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Found 49 results

  1. Hi Guys New to the forum, but I have not been able to find anyone else having a similar issue. I have a G&G GC16 Predator. I recently had an issue with the micro switch/mosfet setup where it spontaneously burst into flames through no fault of my own...... Anyway to get my gun running till I can afford a replacement I used a normal trigger switch for the m4 gearbox and rewired it as a temporary stop gap. The gun shoots, gearbox turns, bbs come out etc. Unfortunately it is stuck on semi only. I know that plenty of people have had trouble with the cut of lever and not engaging the trolley in the trigger group but I am having the opposite problem and cant figure it out. The cut of lever works and causes semi to happen, I can take out the cut off and have it on full auto only but I want the semi more with the option for full. The selector plate is the standard G&G one which doesn't have a copper piece on it, just plastic all the way over. The wire switch working with the trigger is a very basic on, it only has the 2 contacts that the blade on the trolley connects with. There are no contacts down the side of the switch that would contact the selector plate, is this possibly what is causing the lack of full auto option? Other than that I don't have an inkling, any advise welcome.
  2. Hey guys I just bought the G&G GC16 Wildhog. It's the best gun I ever had, but it shoots a bit slowly. Around 270 FPS with stock everything, and 0.25g BB's So I want to upgrade the spring, but it don't know what the factory spring is. Its not detailed anywhere. I'm afraid that I put a spring in so heavy, that the motor and the gearbox will take damage. Since I am new to the airsoft world, I am a bit nervous that I screw up. I am thinking putting a m100-m115 spring inside, does anyone know if thats safe to do? Cheers
  3. I was wondering if my G&G CM16-300 would have any issues with m120 springs or even m125 springs.
  4. G&G Comes with 2 midcaps, 1 hicap, lipo, krytac sdp converion kit, Valken red dot site Absolute beast for QCB about 300 fps Kwa 2 mags, propane adapter, really nice fitted quick draw holster. Recently completely overhauled at the kwa factory to make it work like new again Hearing offers on both, I'm about to move and quitting airsoft so I'm just trying to get them to a good home😉 Don't be afraid to make me an offer worst I can say is no. Just shoot me a text as I'm not super knowledable about forums 310-eight83-4four15 Not sure how to post pictures here but if you are interested just shoot me a text and I'll send you some photos. Both are really cool looking guns in nice condition.
  5. I want to install a mosfet on my gearbox but I do not know how to take apart the gun to take the gearbox out.
  6. I have an RK74T and the first time I used it the mosfet and etu burnt out and I want to know if that was an issue with the 11.1 battery that I was using.
  7. I am torn between which gun to purchase, I like the flashiness of the 118 but also the reliability(?) of the SRXL. Overall my main focus is on performance and usability. Also ive heard mixed reviews on both guns, such as APS' sometimes not-so-good history and the SRXL's bad motor and scratched paint/looseness. Also I was considering the SRXL with a free madbull barrel (up to $46 special along with the gun on evike.com). Overall what gun should I get? I play an assault like role, very rough and I also like to have some flare, but mostly I value reliability and accuracy over all. My budget is $200-$280 which should I get? or what other guns should I consider? Also I prefer M4s
  8. Hey! I just bought a G&G cm16 predator with mosfet. I was using it for a while and then it sounded like it got stuck in the gearbox. Clicking sounds were being emitted from my gearbox as I pull the trigger. Later on, my gun just stopped working entirely. I brought my gun to my local shop and concluded that my 25 amp blade type fuse was blown. I go to a auto store and get new fuses. When I come home, I put another 25 amp fuse into my gun. I plug in my 11.1 lipo and boom, the fuse was blown immediately. I don't know what's going on. Today I went back to the store and of course, they had to be closed because of an event. I am afraid to do anything else to my gun without screwing up completely until I get answers. Should I try higher fuse ampage? Is there something wrong with my wiring? Gearbox, motor? I have no clue. And my gun has been broken for about a month now.
  9. Hi, it's my first post after introduction and I was a little bit concerned that it wouldn't be the best first one, but I really need some opinions on my shortlist. First of all, I like M4, so most of them are this type o gun. I'm starting with airsoft and I want a flexible one, that I'll be able to keep for a long time and make upgrades. I don't have experience, but I'm open to learn how to make these upgrades in the future by myself. King Arms M4A1 CAA Custom CQB - R$1.596,00 (500 US$) APS M4 CQB R-Style ASR 103 - R$1.792,00 (560 US$) APS M4 RIS Style ASR 104 - R$1.439,00 (450 US$) ARES Amoeba M4 AM-008 - R$2.550,00 (796 US$) G&G CM16 Raider-L - R$1.706,00 (533 US$) Cybergun M4A1 CQB Colt - R$1.794,00 (560 US$) That's what I found and it's around my budget. The Ares one is the most expensive and needs to be really superior above the others. I've been told that the APS is the best one, specially about the gearbox, but I've found good things about the King Arms about being flexible and not heavy for CQB. I did shoot with de APS but the ASR 102 and I liked it. The prices are in brazilian currency, but I guess that it can give something about their value. But each 1US$ is about 3.2R$. Yeah, that sucks.
