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About RenegadeFunNoodle

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    ASF Immigrant
  • Birthday May 12

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    VFC HK416c
    KWA Kriss Vector
    KWA ATP Gen. 1
    WE M1911 SOCOM Desert Warrior
  1. Well it must be the gearbox combo with the gears because any less and there's a ridiculous amount of play. the other end of the gear needed a lot more than that to hold it in place. I figured it was overkill but at the same time it should be held in place, no? If I go any lower with the bevel shim, again, it will be too far away and have too much play. Even through all that the gear spins freely with with little to no resistance. This whole charade is killing me
  2. .35 mm and very little play with the pinion but enough to ensure its not being forced up against it. I've checked everything I could think of, I'm at a loss for words.
  3. Of course, greased everything with white lithium grease and compression parts with silicone oil after too.
  4. So when reassembling my gearbox, I looked at every possible reason I could assume that was keeping the air nozzle from reaching it's point but the thing is everything that affects the nozzle is stock. The parts I am referring to are the tappet plate, the sector delay chip, the nozzle, and hop-up unit which is why I am so lost. I checked the articulation of the tappet around the sector delay chip and gear by hand. The tappet moves from the very farthest forward position to the farthest back it could possibly sit as the gear turns. The motor, I have no idea, it just doesn't make any sense. I can turn the gears by hand with ease from the outside of the shell with the GB closed and only the tappet and spring, piston and cylinder, and all three gears in place...everything moves smoothly. The SHS tappet was creating a huge amount of resistance but the stock one does not which is what I am using now. The grip is the stock HK416 VFc grip and does not rest against the body of the gun which lets me safely assume the motor/pinion is sitting exactly where I want it against the bevel (because I shimmed from bevel checking with the half-shell/grip method and the full shell and grip method.) I was going to use a regular multimeter but mine only works to 10 amps and the closest hobby shop is an hour away to get one of the in-line RC readers. Luckily, the Titan actually tells yout the average amp draw in semi and auto as well as the peak. Thats where I got the 46 amps in semi and peak 100 amps. I am so confused man.... so confused..... Update: perfect hop up seal led to 50fps increase lol.... 280 now. Will re-check piston-cylinder-cylinder head-nozzle etc etc seal
  5. I'm starting to run out of ideas. Even with my examining and time put into these problems, the solutions still elude me.... GB compression is perfect and the air nozzle extends just fine (although it doesn't seem to touch the bucking...then again I don't think it ever did in the first place) and feeds well now but sill 230 fps. NO idea. I teflon taped the whole bucking but air is definitely coming out of the mag feed. I'm confused because this is with the same air nozzle, tappet plate, and hop-up unit that came stock on the gun....I'm getting a new bucking and unit soon hopefully that will solve the issue. Maybe a slightly longer nozzle and sanding the tappet might work instead? On the other hand, my motor is using an average of 46 amps on semi and 42 on auto with a supposed peak of 100 amps. Just peachy if you ask me. I checked everything for resistance of which there was none, and my motor height is perfect with the bevel and I know it's sitting straight in the grip. I'm completely lost on this one too. What else could be causing such an incredible load on the motor? It's a torque-y motor and I'm only running an m120 with the 13:1's ....there's no way it should require so much power. pls help, my research leads me nowhere at this point
  6. So I changed my bucking, taped it off with teflon, and yeah I tested it and it's blowing air out the bottom. Same FPS after that little mod... I have no idea what could be causing it to leak out that way because it's the same air nozzle I had stock? Also I'll have to use a multimeter tomorrow to check that amp draw. If it's working too hard what could be the cause? I have it shimmed so all the gears spin pretty damn freely and the piston sides are greased up... I dunno what else could be the cause?
  7. Thanks for checkin in hangtight. It was blue but I cleaned every last contact and let it sit over night and all is good now. Got everything together and set today, process was easier than I was expecting but I'm glad to have my HK in one piece again. I don't have my 7.4v lipos in yet so I used 11.1's and holy cow. Only 35 RPS but I'm starting to think it's a total overkill... My mags definitely can't keep up with it so I'll have to see what works best. On the other end, it only chrono's at 230 fps... It was shooting 350 before I took it apart so I'm assuming compression was okay in the hop-up before but maybe something changed? I know compression in the GB is good because I lubed it all up and keeping my finger over the air nozzle will make the piston stay back until I release...also using an m120... Guess more parts comin' soon! Last but not least, HangTight I took your advice about using an ASG 30k because my local shop had one and I figured it'd be a good investment and it's fantastic but it gets incredibly hot very fast although with 7.4's it should be fine. oh and not to mention the newly found grey dust coating it and the inside of my grip now haha.. Destroyed the shaft on my A2 trying to replace the pinion so that's out of the picture.
  8. All right guys, got all of my parts in, got the dirty work like aoe and shimming done, everything fits like a charm and I was pumped to get it shooting tonight until I got to the Gate Titan. I got it all set up and just as I was going to test the sensors, the Tactical Programing Card continues to blink when I connect the Titan. The manual says this mean the Titan is not connected. Same thing happens with the Titan on the Control Station software. Worst part is their e-mail customer support supposedly sucks and the only time their Support phone lines are open is about midnight to 7am my time so that's going to be a pain. This 150 dollar brick in my gun is really getting the best of me as I can't find ANYTHING online. What the hell. I would really appreciate any help with the Titan if any of you peeps have experience with it.
