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Airsoft Lubricants - Silicone, Grease, Etc.

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Phantom Teflon AEG Gearbox Grease. I swear by this stuff. never ever had any issues with any of my 3 guns or any of my friends 9 total guns. works on metal and plastic parts.

 

CAUTION: May cause skin irritation. In case of eye contact, flush with wather for 15 minutes; call a psysician, for skin contact, wash thoroughly with soap and water.

(just putting this up here in case of any skin sensative people)

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One guy says he thinks 30wt shock fluid is ok does any body know for positive if its ok.

thanks

 

No, any "liquid" lube is going to be all bad. You want a grease that has some sort of adhesion quality, so it sticks to parts.

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I hate to burst everyone's bubble, but you do not have to use 100% silicon lube or any other lubricant that doesn't have petroleum in it. Somebody somewhere along the way made that up so they could make more money off of their silicon lubricant. Here's how I found this out:

 

I used to play paintball (I owned a Tippmann 98 Custom) and my marker's manual said to use Hoppe's 9 oil (a real steel firearm lubricant that does contain petroleum) if I didn't have any regular marker oil. Well, I never had any regular marker oil, so I always used Hoppe's 9. I used it on the plastics, on the metals... on everything in my paintball gun. That marker played without flaw for about four to four and a half years straight. I never had to replace anything.

 

So then I switched to airsoft and all I ever heard was, "NEVER use anything with petroleum in it!!!!" However, upon taking apart my gearbox for the first time, I couldn't tell the difference between the plastics in it and the plastics in my paintball marker. So I did some research and found this site: http://www.protectall.com/artmyths.htm. So, because I have ready access to tons of Hoppe's oil, I figured I would do an experiment since I'm going to end up upgrading everything in my AEG anyway. So I took apart my AEG, thoroughly cleaned every single last piece with a toothbrush and Dawn, and liberally applied Hoppe's 9 oil to everything (even the plastics) when I put it all back together. It has been over a week since I've done that, and everything in my AEG is working just like it did the day I bought it. I've taken it apart every day just to make sure, and the plastics haven't melted or started getting softer or anything like that. They feel just as strong as when I first took the gearbox apart.

 

So don't believe the rumors! However, DO NOT use WD-40 because that will destroy plastics and don't use anything intended for automotive use as it's stronger (and therefore more corrosive) and just too thick for airsoft use in the first place. Also read everything on the link I posted because it's all very informative. So, if you have silicon lube and you can get it for cheaper than other lubricants, then use it! But if you're in my situation where you can get stuff like Hoppe's very easily and for dirt cheap, then use it! It will not hurt your gun.

 

If you don't believe me, then by all means stick with silicon, but I think this whole thing got started through false advertising and stuff like that angers me, so I'm here to get the truth out.

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If you don't believe me, then by all means stick with silicon, but I think this whole thing got started through false advertising and stuff like that angers me, so I'm here to get the truth out.

 

I don't advertise, nor work for any company involved. And as you, I started out in paintball. I also worked hand in hand with a tech that was trained <AT> Indian Creek Paintball (aka ICD). They swear by DOW 33, as do a couple other companies.

 

 

I started into the investigation of "similar" or appropriate lower cost replacement lubes, while I worked as a heavy equipment shop. I had access to MSDS sheets, and product literature for literally thousands of lubricants from greases to hydraulic oil.

 

I learned 1 major thing. Hydro-Carbon based chemicals are used to produce many of the items used in paintball, airsoft, and other guns. The plastics, and rubbers used, can ALL be harmed by them. Now granted, exposure over time is the cause for breakdown. NONE of the MSDS paperwork, or product literature lists "Exposure Time" for sensitive items, it is just flat out not required by law, to be done. So it is never tested.

 

What I say, and what I stick to is: Why would you for any sort of convenience, use a chemical that will harm (again, over an unknown amount of time), the items in a gearbox. To me that just makes NO sense, of any kind, at all. Granted, a gearbox will need repair over time anyways. But why accelerate failure?

 

I have a CA M15A4 gearbox, that made it to over 100,000 rnds. I attribute that to the brand of lube I used, since most of the parts in it were STOCK, minus a spring and piston head.

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Yes, over time they probably will start to affect the plastics, but that time has to be so long that it's almost negligible. My paintball marker has, for four straight years (and that's not including the time before that), had constant contact with Hoppe's 9 oil, and it's still working like it was brand new. But, like I said earlier, if you just feel more comfortable with silicon or white lithium grease, or whatever, then stick with that. I personally prefer Hoppe's for the reasons stated in my last post.

