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Everything posted by mrtrump

  1. Please keep in mind my relative inexperience when I tell you: As I look at the nozzle, there is no obvious misalignment. Will nozzle misalignment be a subtle issue, or could there be any other cause for my problem. Thanks in advance.
  2. I recently finished some upgrades on my CYMA cm057 dragunov. I cleaned the barrel with a cotton square and rubbing alcohol, installed a maple leaf macaron 70 degree packing and concomitant concave nub. Here are links to the items: https://www.airsoftatlanta.com/products/maple-leaf-aeg-rubber-70-degree (packing) https://www.airsoftatlanta.com/products/maple-leaf-aeg-hop-up-tensioner-omega (nub) I also stretched the o ring around the piston head. I am overall pleased with the final result, but I have one fairly large problem: when I fired the gun, it only fired every other shot, made a very strange noise, and on the second trigger pull when it did fire, two bbs were fired. To isolate the problem, I first stripped away everything from the gun but the gearbox, to see if the problem was in the gearbox. The gearbox operated perfectly. No strange noise, a nice, crisp response, and it was a slightly quieter noise, less of a whine, because I shimmed the gears. I then held the inner barrel in place against the gearbox. No problems. I then reassembled the thing. Strange noise, only fired every other shot. I then did it all over again, and completely reassembled the gun. However, this time I accidentally lost the nub in my hop up unit and didnt realize it until later. This time, all went perfectly. When I realized that I didn't have the nub in, I went back and reinstalled it. At this point, I was suspicious that the factor causing the gun's malfunction was the presence of the hop up nub. So when I reinstalled the nub, I turned the hop up to the lowest setting. Everything worked. I turned the hop up slightly more. Worked fine. When I got to a certain point, and that point was not even very much hop up, the gun did the same thing I previously described. My question is why. How. Is it the hop up nub? It seems like it, but I could be wrong. Does it sound like anything else? Why does the hop up system cause malfunction, if that is indeed the cause? Thanks in advance. Also, at the low level of hop I had the hop up unit at when the gun did fire, fps was DRAMATICALLY reduced.
  3. I was re-reading this thread again, and paid closer attention to your quote here. You say one set of 0.1mm shims too many in a batch could be the cause of this problem. Instead of buying a new charger and battery, is it possible I could solve the problem by opening the gearbox and simply removing some shims, or replacing some thicker shims with thinner ones? Thanks in advance.
  4. You literally could have just answered the question in the space it took you to type your entire paragraph. I do not know what materials TM uses in its internals, and part of the reason I use this forum is because there are knowledgeable people here who do know what materials tokyo marui uses in its internals, and simply asking another knowledgeable human a fairly detailed question is much easier than hunting through a hundred pages of google results, where, as you have said, much information is quite unreliable. So, why don't you tell me what materials TM uses? Because the first result that comes up when you search it is "plastic." And that's about the most helpful answer you'll get. As for what it will do to the sear: I don't know for sure, because I'VE NEVER OWNED ANY TMs. But I can parrot things at you about the stock 45 degree sear in TM not being able to handle very strong springs for a very long time, so it should be changed to a 90 degree sear. Allow me to ask a more specific question for this whole topic; what PHYSICAL FEATURES AND MATERIALS makes TMs so reliable? This is not very specific. Let's assume we're only talking about a vsr10, because that's what I'm doing. By Novritsch's own account, and from taking apart some bolt actions I have owned, ALL airsoft bolt actions work EXACTLY THE SAME internally. The ONLY variable is materials. So what do you mean when you say "mirror all design features and make it out of new materials to hand the increase stress, but work in the original fashion"? That just sounds like you're saying "make it work better, but still operate like a bolt action." If this is false, could you set me straight? So, if Novritsch can simply entirely change the internals of his TM vsr10, and improve it's performance, what was the point of purchasing the TM in the first place? Because, again by Nov's own account, a TM vsr10 works the same as any other bolt action with the only variable being materials, couldn't he have purchased ANY vsr10 and completely redone its internals with the same stuff he used anyway on his TM VSR10? And what do you mean when you say "Can you see why this would make a base vsr10 work better? Can you see why this isn't a TM vsr any more"? Firstly, what do you mean by "better"? Do you mean more durable, more accurate, faster, more reliable, what do you mean? And if indeed you mean durable and reliable, if Novritsch can improve his TM's durability and reliability, isn't that proof that there are other, better parts than the one TM uses? Secondly, the thing about it not being a TM vsr10 anymore is literally my exact point. You don't need a master's degree to understand airsoft. If by "get a grasp of material science" you mean steel is better than aluminum and having the ability to compare materials, that is not "material science." That's children's play compared to what material science actually is. As for "physics and chemical properties" I'm almost certain the only thing you're trying to say here is "figure out how a bolt action works." Just say what you mean, please, it would save lots of time. Thanks in advance.