  9. All right peeps, thank you all for the incredibly helpful advice!! Also good luck Guges and Hangtight, sounds like a good weekend to me. After a short absence I have caved and purchased my parts. Only alterations to the original list are 13.65:1 SHS gears instead of 12:1's, a 7.4v 30c/50c LiPo (which was fit with my math and Hangtight's excellent recommendation), and staying with my Lonex A2 although I've read its apparently both a 15TPA and a 16TPA armature. -_____- Anyway, I'll be updating this when parts arrive in a few days and use it to keep track of my build if anyone is interested in the very first high-speed/trigger response build known to the world of AEG's. Wish me luck.
  10. Okay so the advice from your past experience doing what I was aiming for helps a lot... but from your parts list I have picked out many similar parts and what I'm picking up is that an 11.1 is out of the picture and a 7.4 with 30c/50c discharge would be perfect and result in better longevity of the gearbox? (I'm assuming that is so because of the huge discharge rate for trigger response yet slower ROF) If so, I'm all about that haha. Especially when that means my 11.1's would still yield stupid a ROF. Although I am quite partial to being able to shove a single 11.1 1200mah battery down my buffer tube and still use my CTR stock... Also, what did you mean by a full A2 stock with the bigger battery? Is that in reference to the motor and simply a larger 7.4? On top of that, you're not running two 7.4's in parallel are you??
  11. You are a true legend, Hangtight. Thank you so much for taking the time to help me out with probably the millionth high-speed build around. Allow me to address your comment as best as I can. I feel very confident I can perform 97% of the tasks required to pull this off and am more than ready for the challenge. My biggest fear is reliability and I know, I know- I shouldn't be expecting that on (especially) my first 'true' high speed build although I'll do anything I can to make it last. I'm cool with the titan cause hell, why not? Check out them features yo! Never even thought something like that would exist years ago! I know the wires will be sufficient for the batteries and motor. I will definitely use your trick with bullet connectors, that's pure genius. Deans, already there batteries and FET. My 16:1's were thrown in there for fun with a lame shim job, no AOE (destroyed my crap VFC piston too), and was on stock wiring which I believe was 18ga? Not to mention how gnarly the gearbox was, filled with grease and other junk. So yeah plenty of points I could've improved upon but I was happy with where it was knowing I wouldn't be airsofting much longer. (Long time ago...) I plan on polishing everything, hooking up new Deans, shimming to the best of my abilities not to mention motor height of course, AOE, and swiss cheesing as necessary with the pom lonex piston head on top. I will definitely use your aforementioned techniques to get better results. I did the math and with the 13.65:1 ratio on my battery, etc,etc, I had a result of anywhere between 36-44 rps considering how efficient my battery/wiring will be. Referencing the build you said you tore apart, that's my ultimate goal as insensible as it may be. :D I've planned out for an SHS 16 TPA motor and the stronger 15t shs piston which shouldn't be a challenge stroking the teeth and swiss cheesing. Again I'm hoping for the build to last a while as I never planned on running around with a BB hose to be quite honest. If anything this could be more of a "trigger response build" if you could call it that. With everything said and done which I am totally prepared for, I just can't wrap my head around the battery stuff. I never quite understood the amp ratings on LiPo's with the C's and discharge rates and so on. I'm hoping my 20c 11.1 will be okay but I'm also not looking for my buttstock to light on fire anytime soon! On top of that, you're talking about changing springs... wouldn't I be able to stick with an m120 and call it a day? I'm sure it can't be all too heavy with a lightened piston and pom piston head.... right?? Tl;Dr: My battery isn't good enough I'm assuming. Can I keep the 11.1 or will I simply need one with the right c rating and higher MAh rating? Also, do I REALLY need that fast of a piston return rate.....? Stroking my sector gear and raising the spring strength on top of a lightened piston and head?? Edit: Couldn't I just remove a tooth or two from the front of the piston to lower fps?
  12. Wow man this was incredibly helpful, I've never seen these before. Answers a lot of questions.
  13. I had 16:1 gears with the lonex and an 11.1 and only reached about 26 rps, how do you figure 31rps with 18:1's? I know my wiring wasn't able to keep up too well being that it was a smaller gauge (and without a fet I fried the trigger contacts lol although that was foreseen) but I mean 31 on stock gears??? What am I missing? I'd really like to keep a reliable 35 rps and don't mind swapping a motor, didn't know the lonex motors ran so hot, I've yet to figure that out and I guess I'll have to swap that out. Any 16TPA recommendations? Back to my power system, I'm confident the Titan will be able to provide the power needed from the battery to the motor. So keeping with an m110, 13:1 gears, the lonex, and an 11.1, I'll be seeing what I'm looking for, around 35rps, no?
  14. Pretty impressive! My vfc with an 11.1 lipo and 16:1's shot 26rps and I dunno, it just didn't feel fast enough (even though it's obviously plenty haha). It is way more than enough but I just want something ridiculous I can call my own from the ground up!
  15. Okay this helps a lot. I'll start off by saying that rps is not my main goal. I was hoping to land somewhere between 30 and 40rps. I had a feeling the 12:1's would be a bit overkill. Fps, hopefully 380-400. If I wanted to keep ROF in that range what shhould I swap out? 13:1's instead of 12:1?
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