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Found 11 results

  1. Recently bought a long ZCI Balanced Motor off of Brill Armory. Meant to order a ZCI High Torque, but I messed up, so if anyone wants it for $25, or $30 shipped, let me know. The motor is basically brand new (maybe 100 dry fire shots to test it out), and has an SHS pinion on it. I can send you pictures and videos of it if you are skeptical. The motor was delivered yesterday and I only opened it today. PM for details
  2. For pictures view this article on my site at http://jonkraatz.com/?p=109 The history of project Blue Ghost This was my very first airsoft gun, it started out as a well loved AK-74M manufactured by a Chinese company called CYMA. Sure it was cheap and poorly made but it was a portal into the wonderful sport of Airsoft. For me this is where it all began. This is where my love for tech and modifications was born. Encased in a cast zinc shell laid a set of greasy gears and dirty plastics, but I didn't care. This was a masterpeice in the making. For the next year and a half I would save up my hard earned money to buy shiny new parts for my rifle. I would make numerous mistakes and errors, but in the end I would learn my trade. The story of project Blue Ghost is the story of my path to becoming a Benchtech. Laying the groundwork When I first received my rifle in its generic cardboard box the first thing I did was tear it apart (much to the dismay of my parents). After closely examining each and every part and seeing how it interacted I had a rough understanding of the workings. I was able to put it back together with the exception of the hopup unit and took it to my local field for the first time. After the whirlwind of action and adrenaline which every airsofter experiences their first time I came to the conclusion that my beloved rifle needed some serious improvment. After much reaserch and learning valuble information on modifications such as shimming and AOE correction, I set to work on what would be soon known as Blue Ghost. Before I could start upgrading I had to improve what already existed. I stripped down the internals and grabbed an old toothbrush and some denatured alcohol. After I had scrubbed every part clean of grim I started the long and frustating process of leaning to shim. It took me half the day but I finally got the gears to satifactory levels. When I had completed every modification recommended on the online forums I religiously studied, I started onto the next step. . . upgrades. The long path of upgrades Finally the time had come, the moment that I had waited months for. Now that I had the groundwork laid and the money saved up I could finally start investing in some upgrades that would lead to real performance. After comparing nearly every brand of motor I settled on a set of SHS 13:1 gears, a Lonex A-1 (Balanced) motor, and a BAAL piston. Combined with a 11.1v Turnigy LiPo I had a seriously capable rifle. . . until it started screaching. Turns out a M90 spring isn't strong enough to propel the piston fast enough to keep it from crashing into the sector gear. Thankfully I didn't see the need to expoxy in the piston rack so it was ripped off and the sector gear was saved. Three pistons, five springs, one motor, and six months later I had a winning combo. With a Lonex HT motor, M110, and a SHS blue piston my build was looking promising. While the HT motor decreased ROF the trigger response and efficiency were very notably increased. I took this setup many times to my local field D14 but I was still not satisfied. Current setup and performance Blue Ghost has come along way, with it's polished gearbox and black oxide treated gears only the stock cylinder head hints of it's origin. The blue glass-fiber nylon piston along with being dead silent gives project Blue Ghost it's name. In the end I decided to keep the Lonex A-2 motor dispite having issues with Lonex motors in the past. To replace the deteriorating stock shell I decided to go with a polished zinc shell by Lonex. Along with the shell came a dark blue nylon fiber tappet plate and 8mm steel bearings. I also kept the SHS 13:1 gears although I plan to replace them with Siegetek 10:1 gears in the future. For the piston I chose the iconic SHS blue which is a favorite among techs. The piston came pre-swiss cheesed from a drillpress. All of the compression parts except the cylinder are stock CYMA, they haven't failed yet. To save the trigger contacts from arcing is a GATE Warfet 1.1 which has proved to be an invaluable upgrade. For range and accuracy at a decent price I chose a 455mm ZCI 6.03mm barrel, coupled with Maple Leaf bucking and H-hop nub. The ZCI barrel can hurl .28g bb's up to 400ft (at 400fps with .20g) but effective range is closer to 300ft. The rate of fire is about 28-30 rounds/sec maximum though I have it dialed down to 20 as I feel anything higher is unnecessary for skirmishes. In all this build cost far more than I care to think about but it was well worth it for the knowledge and experience. The countless hours and frustration put into this build gives this rifle special meaning. It's a well tuned piece of tech that never fails to turn heads, but more importantly it's somthing I can be proud of.
  3. Hello, SHS High Torque SHS piston assembly that weighs 19 grams and has been SS'd two teeth SHS 18:1 gears, also SS'd two teeth SHS M130 11.1V 15/25C 1200mAh Li-Po The problem: on semi the setup overspins about a half a piston stroke, very rarely does a two round burst, I am going to upgrade the motor to a Lonex A2 and I would like to hear some of the suggestions how to get rid of the overspin NOT by shortstroking, but any other methods, example, messing with cutoff timings, trigger troleys etc. Any given feedback will be greatly appreciated! Have a nice day!
  4. Hey guys, so I have an ICS Par Mk3 CQB (10.5 inch outer barrel) that I am trying to upgrade for trigger response and increase ROF. Parts I have purchased so far: - SHS 13:1 Gears - SHS Sector Gear chip - SHS High Torque Motor - JBU M100 Spring/ Stock ICS M120 Spring - Madbull Ball Bearing Spring Guide - Turnigy 11.1V 1,800 Mah 25-40C LiPo - Nukefet from BrillArmory - Deans Connectors Everything else is stock. Some info about the stock parts: - 6 (or 8?) metal tooth ICS Piston - Type 1 ICS Cylinder - Plastic Cylinder Head So my question is, would this setup with the M100 spring cause premature engagement? What about an M110? My goal is to reach anywhere around 28-35 rps, with a max of ~375 Fps. I have heard that putting the M120 and short stroking would get rid of any PE, but I'm trying not to modify the gears at all. I was also told that short stroking may cause some issues regarding cylinder volume, as well as tappet plate engagement issues. Anyone have any ideas on what I should do? I'm mostly going to shoot on semi, as my local fields don't allow for full auto, so the PE shouldn't be too big of an issue, but I still want to be able to shoot full auto without destroying my piston. Thanks in advance!