  10. Hi, I'm kinda new to Airsoft, I've only played Paintball. I own a Spyder MRX and as sidearm a KJW M9 (sounds crazy right? Having as sidearm an airsoft gun while playing paintball) But returning to the topic, I'm here because I'm choosing between a KJW M700 (Gas) and G&G M14 (AEG) I know that both replicas are different (bolt, and semi- full auto) but I will explain that later. I want to start as Sniper-DMR role. In my city, there's just one place to play airsoft, that place have four different fields, Woods, Urban, and two desert-themed. The woods field Is like 220ft long & 50-60ft wide, The urban field is like 180-220ft long and 60-160ft wide. The rest of the fields are pretty small. Note: this measurements aren't precise. Normally I'm shooting the other team members at 80-90 ft Max 150 ft Here is why I'm deciding between the KJW M700 and the G&G M14: I first ordered the kjw m700, but because I live in Mexico I needed to import it with the help of an importer. One day, I received the message that the rifle just arrived, I was so excited, but then the importer told me that he just noticed that he ordered the wrong rifle (G&G M14) and he just re-ordered the correct rifle (that was on feb 17) recently I sent a message to him asking for the KJW, and he told me that it hasn't arrived yet, and because of that, he offered me the G&G M14 (NEW) for the amount I paid for the KJW M700 (that's a good offer because the G&G is actually $80 more) There are few things you need to know: -I'm not planning to HPA the KJW, it's just way too expensive (plus importer fee) -For the KJW I only could buy a tightbore, a new striker spring, apple airsoft CO2 Mag and the essentials (Bipod, scope) -For the G&G I only could buy a m120 spring and the essentials (bipod mount, bipod, scope mount, scope) -I want my rifle to be able to shoot with precision with the upgrades I can afford and to be the best for the kind of fields in my city. -sometimes the fields are empty, so I would like that that rifle can take shots from the pyramid (red circle) to the other team zone in the woods (blue circle) see image It's probably that I'm moving to buffalo, tx in July-August. (Just for one or two years) There I will have the possibility of getting more upgrades, but I will focus more on getting a M200 (6mm pro shop) I will leave a photo of the fields. And the links to the replicas. -KJW http://www.evike.com/products/25036/ -G&G http://www.evike.com/products/28216/ Thanks
  11. Selling a G&G f2000 I got in a trade a while ago, and as I have gotten into CQB no longer want it. Features: Tan model Scoped version DMR-length tbb Machined aluminum rail Pardon the Image link, but here: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOqHrCnqzKpHJyxHJ4el7mvPOiAbOilV1EIJ86wFfjHu1pel8zSOVyIBSIkGYc_nQ?key=UE05S3ZadHpJbHpjM1RwRDd5TTJWcHgzZnVHekJn
  12. Looking to buy a G&G FNC. New or like new condition would be excellent but with pictures I would be pleased just to have one. Price will depend on condition/bells and whistles, although I would prefer something pretty stock. I have a G&G G960 that could be used as a trade piece if you are interested.
  13. Hello Everyone! Im not sure if anyone else has encountered this issue or not. I spent a few days trying to find Confederate/Rebel/southern battle flag patches . You cant find them on ebay or amazon as they have banned them. I just thought I would share this website that has them for a fair price nkotacticalstore.squarespace.com My patches arrived pretty fast and looked great when they got here!
  14. Hello everyone I need help to upgrade the fps on my weapon g&g CM16, this are the upgrades the weapon already have: -Mad bull Black Python tight bore inner barrel 6.03mm (407mm) -Prometheus Neo strike Hop up Chamber -Prometheus Soft Bucking -Lonex A-1 motor -AOE Corrected -Prometheus ms120 -SHS cylinder type 0 Right now with the prometheus m120 spring my gun is around 380 fps and I want a little bit more, after reading this guide (http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/topic/97249-aeg-upgrading-guide/) (awesome guide) this is the list of the upgrades I'm thinking to buy: -SHS 8mm bushings (http://www.evike.com/products/46930) -Prometheus m135 (http://www.evike.com/products/32454) -Lonex Bearing Spring guide (http://www.evike.com/products/35848) -Lonex Red Piston (http://www.evike.com/products/37851) -Guarder Cylinder Head (http://www.evike.com/products/26505) -Lonex Polycarbonate pistonhead (http://www.evike.com/products/44787) -Guarder infinite torque gears (http://www.evike.com/products/27212) (not sure if my stock g&g gears can handle that spring) I'm open to suggestions, I'm not sure if the gears, piston or piston head are the best choice or if I need to upgrade something else in the gearbox to handle a prometheus m135 spring thanks in advance!
