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About mrtrump

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  1. So perhaps someone could explain the virtues of various hop up packings to me. I know of several kinds of hop up. I've heard of Maple Leaf, M hop, T hop, R hop, god knows what else. What makes any of these superior over the other, if any are objectively superior at all? Is it truly to each according to their preference? Thanks.
  2. Ok I understand that perspective. So this is really the only way, then?
  3. This; https://www.switairsoft.com/product-page/t-n-t-uprgaded-s-t-m1903-spring-rifle is objectively upgraded from this; https://www.switairsoft.com/product-page/s-t-m1903a3-airsoft-spring-rifle There is a list of the parts used to upgrade the m1903a3 in the page the first link leads you to on swit. Therefore, it stands to reason that since there is an upgraded m1903a3, and the list of parts used to upgrade the m1903a3 is on the page, upgrade parts do exist. What's more, I've found all of them for sale on swit, specifically to be used with the stock m1903a3. Here; https://www.switairsoft.com/product-page/tnt-s-t-m1903-s-barrel-t-hop-up-rubber-520mm https://www.switairsoft.com/product-page/t-n-t-upgrade-hop-up-chamber-for-s-t-m1903a3 https://www.switairsoft.com/product-page/tnt-s-t-m1903-steel-upgrade-sear-set https://www.switairsoft.com/product-page/s-t-m1903-steel-upgrade-cylinder-retrofit-kit That is every single upgrade part meant to be used on the stock s&t m1903a3. The reason I would think that there are upgrade parts for a proprietary system is because there are. As I said in my first post, I am told that the system s&t uses for their m1903a3 is proprietary. It may not be. I don't know. Are you saying that it definitely is proprietary? Thank you for the link to the scope.
  4. So I recently purchased the S&T m1903a3 simply because it's beautiful and the specs didn't look half bad. It performs at 390 fps stock and I would say I could hit somebody 75-80 percent of the time at 155-165 feet. Very very good for WW2 skirmishing. Not even close to a respectable airsoft sniper rifle in a real game. So I want to make it viable. There are a number of ways I could go about doing this, most obviously I could do this if I purchase the TNT upgrade parts designed to be used with the S&T m1903a3. I'm open to other suggestions, though. I'm told that the internals of this rifle are proprietary. They're not just VSR 10 internals in a cooler looking body, which really made me unhappy, until I realized that there are still good upgrade options. So if anybody could suggest things I could do to improve the performance of this gun, that would be great. Secondly, the scope. The scope I'm currently using is this thing; https://www.evike.com/products/26684/ I bought it because it got good reviews, looked decent, and was cheap. When I got it, it was solid, the variable magnification worked perfectly, but you can not sight the stupid thing in. The reticle does not move. So I got a free replacement that supposedly worked. It did not. So I've concluded that the claim that the scope can be zeroed is false. I don't know what I expected for 38 dollars. I'm fairly certain that it's not user error because checking if the crosshairs move is the simplest thing in the world and I use scopes of all kinds frequently on real firearms, so I am fairly familiar with scopes. I also called evike to be sure I was doing everything right. So I am inquiring if anybody can recommend a decent scope that functions properly.
  5. Yeah. Okay I guess I'll go back to using my ryosuku flat hop nub, which worked great.
  6. Ok. But can it be done? As I think about it, I think that as long as the standard V3 hop up unit fits in the same space my non-standard direct screw type fits into, and it seats properly into the space in the gun where the nozzle enters the hop up unit and makes a seal around the bb with the lips of the packing, there should be absolutely no reason that I can not use a standard V3 in my CYMA instead of the direct screw type. Of course, instead of doing that I could just attempt very carefully to perfectly tune the degree to which the ML mound protrudes into the barrel. Well, the hop up arm at the end of the screw in my hop up system. But I assume that since you posted a picture of a nub, that's what you want a picture of. I will get that to you as soon as possible.
  7. Is there any chance I could replace my current hop up unit with a standard one? It seems unlikely, but if I can, then I would certainly do that. Then why did RS choose to use a direct screw type? Is there any advantage at all? Still don't know what you mean by this. From what I've heard about the RS SVD, it performs quite well right out of the box. Like 80 percent accuracy at 80-90 yards. If the RS uses the same hop up system, that is, the direct screw, that my CYMA uses, it seems to me that whatever packing and nub RS uses ought to work in my CYMA well, and I bet they don't use a stock nub. Do you know what packing and nub assembly the RS uses?
