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Found 20 results

  1. So I installed a BTC Spectre Mk.II in my high speed (~32rps) build M4 and I was using a FireFox 30c 11.1v LiPo. Although, I am having the problem of the motor getting very warm after a few shots and bursts of full auto. I don't think this is normal and would anyone know what is wrong? If so what would I need to get, a new motor (currently using SHS High Torque) or a 30-60c high discharge LiPo or is it something else?
  2. Recently bought a long ZCI Balanced Motor off of Brill Armory. Meant to order a ZCI High Torque, but I messed up, so if anyone wants it for $25, or $30 shipped, let me know. The motor is basically brand new (maybe 100 dry fire shots to test it out), and has an SHS pinion on it. I can send you pictures and videos of it if you are skeptical. The motor was delivered yesterday and I only opened it today. PM for details
  3. So I've spent some time searching for the magnets that are used in airsoft motors. Particularly, the neodymium magnets. However, this has been to no avail so I thought I'd go to you all in my quest. A very cheap motor can be made into a pretty high performance motor with just upgraded magnets so a low-cost source of neo magnets that fit the motor cans would be pretty awesome. For reference, these are the dimensions of a stock magnet I've got: OD: 27.5mm ID: 20mm Height: 32mm Width: ~22mm where OD=inner diameter of motor can, ID=inner diameter of magnets firmly seated in motor can, Height=height of magnet in the direction of the motor shaft, and Width=width of magnet from flat side to flat side (the part that sits against the non-round portion of the motor can). What I have found are magnets from this supplier: https://www.apexmagnets.com/magnets/motor-magnets However, none of the magnets listed are particularly close to the size needed. I've also found a reddit article where a guy got some neo magnets custom manufactured, but it was a one-shot deal and the cost of 3-4 neo motors: https://www.reddit.com/r/airsoft/comments/3kppgp/custom_motor_magnets/ And I've found that FireStorm Systems sells them (or sold them at one time - they've been out of stock for who knows how long): http://www.firestormsystems.com/shop/gearbox-parts/custom-n52-aeg-motor-magnets.html I'm not sure how neo magnets are manufactured, but I'd imagine there are few enough manufacturers out there to where a single manufacturer supplies magnets to multiple motor manufacturers. I'm wondering what the economy of scale would be to have a few hundred or thousand of them made for resale. I'm not sure the number of people who do Frankentorque motors is large enough to be able to sell that sort of quantity... So, anyone have any clue where such magnets might be found right now for a reasonable price?
  4. Hello, I'm new here and I just recently started getting back into airsoft, I'll spare you the details. As, hinted by the title my main and only AEG is the Lancer Tactical LT-11B and all parts are stock. The issue I've had is it no longer fires. I made sure the 8.4 volt battery was fully charged, disconnected my motor from my gear box, this made the motor spin. When I reconnect my motor to my gear box it runs the motor, I can hear it, but it won't turn the gears. The next thing I did was unlock the gearbox by lifting up on the anti-reversal latch. This released some tension, but when I reconnected the motor still nothing happened. After that, I borrowed a friend's 9.6 volt battery and the gun fired. I only fired a few shots because I didn't want to break anything. I plugged my own 8.4 volt battery back in but it still didn't work. My next thought was to disassemble the Version 3 gear box and clean it. I found a few small pieces of plastic and removed those, although that didn't seem to be a problem before. A couple weeks later I borrowed my friends 9.6 volt battery again and played for a couple hours on it with no hiccups. TL;DR After doing some troubleshooting I have determined that a 9.6 volt battery will run my gun, but an 8.4 volt battery won't. My question: should I buy a 9.6 volt battery for my gun and would it be safe to use it long term.
  5. I have a krytac spr mk 2 and I wanna put in a m120 or m125 spring. What is needed to make sure the gun wont break itself after the upgrade ? the bushings are metal atleast they look like it. So maybe a high torque motor and gears too ? idk it would be my first attempt at upgrading.
