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Found 26 results

  1. Hi. I just downgraded my spring to a SP100 for CQB. I noticed that I am getting overspin with a 9.6 volt battery when I am in semi auto. when I plug in my 8.4 volt battery it works perfectly fine but I would rather use 9.6 volt batteries. Please help.
  2. So I've got the following for sale: KWA KM4, KM4 CQB, KWA CQR Mod 2 Gearbox, KWA USP-T, 6MM proshop Midcap box, 4 KWA hicaps + 5 other hicaps, and a smartcharger. KWA KM4 - $159 shipped. This has been through a lot. It still shoots around 380FPS w/.20g and works perfectly. KM4 CQB - $149 shipped. It's got a metal upper from the KWA CQR Mod 2, so its still full metal. Shoots around 340 FPS w/.20g. Bundle this with the CQR Mod2 lower for $185 shipped! CQR Mod2 lower receiver - sold Not sure what this fires at. I'm assuming its rated for CQB. Great gearbox for people who want to HPA it or want a spare gearbox. KWA USP-T (no magazine) - sold Worked perfectly until I lost the magazine. 6mm proshop midcaps - $40 shipped. Almost new. 4 KWA Hi-caps, 5 other metal hi-caps - $40 shipped.
  3. Greetings, I am new here. I little background about myself. I have been teching my own gun since day one back in November 2016 since I started airsoft. I brashly took my new gun completely apart day one before even firing a shot through it to "learn" and thankfully since have been nothing but successful, albeit with many setbacks I always come out ahead with a working and very effective gun. I decided to finally get a good shell since the cutoff lever screw head broke off in my previous shell and I butchered it trying to drill it out (steel screw surrounded by soft metal is a no no to drill). My current issue is that the shell I chose and fitting a motor cage for an AUG. Retro Arms comes highly regarded so I got one for my AUG. It is the v2 of Retro's V3 gearbox shell. I learned despite Retro telling me it was fully compatible with AUG's it doesn't allow the use of the dust cover because it has not grooves at the top, but despite this flaw it fits very well. The issue I have is finding a motor cage that is compatible with Retro's gearbox shell. They sell AK cages only but it is too thick at the bottom of the cage. Stock motor cages such as JG do not align with the shells screw holes without heavy modification of the stock motor cage. I finally got one JG motor cage to fit with several hours of grinding with a Dremel and even still is a tight fit. I did not Dremel any part of the Retro Arms gearbox at all, though I considered it since the majority of the fitting issue is the sharp angles on it. Has anyone else had any experience with this and do they have any recommendations on motor cages that could fit? I orders a G36 motor cage for v3 as they seem to be very minimalist as far as cages go and wonder if it fits. Only 4 bucks so no real loss if it doesn't. Image of Retro Arms AK cage and lack of clearance in AUG. http://I.imgur.com/zZ1hkor.jpg Image of hole alignment with stock JG cage before modification. (I don't have a pic of it after modification, but its hard to believe I got it to finally fit in comparison.) http://I.imgur.com/yQQ1uLa.jpg
  4. So, I have this G&G SRXL fully stock, and somehow not working fully. I have a 9.6v 1600mah NiMh battery to power the G&G ETU and MOSFET package, (which was replaced after one burned out) and a Matrix 3000 motor- only real modification. The gun worked perfectly out of the box, but I wanted to shim and make it silenced. So, I epoxied the bushings in with JB weld and perfectly shimmed the gears- they spin perfectly free without the spring, tappet, and piston and such in. The motor spins them perfectly free and almost perfectly silent. Now, however, when I have the firing set up in (spring piston and such) with the gearbox fully assembled, perfect motor height, and shim job. The gun only cycles half way and stops. The motor tries to turn the gears but fails and makes an audible "tick" as I pull the trigger trying to push the stuck gears. Although I can manually spin the gears with a flat head and fully cycle the gun. I have been told its not the battery and the motor is definitely powerful enough to spin the gear set, whats wrong?
  5. Title says it all! I am in search of a KWA 2GX gearbox shell so I can HPA it, If you know anyone or have a spare one laying around I am having lots of trouble finding one! thanks!
