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About OutlawAirsoft

  • Rank
    ASF Immigrant

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Hamilton, MT
  • Interests
    Airsoft, paintball, airsoft, ultimate, airsoft, teching and airsoft.

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  • Airsoft Replicas Owned
    ICS AK74

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  1. That is a really cool idea. I've been trying myself to integrate arduino into airsoft, but with limited success (bombs, claymores, etc.). I hope to try to make a mosfet based off of arduino, but I need a super small one.
  2. I use small cotton patches dipped in rubbing alcohol (70%) followed by dry patches. It does a really good job.
  3. Possibly the coolest upgrade ever for CQB is a tracer unit. But, if you don't want to dish out 70 to 100 bucks and are feeling a little techy, try this: https://www.meetup.com/Puget-Sound-Airsoft-Alliance/messages/boards/thread/48656383 It is a little advanced, but is super cool when it works. Otherwise, as Guges said, the best and easiest upgrade is to replace your battery.
  4. If you are trying to upgrade for power, getting a new motor will not help. Nor will it help with the accuracy. A new spring (M130 maybe?) would increase the power, but you run the risk of stripping your piston as it's probably plastic (I don't know what is inside the Lancer Tactical LT 15, so this is all speculation). If, however, the spring is to strong for the stock motor, you'll need to upgrade that too. The accuracy would be best improved with a new hop-up packing or nub, and I've heard really good things about Maple Leaf products. Also make sure to keep your inner barrel clean, but DON'T CLEAN THE HOP-UP UNIT! It works on friction, so cleaning in counter-intuitive. But, since you're shooting at geese, no amount of power in an airsoft gun is going to bother them. The feathers are like armor.
  5. Are we speaking of the i5 gearbox? I haven't had good success with that product from G&P.
  6. My bad, it is brass. It's gold colored. I thought it could be brass, but that sounded weird.
  7. The stock 455mm barrel. It's copper, I think.
  8. Hey Guges, 2 quick questions regarding the MR Hopup system: 1) All I need to run this setup is a MR 50 and a hollow nub, right? 2) If I do end up needing to enlarge my barrel window, how to I go about doing that? Do I use a dremmel with a grinding wheel and then clean it up with a file? I imagine the inside of the barrel needs to be pretty neat.
  9. I think this is a great idea. There are not enough basic loadout articles available for a beginner, and it can often be overwhelming and overly expensive to do it yourself. I have a couple of suggestions, though. If you are planning to post this somewhere I would recommend adding pictures of the products in addition to the links, if possible. Also, I would recommend an 11.1v LiPo battery upgrade for the AK's. It's not fair that only M4's get LiPo's. Unfortunately, the LiPo upgrade is not easy or likely possible for beginners.
  10. Is there a way to keep a gearbox warm in temperatures like that? The only (semi) practical method I can think of is to take a battery-powered heater and periodically warm the gun. I guess you could get hand warmers and pack them around the receiver, but that seems difficult. I can imagine that cold would be a big issue in late/early year milsims.
  11. I'll avoid bearings and get a better piston head. Do bearings up your FPS up a specific amount, say, 5 FPS?
  12. The reason I would use a chart to tell me the approximate FPS any given spring would yield is because the spring is the most instrumental part in determining FPS. I know you can't just pop in a specific part and change the gun's specs, but there are approximate estimations on what said part will do in your build. Foe example, no matter how good your compression in you won't get 400 FPS with an M100 spring, and having a bearing in the build does not change the resulting FPS more than 20%. That is why although you can't trust a results chart completely, sometimes it is useful to estimate the results you could get if you did everything right, especially if you don't have years of experience building gearboxes from scratch. Put it together, chrono it, let it settle if necessary, chrono it again, and change it if you don't like it. Using your rough (dependent on other parts) calculations of a PDI spring, a 170% should give you ~404 FPS. If I want 400, is 170% what I should get?
  13. I wondered whether the info was outdated. And I also suspect he just popped a spring in long enough to chrono it and didn't let it settle. I didn't even think about the double-bearing system, but that makes sense. At least he documented everything well. Is there a more accurate chart I can use to roughly calculate different FPS's springs will give me?
  14. I saw an online chart that showed the various well-known spring types and their respective FPS values, and a PDI 150% was 395 FPS. I think this is it: Sorry for the monstrous size. It could be inaccurate, but it seems pretty well researched. Would you recommend a 170%? Anyway, I paid $52 for the motor, I think.
  15. Thanks for the informative and quick reply. I've decided to purchase a 150% PDI spring, putting me at darn near 400 FPS (hopefully). I still need a good piston head, though. Any ideas?
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