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Airsoft Replicas Owned

Found 7 results

  1. KWA Kriss Vector Infinity Build - infinite firepower for your GBB Vector for whom you can't find good mags anymore! This works for all KWA GBB mags btw. Supplies needed: -CQB Russian HPA adapter valve for KWA fill valves -Any Electric autowinding box mag (I used A&K M249 mag) -CA Glue and Zip Kicker (optional) -JB weld epoxy (the tubes, and faster cure time is better) can be found at walmart -Ideally 1*7.5*1000mm steel extension spring (I've only found .5*8*1000 and that worked for me https://m.aliexpress.com/s/item/32812313986.html?spm=a2g0n.search-cache.0.0.70bc08b9FMNRwW#autostay) You might want to double check the minimum diameter of the bottom of your mag's bb reservoir using a micrometer/calipers because all mags are different. Also spend time trying to find a spring with a thicker wire diameter than the 0.5mm that I used, because it's pretty slinky. It's tough tho. If you do, *please* link me it. 1. Install the HPA Valve and take out the spring and guide assembly out of your mag. 2. Insert the extension spring into the bottom of your mag until it stops. Make sure you take out the reservoir parts before permanently fixing this spring in. 3. Use CA glue+zip kicker, or JB weld along the contact line of the bb reservoir and spring to affix it into the reservoir 4. Take a >1in piece of rigid tube that's wide enough to slide over the spring. I find larger plastic pen barrels work, but you can use anything you want. Slide it up the spring up to the bottom of the mag, and apply generous amounts of JB weld to the magbase-tube connection. 5. Optional, but use some kind of flexible rubber tube to slide halfway over the tube you just glued to provide some play in case the bottom of the mag is pushed against something. You don't want your spring to get bent out of shape. I used the rubber grip off the pen I used for the previous section. Tape of any kind should be okay. 5. Take an electric box mag and JB weld the feed spring on it in a similar fashion. You may need to remove the release lever on the mag's feed lip that keeps BBs in, or remove the feed lip totally. On my A&K M249 mag, upon removing the mag's top part that clips into the gun, there was already a metal spring with a widened portion that I could stick my spring into and glue it. 6. Splice and solder adequately long (3 or wires onto the pressure switch for your mag, or if the mag doesn't have that, disassemble it and splice/solder the switch wire onto the segment of positive wire coming after the switch and battery. 7. Tape the switch onto your gun wherever you like. 8. Use 3+ ft of 3/4 in or wider plastic wire conduit (flex tubing) to wrap around your hpa/bb/switch lines. It's the stuff you see wrapped around the wires in your car's engine bay, you can get it at NAPA auto parts and sometimes Lowes or Home Depot. You can also use other stuff like mesh tubing as long as it protects your lines from snagging. And BLAMO, now you have INFINITE firepower from your Vector without paying $100s for new mags!
  2. For pictures view this article on my site at http://jonkraatz.com/?p=109 The history of project Blue Ghost This was my very first airsoft gun, it started out as a well loved AK-74M manufactured by a Chinese company called CYMA. Sure it was cheap and poorly made but it was a portal into the wonderful sport of Airsoft. For me this is where it all began. This is where my love for tech and modifications was born. Encased in a cast zinc shell laid a set of greasy gears and dirty plastics, but I didn't care. This was a masterpeice in the making. For the next year and a half I would save up my hard earned money to buy shiny new parts for my rifle. I would make numerous mistakes and errors, but in the end I would learn my trade. The story of project Blue Ghost is the story of my path to becoming a Benchtech. Laying the groundwork When I first received my rifle in its generic cardboard box the first thing I did was tear it apart (much to the dismay of my parents). After closely examining each and every part and seeing how it interacted I had a rough understanding of the workings. I was able to put it back together with the exception of the hopup unit and took it to my local field for the first time. After the whirlwind of action and adrenaline which every airsofter experiences their first time I came to the conclusion that my beloved rifle needed some serious improvment. After much reaserch and learning valuble information on modifications such as shimming and AOE correction, I set to work on what would be soon known as Blue Ghost. Before I could start upgrading I had to improve what already existed. I stripped down the internals and grabbed an old toothbrush and some denatured alcohol. After I had scrubbed every part clean of grim I started the long and frustating process of leaning to shim. It took me half the day but I finally got the gears to satifactory levels. When I had completed every modification recommended on the online forums I religiously studied, I started onto the next step. . . upgrades. The long path of upgrades Finally the time had come, the moment that I had waited months for. Now that I had the groundwork laid and the money saved up I could finally start investing in some upgrades that would lead to real performance. After comparing nearly every brand of motor I settled on a set of SHS 13:1 gears, a Lonex A-1 (Balanced) motor, and a BAAL piston. Combined with a 11.1v Turnigy