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Found 16 results

  1. I need help figuring out if I can place a real steel G36C Cheek riser stock onto the G39C. Im planning to buy a WE G39C for a cheaper and a fun way to train with my buddies but I also want to use it as closely as possible to my real steel T36. I did research and learned that WE made the G39C basically a complete replica so figured it would work?
  2. A few rules about this sale: * The only payment that I will take is through PayPal. * I do not ship first but will ship immediately once payment is received. * If you have stuff to trade, please post or send me an offer & picture. * Prices do not include shipping costs. First item: Echo1 Scar-L (Advanced Squad MK16 Carbine Light) This gun I had received in a trade and hasn’t been used in the field, only test fired. It has a slight crack in the stock that has been repaired but doesn’t impede on its functionality. Fully stock except wired to a Deans connector including the battery. Comes with 1 Noveske 450rd mag, 1050mAh 7.4v Lipo and 1100mAh 8.4v NiMH small type battery. 370fps Price: $125 OBO. Slight crack that has been repaired. Second item: Evike Metal body SOCOM 47 (SR-47) This gun has an Echo 1 M4 gearbox installed, stock internals. Wired to the back with a Deans connector, ICS stock, Magpul MOE grip, LaRue Tactical 10” RIS, Magpul flip-up sights (Front one is OD and the rear one is black), LaRue 14” outer barrel, stock Echo 1 M4 inner barrel, flat hopped with known bucking, AIMS Sports vertical grip, Evike Flash 450rd hicap mag, Brand new Lonex A1 Hi-torque motor, 380fps. No battery included. Price: $200 OBO Third item: Umarex Licensed H&K G36C Competition This gun is basically stock except wired to a Deans connector. Stock barrel R-hopped with M-nub and flat bucking. Comes with an BattleAxe M4 magwell but no M4 mags. Also, the stock G36c magwell with the 450rd mag included. Side rails are not shown in picture but will include them on final sale. Finally, it has a vertial Stubby Grip, 350fps. No battery included. Price: $100 OBO
  3. I'm upgrading my JG G-608 and want to move battery to the stock (front wiring space doesn't have much space), don't want to have to keep using mock PEQ box. Is it something I need to do inside the gearbox, or can I just extend the wiring and route them along the outside of the shell and out the rear? I will have to modify a piece (drill out) to do it, but this seems like a better option for me.
  4. Hi! I just bought G36C (CM011). It has around 350 FPS. MAX FPS for my country is around 400, just a bit above. Of course I would like to reach max fps, what would I need to change? Ok I know I need m120 spring, but from the rest, what I would need to change to get better results and protect my gun from unexpected broken parts? any suggestions? Thanks!
  5. Selling thses things, we-tech g36 ras aeg bought from Taiwan of $240 and vfc mp7 mag bought from evike of $55. Become busy and have less time to play so if u like these I will sell at $185 for G36 with battery case and extra mag, $45 for mp7 mag totaly new, and all include shipping. If u but them both, the price is 220 includ shipping. Contact me here or my phone: 8138040762 thank you!
  6. Selling thses things, we-tech g36 ras aeg bought from Taiwan of $240 and vfc mp7 mag bought from evike of $55. Become busy and have less time to play so if u like these I will sell at $185 for G36 with battery case and extra mag, $45 for mp7 mag totaly new, and all include shipping. If u but them both, the price is 220 includ shipping. Contact me here or my phone: 8138040762 thank you!
  7. hey guys so I just build a very nice gb with some spare and new parts. I put everything together with a nano ssr mosfet, dual signal setup with included wires, with 16 awg wire. new trigger contacts shs piston, pistonhead that came with it, double O-ring cylinder head, double O-ring air nozzle, stock cyma cylinder, maple leaf 75 degree bucking, madbull 6.03 407mm tightbore, ics gears, shimmed perfect except for bevel gear which is tight on pinion gear, perfect compression and aoe. sounds great (except for b-p shimming as I stated before). oh and the motor is a cyma high torque modified. I see sparks directly under the plastic bell. is this normal????? I modified the motor as in the male connector broke off so I had to use another bell off of another CYMA motor. could this have caused the sparks?? or do I need a new motor???