  6. So recently I replaced my Air nozzle in my gun I put everything back in the gearbox and it complete stopped cycling. Gears are properly placed in everything snaps in when I close the gearbox. Once I put the gearbox on and assembly it I can hear a distinct click or snap in the gearbox or when I force push the air nozzle to allow it to be pushed back. The air nozzle does not want to be pushed back The gears are not stripped I have checked, the motor no matter what can't be correctly sit in because, if I put it to in it makes a vroom noise, if I put it back out a bit all the gears are spinning but still no cycling action going on. Please do help me out thanks. If necessary for further diagnoses I will post images.
  7. Earlier today my piston stripped so I put in an another one but now its making a weird clicking sound (not the sound when you have a low voltage battery). I may just have to get another piston but I was just wondering if anyone else had this problem and fixed it. Here is my gun specs: SHS 12:1 gears ZCI High Torque motor Nukefet 7.4v 1500mAh 20c 11.1 2200mAh 20c Stock JG m110 spring Stock everything else I modified my gearbox to fit both motor wires through the back port so my motor doesnt shred up the wire and I cut 3 coils off my tappet plate spring to better my feeding Here is a link to the sound its making: https://youtu.be/8AV_N-oN2Gw
  8. Ok so here is my problem, The gun fires and will cycle about 5-15 times perfectly fine and then the next shot the gun either doesn't fire at all or the motor sounds like it starts to turn but then stops. If I take the bottom of the motor grip off and let the motor raise, you can here it set like a very faint click and then im able to put it back in and begin firing again. it never half cocked the gearbox but just wont turn over sometimes. if I bump the bottom of the gun by the motor grip or on the motor grip with my hand im able to fire another 1-2 shots and then it locks again. I'm usually able to diagnose issues quickly but this one is really stumping me the past month.
  9. I was working on an EBB Javelin M4 purchased here, and I found the gearbox shell broken. This is a common problem with this specific gun, so I wasn't surprised at all. I want to go the cheaper route and get a new shell, since I'm on a tight budget, but since the gun is an EBB I'm not sure if I can use an ordinary gearbox for it, and if so, what gearbox would fit in it. I'm prepared to get a complete gearbox for it if I need to, but I don't want to spend over $70 on one. FYI the gun is front wired. Any links/info would be appreciated.
  10. Do I have to Short stroke the piston if I short stroke the sector? What happens if I don't?
  11. So I took apart my Scar and added my own upgrades in the gearbox and hop up which went well, but now I'm stuck. I can't seem to get the gearbox back in the lower receiver without moving the fire selector plate on the gearbox or without moving the actual fire selector. They only way I was able to get the gear box out is was to pry it the plastic of the lower receiver away to slide the gearbox out so the fire selector gears disengaged. Basically I need to know if any one has this Scar L or one like it, and how to get the gear box in and out without messing up the fire selector process. Those who have this gun will know what I mean. If you need a reference of what I'm dealing with, go to youtube and search up classic army scar L dissassembly and the guy with the black scar goes through a step by step process of how to take apart the gun, and he goes over the issue with the fire selector switch too. I'd post the link but I am not too sure if its aloud and better safe than sorry! if needed I can take pictures too. Thanks!