LiPo I had a seriously capable rifle. . . until it started screaching. Turns out a M90 spring isn't strong enough to propel the piston fast enough to keep it from crashing into the sector gear. Thankfully I didn't see the need to expoxy in the piston rack so it was ripped off and the sector gear was saved. Three pistons, five springs, one motor, and six months later I had a winning combo. With a Lonex HT motor, M110, and a SHS blue piston my build was looking promising. While the HT motor decreased ROF the trigger response and efficiency were very notably increased. I took this setup many times to my local field D14 but I was still not satisfied. Current setup and performance Blue Ghost has come along way, with it's polished gearbox and black oxide treated gears only the stock cylinder head hints of it's origin. The blue glass-fiber nylon piston along with being dead silent gives project Blue Ghost it's name. In the end I decided to keep the Lonex A-2 motor dispite having issues with Lonex motors in the past. To replace the deteriorating stock shell I decided to go with a polished zinc shell by Lonex. Along with the shell came a dark blue nylon fiber tappet plate and 8mm steel bearings. I also kept the SHS 13:1 gears although I plan to replace them with Siegetek 10:1 gears in the future. For the piston I chose the iconic SHS blue which is a favorite among techs. The piston came pre-swiss cheesed from a drillpress. All of the compression parts except the cylinder are stock CYMA, they haven't failed yet. To save the trigger contacts from arcing is a GATE Warfet 1.1 which has proved to be an invaluable upgrade. For range and accuracy at a decent price I chose a 455mm ZCI 6.03mm barrel, coupled with Maple Leaf bucking and H-hop nub. The ZCI barrel can hurl .28g bb's up to 400ft (at 400fps with .20g) but effective range is closer to 300ft. The rate of fire is about 28-30 rounds/sec maximum though I have it dialed down to 20 as I feel anything higher is unnecessary for skirmishes. In all this build cost far more than I care to think about but it was well worth it for the knowledge and experience. The countless hours and frustration put into this build gives this rifle special meaning. It's a well tuned piece of tech that never fails to turn heads, but more importantly it's somthing I can be proud of.
  3. Hey everyone, I'm new here in the forums but I started airsofting about six years ago. I stopped for the past two because it can get pricey but now that I'm out of school and working a decent job, I figured now is the best time to get into it. I have a VFC HK416c and I'm planning to do a relatively high speed build. (I ain't goin near a dsg build anytime soon) I would consider myself fairly advanced when it comes to working on aeg's as I've always been the go-to for my friends to fix or upgrade their guns including my own guns. I know my way around an AEG quite well and have spent countless hours researching and obsessing over this topic, however I am always looking for advice to continue learning and improving my skills as it's greatly appreciated! I'll start off with what I have and plan to use as the base to install my new parts into. -GB shell is the stock VFC shell it came with. I know those are fairly strong and it has 8mm steel bushings, not to mention I'm fairly proud of my radius(ing?) job. -Motor is a Lonex Orange high torque which I'm assuming will be great for ~400 fps and high rof. -Metal bearing spring guide, and stock cylinder from VFC. Now the parts I plan on purchasing as follows; -SHS 12.65:1 gears -SHS pinion gear -SHS lightweight 14t piston (with sorbo pads for aoe) -Lonex Pom piston head -Lonex aluminum cylinder head w/double o-rings -Lonex Pom nozzle -SHS nylon tappet plate -Prommy m110 -SHS ARL -Annnnd the cherry on top, a Gate Titan mosfet which I know have been proven to work on 50+rps dsg builds. I chose SHS for a lot of parts because they aren't pricey and are very widely used and accepted for similar builds along with the Lonex components I've picked. (Hopefully I'm not missing anything in the list) I feel confident in these parts, but I also feel like I've gravely over-looked something or that something in the list won't hold up to what I should expect. Also running an 11.1 lipo at 20c and 1100 MAh which I assume I should get one with a higher MAh rating, any recommendations are welcome. Again, any advice is greatly appreciated including parts that may cost a bit more but would be better in the long run, thank you! Edit: Grammar, formatting
  4. Hey. I'm just building some custom guns for anyone who's interested. Link the the google form, additional information there. https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdtt8prfAY-CMS1yJbDhM5Gv6tVR-ob4aejWxDnkvC4rGXc6w/viewform
  5. Hey guys, I'm trying to build a god tier AK. Unfortunately I suck at tech work, don't have many tools at my disposal and anything I ever try indepth on airsoft gearboxes is always an expensive disaster. Anyways I want to build the ultimate AK for field play and hopefully future ops. Here is my current build list, all from Airsoft GI: E&L AK-105 (my ideal AK, have owned 74Ms and a 74u, want something in between, already have multiple AK scope mounts, mags ect) $320 Madbull Ver. 2 Precision AEG Inner Barrel for M4 (363mm) $30 Airsoft GI Field Durability Upgrade Package $160 R-Hop Installation Service $60 Lonex A1 Infinite Torque-Up & High Speed Motor (Short) $55 Please critique, recommend and suggest edits to this setup!
  6. MortonJ1992