 

I'm just saying that people are making petroleum lubricants sound so much more harmful than they really are. Everywhere I go, it sounds like people are saying that nearly instantaneously, petroleum lubes will start harming your gun. That's just not true (for the lighter lubricants, such as Hoppe's). If it will hurt the plastics, it's going to take a long time, as evidenced by my 4+ year old paintball marker, which still works perfectly fine.

 

I'm not trying to start an argument, I'm just getting the facts straight. As a final statement to clear everything up, petroleum based lubricants will harm plastics, but not nearly as fast or as bad as people make them out do (unless, of course, it's something heavier, like for automotive use).

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I'm not trying to start an argument, I'm just getting the facts straight. As a final statement to clear everything up, petroleum based lubricants will harm plastics, but not nearly as fast or as bad as people make them out do (unless, of course, it's something heavier, like for automotive use).

 

Bingo. You just hit the exact reason I am speaking about lube's. 90% of what people are purchasing are from Automotive or Hardware supply centers, which are pretty much "industrial" grade junk.

 

Some of the better made gun oils and lubes (again, without the harsh corrosion inhibitors) are not that bad at all. However, for the cost of them. Negligable benefit to cost offset. :a-thumbsup:

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Good luck with that...

 

On the can it says "100% HEAVY DUTY Silicone Spray, Waterproof, Rustproof & Lubricates. For Rubber, Wood, Plastic, Vinyl & Metal."

 

I cleaned my barrel 4 months ago and their is no change in performance, or any failures. Liquid Wrench seems safe to me.

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Okay I have read a lot of this post and want to ask a question. Sorry if its been answered, but I'd rather not screw up my gun. For the gear box, would white lithium or teflon grease be better? Which of the two wouldn't break down in the presense of silicone spray better? The reason I ask is because the owners manual says to spray silicone spray in the bb feeding hole on the gun so that it can drip into the gear box. My other question is what should I use to clean the barrel and should I use silicone on a cleaning cloth in the barrel after I clean it?

 

Almost forgot, is dielectric grease the best lube to use for the piston/air seal components? Thanks.

Edited by joedirtbike418

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Okay I have read a lot of this post and want to ask a question. Sorry if its been answered, but I'd rather not screw up my gun. For the gear box, would white lithium or teflon grease be better? Which of the two wouldn't break down in the presense of silicone spray better? The reason I ask is because the owners manual says to spray silicone spray in the bb feeding hole on the gun so that it can drip into the gear box. My other question is what should I use to clean the barrel and should I use silicone on a cleaning cloth in the barrel after I clean it?

 

Almost forgot, is dielectric grease the best lube to use for the piston/air seal components? Thanks.

 

 

Die-Electric grease works, but I personally find it a bit too thick.

 

Why would you have spray silicone lube in your gearbox ?

 

 

I NEVER spray silicone into my hopup, barrel, OR magazines. I've never had feeding issues. And I also argue the opposite of normal thinking. If there is no lube there in the first place, to attract the dirt to stick to it... That means LESS cleaning, and more functional time.

 

I do however, clean my barrels in the "normal" way. Using the cleaning stick, with cloth on there, and a spritz of silicone lube on the cloth.

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Die-Electric grease works, but I personally find it a bit too thick.

 

Why would you have spray silicone lube in your gearbox ?

 

 

I NEVER spray silicone into my hopup, barrel, OR magazines. I've never had feeding issues. And I also argue the opposite of normal thinking. If there is no lube there in the first place, to attract the dirt to stick to it... That means LESS cleaning, and more functional time.

 

I do however, clean my barrels in the "normal" way. Using the cleaning stick, with cloth on there, and a spritz of silicone lube on the cloth.

 

Makes sense about not spraying silicone into the mags, barrel, and hopup. But are you suggesting then not to spray it into the bb feed hole then? I still want to know if I should use teflon grease in the gearbox, and what you wouls suggest using on the airseal components.

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Makes sense about not spraying silicone into the mags, barrel, and hopup. But are you suggesting then not to spray it into the bb feed hole then? I still want to know if I should use teflon grease in the gearbox, and what you wouls suggest using on the airseal components.

