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jimbibblo

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About jimbibblo

  • Rank
    ASF Citizen
  • Birthday 08/18/1917

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Zimbabwe
  • Interests
    being #1 dog in Harare, Zimbabwe

Previous Fields

  • My Temperament:
    Egg
  • Airsoft Replicas Owned
    Rewired Crosman R71, CM048 AK74 with stained wood, Cyma RPK74, TM PC359 aep, Ltac AK74u, Unknown fullmetal black AK47 and a Dboys M16A2(advertized as the a4 but the barrel length is bullshît)
  1. Ok, here let me reword my question, what would the cheapest possible way be to hit the 280-340 ft range accurately be, I already know that theres the flat hop, heavier bb weights, bb weight calculator, barrel width, bucking types, compression mods, bb brands and all that but what im asking for is what kinds of internals should I get to get that range and is my 6.06 ok to use a flat hop with because im not sure about the hopup window or any of these things. So can you use your magical mechanic powers to help me achieve my hopes and dreams mr gugeman. Its almost like you give up on me every time we talk and it hurts.
  2. Just look at a dmr guide or two and do what you can to it lol.
  3. I'd go with the vz.61. But I would say you'd probably be better off with a small aeg instead of an aep simply because their just so much cheaper and usually more reliable so I'd reccomend a 90-130$ gun and a good widebore for lower fps if its running too hot lol. I used to run a lancer tactical 74u but im not sure about it in terms of reliability so I'd just go with a cyma like: http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=10716 97 bucks or http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=5563 if youd like to put the money into it. Honestly if you want a good reliable build you need to spend a little over 100 minimum. If your going for usability and price I'd go with the beta spetznaz, if your going for looks and not price I'd go with the 74u with wood. the spetznaz has a tiny mag so its kind of a fix for the issue with going prone with the ak, it also makes it really really handy. The polymer is railed so you can put all kinds of shît on it aswell and its already cqb ready as its fps is 340-360. And in case you get a lemon as cymas have amazing aegs and really bad lemons at the I'd return it and get a new one if it has any serious issues within 15 days of use if I were you lol. I've had amazing and god awful aegs from cyma and thats what I did to solve that problem. also why would you need anything but .20s for cqb as that shîts really close up. And even though lancer tactical makes some very light guns(mine is 3.2 pounds) Their not as reliable as youd think they would be so I'd start out with a cyma as their the kings of low price aegs lol. You do know that a .25 is faster than a .20 because of momentum at ranges alot farther than cqb distances so I highly doubt youd want a super slow bb like that especially in a place where youd need that velocity to hit first lol. Also, you don't neet to buy anything for cqb except that wierd strobe light but I'd favor stealth instead of having something that says hey, im right here, shoot at this bright light. I'd just rather go for the lightest weight possible with good balancing instead of putting alot of pointless things on it like a red dot or a laser(although I would absolutely love to get three lasers and go out predator style, I don't have the money for it and I doubt its that much of an upgrade and instead more like a way to say "Hey guys shoot at me!") Just run with iron sights, goggles and a halfmask and your gun with a normal 8.4(LiPos break your gun if its above 20c and/or 7.4v and you don't get much of an advantage either way)
  4. E&L or that other brand whos name I forgot that has cheaper externals but the same internals as the E&L or something like that.
  5. I really wonder what the difference between a battery that has a lower voltage but the same CC rating as a higher voltage one with the same discharge rate. Do I need a mosfet for a 7.4 30c in my gun the same way I would with a 9.6 or a 10.8(I think that would be the equivalent of the 30c 7.4) or because its a lower voltage could I just gun it? And if one of my guns has a mosfet rated for a 9.6, would that LiPo be a good idea, also my ak has a fuse instead of a mosfet lol.
  6. Wwhat if thats not the problem with it then? Then what lol
  7. its the 6.06 miracle barrel, its usally listed as the magic box barrel so I thought I'd call it that. "Magic Box Next Generation Miracle TOT AEG Inner Barrel for M14 (500mm)" But seriously, what would I need to pull off an m150 build? Do I need to use my stock gears that pull m100s or do I get some that say that they are rated for m150s? What do I need to replace? Also, there are no venues in my part of florida that have a working chronograph or pstar users that don't ramp up their fps to 550 or some shît, there is no limit at my backwater redneck "field". We have guys running at 550 fps with .32s, telling the refs about it and even though they say the limit is 400 with .20s the refs don't even care, I don't either though as fps limits are really just a crutch lol.
  8. so what would I need for an m150 build if I wanted to go as cheap as possible without having super awful parts?
  9. if you blew 50 bucks on a burst wizard to use as a mosfet and got an 11.1 30c in an aep like a cyma glock would it work well and not explode sending shrapnel into your brain? So far I see more people doing that than using the stock 7.2v NiMHs on youtube. Also any tips on converting a TM from AAA power to NiMh power? It has an input of 6v so it could be very easy finding a 5 cell nimh but ive spent hours trying to wire the damn thing to it with no success, is there a better way?
  10. My Lancer Tactical 74u broke and it sounds like a pencil sharpener, what would the problem be. Do I need to get some shims to fix the AoE and/or are my gears stripped. The gun shoots but it sounds like it could break any second and it makes a motor noise like the gears aren't touching properly so it might be stripped or it might be the AoE. And it doesnt shoot instantly, it sounds like its doing a burnout and it starts shooting after 1-3 secs, possibly because its absolutely nuked internally. Basically my 90 dollar gun finally broke but I'm still planning on using it as a sidearm for my future dmr. And if I want to replace the gears and reshim, should I be using SHS gears like http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/356-shs-low-noise-high-speed-reinforced-steel-straight-cut-161-gear-set.aspx or https://www.amazon.com/SHS-Airsoft-32-Infinite-Torque/dp/B0051P3X1W/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1473094318&sr=8-4&keywords=airsoft+shs+gear+set I know torque gears are a thing of the past but my gun is lacking in fps quite badly lol (chronos at 330 and I don't have any m100s on hand to replace it, just a 130 that I bought a while ago lol)
  11. get some high discharge low voltage LiPo and your gun wont catch on fire. Also to get the same RoF as a gun with a m120 with an 8.4 you could use a 45c 11.1 with your gun that has an m150. Trust me RoF and trigger response doesnt matter when you have something as beastly as that lol youll probably get slightly better compression with the higher discharge rate but your still running with gears n in there and it isnt indestructable lol so I'd stick with a low voltage or get a mosfet like a burst wizard or something. Thats my two cents though
  12. E&L AK74? or just get a broke :censored2: boneyard gun and make a gun to your specifications by spending money on the parts and doing some research.
  13. Im using a cyma metal v3 gearbox what would I need to do to it to make it be able to take an m190. I think I would need to replace the piston, gears, nozzle, spring obviously, mosfet, spring guide, compression mods, maybe a bore up kit because id be using a 6.06x509mm magic box wbb, h hop, a mod to put it on semi only and some shims to try and perfect the aoe. What am I missing from this list, what do I not need to replace and if I am wrong on something, how wrong am I on it? So if I were to pick out a bunch of parts, what would be within a 200$ budget? And if this isnt possible, then could I upgrade to a 150 instead and be within that budget?
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