  15. Hello all. I am using a G&G F2000 with G&G's 120rd polymer mid cap magazines. Semi auto shoots fine but full auto consistently dry fires. 5 blanks to 1 bb about. The magazine seem to fit fine and I can't seem to tell a difference between how they and the stock hi cap sit in the magwell. The stock High cap that came with the gun does however work perfectly so I am led to believe it is something about the mid caps. Is it possible full auto cycles too fast for the magazine's spring to keep up? Both the gun and the magazines are brand new. I am hoping to be able to find some fix for these mid caps as it is hard to find mid caps that work with the F2000, that darn gearbox screw. Are there any other things I can do to test what may be the exact problem? Thank you for your time.
  16. Hi everyone, first of all I'm a noob upgrading my AEG so please go easy if what I'm asking is stupid My weapon is an G&G CM M16 raider with a Mad Bull tight Barrel 6.03mm and I want to change the stock hop up chamber for a Prometheus NEO striker chamber, after reading I saw that the chamber evike is selling DOES NOT come with the main turn gear and striker. The question is can I use my stock striker and gears from my weapon or I'll have to buy new ones and if that's the case are the matrix from evike any good? and a quick question: I'm looking to increase range and accuracy for my weapon with 400-420 fps, should I go with a soft or hard bucking? after reading some forums some say to stick with the soft bucking for an AEG under 500 fps or while using an spring M120 or lower. AEG link: http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=16&products_id=33557 Chamber link: http://www.evike.com/products/29495/ Bucking link: http://www.evike.com/products/31081 and this is a link of a video showing my stock hop up chamber: Thanks in advance!
  17. hey there, I have 60 ish usd to buy one for a new build throw me an offer in the comments as I need one asap.
  18. hey there, I have 60 ish usd to buy one for a new build throw me an offer in the comments as I need one asap.
  19. Hey, guys I recently purchased this gun and loved it. G&G M4 Carbine Special Editions M16 Combat Machine Airsoft AEG Rifle http://www.evike.com/products/32676 Its good and all but it doesn't reach my expectations. So, I am looking for some internal upgrades that improve accuracy and range, maybe fire rate too. One of my friends has the same rifle I used before I started getting serious with airsoft. He said he just had some basic internals. So, I am looking for the same thing. I am looking for something cheap and useful. Go ahead and post and internals with any price that is compatible with this gun. NOTE: I'm not really sure this matters but this m4 is compatible with almost any M4 gearbox, like blowback and gas. It's also my first airsoft gun, So I'm willing to go crazy with it.
  20. hey guys im sorta new to airsoft. I recently picked up a cm16 raider cqb version. I would like to upgrade it to shot within 380 to 400 and change some outside things. im thinking about upgrading the following- spring- motor- gearbox- inner barrel-(adding mock suppressor to the outside) outer barrel- (adding mock suppressor to the outside) sights- if you know anything about what I should get please help. if I don't need anything on this list let me know. if you make a suggestion try to make it available on evike.com thank you so much
  21. I just got a G&G combat machine and I would like to upgrade it. My budget is 100$. I play at an indoor cqb field and I already have 370 fps so I do not need to upgrade my spring, but I would like a slightly higher rof. (without buying many high speed parts) BTW, I usually go to a semi/burst only field. Here are the parts I have been looking at: Lonex A1 http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=745_31_50&products_id=12468 16:1 gear set http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=745_31_49&products_id=14821 Piston http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=12409 Mosfet http://www.evike.com/products/49578/ Can I please have some advise on taking apart my gun/putting it back together? This is my baby and do not want it to break. Thanks! P.S. What size bushings does my gun take? I'm pretty sure 8mm but I don't know.
