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mrtrump

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Everything posted by mrtrump

  1. I don't know. I thought about it and then realized I have no idea why I would think that for airsoft. I guess because since one would lose a significant amount of velocity, one would need to use much lighter bbs to get the same range as they would get using heavier bbs in a higher-velocity set up, and lighter bbs are much easily buffeted by any and all environmental factors, decreasing accuracy. Brilliant. So how could I possibly acquire one? If it's not a money maker there's really no reason for them to restock the miracle barrels in a hurry, if at all. Do you know of any private sellers who sell miracle barrels on ebay or craigslist or facebook market place? If you did, that might be ideal, due to the reduced prices at which items are sold on ecommerce sites. Thanks in advance.
  2. What is PSG? The only thing I can think of in airsoft that could be referenced by the letters PSG is the PSG-1 Tokyo Marui sniper rifle. Ok. Is the barrel window on this barrel as large as the one on the miracle barrel? That feature is somewhat important to me because of my lack of experience, I want to file as little as is possible. So if the barrel window isn't as large as the one on the miracle barrel, I'm gonna go with the miracle barrel. The largest MB I can find is 500mm in length. I don't know if that's okay. Every single place that sells miracle barrels is out of stock. Every single one. I don't know exactly how you get your miracle barrels, but it is not a good sign to me that literally every retailer is out of miracle barrels, so I'm definitely going to go with the PDI if all the miracle barrels stay out of stock. Ok. So what is the cutoff? At what point does a barrel's length start to take a serioius toll on performance? Because there are 165mm barrels. I'm genuinely curious; how does inner barrel length affect the performance of an airsoft gun? I can only assume that if I were to slap a 165mm inner barrel in my dragunov, I'd probably lose a lot of accuracy, for obvious reasons. It's sort of hard to not know the difference if you've ever even seen the inside of an AEG gearbox. Or if you've ever used either. Or if you've ever done work on the internals of an actual firearm, which I have. So yes, I know the difference. Your question seems to imply that there are people who don't know the difference. Simply as a matter of interest, are there people who don't know the difference?
  3. Okay thank you. As for the barrel, what difference does the length of a barrel make? My inner barrel on my CYMA dragunov is a monstrous 685mm. I literally can't find another barrel that long. I only looked because I was curious if a 685mm barrel is common practice. Secondly, I have heard some mixed reviews about miracle barrels. Some people on reddit had some very strong words about them. Here's a link: https://www.reddit.com/r/airsoft/comments/2a88s3/miracle_barrel_worth_it/ Some on airsoft sniper forum said miracle barrel+flat hop (though in my case ML packing)= fantastic range and accuracy. I'm going to do as you advised, because frankly I believe, from some reading I've done on other forums and this one, that what you say about airsoft carries more weight than what people on reddit say. I only bring it up because I wanted to know if the opponents of miracle barrels on that forum might have been referring to a specific issue, or if they're just running their mouths. Finally, I have found zero places where a miracle barrel is both sold and in stock. I know of only a couple online vendors. They are Evike, airsoft atlanta, airsoft megastore, airsoft GI, airsoft station, and probably a few others I'm forgetting, so it doesn't matter. Can you recommend a place from which I can buy a miracle barrel? Thanks in advance.
  4. What? What does this mean? This is actually probably a good thing. I was going to buy a new barrel soon-ish anyway. But again, I have NEVER heard of a problem of this nature with any ML packings. You previously mentioned that people frequently must modify their barrel to get 'full potential' from their packing. I'm not talking about acquiring 'full potential.' I'm talking about getting the thing to function at all. So, can you recommend a good barrel that would be more accomodating for ML packing, so I don't have to file it much, or if I'm lucky, at all. Ok. So, I did some research before I bought an ML packing. Granted, most of the research concerned outdated or no longer produced ML products. But regardless, the mound on those other ML packings I believe are similar in size to my own. And not one person mentioned the need to alter the barrel window. So I'm assuming that they either thought it was bleedingly obvious that one needed to alter the window, or they did not have any problems. Assuming that it's the latter, that suggests to me that there are barrels in existence that can accomodate ML packing. So; can you recommend one? Thanks in advance.
