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olympic

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About olympic

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  1. The box is blue. I don't know who JP is, but it's referenced in other SIG556 posts on the forum. My luck with a previous CYMA M4 as you may recall was less than stellar. Anyhow, given that it is a CYMA version thoughts on this gun? Can't find a lot about it. CYMA v3 gearboxes seem pretty well proven with their AKs. Concerns with it sitting for a few years?
  2. A local airsofter that hasn't played in awhile is selling off his stock Cybergun SIG556. It's been sitting for a few years. Says it always worked great for him and is bone stock. I like the look of the SIG556 but am a bit leary of Cybergun and the fact it's been sitting unused for awhile. I searched the forum looking for info on this gun but not a lot of info out there. Seemed to be conflicting reports of which manufacturer actually produced the gun, JP or CYMA. I couldn't find anything definitive. Concerns with this gun? Concerns with it sitting for a few years? My other option is to wait and save some $ and look for something new. Doesn't have to be a SIG556 it's just a bit different than what you usually see out at the fields. I also like the look of the longer barrels such as SPR M4. I have all M4's so nice to re-use M4 mags.
  3. Okay thanks. I'll just plan on rewriting it. Does the trigger situation I described sound like someone tried to mod it or does it sound like maybe something is broken? Given the trigger and wiring seems like it might be easiest to just replace that lower gearbox given the option of new ones with front wiring being available for $26.
  4. Please see attached. One really shows how the wires are smashed where they come out of the gearbox. The blue tape you see is electrical tape. I tossed it in there as a quick fix while testing to cover the frayed wires so they wouldn't short out while testing. I know it needs new wiring here. With the trigger issues my plan here is to put a new lower gearbox in it and wiring. Available on the big auction site for $26 shipped. Seems tough to beat since it includes new front wiring and the lower gearbox. My concern then is getting those wires routed properly through the magwell. It seems they should be higher up along the sides. I think they should be tucked up higher along the sides.
  5. Okay I didn't realize that. I have a couple of other v2 long motors so maybe will try one. I was under the impression the pinion gear was different in the ICS. Any thoughts on the issues I listed out? Thanks!
  6. Yeah it has a split gearbox and is definitely ICS. Regarding the motor - read somewhere that ICS motors are a bit different (something about the pinion gear) so didn't think I could just pop another v2 long motor in to test if the motor might be having issues. Is that the case?
  7. I picked up a boneyard full metal M&P 15 ICS M4. It was missing a hop-up and the wiring looked spotty. I purchased a new hopup unit and got that installed. The gun appears to be stock otherwise and has the ICS Turbo 3000 motor. I'm having a few issues here: 1) The trigger has either been modified or has issues. If I pull fully back in semi auto it doesn't come back forward after the shot, have to flick it back forward. If I do a partial pull in semi it shoots full auto. Does this sound like a broken trigger post or something else? Full auto works as expected. 2) The gun usually doesn't want to feed. The issue may be due to the fact that the wires running to the front are down in the magwell a bit due to the ICS design and they might be keeping mags from clipping in as well as they should. I've gotten it to feed a couple of times but that has been rare, generally I do not have success with getting it to feed. Also if I pull the mag out when not successfully feeding no bbs drop which tells me it doesn't seem to be engaging well enough to feed bbs up. I've tried different mags to rule out the mag. Does this sound like an issue with the hopup or with the wires not allowing mags to seat up as high as they should? 3) The wiring is getting pinched out of the front of the lower gearbox pretty badly. Also through the front delta ring. I am curious to hear from others with a front wired ICS how they are keeping the wires from being pinched out of the front gearbox and also routing high enough inside the magwell to not interfere with the mags. 4) Sometimes the trigger will pull and nothing will happen or you kind of feel and hear a bit of a thump but that's it. I notice the wiring gets warm when I check it after this happens. If I separate the top from the bottom receiver I can get the gears to spin with a trigger pull most times. Sometimes not and then a bit of turning it on it's side or such will then get it functioning again. I'm wondering if trigger contacts might be bad too or if it's just some faulty wiring. Once the fuse blew on me. It has a 30amp fuse in it. Yeah that is a lot and I'm still pretty new to this but learning. I was thinking about rewiring it but am concerned with how the wires should be properly routed out of the gearbox and up through the magwell area. Pics of the magwell of others with a front wired ICS M4 would be helpful. I'm pondering the purchase of a new lower gearbox with front wiring to address the wiring and trigger issues but am concerned about routing the wiring to keep it from getting pinched and interfering with the magwell and putting me right back in the same place I am now. I am just not sure if the wiring is interfering with the mags enough to cause the feeding issue. I did make sure the hop-up allows a bb to drop through it with no issue, and putting a bb in from the back it only takes light pressure to push it through so the hopup and bucking seem to be good in that sense. Thanks in advance for any advice/guidance.