  6. I ordered an APS Boar Tactical Advanced Edition EBB AEG a few months ago. It has been used twice in proper games and that is it. It has been kept and maintained well. Recently the charging handle has become disconnected (it seems) from the plate that blows back every time you shoot. The plate now no longer blows back as if it is not connected to a spring anymore and is loose and the charging handle inst connected to anything (it seems). THIS IS ONLY THE START. Also something has serious issues within the gun. It wont shoot consistently. The motor makes a sound like it is trying to shoot but then it doesn't, and every now and again it might shoot like twice but then it goes back to that noise that sounds like its stuck. Im not too familiar with fixing thee guns so I would greatly appreciate any help or trouble shooting I could get. I bought the gun off Evike.com and I have contacted APS who never got back to me and evike was not much help so I thought I would come to you guys!
  7. Ok so here is my problem, The gun fires and will cycle about 5-15 times perfectly fine and then the next shot the gun either doesn't fire at all or the motor sounds like it starts to turn but then stops. If I take the bottom of the motor grip off and let the motor raise, you can here it set like a very faint click and then im able to put it back in and begin firing again. it never half cocked the gearbox but just wont turn over sometimes. if I bump the bottom of the gun by the motor grip or on the motor grip with my hand im able to fire another 1-2 shots and then it locks again. I'm usually able to diagnose issues quickly but this one is really stumping me the past month.
  8. Hello I'm looking at internal upgrades for my m4 and wanted to know if I were to purchase the following items, roughly what rps I might get with a 9.6v 1600mah.AND if I could run an 11.1 lipo and not shred the gun in 2 seconds. I'll also be re-shimming the gun. Thanks for the help! SHS 13:1 high speed gears https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004UI53SC/ref=oh_aui_i_sh_pre_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1 SHS high speed long motor https://goo.gl/kYCAJY M90 Spring(I play cqb and my gun is shooting pretty hot) https://goo.gl/xWqGxE
  9. Hi to all, I have a Marui Sig552 that I’m very satisfied! I did make my preparator this upgrade: - Precision barrel 6.02 - Spring (do not exactly know what spring) and now shot at 0.92J - Reinforced gear of sector and central (conic I leave the original Marui) still at 18:1 - Piston with 1^ teeth reinforced (Maybe not all piston… ) - Head piston for high roof Now my rifle is very affidable and shot about 17-18 BB/sec at 0.92J with LiFe 9.9v So, the motor was not upgraded… And the rof is not very high…. I want avoid LiPo 11.1v because my piston have only 1^ teeth reinforced and not all teeth… So…. Do you thing change motor can be a valid option??? Now is present the original one, Marui EG1000! I suppose I can mount a high speed or super high speed because I have 18:1 gear and a not very hard spring… 1) What motor I can mount it? 2) I risk to destroy my piston 3) What kind of length motor I can mount? I see my motor but I do not understand what kind is it: Is not very long but not very short… There is a middle length for EG1000? Anyone Know exactly what length mount Marui-Sig-552? Many thanks!!!
  10. I just got a G&G combat machine and I would like to upgrade it. My budget is 100$. I play at an indoor cqb field and I already have 370 fps so I do not need to upgrade my spring, but I would like a slightly higher rof. (without buying many high speed parts) BTW, I usually go to a semi/burst only field. Here are the parts I have been looking at: Lonex A1 http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=745_31_50&products_id=12468 16:1 gear set http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=745_31_49&products_id=14821 Piston http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=12409 Mosfet http://www.evike.com/products/49578/ Can I please have some advise on taking apart my gun/putting it back together? This is my baby and do not want it to break. Thanks! P.S. What size bushings does my gun take? I'm pretty sure 8mm but I don't know.