  22. I’ve accumulated way too many things so it’s time to get rid of them. I can get more photos/details/etc. for those who are seriously interested. I may also throw in extras relevant to the stuff that is bought as I clear out a bunch of things. NO TRADES (unless you have a Laylax G3 EBR stock) NO PARTING OUT Prices are SHIPPED (which means I eat the PayPal fees and shipping costs) First up is a Classic Army M15a4 with a Polarstar Jack installed (no mags). $425 - The bucking was replaced with a Guarder 50 degree bucking. - A QD sling attachment was added which adds a little over an inch to the overall length, but can be removed if you don’t want it. - Upper receiver tabs had some electrical tape applied to them to stop the wobble and is solid now. - A Redline grip connect and straight trigger are also installed. - FCU is wired for JST connectors. Gun has some wear around the main body and the bolt catch is missing. The biggest problem with this is that you will need a new trigger board since I accidentally ripped off the black lever that is tripped by the selector plate. Before that little mishap it worked just fine. Second is a KWA (unsure of exact model) base with a V2 Gen 3 FE installed. $550 - Pretty much comes with what you see (no mags). - FE has a bored out red nozzle + red poppet, and the barrel is an ORGA. - Shimmed the stock with some electrical tape to eliminate some wobble. - Added a G&P QD attachment plate. - FCU is wired for deans. Most of the gun was painted at one point, and has worn in since then. Not the most amazing of paintjobs, but if you’re someone who wants to improve on it then this is something worthwhile. At one point the FCU wires came off and were resoldered back on and taped up. Aside from the ‘meh’ paint job and wear on the gun the only thing that I can say is problematic is that the dust cover latch broke so it is constantly open. Third is a G&G UMG with a V3 Gen 3? FE installed. $600 - Comes as you see it as well as 3 extra G&G hi-cap mags (total of 4). - FE has a red nozzle, Amped grip line, and blade trigger installed. - Has a Madbull barrel that extends into mock suppressor, G&G green bucking, and has been r-hopped complete with m-nub (this thing shoots lasers). - FCU is wired for JST connectors. Most of the body is in pretty good shape except for two areas. The top of the stock hinge and one of the front tabs got chipped off during shipping when I first got it but does not affect function. I had to tape the mag release pin in because it kept slipping out. Aimpoint M2 replica sight also needs new batteries to work. The mags also have two strips of tape on the back to keep them seated properly so they can feed. One small quirk about this is that you cannot flip it to semi and use it right away. You have to flip it to auto and then semi to get it to work which is odd. Fourth is a Snow Wolf Barrett (long version) with a V2 Gen 1 FE installed. $500 - Brand new 650mm Madbull barrel with flat hop mod installed. - Red nozzle installed. - Scope is a 3-9x40mm. - Two 7.4V LiPo batteries wired for deans. - FCU is wired for deans as well. This thing was a bit beat up looking until I gave it a coat of flat black paint. I highly recommend a new bucking as I tore the one installed. I have it patched up with some teflon tape and the FPS is consistent, but it would be best to get a new one to save yourself any possible headaches (maybe a new hop up too as the G&P one is super tight). I did a few mods to stabilize the inner barrel so don’t be scared if you see something that looks weird. Currently won’t feed properly (unless I manually feed) so I will be swapping the o-rings, applying fresh lube, and doing what I can to get it fixed in the meantime. Another G&G UMG for sale, although this one is an AEG. $300 G&G UMG mock suppressor - R-hopped and M-nubbed Prometheus barrel with G&G green bucking (extends into mock suppressor). - Gearbox has been cleaned, reshimmed, and relubed (otherwise stock aside from deans connectors). - Shooting around 370FPS with .28s with a ROF of around 13RPS. Package comes with a total of four G&G hi-caps, foregrip, red/green holographic sight, smart charger with adapters, small stick battery (wired for small tamiyas though), and a Gate AAB mosfet which was for one of my other guns but it didn't work so I'm just throwing it in as a bonus. Doesn't look damaged or anything, but who knows. Haven't actually fielded this one so I can't say anything about the range, but a better motor and a mosfet would probably be the only things you really need in this thing. Gun has light wear and the only issues are that it is missing the right side short rail piece and the mock suppressor puts up a small fight when you're trying to get it off. http://imgur.com/QhVpXNw http://imgur.com/0KJsuHP http://imgur.com/l9f04SK Accessories - Five King Arms midcaps – These will go to the first purchaser of either the Classic Army M15a4 or KWA M4. - Empire 48CI/3000PSI tank (dated 2/13) with regulator – Add for $90 to any purchase or $100 by itself (priority will be given to those buying as package). - Blue M4 nozzle, stock black poppet, and white shim – These will go to the first purchaser of either the KWA M4 or Snow Wolf Barrett. - Two 80CF/2500PSI? SCUBA tanks with a Ninja fill station – These will be sold LOCALLY ONLY and I am willing to drive partway to complete the transaction. Both tanks were hydro’d and VIP’d last September and are still good to go. $225 Again, I can get more photos/details/etc. since I may have missed something as I had a lot to list. Please do not hesitate to ask me any questions. Thanks!
  23. I have been looking at a G&G Combat Machine M4 with RIS. Is it good? I am looking for a gun with 360-400 FPS, pretty fast rof, and I need it to be DURABLE, RELIABLE, and can withstand dropping and bumping around. The durablity is the key thing here. My last two 200$ AEGs have broken in the last month by dropping, or randomly after shooting about 20 bbs the motor disconnects and gearbox locks. I am going to a CQB place and range doesn't really matter but weight really does. Is this gun light? Thank you in advance and happy to see the results!
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