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Airsoft Lubricants - Silicone, Grease, Etc.

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Opsic, are you referring to the Permatex dielectric grease? I picked that up based on this thread's recommendation, and I must say the stuff works great.

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To me, I think the DieElectric grease is just too thick. That's why I use the Team Associated Green Slime on everything. Works great on the gears and compression parts.

 

 

What do you mean by too thick, that might be what's confusing me and possibly others. What are the cons of having grease that is too thick, in compression areas and in gears/mechanical areas?

 

Would using smaller amounts fix the thickness problem? It's a semi liquid type material after all.

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Guest OpSic66
Opsic, are you referring to the Permatex dielectric grease? I picked that up based on this thread's recommendation, and I must say the stuff works great.

Oh I would never say that it doesn't work, surely it does work.

 

What do you mean by too thick, that might be what's confusing me and possibly others. What are the cons of having grease that is too thick, in compression areas and in gears/mechanical areas?

Would using smaller amounts fix the thickness problem? It's a semi liquid type material after all.

 

It's tough to explain unless you had a tube of Dielectric Grease and a tube of TA's Green Slime in front of you. The Dielectric grease to me is just too thick and gooey. It actually restricts the movement of the o-ring in the piston head if you use too much of it.

 

Really its personal preference aside from the safety aspects. As long as your using grease that is not going to cause issues with your parts (harmful substances like hydro carbons), then in 99.999% of cases you should be fine.

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I've been using a combination of silicone greases , super lube on the gears, gunk brand silicone plumbers grease on the cylinder head & nozzle, and a very thin grease (can't remember the name label has rubbed off) but its like super lube as it contains PTFE on the piston o-ring, has been working well

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Guest OpSic66

Nothing. I do NOT believe in lubing the hopup OR bucking other then a small shot of silicon oil when installing it.

 

I believe in the "dry" method.

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I thought that keeping the bucking lubed prevents it from cracking over a long term period?

 

I would rather replace buckings from time to time, then have horrible accuracy because silicone is either coating the BB's or causing MORE dirt to stick to it.

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I would rather replace buckings from time to time, then have horrible accuracy because silicone is either coating the BB's or causing MORE dirt to stick to it.

 

Does the silicone actually cause accuracy to go down? And could someone just keep their bbs very clean to prevent dirt from coming in?

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<AT>OpSic66: so you prefer to use associated green slime on all parts of the gearbox? also, did you say that you don't like shock oil? because I found some green slime listed on amazon that is classified as shock lube.

http://www.amazon.com/Associated-Electrics...7511&sr=8-1

 

what do you think of this?

 

also are there different thicknesses of green slime that you use for different parts of the gearbox?

 

one more thing, what is your opinion on the permatex silicon oil that you reccomended, and what makes green slime better?

 

if you could explain what you use on each different part of the gearbox, how much you apply and why, that would really help to clear things up, at least for me.

 

finally, thanks, this topic is so informative, and I hope you can help as I value your advice, and would like for my aeg to be running in top condition.

 

edit: is this the right permatex grease?

 

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Diele...8702&sr=8-1

Edited by ctres94

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Guest OpSic66
Does the silicone actually cause accuracy to go down? And could someone just keep their bbs very clean to prevent dirt from coming in?

You should be keeping your bb's "extremely clean" in the first place. And unless your going to play in a clean room. There is ALWAYS airborne particulate matter (dust, sand, pollen etc...) that is going to cling to "damp" surfaces, much better then it would on a dry surface.

 

 

<AT>OpSic66: so you prefer to use associated green slime on all parts of the gearbox? also, did you say that you don't like shock oil? because I found some green slime listed on amazon that is classified as shock lube.

http://www.amazon.com/Associated-Electrics...7511&sr=8-1

what do you think of this?

also are there different thicknesses of green slime that you use for different parts of the gearbox?

one more thing, what is your opinion on the permatex silicon oil that you reccomended, and what makes green slime better?

if you could explain what you use on each different part of the gearbox, how much you apply and why, that would really help to clear things up, at least for me.

finally, thanks, this topic is so informative, and I hope you can help as I value your advice, and would like for my aeg to be running in top condition.

edit: is this the right permatex grease?

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Diele...8702&sr=8-1

 

 

Amazon is incorrect a lot of the time or just very vague on their listings. The green slime is made actually as a lube for the o-rings inside the silicone oil filled shocks (these o-rings seal the shock shaft hole in the body of the shock). I have found that it works extremely well as an all around lube inn the gearboxes on the gears, compression parts, etc. Since it's silicone based it won't harm anything. The only part of the lube that really sucks is finding a place that stocks it, and it's price vs volume of lube compared to other options.

 

The price amazon has it listed for is reasonable though.

