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Hello all. I want to build from the ground up a custom M249 (preferably Mk48 body style) SAW. I had an A&K Mk48 which I had an upgraded motor, the CNCed Bullgear hopup chamber (Not sure if airsoft gi is still selling it but that's where I got it from), and tight bore 6.03, some wiring which was built for the M249 but had to jerry rig it together as part of it came from one place and another section came from another place. Anyways It got stolen :( . So now I am thinking I should just build it from a frame that I can have milled down so its lighter IE remove the bipod shave off a large chunk of the available rail space get it custom rear wired with the crane stock from an M4 so I can put the battery in the back and drill in the front rail segment that could detach from bottom so it doesnt do in game. So I need need suggestions on who is known for building high speed electric builds (I would go HPA but that's too much of a pain in the :censored2: to fly with as I try to fly to events because I work for the airlines so it can cut down on my cost if I fly if the game is out of Washington State where I live) Any and all help would be appreciated so I can try and get a quote and start really saving the money I need for this build
Retro Arms M249 Gearbox Shell Overview: Made by Retro Arms, from the Czech Republic. Cost $176.19 The Gearbox weighs at least half as much as the regular cast one (sorry I didn't have anything to weigh it) Its made of EN AW 7075 T651 aluminum which is a very strong material. Has a beautiful black finish. Packaging: Plastic bag inside of a regular shipping bag with your invoice number and some retro arms stickers. This gearbox is probably the most beautiful gearbox I have ever seen! The finish is very clean and even, and it doesn't scratch off easily. This gearbox is also much lighter that the average cast one (at least 50%) which is a big plus because the m249's are already really heavy. There are also little metal pieces near each end which help hold the gearbox together when you don't have it screwed together. The knob that holds the tappet plate spring on is also modified so it doesn't pop off when your taking out your piston. So far all of my parts from my previous gearbox have fit except the SHS Cylinder head, which had to be drilled out to fit. Another positive about this gearbox is that it doesn't require the M249 proprietary bushing/bearings, now you can use ver 2 bushings/bearings. It fits perfectly in my gun, not too wobbly and not too tight. Customer service: When I ordered my gearbox they replied to my email the day after, and after a few emails I had bought their product. It was easy and simple, although you have to use paypal (which for some reason is a negative to some people).The day after I ordered their product they sent me a confirmation and my shipping number. It took 6 days to arrive, and I live in Georgia so it will take longer for west coast people. Keep in mind that they're not open on sat/sun and most holidays (with the exception of presidents day and MLK etc.) What it has stood up to: Two days ago my friend and I decided to test out an m190 spring with the spring guide spacer and a cylinder spacer. Using my modded JG Blue (which I was surprised pulled it) and some siegetek gears, I was able to shoot the gun at a solid 14 rps at an insane 710 fps (we used .2 gram bbs with a 6.02 tight-bore). In that day we ran through 3 14.8v 3000MaH lipo batteries, about 2 1/2 bags of 4000 bbs, and 5 shs 15 tooth pistons. That gearbox is perfectly fine. I inspected the whole thing and it looks just like new! In Conclusion: This gearbox is by far the strongest, best looking, and highest quality gearbox I have ever owned for any of my guns. It will last longer than any other part on your gun. I have yet to find a gearbox that can preform quite like this one does. If you want the best of the best, get this gearbox, because it can handle almost anything. 10/10 with flying colors! More Pictures First review, please tell me how I did and if I should add anything!
I have an A&K M249 that has suddenly stopped feeding. I put in a new air nozzle, replaced the wires with some thicker gauge wires, a weaker spring, and a faster motor. After reassembling, it couldn't feed. I replaced the air nozzle with the old one, because I noticed the hopup/inner barrel didn't line up with the feeding tube (ramp?). That didn't work. HOWEVER, when I pushed the barrel forward a bit, it fed. Any ideas as to how I can fix this without resorting to glue washers to my gearbox to shim the barrel? Anyone suffer similarly?