    Custom CM18 Mod1

    Hello, All! First off, thank you for taking the time to view this thread, and even more so if you decide to respond with any sort of advice. Now, I have fallen out of airsoft this year, due to getting engaged and trying to get set up for college and what not. BUT I'M MAKING A COME BACK! (; I have sold or given away %99 of my gear so I'm having to start from scratch. (which I'm actually okay with!) I have this oppurtunity to start a completely custom build based around a G&G Combat Machine Mod1. I am going with the blk/dust version. The reason why I have chosen this gun, is that I have owned a CM before and for being mainly polymer, they are surprisingly durable. And, all of the internals are going to end up being replaced anyways, so the stock parts are not important to me. At this point, you may be asking yourself, "Why doesn't he just buy a gun that is suiting aesthetically and already comes with decent internals?". This is a very good question, and I am glad that I decided to make you ask :D. Mainly, I want to have a %100 custom gun, completely put together by me. I feel that buying a gun right out, you don't get the emotional connection with your gun so you are more prone to get a year down the road and just sell it or trade it for something that you're going to end up doing the exact same thing with later down the road. Secondly, I have done a lot of research before making this decision, and finding a gun that I seem to come up with (IE the VFC Mod1, that only shoots like 320+/-, even though it is a $430 gun.) Yes, I do realize that fps isn't the biggest thing to look for in a gun, but I don't want to watch a person run away from my bb's before they even reach them. I also want to be able to both A. work well in cqb situations and B. also not compromise being able to reach out and tag someone from 200 ft. And finally, into the main point of this thread. Below, I am going to list all of the internal parts, along with a few external parts that I am planning on purchasing to make this gun worthy of my time. Please, feel free to put forth any opinions of advice (also offer a logical explanation of why you believe there should be a change) and I would love to go back and forth with some of you guys (and girls) on potential upgrades and such. So here goes: Internals: HOP UP UNIT: PROWIN M4 CNC HOPUP CHAMBER BUCKING: SYSTEMA HOPUP BUCKING MOTOR: GUARDER INFINITE TORQUE UP MOTOR (LONG) INNER BARREL: MADBULL BLACK PYTHON 6.03 TBB SPRING: JBU STEEL M120 HEAT TREATED SPRING GUIDE: SHS SUPER SHOOTER V3 PISTON: SHS SUPER SHOOTER 15 TOOTH PISTON HEAD: LONEX ALUMINUM VENTILATED NOZZLE: SHS AIR SEAL NOZZLE M4 ALUMINUM GEARS: SHS 32:1 SUPER SHOOTER ULTRA HIGH TORQUE Externals: STOCK: MAGPUL PTS CTR SIGHT: EOTECH REPLICA GRIP: MAGPUL PTS MOE FOREGRIP: MAGPUL AFG SILENCER: ALIEN AIRSOFT KAC QD SUPPRESSOR MAGPUL B.A.D. LEVER (FOR AESTHETIC PURPOSES ONLY) PEQ15 REPLICA
  7. philnastydog

    Functional Bolt Catch?

    I want to build an M4 from scratch and I was wondering how I could make the bolt catch and charging handle function? Like pull back on the charging handle, it exposes the hop up, then press the bolt catch and it closes.
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