  11. [question]please!! I wonder. High TPA = high torque? With common sense, High TPA = high torque To know. Is not it? Is that correct? (Right / wrong) It will be one of two things. Anyway, I would like to know logically why. What fits right side, If wrong, why wrong I wonder. Lonex A1 / Schwarz-Rot / Neo / 14TPA / 20AWG A2 / Schwarz-Orange / Neo / 15TPA / 21AWG A3 / Schwarz-Blau / Neo / 16TPA / 22AWG Systema Magnum /Schwarz-Rot / Neo / 14.5 TPA / 20AWG / Systema's Neo Magneten sind die stärksten! Tokyo Marui (Achtung: Polarität oft vertasucht!) EG700 / Schwarz-Schwarz / Ferrous / 20TPA / 20AWG EG1000 (Schwarz-Blau) / Ferrous / 22TPA / ??AWG ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ lonex,systema<----Why tpa lower than the TM eg1000? So 'EG1000' This will be stronger? If not, lonex,systema is special case? If not, I obtained data errors? Trusted information, Pictures, charts, etc. I want. Answers I'll wait
  12. I have a Classic Army Sportline M15A4 and have already replaced the bushings with metal ones and the gears with more durable ones (after they got stripped). I bought an SHS irregular pitch m130 spring but when I put it in, the gears would lock up, so I decided just to use the stock spring for a while longer. I used it until the battery died, so now I figure I'll get the new motor with the battery. I just have a few questions about the parts I should buy: -What motor should I buy to go with the M130 spring? I'm pretty sure the stock CA Sportline one doesn't work because it locked up. I've been looking at the SHS High Torque. -What battery specs should I look for? My Tenergy 9.6v 10C 1600 mAH was working fine until it died, but I don't know if I should get a stronger one for the spring. -Should I get a sorbo pad/ different piston head to reduce stress on the sportline gearbox (still metal) with the m130? If so which ones do you recommend? -After I messed with the gearbox the first time, the gun started making a kind of annoying screech when I fire it (not too bad, but noticable when firing). I followed a shimming guide so I don't think I shimmed the gears wrong, so I was going to try and re-grease the gears. What grease should I use? I have some all-purpose Lithium grease lying around. I also don't think its an issue with motor height since I haven't changed it.
  13. So, I am building an m4 DMR, here is my parts list: PDI 6.08 469mm barrel ER-hop Nukefet MOSFET 25-50cc 11.1v LiPo wired to deans 13:1 ratio gears (should I get seigetek 10:1s?) A frankentorque motor (if I can find the chaoli motor/armature) and an m140 spring. What kind of hop-up/bucking should I get? and the gears are stock aim top m4 gears, will they break? What will this be accurate to if I do everything well? Aiming for 450FPS.
  14. Not entirely sure if this falls under the category of a motor issue, but eh. It has to do with the motor. (Just previewed the post, I apologise in advance for the pictures being as small as they look, I had to shrink them a lot so they'd both fit the upload limit). Now, so far I'm certainly liking this gun. However, if fired on full-auto for a few bursts, the gun stops working and the trigger just clicks (NOT the gearbox) when you pull it. The same happens when quickly firing in semi-auto, but it takes a lot longer for it to happen. So after having it happen the first time, I took the receiver apart and this is what I found: I tried it a few more times after reconnecting the wire and it disconnects itself consistently. I haven't been able to find anything about it (mainly due to not being exactly sure on what to look for), However, one of my friends just suggested using a pair of pliers to clamp the connecter down tighter so it can't vibrate off of the motor. I would like to get the opinions of a few more people before doing anything to it, though. So, any ideas? Any help is much appreciated :D
  15. So, I am thinking about building a DSG with an insane ROF and standard CQB FPS. Is there anything that is going to blow up with this setup? 16 AWG low resistance wiring GATE nanoABB 3rd Gen MOSFET http://www.evike.com/products/47824/ Deans SHS Trigger contacts 6mmproshop high speed high torque motor http://www.evike.com/products/51834/ or the Tienly version of this RiotSC DSG 8 tooth 10:1 gearset short stroked to 330ish fps m170 spring 250mm 6.01mm tightbore barrel lonex 70 degree soft bucking Lonex 15 tooth piston shortstroked and swiss cheesed. Tappet plate modified for DSG Shim job, Radiused gearbox and re-greased with white lithium grease. (the gun comes with good AOE as it is, so long as the new piston doesn't mess it up.) BOLT 65-130 CC 5400 MAH 11.1v LiPo everything else that comes stock in this gun http://www.evike.com/products/42392/ Will this blow up? If so why? Will the motor burn out with that spring? Will the lack of Sorbo and neoprene break the front of the gearbox? Should I not short stroke DSG gears? I wanted to use the m170 to avoid pre-engagement. What would the RPS look like? Will trigger response be slow because of the high speed motor? What would RPS be like with a Frankentorque motor?