  5. There is a fairly serious cut in the pack. I assume it came from me removing and reinstalling the packing so often. Here's what I mean; https://drive.google.com/open?id=1gaXq1kpq2Uitl28mibKgRqiV9Jk9wyBu I don't think you can see it well, but where the mound touches the top of the packing, the edge you're facing, it is quite separated from the packing. That is, no longer attached very well. I think that it is beyond use. I may order another packing. Remember, the problem is that the bb doesn't do anything. If ANY hop is applied to the bb, the bb does not exit the barrel. When I say any, I mean any. as soon as the hop up arm makes contact with the nub, you can forget the possibility of a successful shot. I was examining it today. I lost a little gold ring that goes on the hop up end of the inner barrel a couple weeks ago. I lost it before I purchased ML packing. I think its purpose was to keep the inner barrel in place. Well, since it was gone, the inner barrel was very unstable. So I thought maybe the problem was that since the inner barrel was so unstable, it could have been messing up the mound. So I tried to fix the wobble with teflon tape. It stopped the wobble, but didnt fix the underlying problem. Below are links to my inner barrel so you can look at it again if you want. I did file it some more. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1s-p8itXvttCw0mq4axXpcC-95ksyN1IM https://drive.google.com/open?id=1zePWCskoo7I6DpUlsks4g00JTxXr-ohE Exactly how much do you recommend I file the window? Because it is now to the point where the mound makes no contact with any part of the aeg window. Thus, I can't see how the wonkiness of the file job could affect the application of the hop, again, because there is exactly zero contact between the mound and inner barrel. I must ask; is there any other possible cause for this problem? Any at all? I believe I should've asked this question a while back, but if you remember my mention of a ryosuku flat hop nub I had in my gun prior to this ML, I should tell you I had zero problems with that hop up system. But ANY application of hop on this ML packing, and the gun ceases to function. At the ML's lowest hop setting, it is nowhere close to as much hope as a standard nub would provide. So why do you suppose I'm having problems with the ML but I didn't with the 'flat hop.' I'm tempted to reinstall the stock bucking and nub, just to see if that works. Of course, I wouldn't keep the stock bucking and nub. I don't know any people who use a ML, but from what reviews of ML packings I've read on forums, and the reviews on the product page I purchased my ML packing from, absolutely no one has complained of a problem of this nature. Is it possible to know what factors make my barrel different? Thanks in advance.
  6. I ordered the files. However, I can't do much until they come. So I thought I would try to gather more useful information. Below is a link that shows the packing at its maximum dial up. Do you see anything wrong? https://drive.google.com/open?id=1fsmVrF8MOAvikayCnAP9txthuVRB2pVF Also, why am I trying to make the window larger? I was under the mistaken impression that if the mound fits in the window, that means the aeg can accommodate that packing without further modification. How does making the window larger fix my problem? Thanks in advance.
  7. Could you recommend a file and vendor? Because there are many different kinds of files. I assume that I should purchase the smallest one. Also, to even this barrel out like the stainless steel barrel seems quite ambitious. I don't even know if it's possible to make it as smooth and flawless as the stainless steel one. I thought the goal was more or less just to make the barrel window bigger so my ML packing can be used with it. Thanks in advance.
  8. Do you suppose, with my level of inexperience, it would be more prudent to buy a new inner barrel?
  9. I truly don't know if this is better. It could very possible be worse. Maybe because I do not have an eye for subtlety, but I do not see significant difference between my barrel and the stainless steel one. Thus, I did not entirely know when to stop filing. But here's what I've done. If I've made it worse, please do not hesitate to be blunt. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1zpKt5y9qDqfpYd4xxnCxcxgPWTsYVu6z Also, if I did improve the mill job, is this likely to play any role in fixing the original problem for which this thread was created? Perhaps this is just my ignorance talking, but I truly do not see how the simple act of altering something so subtle could fix such a blatant problem. I'm truly not even sure I see a connection between the uneveness of the barrel window and the contact mound problem, as nothing actually contacts the part of the inner barrel window I was advised to file. Is it possible I may need to simply purchase a new inner barrel? Or that, againt everything I read on AirsoftAtlanta's product page about the packing I purchased, and the forums I read, that I purchased a packing and nub that are somehow incompatible with my aeg? Thanks in advance.