  12. Hi! So my friend owns an m14 AEG electric automatic gun which makes grinding sounds randomly. I pretty much replaced everything in that gearbox and shimmed it which I have done too many times to count. Gears are steel SHS regular ratio gears which make average amount of noise. Everything else is also from SHS and spring is m120 (1.5j). The gearbox had a little flaw which caused piston to get stuck when fully loaded and the sector gear was too fast and engaged the piston too soon before it was fully fired and broke 2 pistons. Problem was those middle rails that were too high, not anymore. This was the reason that I opened the gearbox in the first place. The piston has just enough play to move freely so it can't get of the gears to make that grind sound... So now the problem is that gun makes grinding noise randomly when it's fired with BB and not without. I have tested the gears separately including jamming them from sector gear and of course this causes gears not to move which means that the gears are not flying over each other and there are no grinding sound. I have also checked that motor is engaged correctly (original). 11.1v Li-Po 20C is used. This exactly the same configuration that I use in my m4, same parts from SHS, of course gearbox exclusive parts are different, no problems there. First I suspected that the grinding sound was caused by pistons full width teeth to grind on bevel gear and pretty much machined that piston to be half teeth piston (full metal teeth, first one cut of for AOE correction + sorbothane is used). The sound is still there when shooting with BB and the piston is not hitting any gear but sector as it should be. So now I checked that piston hits the sector gear correctly and there is nothing but normal teeth engagement. The gears are black so if there would be any grinding we would see it on the parts, but of course nothing. Piston moves freely in the cylinder when the gearbox is fully closed with screws and gears too of course. The gearbox is straight and there is nothing that would indicate that gearbox is the problem including no grinding marks... Anti-reversal latch is working correctly and cut of lever isn't the problem. So my next guess is that piston does not make it all the way to the end of the cylinder before bevel gear makes it's next revolutions, but there is nothing to stop that airflow or atleast I don't see it. So it seems like the piston getting somehow stuck is still the problem... Only thing that restricts that airflow is BBs them selves but the gun still shoots normally... So could the hop-up rubber be the problem? The hop-up chamber is quite big and even if the nozzle (metal+o-ring) is tight fit the air should still get out... I don't see nozzle and nozzle latch make any difference in making that grinding sound. There are less parts in version 7 gearbox then 2 or 3 and that makes fewer brake points... So as you can see I pretty much have a gun that is working correctly but makes random grinding sounds that are as loud as motor not hitting spur gear correctly... Nothing is broken nor there is any wear... I have done everything I can, but still the problem occurs and it's somehow related to piston. Please help me figure this out!
  13. Hello I'm a noob to Airsofting I just got a Echo 1 SR-16e3 for my birthday a month ago I have recently noticed I can't pen things I was befor after about a month should this be normal just a little concerned I don't have a chrono as I stated I am a real noob and was just woundering at what rate do gearboxes and stuff decay? and is it normal to lose power after a month not sure how many rounds I've shot through it mabey 5k of Echo 1 .25s Thank you guys for any input :)
  14. I recently picked up a used JG G36 and right away did some maintenance on the gearbox. I haven't been able to assemble it yet, and in attempting to do so I broke the spring guide. I noticed that the piston is chipped a bit at the end of the teeth groove on the head side. (The teeth are fine, but the piston is chipped next to the last metal tooth on the head end of the piston.) How recommended is it that I replace more than the spring guide? In other words, should I do a cylinder set complete purchase? Below is what I will purchase if so, and what should I add or subtract? Thanks! SHS Airsoft Nylon Piston & Aluminum Piston Head W/ Ball Bearings Full Steel Teeth 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 $10.99$10.99 SHS Airsoft Version 3 Aluminum AEG Cylinder Head 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 $9.95$9.95 SorboPad for V2/V3, 3/16" Thickness, 40 (Soft) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 $4.95$4.95 G&G Armament Super-Lube Gear Grease for AEG 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 $7.82$7.82 ICS Airsoft Silicone Oil Spray 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 $6.95$6.95 Super Shooter Ball Bearing Spring Guide For Version 3 Airsoft AEG Gearbox 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 $11.99$11.99 SHS/Super Shooter Airsoft M110 For PTW/DTW/CTW AEG Spring 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 $6.99$6.99 M4 Magwell Conversion for JG608 Series AEGs 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 $8.95$8.95 Elite Force M4/M16 Mid-Cap Rifle Magazine, Black, 140 Rds
  15. Hey, guys I recently purchased this gun and loved it. G&G M4 Carbine Special Editions M16 Combat Machine Airsoft AEG Rifle http://www.evike.com/products/32676 Its good and all but it doesn't reach my expectations. So, I am looking for some internal upgrades that improve accuracy and range, maybe fire rate too. One of my friends has the same rifle I used before I started getting serious with airsoft. He said he just had some basic internals. So, I am looking for the same thing. I am looking for something cheap and useful. Go ahead and post and internals with any price that is compatible with this gun. NOTE: I'm not really sure this matters but this m4 is compatible with almost any M4 gearbox, like blowback and gas. It's also my first airsoft gun, So I'm willing to go crazy with it.