  5. So when I talk about range, in this context, I was mostly talking about sniper rifle range. I'm very sorry, I should have clarified. But I was thinking more about the vsr10. When I say good range, I mean 255 ft+. And I am quite certain most snipers prefer to play with bbs heavier than 0.25g because 0.25 are more affected by wind and such, so your "effective range" becomes less reliable. I run 0.43g in my DMR, and I don't think a tokyo marui vsr10 at 295fps could hit anything at 220+ feet with 0.43g. I don't know though. I am more than prepared to believe I am wrong. I don't entirely understand what you're saying because to change the internals of a tokyo marui, if it is indeed as reliable and magical as everybody says, is to reduce the magical quality of tokyo maruis in some way, is it not? Because as I said, Nov changed EVERYTHING internally in his tm vsr10. So again I ask, what was the point of purchasing the thing in the first place? Do you not lose some Tokyo Marui magic? Most people I know who use TMs change the spring as soon as they get it, especially if they are snipers. If you change the spring, do you not have to change other things in the gun so it can handle the spring? Or are TM internals so good they can handle any spring you throw at it? Again, I am very ignorant, and I apologize if I sound that way. I've heard this. I've done some research on what makes TM hop up units special. I can find nothing that is detailed. Only reiteration of how great TM hop up units are. I would like to actually know the design. So I ask you; what PHYSICAL DESIGN ASPECTS of TM hop ups allow them to so masterfully employ the magnus effect? Thanks in advance, and sorry for the ignorance.
  6. Just out of curiosity, every once in a while I just look at Tokyo Marui products for fun, but when I look at them, one thing always bugs me; why on earth are tm products usually AT LEAST 250 USD and perform at 295 fps or less out of the box? I mean for god's sake I know you can't even get GOOD range out of a gun that performs at 295 with anything heavier than a 0.2. But I look at airsofters like Novritsch and House Gamers and they both used specifically a tokyo marui vsr10 at some point in their career and claim it's just the best frickin thing ever. However, Novritsch himself says that his tm vsr10 is completely changed internally. Not a single stock part remaining. So why even buy a tm at all? I myself was recently looking at a vsr10 and I'm more tempted to purchase a CYMA clone than a tm. Could somebody clarify this matter? Because right now it looks to me like TMs are nothing but a way to fleece people and make them like it because they think it's great because it's a tm. Disclaimer, I have zero tm experience, so I speak from no personal experience.
  7. Why is this true? I thought what I had was a flat hop nub, but its installation did not require destruction of anything. Here's a link to the one I purchased; https://www.evike.com/products/43035/. You can see the nub. Absolutely not. I use rubbing alcohol. You also said: "Harder packing require longer contact time to get the same amount of back spin. " Why is this true? Thanks in advance
  8. So I purchased a maple leaf macaron hop up packing, and a concave nub to use with it. I did this because prior to the maple leaf macaron packing and concave nub I now use, I used a flat hop nub and just a stock packing. Will the maple leaf hop up components I'm now using yield better results than the flat hop system I was using before? Is maple leaf in general better than flat hop? I only ask because since you said maple leaf has made flat hop obsolete, and in my experience they're both equally easy to install, your statement sounds to me as though maple leaf is better. I'm not entirely sure what this means. Thanks in advance.
  9. Ok, thank you very much. So the video mostly showed how r-hop performs versus stock and flat hop. It didn't really explain why. I would like to know why it is that if I shoot the same ammo forever go r-hop and if I shoot a variety do not r-hop. I would also like to know the actual physical difference between a flat hop system and an r hop system. Why does r-hop work so well? Why does it perform better than flat hop as a general rule? What physical features of r-hop account for this performance disparity? Thanks in advance.