  10. Er, ok. Thanks. But my question is if this changes the need to file the barrel window. Thanks in advance.
  11. This is a picture of my maple leaf macaron packing. It is different from the picture of the one you posted, in which you said that the problem lies in the way the packing sits on the barrel window. Does that change anything? https://drive.google.com/open?id=1tf-vrABrBmnHSdk1A6DFVgo6dJ-3NY3L There is no 'channel' on either side of the contact patch. Nothing 'sits' on the barrel window in the same way that the delta packing you posted does. It all fits inside the barrel window. This seems significant to me, though it may not be. Should I still fix the mill job by filing anyway? Thanks in advance.
  12. Yeah. Ok thanks I'll push the trigger connector together. When you say that this is not a high grade product, do you mean by nature or do you mean this specific one that I have? If you mean it is not high grade by nature, could you recommend or direct me to a vendor that does sell high grade thompsons, if indeed such a vendor and exists? Thanks in advance.
  13. So I removed some shims from all three gears in the gearbox, because all were far too tight. This helped dramatically. However, I still did have some issues. So I wanted to see if the issue was still in the action of the pinion gears spinning the other gears to fire the weapon, or if there was another issue, and I suspected that there was another issue. Specifically, one in the motor or the electrical connection from the battery to the motor. So I removed the motor with the pinion gear on the end from the gearbox, separating it from the other gears. I then pulled the trigger. The pinion gear spun, the motor operated well most of the time. After some amount of time passed of keeping the trigger continually depressed and watching the pinion gear spin, it simply stopped. So I pulled the trigger as hard as I could, as far back as I could, without ever letting it resume its original position. And it worked. The pinion gear continued to spin. I did this because I suspected that there was a connection issue, and it lied in the connection between the trigger mechanism and the metal pieces which allowed current from the battery that traveled through the wires to pass through the trigger mechanism and into the motor, because I deemed the mode of connection in the trigger mechanism a good design, but it was probably poorly manufactured. The metal pieces were too far apart, which I believe created a very fragile connection between them and the trigger mechanism. However, this is also partially my hope, because if this is the issue, it is an easy fix. I still fear that the issue may be in the wires, or even more frightening, in the motor itself. I came to ask if I was in fact correct about the nature of this issue, that it was a simply trigger mechanism connection issue, or if it is something more undesirable. Is there an issue that is more likely? Thanks in advance.
  14. I see. I will file the barrel asap. One question; 1. What about the tappet plate, nozzle misalignment, etc.? We simply moved on to the issue of the barrel without addressing the first issue. Do I need to pay any more attention to the nozzle-related issues? Thanks in advance.
  15. I apologize for the poor response time. I truly do not see a difference between the barrel of the stainless steel and my barrel, other than the obvious color. Remember my lack of experience. What difference am I looking at? Thanks in advance. Also, on a side note, I know that this is not the correct discussion, but I removed some shims from the gearbox on my 1928 thompson as you said may fix the problem and it did work. It also saved some money. So thank you.
  16. Here you are; https://drive.google.com/open?id=1mck7yVa_T8wQ4kjeDVTGxJKmXLj82fDg https://drive.google.com/open?id=1bdNw6PhbQ7yOPpzGtt8OQn3T3PtAIIdy You said that you say no problems with the packing or nub at this time. I thought nozzle misalignment was considered the most likely problem, not any component of the hop up system. Am I wrong? Thanks in advance. If these images are any help, what is the best route I can take to remedy the problem I am having?
