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Found 12 results

  1. The battery on my friend's VFC M27 has been dying out, and after talking with him, he's decided to get a LiPo battery for it. Now, I know quite a bit about LiPos already, and having used one in my G&P M16A1 for some time now, I know they're not made of nitroglycerine like a bunch of people think they are. The only issue we're having is trying to find one that'll fit in the stock. Any recommendations?
  2. Not much to say really other than they've not been used much, I dunno, £10 each mag (I have 3 metal low caps (like 50 rounds) and 3 plastic mid caps (like 110 rounds), £10 per battery, £20 for the pair of mag pouches The mag pouches are also supposedly useful for Sandtrooper cosplay if anyone is into that Cheers, George
  3. Not much to say really other than they've not been used much, I dunno, £10 each mag (I have 3 metal low caps (like 50 rounds) and 3 plastic mid caps (like 110 rounds), £10 per battery, £20 for the pair of mag pouches The mag pouches are also supposedly useful for Sandtrooper cosplay if anyone is into that Cheers, George
  4. I tried to charge my Lipo with my Tenergy B450AC which has worked before but all of a sudden I have been getting ERR5 which according to the manual this means that there is an internal error and that I should turn it off and back on does not work than to contact the manufacturer for further trouble shooting. I sent Tenergy customer support an email but I am not expecting to get a reply. It works just fine for charging my NiMH battery but whenever I have the balance charger plugged in I get the ERR5. I also checked to make sure that the battery was not dead and the output voltage was a safe 3.5v. Does anybody have any clue whats going on? Update: I tried again and the LCD display no longer works except to show error messages.
  5. I have a stock ARES Amoeba M4 CG-002 (AM-008) AEG. I am unsure of which Lipo battery to get. I know I want to stick to 7.4v, but I don't know which mAh and C rating to get. Some other questions I have are, How long will a 7.4v 1000mAh 20C lipo last me? Should I go 1000mAh 20C or 1300mAh 15C? Is there a minimum amount of Amps I should supply to the gun being that it is stock? I have seen people say a minimum of 30amps. Is it safer for the gun to go high mAh and high C rating or low mAh and low C Rating? Can my gun even handle a 7.4v lipo safely while stock? I am more concerned with keeping my gun from breaking rather then max performance. Any information is appreciated!
  6. Hi, so I have 4 working aegs that I was messing around with, and recently I bought a couple new 11.1v 30c lipos to make my guns preform a bit better. I actually don't know what I did to these guns, but one of them was a raptor-katana with a silver cylinder. When I was using this gun I plugged in the lipo (this gun has no fuse) and when I started to go full auto I heard a weird sound and immediately opened up my gun to find my piston has been completely shredded. How did this happen? Then I had a small echo 1 m4 that was pretty cheap I believe, and when I was shooting it with the same lipo (this time I had a wizard king mosfet connected) it made a weird beeping noise and then my trigger became sticky and it wont shoot what does this mean? Finally, I have a gun that I built customly myself, and it has a 30A fuse and I was using a wizard king mosfet again, but the gun just straight up stopped shooting no response at all from the gun. The fuse didn't blow because I tried the gun without it and it was fine. How can I fix this? Also my other gun has a problem with the cords that connect the battery to the gearbox. What does it mean when a motor gets hot?
  7. Hi, I have been working on my CYMA M14 EBR on and off for a while now and my friends just got into airsoft so I thought I would finish my gun. I am thinking of using an 18.5v LiPo to get some great rate of fire and trigger response. I know it is a lot of voltage and I would like to know some of the problems that can arise and how to solve them. I won't be using full auto often or for very long, mostly semi-auto. Most of my internals are upgraded here is the part list so far: JG Blue motor M150 or M160 (I can't quite remember I got it a long time ago) Prometheus Double Torque gears SHS blue 15 tooth piston Upgraded piston head and cylinder head Prometheus Steel Type A Cylinder I plan to get a Prometheus 500 x 6.03 mm barrel with R hop, and a MOSFET, not to sure which one. Also, I am pretty sure that the JG Blue with double torque gears and an 18.5v LiPo is overkill for an M150, can I pull an MS210 easily as well? I won't be using this gun at official games or anything, just with my friends. There are 20 of us and I want to dominate this summer, thanks! :)
  8. I saw another question that was answered but I need some more info asap. I have a 7.4v mini lipo. 35c 1500mah. 2s. I need to know when to charge it. I heard when a cell reaches 3.2 is the lowest rating you should charge it at. is this true? if not, when should I charge it????
  9. Hello! My younger brother owns a CM.045 AK 74U replica, totally stock. There was a creepy girl lurking inside our yard and she refused to go away so my brother decided to show her the gun, but she was gone as soon as my brother came in (I was sleeping) minutes after my brother woke me up. He says his gun only shoots if he removes the grip, he showed me (trigger pulled 5 times only at this point) it was just like he said. I took the gun in my hand and inspected the cables, everything seemed all right and not broken or damaged. I fired the gun and huge sparks came from somewhere around the motor, I checked cables again and made sure they only touch with the connector on the motor, I fired once again and even larger sparks. I immediately checked the 7.4V Lipo battery in it and it was super hot with all the wirings included, tamiya melted. With some force applied I managed to disconnect the lipo, it countinued heating until the point the black plastic cover on it melted. So my question is, was the battery faulty or is the motor or wiring the problem? Additional info: Gun has not been used for more than 10 000 shots and is only 3 months old He is used lipo on our last 2 airsoft matches which were only few hours long, no noticable heating Fuse is undamaged Cables were only removed from the motor once, to check my gun's trigger wiring (gearbox was not taken apart) The gun is still (as far as I know) under warranty The sparkles were orange and not blue Once it started heating it kept heating until I removed the battery EDIT: While I was writing this post my brother noticed that the tamiya is molten in a strange way, it looks like the metal connector part of the lipo connector did not go into the female part of the connector but rather pushed it asied and connected side to side, may this be the problem?
  10. I was thinking of upgrading my AEG to an 11.1V LiPo, but I don't know how to hook it up. The battery is this: https://www.airrattle.com/11-1v-1000Mah-20C-Lithium-Polymer-Stick-Battery-p/tenergy-31598.htm and I have no experience with LiPo batteries. What all do I need for this and how do I go about hooking it up? The gun is a King Arms AEG SVD.
  11. Is it ok if I charge my nano-tech 1800 7.4v Lipo with smartcharger and when it stops charging, then continue with charger that came with Ni-Mh battery (stock charger)? As much I found from Google, the maximum charging time should be 4 - 5 hours, but you can`t achive it with smartcharger. Bot chargers have same output (8.4V).
  12. Sup guys! Another AK question for y'all: I have an 11.1v Lipo I want to use on an AK I'm gonna get (Dboys RK-05). It's got a folding stock, and the battery goes in the top of the receiver. What are some viable options for rewiring an AK so a mosfet will fit? -Put it in the folding stock?(hazard to the wiring?) -Forgrip(can it be wiring to the front for a PEQ Box?) I plan on changing the forgrips to a Rail system. -Leave it alone(is there enough space for a Mosfet already?) Lipo is 6.5in long, but I would prefer to get a peq box version. Mosfet: http://www.clandestineairsoft.com/electrical-parts-c-1_27/apex-python-mosfet-pcb-protected-low-resistance-fet-p-571.html
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