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About OutlawAirsoft

  • Rank
    ASF Immigrant

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Hamilton, MT
  • Interests
    Airsoft, paintball, airsoft, ultimate, airsoft, teching and airsoft.

Previous Fields

  • Airsoft Replicas Owned
    ICS AK74

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  1. I wondered whether the info was outdated. And I also suspect he just popped a spring in long enough to chrono it and didn't let it settle. I didn't even think about the double-bearing system, but that makes sense. At least he documented everything well. Is there a more accurate chart I can use to roughly calculate different FPS's springs will give me?
  2. I saw an online chart that showed the various well-known spring types and their respective FPS values, and a PDI 150% was 395 FPS. I think this is it: Sorry for the monstrous size. It could be inaccurate, but it seems pretty well researched. Would you recommend a 170%? Anyway, I paid $52 for the motor, I think.
  3. Thanks for the informative and quick reply. I've decided to purchase a 150% PDI spring, putting me at darn near 400 FPS (hopefully). I still need a good piston head, though. Any ideas?
  4. I did not have a specific reason for buying SystemA springs, so do you have a better option? I probably won't get an M140 spring anyway, due to various field regulations and the extra strain it would put on my gearbox. Where could I get a good quality piston head without ball bearings? I have looked and can not find a good source. Also I apologize for being so ignorant. I should have guessed what the magwell tissue test was, as it is pretty simple. But thanks for explaining it to me.
  5. I will dismantle my gearbox and see what type of spring is actually in there. I built a spring measuring tool based on this site: https://www.airsoftguns-europe.com/how-to-correctly-measure-the-real-stiffness-of-airsoft-springs I don't know what to think of it, but it seems accurate. I also know about the bearing issue. I actually removed the bearings from the piston head to lighten it up, and could go back to a stock spring guide, but don't see the need. I reason I got a bearing piston head was because it was difficult to find a good-quality one without bearings. Do you have a recommendation? I will also get a true m140 spring (probably SystemA) and the hop-up system you recommended. About that, should I get the "MR 50" and the "Omega Nub Hollow"? Finally, what is the "magwell tissue test"? I feel like I might know it under a different name. My barrel is 455mm.
  6. Thanks, I found the product on eBay. I just need the "MR 50" and the "Omega Nub Hollow", right? I also noticed some rather disappointing FPS issues with the same AK. The internals consist of: SHS Metal Toothed Piston (swiss cheesed), SHS Double O-ring Cylinder Head, Crossman Tappet Plate, Lonex A2 High Torque Motor, Maddog M140 Spring (reported to give me 459 FPS), SHS Metal Spring Guide, Maxx Aluminum Double O-ring Piston Head **The Maxx Piston Head was a bit of a mistake, good quality but heavy and with the unnecessary ball-bearings.** The issue is that even with all these upgrade parts, I can't seem to get more than 270 - 300 FPS (w/ .25g BBs). I don't know what Maddog springs are (hard, semi-hard, etc.), but with this result I suspect that they are soft. I'm not sure of the FPS immediately after installing the new spring (since I just got a chronograph), but I suspect it hasn't changed much. The Maddog spring is pretty easy to compress into the gearbox, maybe even easier than the stock spring (M130?). I did disassemble the gun and check the compression, and was not impressed. It was terrible. After checking the piston head I adjusted the O-ring (enlarged it) and reassembled the gun. If anything, the FPS dropped! Do you have any idea why I can't get more than 300 FPS with these internals?
  7. No, the barrel does not go through the flash hider. I made the mistake of trusting the description where I got it, and not measuring it. A thorough measurement shows that sure enough, it is 455mm. Darn you, Evike! Good thing I didn't purchase any replacement barrel. Anyway, do you know where I can get this Maple Leaf R-Hop-like product? I googled "maple leaf airsoft hop-up" and only came up with what I assume are older versions. Is it true that just changing your bucking/packing can so dramatically improve your range? Does the nub need any changing/adjusting? And if I did find it, what price range am I looking at?
  8. I apoligize for the partial suggestion. The "c" rating on a battery tells you the continuous current (amps) the battery will support. Multiplying this by the mAH tells you the effective power output of the battery. Obviusly the total effectiveness of the battery is determined by more than the "c" rating, but for players looking at a selection of realistic airsoft batteries (between 1000 & 2000 mAH), the "c" rating can give a good example of the power output. In other words, if you are looking at two batteries with 1,200 mAH, one with 20 Cs and the other with 50 Cs, more Cs = more power. Also, if properly shimmed and lubricated, your average steel stock gears should be able to handle an M140 spring with ease. In that kind of build, the weak link is going to be the motor/battery.
  9. The stock barrel on my ICS AK74 is 509mm. What do you mean: "MR AEG packing at 50 degree durometer"? Is that a specific product?
  10. I am looking to upgrade my ICS AK74 hop-up unit. I am looking for something geared specifically towards Rhop, as I am also going to get a Prometheus 6.03mm x 509mm inner barrel, possibly with the Rhop patch pre-installed. I have searched Evike, Redwolf Airsoft, Amazon and Ebay (the last two I don't usually trust for qualityairsoft parts), but to no avail. Are there any specific units I should get/avoid? Ultimately I am looking for maximum consistancy and range. Any Ideas? Help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  11. I need to know the specs of what you have in the gearbox already before I can give good advice on how to upgrade it. For example, is the gearbox metal or plastic? Honestly, if the gears and gearbox are metal, you shouldn't need to upgrade anything for it to be able to handle an M140 spring. To ensure your motor can provide the extra necessary torque, I do recommend installing a mosfet and finding a battery with the highest "c" rating available (above 25 would be best).
  12. You can try short stroking the piston. It is rather difficult and involves grinding (or filling) some teeth off the piston. From my experience, removing one tooth drops your FPS by about 15.
  13. Most airsoft O-rings are made of synthetic rubber and are only damaged by oils containing petroleum products. In addition, I don't use the oil as a lubricant, I use it to preserve the O-ring.
  14. No way. I never clean the barrel or the hop-up with oil. I won't do so on anything that requires friction to work. I do use oil in the gearbox, though: silicone oil for the the O-rings, silicone grease for the plastic-on-plastic and metal-on-plastic applications, and molybdenum disulphide grease for the metal-on-metal applications. All my lubricants are from Abbey Gun Solutions. Also, The mag I used to test the gun after the gearbox work was actually jammed. The gun works better now, just not perfectly.
  15. The gun is from CYMA. I just did some internal work the other day, including reshimming, cleaning, relubing, and correcting AOE, in the hopes of isolating and fixing the problem, but it did nothing. Could the tappet timing be at fault?
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