  17. Yes the packing is on the barrel in all the pictures. If you look in the third link from the bottom, you'll see a blue ring. That's the 70 degree maple leaf macaron packing. If you look in the bottom link, you'll also see maybe a small patch that protrudes slightly. That's the contact patch on the bucking. When you say my barrel looks off kilter and left by a hair, what do you mean. Also, what do you suggest I do to remedy the issue with the packing and nub?
  18. Here you are. I hope at least one of these are helpful; 1. https://drive.google.com/open?id=10QOM5PjkZfovpY8-Ugb1n1ZpQN1lFppy 2. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_LOwRZx8XmxU-GOc7tDHF5pTCbxUvb6c 3. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1FlqvZNZXghe2orE19OHtco3W4TkATpmz 4. https://drive.google.com/open?id=19BU-0FF9tKMf3zVwuK0Ps9ldA-eRLR8A 5. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1PpynDri07W2q8p284jPNX7Ub9XtYxQxM 6. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1L-qr9PNDMs5bLRDToZ93ldw1QYaESL_W 7. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_1ZmL3z6th8REHXB1qCiA3XJx54rgMqa I apologize for the first inner barrel image I posted. When you said "now you need to throw some light down that barrel with the hop-up fully off" I interpreted "off" as "removed." I was confused about how that would help anything. Thanks in advance.
  19. Is this what you mean? https://drive.google.com/open?id=1DY74SQKctEAQe39XEhB5NCOCCBlU3bi1
  20. Public link showing a front view of the gearbox: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1lCgMApqtHrmAoDF_SSptP1nE6vXEd4oK (front) Here is a public link showing a side view. The purpose of this one is just to show you the distance from the front of the gearbox to the tappet plate at almost full retraction: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1c_o1nOniINaPBw8M-xTFkXioLzDd7qnX (side) And just for fun, here's one from inside the gearbox. The purpose is to show you how the nozzle sits on the tappet plate and how the tappet plate sits in the gearbox. I removed the tappet spring because it caused the tappet plate to stick out of the gearbox without the other half of the gearbox shell holding it in place, and I didn't want to hold it in place with my fingers for fear of obstructing the photo: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1GpOqwvigAsNTe3d6j9I_CCR1Mmj7q5xT (gearbox view) I hope that these help. Thanks in advance. Sorry for the technological incompetence, I swear I am younger than 25.
  21. here's the tappet plate inside the gearbox, at the point the nozzle would contact the packing. To me all looks as it should be. Does it to you? https://slack-files.com/T012QUU33EH-F01359MH6DP-3b133e9e89 Thanks in advance.
  22. Here's a front view. Hope you like slack. I don't know how to upload an image to the forum server. https://files.slack.com/files-pri/T012QUU33EH-F012SANRMFU/picture_from_front.jpg (front) The purpose of this image is so you can see the distance away from the front of the gearbox the tappet plate is at almost full retraction. I couldn't get the tappet plate to come forward without opening the gearbox for obvious reasons. https://slack-files.com/T012QUU33EH-F013G71DEU8-ae425b86bf (side) I'm not quite certain how I could look at the nozzle when the hop up unit is inline and secured down, because you can't see the nozzle when the hop up unit is over it. I could remove the packing, which would allow me to see better, but I'm not sure how that would be helpful, since I believe we're trying to figure out how the nozzle engages the lips of the packing. I hope this is helpful. Thanks in advance.
  23. Sorry here's a working link for the side view: file:///C:/Users/sirsk/Downloads/picture%20from%20the%20side.pdf
  24. Here's a picture I took. The visible image is a side view to look for any misalignment. Sorry if it's a bad picture. Here's a link to an image showing you the tappet plate on this gun. What you see is a tappet plate at almost full retraction: file:///C:/Users/sirsk/Downloads/picture from the side.pdf Here's a picture from a front view: file:///C:/Users/sirsk/Downloads/picture from front.pdf Hope this helps. If not, I can do everything over again.
  25. I can't post an image because the maximum size for an image is 0.49mb and I can't get a picture below 3mb. Apologies for the ignorance.
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