  8. Rules: -For purchase, PayPal or FTF only. -Shipping will be USPS unless you request otherwise. -All items described as accurately as possible. -Once items leave my hands they are no longer my responsibility. -When trading, unless you have equal or more feedback, you ship first. If feedback is equal or more, arrangements can be made to ship same day. -Prices are negotiable, but be reasonable. ------------ Trades considered: M4 style GBBR M4 style recoil AEG (KWA ERG, TM recoil shock, etc) Anything else that interested me ------------ Up for sale is my WE G39C. If you are at all privy to the current goings-ons with the HK world, these guns (at least the WE variant) are no longer available new from retailers (thank you Umarex). That being said, what I have is a lightly modified example of WE's best and most notorious GBBR. Internally the gun is now as solid as the externals are. The gun has the following parts installed: Angel custom 6.01mm X 250mm tightbore barrel Upgraded hopup bucking (reaps I believe) Angel custom steel trigger Angel custom steel sear Angel custom steel hammer with roller Brand new OE trigger bar Brand new OE selector cam Brand new OE selector gears In addition to these parts already installed on the gun, I will also include the original selector bar, gears, and a second hopup unit. I also modified the bolt lock to function like the real one, locking the bolt back when you press the catch, as opposed to it being used as a bolt release. With all these awesome things about the gun, there has to be a downside, right? Well the only bad thing I can say about the gun is the paintjob and the "stippling". This was all done by the previous owner and it is actually a layer of black paint overtop a layer of white/tan paint. I attempted to strip everything off back down to the bare polymer, but it just wasnt going to happen without damaging the polymer, so the paint job stays. Anyways, down to business... The gun will come with 4 non-leaky mags. 2 mags maintain full functioning (I.e. with bolt lock function on last round, and all tabs to lock mags together..these are the 2 with the bullet print outs in them) while the other 2 have the bolt lock levers removed (by previous owner...no idea why) and the locking tabs have been broken. The one mag that is wrapped in tape had the broken tabs cut off so it fits in a standard m4 mag pouch, however all mags function flawlessly, and replacement bolt lock parts for the 2 mags are readily available (and cheap). I would put the sale price at around $350 + shipping. What I am looking for in a trade is a working, good condition GBBR M4 style rifle (to include HK 416 and 417 models), with at least 2-3 non-leaky mags. I will also consider a working good condition M4 style recoil AEG (again, 416 and 417 models are welcomed), with mags, or anything else that sounds good to me at the time. As with anything I sell, offers are always welcome and everything is negotiable to a point. If you are interested, feel free to shoot me an offer! I will entertain all offers and the worst I can say is no.
  9. I recently picked up a used JG G36 and right away did some maintenance on the gearbox. I haven't been able to assemble it yet, and in attempting to do so I broke the spring guide. I noticed that the piston is chipped a bit at the end of the teeth groove on the head side. (The teeth are fine, but the piston is chipped next to the last metal tooth on the head end of the piston.) How recommended is it that I replace more than the spring guide? In other words, should I do a cylinder set complete purchase? Below is what I will purchase if so, and what should I add or subtract? Thanks! SHS Airsoft Nylon Piston & Aluminum Piston Head W/ Ball Bearings Full Steel Teeth 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 $10.99$10.99 SHS Airsoft Version 3 Aluminum AEG Cylinder Head 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 $9.95$9.95 SorboPad for V2/V3, 3/16" Thickness, 40 (Soft) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 $4.95$4.95 G&G Armament Super-Lube Gear Grease for AEG 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 $7.82$7.82 ICS Airsoft Silicone Oil Spray 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 $6.95$6.95 Super Shooter Ball Bearing Spring Guide For Version 3 Airsoft AEG Gearbox 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 $11.99$11.99 SHS/Super Shooter Airsoft M110 For PTW/DTW/CTW AEG Spring 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 $6.99$6.99 M4 Magwell Conversion for JG608 Series AEGs 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 $8.95$8.95 Elite Force M4/M16 Mid-Cap Rifle Magazine, Black, 140 Rds
  10. ​Have you ever had the problem of a g36 gearbox breaking down, or you wanted to purchase a v3 gearbox shell to put into a g36? Well this guide will teach you how to do exactly that. WARNING: THIS GUIDE IS FOR INTERMEDIATE AND ABOVE TECHS. ​ ​What you will need: G36 safety latch cover , g36 trigger assembly or SPEED trigger assembly , g36 tappet plate, g36 selector plate. g36 wiring harness. (I haven't seen yet a g36 with a wire set up like an ak), a g36 motor cage and a short type motor the wire holder (optional) . ​g36 air nozzle (optionaly you can use the specific g36 cylinder head along with this for maximum performance) The selector switch assembly and the selector latch from a g36. ​First step. Get your g36 gearbox that broke down. Then get your v3 gearbox of your choosing. (this is for most but not all g36's as in a kwa may not work due to some proprietary parts (they have jg parts on evike so it's all good.)) ​Second, unscrew the safety latch cover from the g36 gb. put it on the v3 as shown in the first photo. there may be compatibility issues due to the corner being too tall for the v3 gearbox. ive fixed that by adding a longer screw in the middle.. I will be dremelling it down later Step 3: add the selector plate as shown in photo 3 above. I recommend taking off the COL (cut off lever) beforehand to make it much easier. Step 4: take your gearset. shim it (of course). Step 5: wire the gun to the wiring harness so that there is no confusion in the future. Step 6: Put gun together. There you have it. something I and many other v3 gb techs have been wondering for years how to do until I made a breakthrough today.