 

I personally, have not tested ANY of the "Teflon" lubes. 99% of the teflon lubes on the market contain 1 "Hydro-Carbon" based chemical or another. So I tend to stay away from them.

 

And yes, I NEVER spray silicone lube into the BB feed tube of the hopup.

 

 

As for the "Air Seal Components", I still swear by Team Associated's "Green Slime", which is a silicone based shock o-ring and ball bearing differential lube. So far I have ran it, mixed with the stock CA lube, and by it's self, in many gearboxes with good long term results.

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OpSec66 what do you think of RC car differential lubricant silicon oil for gear box and cylinder, using very thick 30,000-50,000 weight (50k is like silicon glue almost, very thick and sticky) on the gears and thin 700-3,000 weight on the cylinder? This is what I use and it seems to do very well at keeping things running smoothly. The stuff comes in various weights which I find good for different temperatures and applications I.e. thinner weight oils in winter and with RoF mods and thicker in warm weather and for FPS mods. I see you have already said that you are not fond of shock oil, is differential oil the same thing or different? I find that the 20k weights and above do not spin off the gears in the time I generally let a mechbox go before cleaning and servicing it. I do that pretty regularly though when I am playing allot. But I have left a mechbox closed for about 5 months and 20,000+ BB's using 30,000wt oil on the gears and they looked well protected if a bit dirty when I finally opened that one up.

 

I switched for a few reasons, one of which is the mess lithium makes in the gearbox and how it seems to attract dirt more then silicon. Another is that this stuff is cheap for how long a tube of it will last. The main reason was that Mugen (the brand I use) pure silicon differential oil was one of the few things I could find that was for sure pure silicon and comes in such a wide range of different weights.

 

What do you think the resistance of a heavy weight oil does to the battery life and overall stress on the drivetrain of an AEG, vs a light weight oil? Is the trade off less protection and less resistance or will the light weight stuff spin off and leave me with no protection and metal on metal resistance? What parts do you use the 0wt shock oil on (I am guessing cylinder/piston head)?

Edited by ArmorerKen

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OpSec66 what do you think of RC car differential lubricant silicon oil for gear box and cylinder, using very thick 30,000-50,000 weight (50k is like silicon glue almost, very thick and sticky) on the gears and thin 700-3,000 weight on the cylinder? This is what I use and it seems to do very well at keeping things running smoothly. The stuff comes in various weights which I find good for different temperatures and applications I.e. thinner weight oils in winter and with RoF mods and thicker in warm weather and for FPS mods. I see you have already said that you are not fond of shock oil, is differential oil the same thing or different? I find that the 20k weights and above do not spin off the gears in the time I generally let a mechbox go before cleaning and servicing it. I do that pretty regularly though when I am playing allot. But I have left a mechbox closed for about 5 months and 20,000+ BB's using 30,000wt oil on the gears and they looked well protected if a bit dirty when I finally opened that one up.

 

I switched for a few reasons, one of which is the mess lithium makes in the gearbox and how it seems to attract dirt more then silicon. Another is that this stuff is cheap for how long a tube of it will last. The main reason was that Mugen (the brand I use) pure silicon differential oil was one of the few things I could find that was for sure pure silicon and comes in such a wide range of different weights.

 

What do you think the resistance of a heavy weight oil does to the battery life and overall stress on the drivetrain of an AEG, vs a light weight oil? Is the trade off less protection and less resistance or will the light weight stuff spin off and leave me with no protection and metal on metal resistance? What parts do you use the 0wt shock oil on (I am guessing cylinder/piston head)?

 

Personally I think too thick is just as much of a problem as too thin. I do however completely agree with the thought of using different thickness lubes for different applications (both gearbox and geographic location).

 

Now as to the thickness. As I said that too thick is just as bad as too thin.. It's not in relation to gearbox drag. I think the different viscosity of lubes would have on the electrical system via additional load, is so minimal its actually insignifigant.

 

I dislike Lithium grease for 2 main reasons. It separates, and it absorbs water. While most people think that is really no big deal. I live on the coast, and 2 of my playing fields are basically a couple hundred yards from the ocean. Salt Air + condensation = ALL bad in an enclosed area. As for it separating. The oil will seep out of the lube over time. Leaving you with a glue that will start absorbing more water.

 

Great huh?

 

This is why I tend to like and stick to using pure silicone based greases. Again Oils' are too thin viscosity wise, and won't stick to the gears. And will indeed over time leave you with no protection.

