to me for cheap, because he thought it was broken.. I got home and opened it up and noticed the anti-reversal latch is in an incorrect position..so I fixed it..put it back together, and it all worked out. I did note that the spring for the latch is somewhat shorter and smaller than normal..(this is a KA Full metal M4) until today when I'm installing a new pistol grip it start to do the same thing again...which is strange because I didn't open up the gearbox at all..just replacing an external grip.. also I noticed the fire selector switch is doing weird stuff as well.. safe to semi is fine, but semi to full is hard to push..(this is not true before replacing the grip) I put back the old grip, but still doing it..so I know it's not the grip.. could I accidentally knocked something out of place in the gearbox by replacing a pistol grip? say the anti-reversal latch? I'm a little tired to open it up again because it's frontal wired with no QD so I'm waiting for a few new parts to arrive so it's worth my time to unsolder and solder the connectors to just take out the GB... also waiting on my silicon wires so I can rear wire this..somehow I can't find anywhere even RC hobby stores for silicon wire..they only offer to do the job for ridiculous amount of money..which I can do myself.. so this post is just really me wondering if this could happen..so maybe I should order another anti-reversal latch spring to stop it from doing this again.. Thanks for looking..
  13. I heard because that's due to the outer barrel being worn out our something... Yeah, I already bought the gun...in early feb The out of box accuracy is a little underwhelming...3/10 curved shots.. I cleaned the barrel and have to wait till next time I go to the field to test it out...backyard is too exposed.. also bought myself a blackhawk holster with a molle attachment for it..loving the quick draw... although I have to mention, some genius decided to add a drop of locktight on the 2nd screw for the hopup.. thus the screw won't come out...mine was stripped to I had to drill it out and then found a right size electronic screw to put it back together... not sure if this is WE adding the locktight, but it is a canadian compatible model where they added a longer barrel to meet the importation rules. so could be WE or someone else... we have weird rules of anything sub 366fps and more than 500fps cannot be imported..not sure why sub 366...lol (thus retailers buy these guns with longer barrels)
  14. Do you have a Famas?...version 1... But Gb versions really don&#39;t mean one is better...btw G36 is version 3 Maybe you should ask him to lend you the gun when you go airsoft with him? so you can check it out before buying it...that price difference...just why..? I would personally choose AK because it's brand new and have warranty, and ofc personally don't dig G36...
  15. If you are in USA, you have a lot of options... for m4s, CM16 is good for starters, the new CM16 SR series are really good with mosfet and electric trigger, it's really nice.. If you want metal then I would recommend KA M4, IMO great internals, and decent external.. Aks, I actually really like the Echo1 ak700 modern ak (this is my first gun lol)..really enjoyed the cling sound when I shot it..Personally I don't like CYMA, but I only handled their full metal Mp5...heavy as hell, and bad metal..not sure about their AKs, I always avoided CYMA, even echo1 in some cases.. M4s are easy to take apart tho... these are just stuff I had my hands on..as for the ak I never had to open it cause it worked fine for me for 2 years and I sold it because I want to play with something else..never had something even come close to that performance... I also had a P90, and Tar21 both are great as well..
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