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Hangtight last won the day on July 24 2017

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About Hangtight

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  1. VFC & G&P receivers are nice. Everything else can be changed so 'nice' depends on how much money you want to spend. But as a rule the rail, stock etc that higher end guns come fitted with are generally very good. Asking which M4 has the 'best' externals is a bit like asking, "Which car looks best...". You need to decide what 'best' means before it has any significance.
  2. Use shims on the rear of the gearbox to prevent the front of the gearbox tipping up as you tighten the buffer tube screw. If you remove the barrel and hop then look down the outer barrel with the bolt cover open, you should see the air nozzle exactly central with the outer barrel. Find an O ring that fits over the barrel and push it right up to the hop up. Use a razor blade to cut it to about half thickness. This will push the hop against the gearbox. It might take a couple of attempts to get just right, but it's much better than the little spring that's supposed to do the job. If your gearbox is 'reinforced' with the pointless lump of metal around the spur gear you won't be able to fit low ratio gears. But this is nothing that can't be fixed in five minutes with a Dremel.
  3. If you're using pre cocking then the BB is on its way as soon as you pull the trigger, after which the gearbox will cycle and pull the piston back for the next shot. On 7.4v, 16TPA motor and stock gears the gearbox will still cycle faster than you can pull the trigger, but it'll sound and feel better with the 12:1 gears. Pre cocking shouldn't increase the wear on any components as long as they aren't overstressed, as all the gun is doing is supporting a static load until the next time you pull the trigger. With the Titan you turn the pre cocking on and off via a trigger pull and moving the selector, so it's easy to turn it off at breaks or the end of the day and fire a shot to release the spring tension for storage.
  4. Absolutely. 16TPA and 12:1 will pull a 120 no problem, as long as the battery can supply the current. If it's well shimmed it should be around 20A continuous, but start up current could be as high as 80A. That why motors get hotter if you're shooting a lot of semi auto as you're starting the motor from stationary with every shot.
  5. With standard gears you'll still be hitting 40rps, but the M120 spring together with losing a bit of weight out of the piston (take the bearing out and replace with a lightweight plastic spacer) should see you the right side of pre engagement. The M120 will put you at around 400fps though, but you can bring the FPS down by short stroking the piston. This involves removing teeth off the pickup side of the sector gear so it doesn't pull the piston back as far. Three teeth should bring you back down to about 350fps. It'll still be inefficient firing semi auto though, and I suspect the motor will get uncomfortably hot after only a moderate number of shots. The Titan is designed for lipo, and from memory the number of buzzes when you plug the battery in is it telling you how many battery cells it thinks are detected. If you plug in a 9.6v NiMh the Titan will think it's seeing an 11.1v lipo, but if the voltage is below the cut off threshold it won't fire as it's designed to protect lipos from over discharging.
  6. On an M100 spring the maximum ROF you can achieve with a full piston stroke is around 30rps. Beyond that the piston doesn't have time to complete it's stroke before the sector gear comes around again for its next cycle. That's pre engagement and it destroys pistons and smashes teeth off gears. With that motor you'd need to go back to the standard gears and run 7.4v which would give 25rps,but if you're intending to use mainly semi auto that'll heat up the motor really quick. If you want good semi auto performance then go with my suggestion of 16TPA balanced motor on 7.4v, the 12:1 gears, your M100 spring and have the pre cocking turned on in the Titan. I run that set up but with 13:1 gears in a couple of my guns and it rocks as well as being reliable.
  7. That combination of motor, gearing and battery are going to try and do almost 60 rounds a second. On an M100 spring you'll hit pre engagement at about 30rps. On that gearing a 16TPA balanced motor (30k) and 7.4v lipo will get you a solid 25 rps with no danger of pre engagement on that spring. That'll also get great trigger response, but to get instant trigger response you use the pre cocking function on the Titan.
  8. Don't do what's not necessary. Although it's possible to lighten a piston and retain the strength required to do the job, it's only really needed for more extreme rates of fire. In fact a lighter piston is bad for efficiency, so you want the heaviest piston that's consistent with the cycle speed. A typical DSG has enough cylinder compression to support a barrel about 200mm long. If the barrel is any longer then there is no air pressure to continue pushing the BB and it then becomes a piston in the bore with potentially negative pressure behind it actively slowing it down. With no air pressure to provide the air 'cushion' around the BB it will also be more influenced by the bore quality which might have an effect on accuracy. SHS have recently had some quality control issues, which is why I suggested the ZCI 16TPA motor. If you feel like spending a bit more then the new ASG Boost 30k is excellent.
  9. On 11.1v 22TPA will give you 40+rps (ZCI Torque $30), or 16TPA will give you 45+rps (ZCI balanced $30). At those speeds there should be no reason to lighten the piston any more than taking the bearing out and replacing it with a light plastic spacer.
  10. Make sure you understand about the function of the barrel crown before you cut the barrel.
  11. It gets wider with experience! But the margins for error get a lot narrower as rps goes up, the same as trying to extract the maximum performance out of anything.
  12. 45rps and 330-340fps is completely doable without costing much. Mine is built out of bits left over from other guns and a SHS DSG and is reliable and fun.
  13. Go for 200mm as that will work well with the swept cylinder volume you'll achieve with a DSG. Anything longer and you're just not going to be able to move enough air.
  14. Mechanically that's not much difference between SSG and DSG, but once the sector gear starts spinning much faster than 30 revolutions per second then the margins between the time it takes for the piston to complete its stroke, the gearbox to cycle, between a component being strong /light enough becomes almost non existent in some cases and it becomes a juggling act between speed, spring, stroke, weight and strength. A 40rps DSG isn't really much more stressed than a 25rps SSG in some respects, but a 45 rps SSG is walking a fine line between success and failure. If you want to get close to that line then you have to kind if sneak up on it, know when you've crossed it and then go back a step.
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