Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Kingmaker

  • Rank
    ASF Immigrant
  1. You can grind some of the internal face of the gearbox case so the bearing bush is sitting deeper into its location hole ,also you could grind some of the face of the bushing to if you were accurate when you do it. Also push the pinion further down the shaft,that will create more gap from the bevel gear.
  2. Hi after some experimentation I managed to get rid of the horrible noise from the bevel and pinion.Firstly the positive motor wire was over long and more carefull positioning of this wire seemed to improve the way it affected the way it pushes against the side if the motor body and also the inside of the grip end cover,Idealy I would shorten the wire but its not my gun. This grip end cover is very different on a vfc to any other TM spec part,there is the recess in the centre that locates the end of the motor,joining the recess is a wall or web about 2 mm wide,that is pressing on the motor wires,thare is a visible marking on the wire,I filed some of the web away to make more room for the wire. So basicaly the motor can now sit naturally and has improved gear mesh
  3. I was wondering what is is different about the maple leaf bucking,my friend paid to have one fitted,it looks like a standard design Hop rubber to me.it has been installed with a bridge nub,I thought you were suposed to use a staight chamber rubber with those. Does one of the maple leaf rubbers have a intenal doulbe contact mound like a firefly rubber,I have a cyma 'firefly' copy it came with a cyma hop chamber I bought,you cant buy the rubber on its own,I think its very good.I know that falcon do a bouble point contact rubber,are there any others. On the market
  4. In the UK we can only have 350fps so Marui motors are good for me,and I think they run for a long time without performance or reliability Problems.I know they are old fashioned,but I only run fairly standard but efficient and reliable set ups. Also all the good qualty neo motors are expensive,this boy is only 13,and I have now established that the replacement motor is now completely screwed,so I am talking him into an SHS neo torque motor from KH mountain on Ebay,altough I am not sure it is the real thing as it is at least £10-15 cheaper than all the other SHS neo motors. Also can't understand why this gun has gone through 2 motors so quickly,only a few thousand rounds through this gun from new.
  5. Hi yes its a clear blue piston,stock vfc,I assumed all transparent pistons were polycarbonate and quite hard but brittle,and so crack. Thats what hapened to me quite quickly when I used polycarbonate. I was looking at it thinking that needs to go but its not a priority. I have a JG gun with a blue motor,will try that,but I cant get the spare AK motor to loose electrical contact like the motor fited to fitted to the vfc gerbox,thats just running the motor outside the gun.. I would get a marui motor as I think they perform well and last a long time but its out of stock where I usualy buy it for a good price.
  6. The fps may be lower when you buy the gun,sometimes you can max out you hop adjustment and loose up to 10fps,they may check the bb's aren't going skywards,some may frown on this practice as a potential safety issue. Also this gun has a quick change spring I have heard but you do have to take the gearbox out of the receiver. You could cut the spring each coil is about 10fps although most consider it more professional to fit a lower rated spring so the end of the coil is finished correctly rather than a jagged spike you get if you cut it. In my opinion if you can only afford to shoot up to 0.25g ammo there is not any advantage to shoot over 370-380 it just makes the sport more dangerous.
  7. Before splitting the gearbox,I noticed the spring was not working on the AR latch,may have come unhooked when the lad tried to release the latch to see if it cycle again. I opened the gearbox and noticed one of the contacts on the trigger switch seemed shorter and damaged,this also seemed less springy than the contact on the other side,I decided to repair the contact with some brass strip and soldering iron. The motor very rarely seems to turn when the trigger is pulled,this is with the motor outside the gearbox,a spare AK motor works every time,after I spent alot of time checking the wiring for possible bad connections,the motor may be dodgy although it seems unlikely that this is 2 motors fitted to this gun with intermittent connetcion At first I was sure it was the trigger contact,I will take the correct type motor out of another gun and try that. Also the cylinder has this lucid chrome coating,same as on guarder,this allways seems very soft,in this case it has started to peel of in large patches,so that will cause bad compression or even pump debry into the barrel,so that didn't impress me.This has been replaced. I also removed the spring shims as this is one on the features I don't seem to trust although some people seem to like it. On the spur gear I built up some 1 mm thick washers until the clearance was good,then I measured the stack of washers with my digital Caliper and this reading was 7.5mm.These wachers are just to determine the gap. Then I machined a steel bush on my centre lathe,3mm through hole,8mm outside diameter,and 7.2 mm long,I then used a normal shim to get the corect clearance. On the sector gear I tried normal .5 mm shims to replace the spring,but they did not clear the tappet plate fin and stopped it coming all the way forward. I then made another bush dia 6mm , 3mm hole, and 2.5 mm thick,I then machined a step in it so it was a top hat shape,this was 4mm diameter and 1.5 mm long,this step clears the tappet plate.
  8. Ok thanks for the advice and help really apreciate it. Got the motor tab repaired,the motor tried to turn the gearbox and then it just stopped,did'nt sound normal. Released the motor base plate,motor had no contact,put a multi meter on the deans conector,the triggerswitch seems to now make no electrical Contact. So the strip down I was trying to avoid is needed.
  9. Well the boy had a mew 8.4 NIMH,,then it had the new motor,then he fitted deans connectors,all connections seem good When I tested it I used my own LIpo's ,so the problem persists with various components swapped or permanently changed. I thought the spring shims may be binding up and then maybe releasing the tension by movement of the gearbox..its just I have heard Self shimming is not a desirable set up,assuming they are fitted to this gun.obviously thats just a theory,I am trying to talk him into a high torque motor.He doesn't seem keen. I have seen a SHS ht motor on eBay from KH Mountain,I know people in USA buy from this company.IT is only £24 inc. postage,I am suspicious it is a fake, normally this is £10-15 more ,and also read reviews that they get hot and use a lot of power,so I am not sure it is the correct choice.
  10. My my sons freind,age 13 bought a VFC HK416,after a few thousand rounds the gearbox stopped working. I had a look and his motor seemed to be working but would not cycle all the time with motor installed,I popped the AR latch,it seemed to need 2 or 3 pulls on it to make the nozzle come fully forward. I went through the jammed gearbox,pop AR and working again several times.one time I left it not working on my bench ,went to it next morning and it would just start to work again. I told him I thought the gearbox may be tight ,and to get it fixed under guarantee. However he took it to the club expert gun fixer,who relieved him of some cash for a cheap no name motor with instant snap off wire connector tabs.That was all he did,I did not agree that this was the problem. To make it worse the pinion wont mesh with the bevel gear so it makes a space ship type screaching Sound when you are on full auto,it also jams randomly still. Now he wants me to fix it,and gave me a box of bits,the gearbox still has the factory seal on it. I was just wondering if I should just get rid of the self shimming gears,and just shim them solidly in the normal way.From what I have seen on youtube I need to make an extra thick shim on the lathe to get rid of the Spring shims,rather than build up loads of thin ones . Does anybody think the self shimming is the cause of this random jamming.
  • Create New...