  8. The end of the bucking where it tapers down - the more closed end of the bucking that ends up at the end of the barrel. Those stuck out just a hair further than the other buckings. The maple leaf fit in another gun with no issue, but for some reason with the G&G it was just a tad long and the bb would hang up in the hop-up unit. Yeah I realize that the distance on the G&G is now comparable to what I have on some of my other guns that have a bit more fps, but for some reason even with the G&G green bucking it would only go about 120ft. Doing this old school flat hop still resulted in distance gains over what I had before. Is the ML AST nub decent for use as a flat hop nub or are there some other preferred ones that can be easily used that don't require modification of the hop-up arm/unit? For some reason just couldn't get that ML nub to play nicely. I'm sure the bucking factors in too and this bucking in there right now is thin and soft.
  9. I wanted to post a follow up on this with some of my findings. I tried the Maple Leaf 75 bucking along with the Maple Leaf AST nub but the bucking lips were too long for my setup so it didn't feed properly (doing what I call the drop test the bb's would hang up in the hop-up unit). So, I put the G&G green bucking in and it fit properly, still using the ML AST nub. However, I didn't get much of an improvement in range, perhaps 10' or so. I decided to try my hand at doing a flat hop and took the original bucking that was in the gun (not sure what it is...thin and very soft compared to the maple leaf or g&g green), turned it inside out and sanded down the ridge and the mound, turned it rightside out and reinstalled 90 degrees off of where it would normally be installed. Staying with the Maple Leaf AST nub I could tell that it was an improvement but couldn't get the hop-up set. Would either dive down or sail with no happy medium. For grins I changed the nub to the cylindrical nub that came with the G&G green and wow what a difference. Staying with the flat bucking and using the G&G nub added an easy 50 ft plus to my distance. I can reach out to 160 ft with reasonable accuracy now. This gun is a stock G&G shooting about 330 fps. I would have thought that a nub like the ML AST would have performed better than the G&G round nub with a flat bucking. Most flat hop write-ups I've seen people shave/sand down the bucking and then swap out the nub to one that has a flat contact patch vs round. So my question to those with more experience is whether a standard cylindrical style nub will usually work well with a flat/shaved bucking, or if my situation is unusual. Many flat-hop write-ups I've seen show purchasing a special flat hop nub or making your own and potentially having to modify the hop-up arm/unit to accommodate the flat hop style nub. Perhaps there is even more potential if one can get the nub right, but this has be wondering if I should consider shaving down buckings for my other guns and trying them with their stock nubs to see if I can get some increased range without having to swap out the nubs too.
  10. Okay, that would be something easy to try. Sure I'll take one. Please send me an invoice and I'll send you the $. Thanks!
  11. Okay sounds good and thanks for your time. I'll try to get it tested out here this weekend and will report back. Something else I notice about the CYMA M4 is that it also seems to dry or blank fire about every other BB. It's better in full auto, still some mixed in, but semi has lots of dry fires. And, that is with a good mid-cap. I'll try a topped off high cap here when doing the motor test.
  12. I don't have a spare one laying around but I suppose I could take one out of one of my other guns as a test. If I end up having to buy a motor, thoughts on a replacement? Also seems odd that the FPS is only 320 when it was supposedly 430 out of the box. The gun is supposed to be 400-420 fps I believe out of the box. I understand that they all vary. Perhaps that initial fps read was off or it really did drop 100 fps. The low fps plus the semi-auto seizure from time to time and what feels like a lower battery condition when it's not all has me wondering a bit about what is up with it.
  13. Yeah, makes sense. I picked up a new CYMA M4 a couple weeks back that someone got in a box of awesomeness that they didn't want so I purchased it from him. It chrono'd at 430 at the field so didn't use it. I compressed the spring for a week. I just ran it through this chrono and it's only showing about 320. That seems odd. But, I now trust te chrono as the two "baseline" guns just went through at 370 and 395 which is about where they should be. So, need to figure out why the CYMA shooting so low on the fps. I notice that it seems to need pretty good battery power to fire it as well for some reason. Seems to get that semi-auto seizure frequently where I switch to full to clear it. Acts a bit like battery low when it's not. Been using a 7.4 lipo here for it which I would think would be enough for a stock CYMA M4.
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