  8. Apologies for the very extended absence. Anyway, I can't actually be completely certain if there is absolutely no contact with the hop up completely dialed out. To be completely certain, I would have to remove the hop up system and compare how the weapon fires with the packing and nub removed to how it fires with the packing and nub in their place but dialed out completely. May I ask why it matters? Regardless of whether there is little contact or no contact with the hop up completely dialed out, I still experience performance inferior to that of my thompson smg. As things stand right now, I have a better chance of hitting someone at 60 yards with my thompson than my dragunov. I apologize for the following question, as it may sound horribly ignorant. But, I was under the impression that all hop up systems (at least in AEGs) operated in essentially the same fashion; that is, an arm applies pressure to a nub, which concomitantly creates an indentation in the packing, and thus a small mound is present in the travel path of the bb. Could you explain what variables in different hop up systems might cause a ML packing and nub to perform differently in my hop up system than a standard one? Could you post an example of this please? Well, as I mentioned before, there is a sweet spot, but only in the sense that beyond that point of dial-in the weapon ceases to function. I make infinitesimally tiny adjustments to the dial-in of the hop up, but I have not achieved the range or accuracy out of this thing I had hoped for. I hear that Novritsch is using a ML system in his new SSG 10. I don't think as highly as Novritsch as a lot of people. I feel his products are over-rated and that a skilled marksman can achieve similar results in terms of accuracy at impressive range with an upgraded s&t m1903 or VSR 10, but I can not deny that if Novritsch is using an ML in his SSG 10, I can probably put some stock in ML products. Perhaps what would be most helpful is if you could send me a picture of the hop up system of an airsoft gun that uses an ML product with success. It seems to me that instead of trying to find things wrong with my hop up system, we should see what's right about other hop up systems. Perhaps it won't be helpful at all, but I think it's worth a try. However if you don't, I place more stock in your opinions than in mine on the topic of airsoft. Thanks.
  9. There's essentially no spin on my bb when fully dialed out. Range is horrible. Completely useless as any sort of DMR. I can honestly say I get better performance out of my stock packing and nub than the ML one. I've never heard of these sorts of problems with ML packing and nubs, but I'm not exactly steeped in the community of ML users. I never could've imagined that this would be so difficulty. I'm tempted to install the ML packing and nub I currently have in someone else's AEG (with their permission, of course) with the intention to observe the performance of their AEG with my ML packing and nub. I do not know what is unique about my AEG. But this whole topic has raised another question in my mind; I hear some people promote the virtues of using an eraser nub. This seems like a good idea in theory, but in practice, it seems like this would not work. An eraser seems like it would intrude even more into the barrel, creating an obstruction even more insurmountable than an ML packing and nub assembly such as mine. Unless the intention is to never dial in the eraser nub, but rather to leave it almost completely disengaged, and the advantage would just be the enormous contact patch. But, I assume that if some people promote the virtues of the eraser nub, and some promote the virtues of the ML packing and nub assembly, both hop up systems must work for those people. I would be very interested to know what is different about the internals, specifically the inner barrel, hop up assembly, etc, of their AEG from mine. My main question is: what do you think I should do about this? Thanks.
  10. After I posted the pictures I went back and examined the placement of the engaged hop up in the barrel. It was touching the right side of the barrel, completely off center. So, I centered it. Still, the problem persists. I then thought about any explanation that could explain why it is I am having such difficulties with the ML hop up, but never with my stock hop up or with the admittedly watered down flat hop I used prior to the ML. The only difference I could think of is that the contact patch was already present in the packing, and is larger. The only explanation I could convince myself might be even slightly feasible is the presence of the flat lip on the ML contact patch, present as soon as the bb is propelled by the air from the air nozzle. Perhaps the immediate flat ledge serves as a dead stop to the bb. I don't know. Here are some pictures of the current installation of the ML hop up: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ar5suSEFyHB3kpgQkYAGRGs1SfvaTMDL/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SSY2DSprV7nCE0nDy8nDnBXwsxzfFE6t/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/18DF9cayzQyIRUCr7g_gStWQxmN01r9ZV/view?usp=sharing I don't know if any of these will be useful. I apologize for the bad photography. Thanks.
  11. Here's a picture: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1URQUHdktQ0cSlI_6w5zXXxhSSiDE8MWn/view?usp=sharing Another: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JbvGmt-eG7VO9MXRDJlOjDqT1WJzU3ls/view?usp=sharing Tell me what you think. Thanks.
  12. I received the barrel, along with the maple leaf packing and nub included in the shipment. Thank you for including that, I was very pleased. I installed it, tested it, and found that the status of the original problem has not changed even slightly. Now, I have a few ideas for why this may be, but since I am inexperienced, I do not put too much faith in them. I'm curious if you think any are likely; 1. Simple user installation error. Somewhere in the process of installing I inserted the packing, nub, hop up unit, etc., at a strange angle or something that screwed up contact with the bb. 2. When I put the packing on the barrel, I noticed there were very small spaces between the barrel and the packing due to the spaces in the barrel designed to hold those little brass, o-shaped rings I can never figure out the purpose of. So I tried to correct an airseal problem I assumed would exist with teflon tape. Perhaps this affected the packing in a negative way. 3. When the packing arrived, it was under the barrel in the box, and was smashed almost flat. Therefore, when I put it on the barrel, it did not perfectly conform to the shape of the barrel. This, too, could account for the spaces between the barrel and packing I mentioned in idea 2 above. There are several ways I can think of to proceed; 1. Try to locate an airsoft tech of some repute and see if he can figure it out, though I think it unlikely that there are any airsoft techs at all in this part of Michigan. 2. Abandon the use of ML products completely, and focus on making a true flat hop or anything else, though I believe that this will likely not work, because, as I mentioned in earlier post, ANY amount of dial-up on the hop up renders the gun completely unusable. The slightest amount of applied hop creates an insurmountable obstruction for the bb to pass through. I'm wondering if I should put the stock packing and nub back in the gun and see if that works. 3. Do whatever you advise me to do in your response to this post. Thanks in advance.
  13. Excellent. Here is my home address: 71 Riverchase dr., Rockford, Michigan.
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