  5. Hey everyone! This is my first post on an airsoft forum, and I just had a couple questions. I am sort of a noob when it comes to internal gearbox upgrades. I recently bought an ICS Par MK3 from Evike, and am looking to upgrade it for CQB use. Most of the CQB fields around me don't allow for full auto, so I am looking for something with great trigger response, at about 360-370 fps. I will also be using an 11.1v LiPo. So far, these are the only upgrades I have done. - ZCI Balanced Motor with SHS pinion (http://www.brillarmory.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=39_65&products_id=188) - JBU m100 Spring (https://www.hobbytron.com/JBUM100MetalSpringHeatTreated.html#35155) - Madbull Ultimate Ball Bearing Spring Guide (http://www.evike.com/products/38825/) I am looking to add a Gate Titan Mosfet (also looked at BTC Spectre and Chimera but these seem to be impossible to get), and possibly SHS or ZCI high-speed gear set (13:1 or 16:1). Is paying ~$150 worth it for a mosfet? Also, will the ICS split gearbox fit the Titan and 13:1 gears without modification? and is the 16:1 gearset even worth upgrading from the stock 18:1 ICS gearset? I will be correcting AOE, reshimming, and attaching deans connectors to just about everything. My budget for the gearbox is about $200 including a mosfet, and I will be doing accuracy/ compression upgrades in the near future. Any suggestions/inputs would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
  6. Hi, I have been working on my CYMA M14 EBR on and off for a while now and my friends just got into airsoft so I thought I would finish my gun. I am thinking of using an 18.5v LiPo to get some great rate of fire and trigger response. I know it is a lot of voltage and I would like to know some of the problems that can arise and how to solve them. I won't be using full auto often or for very long, mostly semi-auto. Most of my internals are upgraded here is the part list so far: JG Blue motor M150 or M160 (I can't quite remember I got it a long time ago) Prometheus Double Torque gears SHS blue 15 tooth piston Upgraded piston head and cylinder head Prometheus Steel Type A Cylinder I plan to get a Prometheus 500 x 6.03 mm barrel with R hop, and a MOSFET, not to sure which one. Also, I am pretty sure that the JG Blue with double torque gears and an 18.5v LiPo is overkill for an M150, can I pull an MS210 easily as well? I won't be using this gun at official games or anything, just with my friends. There are 20 of us and I want to dominate this summer, thanks! :)
  7. hey guys so I got a bit of a problem. my ak has almost perfect shimming with sound from the bevel and pinion from the gearbox. the bevel and pinion are meshing perfectly. but the problem is the bevel gear is rubbing on the bottom of the gb. it has about 1.5mm of play. should I add about another .1mm of shims on the bottom? because I'm trying to get the least amount of noise out of my gb. the reason I heard this sound is going from an 11.1v to 7.4v. I mean I'm going to use 9.6v nimh most of the time and I don't want the noise I'm hearing right now.
  8. Hey guys so I was looking around for a new motor for my g36 as the old one (4 years old about) just died on me as I put my build together :( after weeks of waiting :/ but anyways. I looked on airsoft atlanta for a good motor and came across a motor from the oem of shs. it's called rocket high torque motor. I was wondering if these are nice motors? for $30 by shs, it seems like a steal
  9. hey guys so I just build a very nice gb with some spare and new parts. I put everything together with a nano ssr mosfet, dual signal setup with included wires, with 16 awg wire. new trigger contacts shs piston, pistonhead that came with it, double O-ring cylinder head, double O-ring air nozzle, stock cyma cylinder, maple leaf 75 degree bucking, madbull 6.03 407mm tightbore, ics gears, shimmed perfect except for bevel gear which is tight on pinion gear, perfect compression and aoe. sounds great (except for b-p shimming as I stated before). oh and the motor is a cyma high torque modified. I see sparks directly under the plastic bell. is this normal????? I modified the motor as in the male connector broke off so I had to use another bell off of another CYMA motor. could this have caused the sparks?? or do I need a new motor???
  10. Hello I'm looking at internal upgrades for my m4 and wanted to know if I were to purchase the following items, roughly what rps I might get with a 9.6v 1600mah.AND if I could run an 11.1 lipo and not shred the gun in 2 seconds. I'll also be re-shimming the gun. Thanks for the help! SHS 13:1 high speed gears https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004UI53SC/ref=oh_aui_i_sh_pre_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1 SHS high speed long motor https://goo.gl/kYCAJY M90 Spring(I play cqb and my gun is shooting pretty hot) https://goo.gl/xWqGxE
  11. So I recently upgraded my Classic Army M15A4 spring to a SHS M130 and when I went to test it out, the gearbox would move a little and lock. The gears had already been upgraded, although I don't know what the ratio is (it was a while back and a Airsoft Atlanta fixed my gears after they had worn out), the stock motor is in (this one), and my battery is a Tenergy 9.6v 1600maH 10C. I figure that I either need to upgrade the battery or the motor, and would rather do which ever is cheaper. Does anyone know which I should upgrade? When I changed the spring everything came out and I had to re-shim the gears. I think I did it alright, but maybe doing it better would get it to work? It works with the stock spring shimmed the way it is now.
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