  16. Big Dragon Version 3 Complete Gearbox w/Quick Change Spring Price was $89.99 now $79.99 Anyone know anything about this gearbox? Do you use it? Will in handle M190 spring? Quality or junk? Description: The Big Dragon Gearbox is a quick and simple way to improve the performance of your base rifle. With upgraded internal components to handle a higher output as well as providing a better form of efficiency as the gearbox cycles. This gearbox is designed to fit most airsoft guns, some modification may or may not be required. Airsoft GI / GI Tactical is not responsible for any damage to your airsoft gun from installation or misuse. Specifications: Manufacturer: Big Dragon Model: Ver. 3 Gearbox Color: Assorted Package Includes: One (1) Complete Gearbox Complete Gearbox Assembly Upgraded Internal Components Drop-In Assembly Quick Change Spring System Color Assorted Material Metal Package Includes One (1) Complete Gearbox I am new to the Airsoft sport and want to avoid most pitfalls one may make. My plans are to Max out the fps I can get from my GSG 522 PK (cybergun) and V3 gearbox. I would like to have a gearbox w/Quick change spring so when I want to play in a airsoft game it will be easy to downgrade my spring for lower fps. This way I have a multi use gun. Both for home target shooting and then for use on an airsoft field. Your knowledge is appreciated, thank you.
  17. I have been looking at a G&G Combat Machine M4 with RIS. Is it good? I am looking for a gun with 360-400 FPS, pretty fast rof, and I need it to be DURABLE, RELIABLE, and can withstand dropping and bumping around. The durablity is the key thing here. My last two 200$ AEGs have broken in the last month by dropping, or randomly after shooting about 20 bbs the motor disconnects and gearbox locks. I am going to a CQB place and range doesn't really matter but weight really does. Is this gun light? Thank you in advance and happy to see the results!
  18. I'm having some trouble getting my Lonex 8mm reinforced GB to fit inside my metal lower receiver correctly. The receiver pin-holes aren't lining up enough to get a pin through. I can squeeze them together to where they almost line up on both sides. I'm thinking that there's an area where I could file down a little to allow the GB to get in there a little more. Since I'm relatively new to doing work on this stuff, I wanted to make sure I'm not going to somehow make things crack in half. Should I shave off some material or do something else instead?
  19. I have some stuff up for grabs. All prices are firm and include shipping which will be either FedEx or USPS, but both run about $13-$25 depending on the size of the item being purchased. This is why the prices are firm. The pictures show all items in their current condition most which are excellent or just below that. Paypal only NO TRADES. I will entertain "reasonable" offers for multiple items. Tokyo Marui Hicapa w/extra mag perfect condition non leaky mags $200 shipped Magpul PTS EPM's w/ranger plates feed flawlessly $135 shipped Night Evolution M300B with rail mounted pressure switch & rail wire loom $70 shipped APS Silver Edge V2 Gearbox (Blowback) wired to deans functions flawlessly quick detach spring function $60 shipped APS AEG functions flawlessly, wired to deans, chrono'd at 370fps will include original box, mag and battery $200 Shipped NCStar OSS Adjustable Power Scope w/VISM quick detach mount and railing for micro dot $80 shipped Lancer Tactical Banshee Replica all pouches (NOT THE PATCHES) in picture including hydration bladder and genuine Magpul Sling included too $95 shipped
  20. I wanna upgrade my cm16 but I don't wanna pay to much. I wanna try to upgrade range and accuracy. But I don't know what to get? Any help from the techs?
  21. My gearbox is giving me all sorts of problems ever since I upgraded it. I have no idea why as the only upgrades I last did were a new gear set and mosfet. My problem deals with fps though. Problems First the cylinder to piston and cylinder to cylinder head air seal was terrible but that is mostly fixed and I changed the spring too but it is only shooting 360 fps and the spring is an m120 so it should be shooting hotter than 360 fps. When I test the gearbox without the barrel, the air is powerful. When I pressed the hopup to the gearbox and turn it upside down to do the air nozzle to bucking seal test, the air does blow out into the mag well but I have to hold the barrel just right, other wise it seals fine. After the test I sanded the tappet plate to fix the problem, but instead I got the same exact fps AND now the bbs feed horribly as if the air nozzle is too far forward, blocking the bbs. I only have $30 to spend on amazon (because it is a gift card) on upgrade parts. All help is appreciated. Thanks.
