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Found 5 results

  1. Hi, I'm looking to use an airsoft spring-powered gun to shoot 43cal paintballs (11mm, ~0.7g). I have the means of machining some parts (barrel + hopper mechanism), but wouldn't want them to be too complicated. We also don't need much range and don't need the typical 300-400fps speeds. Likely ~100fps would be sufficient. Some of my questions: 1. Would this be a reasonable modification and would there be enough power in a typical airsoft gun to propel a paintball of the above specs? 2. What are the strongest springs that can be put into a typical airsoft gun, and would that significantly increase the power? 3. How difficult would it be to manufacture a custom barrel (11mm diameter) and have that work with a typical airsoft upper gearbox? I.e. what's important to ensure the ball gets propelled correctly? 4. Has anyone ever heard of anyone doing something similar, I.e. using a spring-powered gun for shooting paintballs? I don't know much about airsoft or paintball to begin with, so if there's any more information that would be helpful to answer these questions, please let me know. Here are some of the gearboxes I was looking at for reference: Lonex 8mm Enhanced Bearing AEG Gearbox Ver.3 ICS M4 Bore Up Complete Upper Gearbox for ICS M4 D Boy OEM Complete AK v3 Gearbox CYMA Complete Version 3 AK Full Metal Gearbox w/ High Torque Motor If there are any other sites to be looking at for gearboxes, please let me know. Thanks!
  2. Attention: I am from Austria (Europe). The below mentioned price includes shipping to the US, which usually takes 10-15 days. You can also pay in USD via Paypal. Hey guys. I am selling my first home sewn plate carrier. It is just a prototype and therefore has some shortcomings. It is however an overall great high quality "made in Austria" plate carrier. Price: 150$ materials used: - Genuine 500 Denier Cordura from Brookwoods, IRR & DWR - Original Multicam Webbing, imported from the US - Alterfil thread - made in Germany thread which melts together after being ironed, which makes it virtually impossible to open It's features: - Takes Small SAPI plates, should also take 10"x12" plates As you can see with the S SAPI there is still some room. I do not have any 10"x12" plates to try with, so I can't guarantee they fit. - zigzag stiches on spots with a lot of tear - X seams on velcro - triple stiched + zigzag'd PALS webbing - adjustable shoulder straps and adjustable elastic cummerbund - slanted velcro with pull tabs for easy opening - Front: detachable padding, back: sewn in (wanted to try both methods :P) - detachable shoulder pads - removable foam in cummerbund - big solid Multicam velcro space for Patches, V-Lite, PTT, etc. - small velcro space on the back Now, here are the shortcomings: - right shoulder strap folded a bit - some unpleasant stiching http://abload.de/img/dsc_1231e9rzj.jpg http://abload.de/img/dsc_1236rzr83.jpg - inverted velcro on one shoulder pad... *facepalm* http://abload.de/img/dsc_12179kswq.jpg Now this is how it looks on me (6', 145lbs) So as you can see it's more for the skinnier/smaller airsofters, the adjustment possibilities are however similar to the LBT 6094a. http://abload.de/img/dsc_002741sbi.jpg http://abload.de/img/dsc_0028cfsrx.jpg http://abload.de/img/dsc_0030vpsfb.jpg
  3. Yes, I know the Miracle Barrel is not a mod itself- it's a barrel for sale which boasts a very simple modification to the standard barrel design- where the BB sits in a consistent position pre-trigger-pull. Is the Miracle Barrel better than other options out there because of this? :censored2: if I know, I just know this is a design any barrel would benefit from, and it isn't complicated, so I want to apply it. I'm wondering if anyone here has attempted to modify their barrel to recreate this design, or seriously considered it? The only thing stopping me from committing 100% to this is...well, life- I'm on break, and last time I left for school, Airsoft got sidetracked a depressing amount Depending on the coming weeks, I may take this project up wholeheartedly, and am seriously interested in it regardless. My first thought was drilling four holes on the underside of the barrel appropriately, to anchor some 'tracks' used for the actual support of the BB. This may be as simple as four holes, and some copper wire strung through like shoelaces, held secure by (and plugging the holes via) Loctite. Any input?
  4. This is going to be a little pic-heavy, so bear with me. I was walking through my local hardware store yesterday, and I chanced upon something that changed my life. Well, maybe not my life... but it changed my evening! And so, I give you my quick and dirty tutorial on how to make a PBS1-style suppressor for your Eastern Bloc AEG or GBBR. 1. Buy two PVC drainpipes with flanges. The ones I chose are 40mm diameter for the inner (Small Pipe), and 50mm for the outer pipe (Big Pipe). You will want to get the kind with a rubber gasket in the flange. 2. Pull out the gasket from the flange of the inner pipe. You will use this to shim the narrow end of the inner barrel in the wider end of the outer barrel. 3. You also need this PVC pipe connector thing. The inner diameter is 25mm, outer diameter is almost big enough to be a perfect slip-fit in the inner pipe. You can shim it with some electrical tape. After I got it to where I needed it, I used 2 small screws to lock it in place and prevent it from shifting in Small Pipe. 4. As you can see here, the flared end of Small Pipe fits perfectly in narrow end of Big Pipe. You may need to use a wrap or two of electrical tape here to make it a really snug fit. 5. Here you can see how the rubber gasket is used to shim the Small Pipe in the Big Pipe. Just use a wooden chopstick or a Phillips screwdriver to jam it in there. Solid. 6. Heres what the "butt" end of the suppressor ends up looking like. Pretty rough, but hey, I banged this thing out in like an hour - I'll probably sit down and sand the rough edges eventually. If youre fancy, you can make an endcap out of something that will cover the gap. 7. Other end of suppressor. Im not in the US, so I can actually have little foam rings in mine without the ATF going medival on me, but if youre in the US kiddos, avoid that and make yours totally hollow. Im still thinking on the best way to make an endcap. 8. SIze comparison! Stock AKS74U flash hider compared to this PBS1. 9. A pic of the suppressor on the gun itself! 10. I made an endcap by simply cutting out a ring of PVC sheet and drilling a hole in it, and gluing it into the end of the pipe. Paint it up with flat black paint and scuff it with a bit of sandpaper, and it looks OK!
  5. Just a quick little video I (well, my girlfriend technically) shot, not sure if mags jamming in the magwell upon reload is an issue for a lot of people, but it sure was an issue for me. Here's a quick fix I came up with. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s5yQg53kmZk Schematic: http://imgur.com/w4DCquv There are spacers out there for LCT AKs that fix this exact issue, but because the CYMA already has "half" of a spacer there, you will have to remove your standard spacer to then use an LCT spacer, as well as having to pay money for it in the first place. This circumvents that, plus you can make it yourself out of anything you want and it's free, provided your "hands don't grow out your butthole" (as we Russians say).
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