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So apparently this "green slime" stuff is good, and you recommend it for gearbox and air sealed components. But I'm confused, did you say it was alright to use in the barrel as well? You also mentioned the $2.99 Autozone lube: is that a case of "you get what you pay for", or does it actually work pretty well?

 

 

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I use NO lube on my barrels, Period. None what so ever. The only lube that my barrel will EVER see, is the lube applied to the area where the hopup bucking slides onto the barrel. I firmly believe in a clean DRY barrel, with high polished BB's, works better then a wet barrel. Since a wet barrel WILL draw dirt and dust into the lube.

 

As or the lube, someone else suggested the Die-Electric grease from autozone. While I believe it will work. I personally think its too thick, and I won't use it. I Still stick to using Team Associated's Green Slime.

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I have read through this thread, but I can't find a straight on answer.

I took apart my JG gun for the first time, and I decided to clean out all the grease and stuff...:O

Now, when I get my metal spring guide and metal bushings, I still can't put it back together. Because I need to lubricate the gearbox, right?

I want to ask if ICS silicone spray is in anyway reliable. And the same for CA gear grease. Because nothing else on there seems reliable on AirsoftGI.

If not, then there is an ACE Hardware close to my house, but I don't know if they have lubricants. What should I look for to be able to put my gun back together safely?

Edited by Coin3

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im confused, I just got the permatex white lithium grease but is has hydrocarbons!

the white lithium grease is for your gears/bushings. its fine to use greases/lubricants with hydrocarbons/petrolium dissiltates etc. on metal surfaces. you don't want any of that in anything rubber or plastic, ie ANY airseal parts. your going to want to get some petroleum free silicon gel or similar grease for any air seal parts.

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the white lithium grease is for your gears/bushings. its fine to use greases/lubricants with hydrocarbons/petrolium dissiltates etc. on metal surfaces. you don't want any of that in anything rubber or plastic, ie ANY airseal parts. your going to want to get some petroleum free silicon gel or similar grease for any air seal parts.

 

Uhm, NO. The grease contacts the piston AND get's slung around in the gearbox. Again over time Hydrocarbons will cause the deterioration of the plastic and rubber items in a gearbox.

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Uhm, NO. The grease contacts the piston AND get's slung around in the gearbox. Again over time Hydrocarbons will cause the deterioration of the plastic and rubber items in a gearbox.

I said its ok to lube the gears with white lithium grease, which it is. I said not to lube anything plastic or rubber with hydrocarbons/petroleum, which is what you just reiterated. im a little confused here.

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I said its ok to lube the gears with white lithium grease, which it is. I said not to lube anything plastic or rubber with hydrocarbons/petroleum, which is what you just reiterated. im a little confused here.

 

The gears SPIN. Thus causing centrifugal force to toss the lube OFF of the gears. Where it will then contact the poly, nylon, or other pastic resin piston, and other gearbox items that are plastic or rubber based.

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The gears SPIN. Thus causing centrifugal force to toss the lube OFF of the gears. Where it will then contact the poly, nylon, or other pastic resin piston, and other gearbox items that are plastic or rubber based.

uhm...alright. so basically your telling me that white lithium grease is useless. cool. I still use it on my gears and they have been spinning for quite some time, no malfunctions or lube contacting the plastic parts. white lithium grease is usually thick enough to not be effected by the centrifugal force of the gears spinning as ive found it.

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uhm...alright. so basically your telling me that white lithium grease is useless. cool. I still use it on my gears and they have been spinning for quite some time, no malfunctions or lube contacting the plastic parts. white lithium grease is usually thick enough to not be effected by the centrifugal force of the gears spinning as ive found it.
It's not useless. What I was getting at is 2 fold. 1: Extra lube WILL fly off. 2: Incorrect lube, will be flung off and will come in contact with items that it may harm.

 

 

A very interesting thread.

Say, my father asked me if it would be a good idea to use graphite oil to lube the gears (and only the gears).

Also, I was wondering what should I use to lube the 8mm bearing.

Thanks in advance.

Hmm I never thought of using a Suspended Graphite Lube. I'll give it a try and report my findings. Although, I think it may be hard to find a suspended graphite lube that does not contain a hydrocarbon based liquid to suspend the graphite in.