  16. So I recently upgraded my Classic Army M15A4 spring to a SHS M130 and when I went to test it out, the gearbox would move a little and lock. The gears had already been upgraded, although I don't know what the ratio is (it was a while back and a Airsoft Atlanta fixed my gears after they had worn out), the stock motor is in (this one), and my battery is a Tenergy 9.6v 1600maH 10C. I figure that I either need to upgrade the battery or the motor, and would rather do which ever is cheaper. Does anyone know which I should upgrade? When I changed the spring everything came out and I had to re-shim the gears. I think I did it alright, but maybe doing it better would get it to work? It works with the stock spring shimmed the way it is now.
  17. Hello! I purchased a GATE Merf 3.2 Mosfet and installed it in my gun in "enhanced mode" . I programmed it correctly but when I plug in the battery, the motor runs non-stop. I looked up the solution to this problem and all that was said was to make sure the mosfet is programmed for enhanced mode (which it is). I'm using a 9.9V LiFe battery which the mosfet does not seem to have a setting for but it does have a setting for a 9.6V LiFe. Could it be that the gun just does not support the battery that I'm using? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  18. Hello everyone, My buddy has a Lancer Tactical ak74 that during the middle of a match stopped shooting and had a sound "whining sound". When we got back home we decided to pull it apart to make sure the gear box was ok and as soon as we opened the box up the piston slammed forward. We put everything back together and took a few shots. After about the 4th or 5th shot the whining continued and the piston was once again jammed in the far back position. Does anyone have any ideas on whats wrong and or how to fix this?? Thanks in advance.
  19. Hello everyyone, First I just wanted to say I'm new here so hey guys!! Also, I have been wanting to get a new motor for my G&G GC16 Raider-L, because it is very slow. I also have a walmart M4 gun I bought a long time ago and just for fun I put in my 9.6v battery into it and the motor is surprisingly faster than my new gun! I was wondering if it was safe to put a walmart motor into a intermediate-end AEG?? Thanks guys, Marshal
  20. I have recently rennovated a JG M4A1 I bought used off a friend. I now believe I am experiencing some sort of electrical issue. When he sold it to me it fired very slowly (rof wise) and it seemed as though the motor was struggling to turn over the gearbox. I replaced the fuse with a fresh one although I don&#39;t think it needed it, and I also backed off the set screw on the bottom of the hand grip to loosen the motor mesh (thinking it was too tight, causing the motor to work much harder to turn the gearbox.) Those two procedures didnt do anyhting though. After those two failed to increase ROF, I decided it must be the motor itself. So I went on ebay and bought a cheap motor just to see if it was the problem. The motor arrived and I installed it, only to end up with the same result, slow ROF and what sounds like a struggling motor. I tried my buddies 9.6v battery instead of the 8.4 I normally use, and that increased the ROF to an acceptable level, but caused the motor to heat up quickly, and I would not want to use it for more than a couple minutes. So basically it seems like my motor is struggling to move the gearbox, and, in turn, I am getting sub par preformance. I know the gun has not been modified internally, so its all stock gearbox and spring wise. I loosened the motor set screw at the bottom of the handguard, but it didnt seem to do anything, should I try to tighten it instead? Any thoughts or suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance.
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