  22. Broken Gearbox, Whats the Fix? Hey guys! I am just wondering, what do you think the best Version 2 Gearbox for a M4 is? That would be in terms of price and reliability. My last one is broken (no idea why) and I need one that wont get stripped, no matter what. Actually, I'm not even 100% sure its a new gearbox I need! The problem is that my Semi-Auto setting fires Full-Auto. Do I need a Gearbox or just some new Gears?
  23. Retro Arms M249 Gearbox Shell Overview: Made by Retro Arms, from the Czech Republic. Cost $176.19 The Gearbox weighs at least half as much as the regular cast one (sorry I didn't have anything to weigh it) Its made of EN AW 7075 T651 aluminum which is a very strong material. Has a beautiful black finish. Packaging: Plastic bag inside of a regular shipping bag with your invoice number and some retro arms stickers. This gearbox is probably the most beautiful gearbox I have ever seen! The finish is very clean and even, and it doesn't scratch off easily. This gearbox is also much lighter that the average cast one (at least 50%) which is a big plus because the m249's are already really heavy. There are also little metal pieces near each end which help hold the gearbox together when you don't have it screwed together. The knob that holds the tappet plate spring on is also modified so it doesn't pop off when your taking out your piston. So far all of my parts from my previous gearbox have fit except the SHS Cylinder head, which had to be drilled out to fit. Another positive about this gearbox is that it doesn't require the M249 proprietary bushing/bearings, now you can use ver 2 bushings/bearings. It fits perfectly in my gun, not too wobbly and not too tight. Customer service: When I ordered my gearbox they replied to my email the day after, and after a few emails I had bought their product. It was easy and simple, although you have to use paypal (which for some reason is a negative to some people).The day after I ordered their product they sent me a confirmation and my shipping number. It took 6 days to arrive, and I live in Georgia so it will take longer for west coast people. Keep in mind that they're not open on sat/sun and most holidays (with the exception of presidents day and MLK etc.) What it has stood up to: Two days ago my friend and I decided to test out an m190 spring with the spring guide spacer and a cylinder spacer. Using my modded JG Blue (which I was surprised pulled it) and some siegetek gears, I was able to shoot the gun at a solid 14 rps at an insane 710 fps (we used .2 gram bbs with a 6.02 tight-bore). In that day we ran through 3 14.8v 3000MaH lipo batteries, about 2 1/2 bags of 4000 bbs, and 5 shs 15 tooth pistons. That gearbox is perfectly fine. I inspected the whole thing and it looks just like new! In Conclusion: This gearbox is by far the strongest, best looking, and highest quality gearbox I have ever owned for any of my guns. It will last longer than any other part on your gun. I have yet to find a gearbox that can preform quite like this one does. If you want the best of the best, get this gearbox, because it can handle almost anything. 10/10 with flying colors! More Pictures First review, please tell me how I did and if I should add anything!
  24. I'm getting a complete Classic Army gearbox and lower receiver today from a friend. He's giving me the CA upper with it, but it has a crack. I can't find any CA uppers anywhere. Do you guys know what uppers would work with it? Thanks guys.
  25. I have recently rennovated a JG M4A1 I bought used off a friend. I now believe I am experiencing some sort of electrical issue. When he sold it to me it fired very slowly (rof wise) and it seemed as though the motor was struggling to turn over the gearbox. I replaced the fuse with a fresh one although I don't think it needed it, and I also backed off the set screw on the bottom of the hand grip to loosen the motor mesh (thinking it was too tight, causing the motor to work much harder to turn the gearbox.) Those two procedures didnt do anyhting though. After those two failed to increase ROF, I decided it must be the motor itself. So I went on ebay and bought a cheap motor just to see if it was the problem. The motor arrived and I installed it, only to end up with the same result, slow ROF and what sounds like a struggling motor. I tried my buddies 9.6v battery instead of the 8.4 I normally use, and that increased the ROF to an acceptable level, but caused the motor to heat up quickly, and I would not want to use it for more than a couple minutes. So basically it seems like my motor is struggling to move the gearbox, and, in turn, I am getting sub par preformance. I know the gun has not been modified internally, so its all stock gearbox and spring wise. I loosened the motor set screw at the bottom of the handguard, but it didnt seem to do anything, should I try to tighten it instead? Any thoughts or suggestions are welcome. Thanks in advance.
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