  10. To the very best of my possibly minimal understanding, r-hop, especially in AEGs, involves cutting a patch of silicone tubing to perfectly fit your hop-up window, sanding flat the inside of the packing to minimize any imperfections with bb contact, and flattening the hop up arm so an m-nub can be used with it. What I'm wondering is why is this any better than, say, a flat-hop nub? Flat-hop nubs completely fill the hop-up window, right? Or is that false? Is it just because the r-hop patch is more of a gentle, long contact point than the sharper, more square-shaped flat hop nub? Is it a question of durability? Again, I am quite ignorant, and would like someone to offer detailed clarification. Thanks in advance.
  11. does it matter the solvent? Could I just use water or rubbing alcohol?
  12. Ok thank you very much. I had no idea so much misinformation was still being distributed. This saves me some time. Thanks!
  13. Hello, I am trying to find an air nozzle for my CYMA SVD that would fulfill my attempts to get a perfect air seal, which is part of my larger goal to build a legit DMR. So far I've replaced the o-ring on the piston head and stretched it. I've also stretched the o-ring over the cylinder head. After I completed this, I tested the air seal without the air nozzle on. It was perfect. Absolutely no air leaks. Impossible to push past a certain point. When I put the air nozzle on, the seal was ok. There was definitely a lot of air escaping, and the piston never stopped in the cylinder. So, I'm wondering what air nozzle I should purchase to correct this and get perfect air seal. The one I am looking at; https://www.airsoftcenter.nl/internals/gearbox/nozzles/fps-aluminium-air-seal-nozzle-with-o-ring-for-svd-dragunov-fps-aluminium-air-seal-nozzle-with-o-ring-for-svd-dragunov I've heard good things about getting an SHS MP5 air nozzle and shaving off 0.7mm. I'll do that if I must, but frankly I am more inclined to trust the product whose specific stated use is for the CYMA Dragunov. Please tell me what you think is the best course of action. Thanks in advance!
  14. Thank you, but I've seen that thread and I was looking more for clarification on all the different terms. The subject of the thread is 45 vs 90 degree pistons, but the first response changes the term from "piston" to "trigger" and the second response changes yet again to "sear." I know these are all different things. So what exactly is a 90 degree piston, sear, and trigger? Thanks!
  15. I just recently got into spring powered snipers. I almost exclusively use AEGs, so I have never bothered to do upgrades on my one spring sniper, an ASG SportLine m40a3. I purchased this one because it is easy to upgrade (I've heard from many experienced spring sniper users) and it was quite cheap, and even performed decently out of the box. One of the first improvement items I encountered in the context of spring sniper rifles was a 45 degree vs 90 degree piston. What does that mean? I've seen some stuff about the way the sear engages the spring, but it seemed likely that was something entirely different, because I didn't see how it would make sense to name a piston after the way the sear engages the spring. Could somebody please clarify all this? Thanks in advance!
  16. Thank you. The graphs were quite helpful. Sorry for the ignorance, but when I looked at your last visual, the voltage table, I noticed 0% capacity on every battery was not 0 volts. Why is that? Sorry, I do not know much about batteries. Also, why did a battery that was incompatible with the AEG I purchased come with the AEG the first time? Why was the tenergy battery I purchased to replace the stock battery also incompatible with the AEG? I know other people who use tenergy batteries and don't have problems. What is peculiar about this thompson, if anything? Thanks in advance.
  17. Not to be rude, but here's a word of advice; this is airsoft. A trivial matter at best. It's not a discussion about anything consequential. There is no reason to be condescending, in fact it is quite unwise if your goal is to advise and have the recipient of said advice listen. But I did listen and appreciate the advice. But does it? You say it can, but does it? Is the 7.4v label simply false? Thanks.
  18. So all the 2700mah 2s LIPO batteries I see give different "C" options. I assume C stands for Coulomb, but I don't know. What "C" option should I select? Also, all the 2700mah 2s LIPO batteries I see are 7.4v, which offer a lower rate of fire than I wish it did, and a less snappy trigger response. Should I disregard this and buy the thing anyway? Thanks.
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