  11. ​Hey guys I was just wondering how I could wire my g36 to a nanossr GATE mosfet??? I tried looking EVERYWHERE. nothing comes up except some French guy on youtube. I was thinking of wiring it through the handguard and putting the deans connector outside of the handguard directly on top of where the end of the barrel is and putting a homemade aluminum battery box on the outside. but idk if that'll work. and I prefer the battery staying in the handguard. (It's a jg g36c hybrid btw)
  12. Budget - £100 - £200 I play a mixture of CQB and Field so a high FPS would be good but 330 FPS is the maximum I can have as any more is banned from my local CQB site. I really like the look of the G36 or G36C AEGs but have no idea which brand to choose or where to find a good quality one. Any recommendations?
  13. Hey everyone. I've got a small problem with my gun that I keep experiencing, and I can't quite figure out what's causing it yet. I've built a DMR(specs at bottom), and after about 300 shots or so, it just absolutely stops working. It's done this a few times, with both my Lonex A1 Titan HT motor, and the Matrix 3000 HT motor. Scenario Today: I was playing in a small city type area at my local field, staying towards the back of my team keeping an eye out for enemies popping up/moving to better protect my allies and their closing of the gap. After 3 games on Semi-Auto, which was roughly 300(3 mags) shots or so, my rifle suddenly became unresponsive. I then continued with my pistol, and called it quits after the last match as it started raining a bit too hard. When I say my rifle became unresponsive, I mean absolutely nothing happened when I pulled the trigger. There was no heat emanating from the handle, no click sounds when I pulled the trigger, no vibrations of any parts trying to move when I pulled the trigger, and certainly no shooting. I tried switching back and forth between safety, full, and semi, shooting in between, but still nothing happened. It was suddenly just dead in the water! I feel like this could be a battery issue, but I'm not certain as I don't have a spare that is Deans to use on it. I checked the fuse, and otherwise wiring to make sure everything is where it should be, and it was all as normal as ever. Do you have any guesses as to what's going on, or any way I can narrow it down further? I am happy to say, I solved my fogging issues between Revision wipes, open vents all around my goggles, and Cyclone Mike fan pumping air into my goggles. DMR Info: JG G36(k) Madbull Python Black 6.03mm tightbore 510mm W-Hold Bucking for now... Flat-Hop soon with proper Nub SHS HopUp Lonex Gearbox Shell High Torque Gears(26:1 Helical)(shimmed very well) High Torque Titan A1 Lonex Motor(also own a Matrix 3000 HT) Matrix M150 Spring AIM Hellfire Piston(polymer, but steel teeth) Hawk Arms Double ORing Piston head(I have my Guarder on the way that I may switch back to) Aluminum Air Nozzle w/Oring Aluminum Cylinder Head w/ Double Oring Full Cylinder Angel Custom Low Resistance Wiring Deans Connectors 11.1v 1500mah 20c Firefox LiPo
  14. I have a We G39 Ras gbb rifle that has an npas, a G&P eotech with killflash, an ncstar scope, and a bipod. Im looking to trade for any kind of Gbb you have especially smgs and glocks. Pm me or post if you are interested.
  15. My friend is running an ARES SL9 with a M140 spring, stock ARES gears, a JG High-torque, and a Tokyo Marui Ver. 3 motor cage. However, the motor height keeps coming loose every few hundred rounds and we either have to have a tech adjust the height or do on the field adjustments. What are your methods and strategies to make sure the motor height on guns stay as they should be? We've considered using permanent lock-tite, but the fact that the motor height will be forever unadjustable sounds to us like a serious drawback. What are your opinions on using locktite to keep in place motor height?
  16. Title says it all, looking for We G39 mags and accessories. Paypal only. Thanks
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