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Greetings dear airsoft community, I am new to this forum, so very quick introductions, I am 25 and just starting airsoft. As condensed as possible: My interest is not oriented around making a realistic gun. It is to optimize ones mechanics and take advantage of it's design. I know of the existence of the holy grail guide, and a lot of the info there is taken into consideration. We all know the advantages of bullpups. The Styre A1 has approximately 510mm inner barrel which to my knowledge is awesomely long. The AU3G / AUG A3 is made of very good plastic. The AU4G has a full metal RIS. The UAR is also under consideration. What I want to build is a DMR which; - is pinpoint precise up to a minimum of 100 meters. - shoots at a consistent FPS (+-3). - shoots at as high FPS as mechanically possible. - is electric (which is to say not GBB or HP). I seek any and all advise. May I consider a 190 spring with great internals ? Different bullpup manufacturers have different inner barrel lengths for the same model which is puzzling. I have other questions too, but let's get a discussion flowing first :) Thank you for your time.
Greetings, I am new here. I little background about myself. I have been teching my own gun since day one back in November 2016 since I started airsoft. I brashly took my new gun completely apart day one before even firing a shot through it to "learn" and thankfully since have been nothing but successful, albeit with many setbacks I always come out ahead with a working and very effective gun. I decided to finally get a good shell since the cutoff lever screw head broke off in my previous shell and I butchered it trying to drill it out (steel screw surrounded by soft metal is a no no to drill). My current issue is that the shell I chose and fitting a motor cage for an AUG. Retro Arms comes highly regarded so I got one for my AUG. It is the v2 of Retro's V3 gearbox shell. I learned despite Retro telling me it was fully compatible with AUG's it doesn't allow the use of the dust cover because it has not grooves at the top, but despite this flaw it fits very well. The issue I have is finding a motor cage that is compatible with Retro's gearbox shell. They sell AK cages only but it is too thick at the bottom of the cage. Stock motor cages such as JG do not align with the shells screw holes without heavy modification of the stock motor cage. I finally got one JG motor cage to fit with several hours of grinding with a Dremel and even still is a tight fit. I did not Dremel any part of the Retro Arms gearbox at all, though I considered it since the majority of the fitting issue is the sharp angles on it. Has anyone else had any experience with this and do they have any recommendations on motor cages that could fit? I orders a G36 motor cage for v3 as they seem to be very minimalist as far as cages go and wonder if it fits. Only 4 bucks so no real loss if it doesn't. Image of Retro Arms AK cage and lack of clearance in AUG. http://I.imgur.com/zZ1hkor.jpg Image of hole alignment with stock JG cage before modification. (I don't have a pic of it after modification, but its hard to believe I got it to finally fit in comparison.) http://I.imgur.com/yQQ1uLa.jpg
I fairly recently purchased my first Airsoft gun. Its a Used Steyr AUG made by Jing Gong. Regardless of the facts that it has little aftermarket support and my particular one has a plethora of issues ranging from missing and worn out parts to physical damage, I love it for its seeming obscurity and uniqueness on the field. Most everyone had some form of an AK or AR, but I had an AUG. Right now I am sourcing parts and drawing diagrams so that I can, in the near future, make a 'slap on barrel sleeve' to make it look like an HBAR and use hi caps as a support weapon. From my understanding no one takes the now discontinued HBAR that was made by JG seriously, so mine should be even more unique when I run it with the 'HBAR sleeve' I am going to make for it. Anyway, I love my little AUG. Was wondering if anyone else really likes the platform and what mods or tips you more experienced AUG users may have. Pic is from right after I painted it.
Hello, I ran into the issue with AUG, full write up below. I own a ASG AUG A2, current setup: Shs m120, doube oring cylinder head, shaven tappet plate, metal nozzle with oring, metal hop-up (shimmed towards mech box), teflon on the bucking and, mad-bull 6.03 (509mm) = 330-338fps Previous spring operated when new at 345fps after 8 month gone down to 280. After instalation of M120 (longer than original, so no mistake here), guide and piston (aluminium) the fps did not achived expected 360-380fps. The original spring had a weight attached to the front of it, and the spring guide kept the back end of spring further away from the rear of mech box (pre-compression?). The New spring is not compatible with weight hence the heavier piston. I belive that system is not very leaky as fps is is rather consistent with odd anomaly +/- 10fps (hop-up: off) The mech box is shimmed and secured so sits snuggly with almost no play, hand compression test with the nozzle shows no leaks. When testes with piece of paper on the mag well bb feed, the piece of paper just moves to the side (not flying away). So far I came up with couple of ideas: -Air nozzle to short (0.5mm or something along this lines) -Lonex bucking not sealing under pressure(too soft?) -too light piston? -Too weak spring? -wrong cylinder volume (v3/4 I think) for this length of barell ( measurements to be perforemd over weekend). The cyliner is inserted with the notch on gearbox in right place. Could some point me in the right direction? Did I missed something obvious? Thank you for taking the time to read this.
Hi everyone! I hate to ask for help like this but I'm really at a loss. The rear sling mount of my ASG Aug A3 broke off and I ordered a replacement one from evike. http://www.evike.com/products/48599/ It came with this strange stick tool but despite my best efforts and brute force, I have been unable to figure out how to attach it to my Aug. I know that the sling manufacturer is the OEM for the ASG Aug. If anyone has replaced this before or knows a handy guide on this I'd really like to know what the trick is! Cheers, Lefty92