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About Karrottop009

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    ASF Immigrant
  1. New bevel gear stripped against spur gear, piston second and third after pickup stripped, air nozzle shattered. Yup, I'm done putting up with modded guns. Y'all have your fun. I'm out.
  2. Actually, I did stop by local shop and went over gun with them. That's how we found out about upper receiver defect and improperly sized stock air nozzle. It would be a hell of a lot easier if these components came with material property spec sheets so I can just calculate the right parts. Instead it's always, "I hope this part isn't junk..."
  3. The motor couldn't pull the M120, simple as that. It was a 45k rpm motor after all. The M180 is having no trouble at all, in fact it sheared the SHS bevel gear shaft... Going to try the Prometheus 16.5:1 next.
  4. Well, if anyone wanted to know, I tried out the G&G GR-25 Top Tech model. It was dead accurate, but it chrono'd 508 fps consistently, 80 fps over what it was supposed to (360-420). I didn't feel like voiding the one year warranty swapping the spring. The Evike tech team wouldn't use warranty to change the spring, so I returned the gun. Oh and the mid cap that came with the gun was awful. The hi-cap they sell worked great though. That's all I can say about that ordeal.
  5. Haven't updated this thread in a while, but I had the gun running after fixing a defect in my upper receiver that caused my nozzle to be crooked in hop-up chamber thus binding the nozzle at high speeds. However, the gun was shooting at 330 fps and wasn't effective in outdoor play. So, I put a Systema M120 spring in it and forgot about correcting AOE. I burnt out the ASG 45000 motor and sheared the pickup tooth on the Krytac piston I installed with new spring. I replaced piston with Lonex and corrected AOE. New G&P Satan motor is on the way. I'll try to make a video of that result. Here's what the final build list is looking like: Stock externals Stock gearbox shell with 2 stripped threads Stock tappet plate Stock inner barrel 6.03 mm x 363 mm Stock cylinder G&P M180 Satan motor SHS 16:1 gears Modify AR latch Matrix 6mm bushings SHS Rotary Hop-up chamber Maple Leaf bucking and spacer Systema M120 spring Lonex metal spring guide with bearing Lonex M170 piston SHS Sector clip Gaurder double o-ring cylinder head Krytac piston head Modify air nozzle Extreme Fire SW-SF MOSFET 11.1V 20C 2600 mAh lipo G&P M4A1 drum mag
  6. So, I rewired the gun, took a mm shim off each gear, and retested the circuit. No issues, that's good. I then installed an SHS hop up housing with rotary adjustment wheel with the Maple soft bucking/nub combo to combat the range problem. When the gun was apart, I checked my compression with new piston head, cylinder head, and original air nozzle. The seal was flawless as if the cylinder was hitting a wall just after cylinder window. When I attempted to fine tune the new hopup, the bb's either rolled out the barrel or jammed on either side of a crappy spray. So, all I'm getting is about 3ft diameter spread at 50 ft with .20g and half that distance with .28g bb's. With such good seal in my cylinder arrangement, all I can think to blame is the spring. But even then, the gun shot fairly straight at 50 ft when it was just out the box. Can these springs fatigue that fast?
  7. That's the same theory Terry had. I had originally shimmed the gun to just eliminate gear wobble, but it was still whining like it was too tight(motor height adjustment didn't solve this). I decided to remove a shim from each gear so they can wobble a little bit, but now something happened to my trigger circuit because no voltage is reaching the motor period. I'm out in Lincoln, NE for FSAE competition for the week, so I won't continue till I get back.
  8. I'm considering building Terry's style of MOSFET from scratch. It will need to be durable when wired to a 11.1V lipo battery with 2600mAh <AT> 20C. From my understanding, continuous amperage would be 20C x 2.6Ah = 52A. What I don't see in this guide is anything about a heat sink for the MOSFET. Any recommendations on how to approach component selection to tailor towards my high current setup?
  9. Gun is back together with all the new parts. However, the MOSFET is burning out. The thermal resetting fuse is overheating even though only firing in small bursts. It has a continuous rating of 50 A but a thermal fuse of 30 A that resets slowly. I am contacting Terry from Extreme-Fire to see if he can make a custom mosfet that suits my gun's needs.
  10. While waiting on parts to come in, I decided to solve my problem of wires being rubbed raw by the motor (It's a V2 gearbox). What I ended up doing, is keeping the motor ground wire running out the rear gearbox wire window. What I changed, is running the positive motor and MOSFET signal wires out the FRONT gearbox wire window. I then ran these wires along LHS of the gearbox just above the fire selector plate. For this to work, I had to file a trench into the lower receiver for the wires to pass through the gun stock window. Also, my "bolt catch" release can no longer be installed. I still have the charging bolt cover to keep debris out of the gun, so this modification was totally worth it. I can make a video of this in the future to clarify.
  11. 20 for $4 USD at O'Reilly Auto Parts http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/CTI0/86424.oap?ck=Search_female+disconnects_-1_-1&keyword=female+disconnects
  12. Alright, I dug back into the gun. The cylinder head barrel is the culprit of my junk range. It has sprung a decent leak. The cylinder head impact pad has been hammered loose and chewed up. The 6mm ball bearings I installed the gears with have exploded. The magnets in the Guarder motor have turned to dust, so I can't just replace the pinion. The plastic spring guide washer is chewed up pretty good. So, I ordered: Guarder stainless cylinder head and fresh "Sorbo" pad ASG Infinity CNC U-45000 long type motor Matrix 6mm metal bushings Lonex aluminum shroom piston head (The full metal rack deep fire piston head I have currently doesn't have a one way valve or any seal ports for that matter.) Lonex spring guide with ball bearing The lot comes in this weekend, but I can't post videos of results until I get a place with an internet service that's free of data limits. I'll post a general summary though.
  13. <AT>renegadecow You start saying that it's better to buy a gun and swap a hopup, then contradict your argument with, "If you want an out of the box DMR, it will have to be custom made for you." So which is it, change a couple parts or build from scratch?
  14. I am not a regular at their field yet, so they told me that any guns I consider bringing must follow their general public rules. So, you would argue towards building from scratch parts over upgrading a base gun? Or do you see one of the remaining options as only in need of simple tweaks like some Teflon sealing and hopup alternatives?
  15. I'm curious if it's possible to obtain a gun that requires little modification, don't know why I have to repeat that. Why buy $200-$400 worth of assembled parts if everyone believes the parts are useless? If it is a better option to build from scratch like a gaming computer, I'd like to know. This is the reason of this thread: To find out if there are any guns on the market actually worth buying for a DMR. With regard to just changing the spring in the Echo 1, yes that is an option. The reason I'm looking for out the box SA, is any gun with full auto option on selector switch is deemed a full auto gun at this field.
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