 

 

Is it worth to deal with them at all? Lubes add accuracy or something? Or they are just for good maintenance?
It's not a question of "is it worth it to deal with it?". It's a question of "what is your gun worth to you?" Your AEG is nothing more then a mechanical device with a specific purpose. The better you care for it (maintenance and repair wise) the longer it is going to last, and work "correctly" for you. If your shooting a $100 AEG that you don't care about, well certainly it's up to you. If your shooting a $300+ AEG, well most certainly it would be in your best interest to keep it running correctly and for as long as possible.

 

Personally, I treat ALL of my gun's (from my $100 to my $700+) The same. Any time they are shot, I clean them and go over them. If it's been any amount of wear or preset time span (I usually tear them down ever 20,000 to 30,000 rounds shot). And Clean, Inspect, and Lube the gearboxes and mechanisms (slides, etc). "Is it worth it?" Well my cheap $150 Cyma AK is now going on 2 years old. My $350 (at time of purchase) Classic Army M15A4 is now going on I think 6 years old. To me it is most definitely worth it.

 

T H A N K Y O U !

Your very welcome.

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(Comments on Soviet911's post that is edited into the first post in this thread.)

 

Your post is dang good info. People may want to also consider the effects that "Hydro Carbon" based items will have on rubber and plastics.

 

While many of the effects are delayed (quite a few petroleum distillates).. Propane, Butane are really not too harmful and are mainly there just as the propellant (as you also noted). The major issue is Naphtha, Kerosene, and any other liquid hydro carbon based item that does not "evaporate" quickly out of the product (Xylene, Toluene, Hexane, etc.).

 

Not all silicon sprays will have Alcohol as a solvent. Not all will have a liquid hydro carbon as a solvent. However many of them do have some sort of a blend. In all honesty, I'd rather have a hydro carbon based one (liquid butane or propane) based silicone spray since the liquid propane/butane will also be expended as a propellant. The issue with alcohol based solvents, is that alcohol tends to dry out rubber and plastic products. - Simply odd there huh? Using a spray lube, that has a solvent that may cause it to dry out...

 

 

In any case, I would recommend using products that do not contain any of the above mentioned "hydro carbon" based items, unless specifically listed "as a propellant".

Edited by OpSic66

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Been reading through most of the thread and it seems white lithium is, while good for gears, bad for airseal (plastic/rubber) parts. Dielectric, made of silicone, seems to be good for airseal parts. Silicone based grease can also be used for gears and silicone spray is used to lube mag feed holes, help clean barrels and help install buckings into the hop up. So with that said, wouldn't Permatex Dielectric Grease be good for just about everything? It's thick but if you use small amounts and rub it down thinly, spreading it around, it should work fine for areas like hop up, cleaning the barrel, etc. Lay it on thick, just not in excess, for gears 'cause it can handle high heat areas like spark plugs and also helps prevent corrosion. You won't have to worry about the grease flying into airseal areas 'cause that's what it is really good for. The grease is also water-proof, which by definition does not absorb water nor is it washed/ broken down by water. It's about $9 for a 3oz tube, which I'm guessing is plenty for several tune up sessions. I don't work for Permatex by the way. lol. Just from what I'm reading in this thread and specs on Permatex's Dielectric Tune-up Grease, this is what I'm thinking. Anyone have any thoughts about it?

 

It's much easier to just use 1 type of grease imo, 'cause you don't have to worry about it mixing with other lubricants or chemicals nor worry about which goes where.

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Is it petrol-based? If so you can't use it on anything compression/rubber related. I personally just use white lithium grease on most mechanical parts, and TM silicone grease (I actually purchased by accident) for compression parts. Hopup is cleaned/lubed with silicone spray.

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Is it petrol-based? If so you can't use it on anything compression/rubber related. I personally just use white lithium grease on most mechanical parts, and TM silicone grease (I actually purchased by accident) for compression parts. Hopup is cleaned/lubed with silicone spray.

 

 

It's silicone based. But why bothering getting silicone grease and silicone spray when they both do the same thing just different density and application. You can use the grease where you would use the spray version right? It's made of the same stuff after all. Just need to spread the grease thinly for where you would use the spray. Because Permatex Dielectric Grease is thick, it can be used in mechanical areas like the gears right?

 

So basically my question is, would Permatex Dielectric Tune-up Grease work well for all greasing/lubing applications in my airsoft gun?

Edited by EvangelCO

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To me, I think the DieElectric grease is just too thick. That's why I use the Team Associated Green Slime on everything. Works great on the gears and compression parts.

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