 

 

And yes, the link to the Dielectric grease, that is the correct stuff.

Edited by OpSic66

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Recomended Lubes and Greases:

 

Permatex white lithium grease. Again from autozone in a tube for $2.99, works great for gears.

 

 

 

 

 

Something for everyone to think about... CRC's 808 "Pure Silicone Spray Lube" is:....

30-60% Liquified Petrolem Gas (LPG),

30-60% NAPTHA, You should know this is what "ronsonol" lighter fluid is made of.

10-30% Silicone. WTF.... Pure silicone spray my :censored2: ...

 

What this means to you is: The petroleum byproducts, distilates, etc... They are used in the manufacture process of many plastics and rubbers. While this is not any news of shock value. What do you think will happen when you expose an item (hopup rubber, etc.) to the same chemicals used to manufacture it. Yep, you got it. It's going to change it! And not in a good way either.

 

 

 

 

Cross posted with Soviet911's permission.

 

 

 

See post # 75 in this thread for my comments.

 

The white lithium Grease That I bought is Permatex White lithium grease.. Look on the back and it says "Caution: Contains Petrolium hydrocarbons.. So after all that about Petrolium hydrocarbons being bad, you reccomend one? I noticed you said it was good for gears and luckily that is all I Applied it to.... Did you mean specifically for gears? Also you reccomend the Permatex Dielectric grease and then later on say that you feel it is too thick... I'm struggling here to find consistancy..

Edited by **Taurus40**

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Did you mean specifically for gears? Also you reccomend the Permatex Dielectric grease and then later on say that you feel it is too thick... I'm struggling here to find consistancy..

 

I've used white lithium grease. On the gears only, and a very very light coating on them so that it doesn't fling off. Over time yes it will cause issues. I don't use the stuff any more personally. Also, I DID mention that I used it on JUST the gears. You even quoted it.

 

I also said that the Dielectric grease was too thick, in reference to using it on compression parts. However, the silicone dielectric greases I have come across, did not contain petroleum distilates.

Edited by OpSic66

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I've used white lithium grease. On the gears only, and a very very light coating on them so that it doesn't fling off. Over time yes it will cause issues. I don't use the stuff any more personally. Also, I DID mention that I used it on JUST the gears. You even quoted it.

 

I also said that the Dielectric grease was too thick, in reference to using it on compression parts. However, the silicone dielectric greases I have come across, did not contain petroleum distilates.

 

Correct no Petrolium distilates in The dielectric grease... However after installing these new gears and only using the white litium on the gears I am now having wicked crazy issues with my guns performance... Looks for " OMG im sick of IT" thread. Maybe they are related?

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I just ordered three tubes of green slime from one of your references and I can't wait for it to arrive. It's also available on toysonic.com where the shipping would've been cheaper for me (California to New York). As of now I use Guarder "Phantom" teflon grease and I love it. It works great on the gears and is relatively thick. Other then that I use a ICS silicone gear grease for the cylinder as it's not too thick and not too thin. Hopefully the green slime is better as I'm looking for a one-hit wonder.

 

I've used white lithium grease, the same that was already linked / pictured earlier in this thread and I can say I don't really prefer it. It does have petroleum (which I don't think is a HUGE deal) but it also seems to make a bit of a mess. Just don't over-apply it and you'll probably be fine.

 

Again, great thread, thank you and I can't wait for the green slime to arrive.

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A few points here:

 

1. White Lithium works ok... just be sparing with it (don't spray half a can into a gearbox). A little bit goes a long ways. Lithium grease is good in high shear applications (like gearboxes!) but does have to be serviced (changed) from time to time (yearly... or thereabouts) because it does harden up over time. Lithium actually is a bit hygroscopic (so it does inhibit corrosion in that way) but it doesn't displace water very well (as has been said)... that is because it is water soluble...

Lithium grease is well suited for bearing use in airsoft, but it is a bit heavy in automotive form. Hence why WHITE lithium is better suited.

 

2. Silicone is silicone is silicone... HAHAH No... the different "weights" are because silicones are a range of products... ranging from thin liquid to solid at room temperature... or even curable products that harden up when exposed to atmosphere or heat.

 

3. Not ALL Petroleum based products are automatically bad for your plastics in your gun. That being said, pretty much all the petroleum distillates in spray products, ARE.

 

So, what do I use on my guns? I'm a lot like Opsic, being a minimalist for the hop ups and mags. I will occasionally lube a mag that is acting up, by coating about 100 bbs in spray silicone and then dumping them into the mag and cycling them through. This will also lube the hop up, btw.

 

In the gearboxes, I switched over to a synthetic grease that is not commonly available on the market for our gearboxes. It is water displacing, it is extreme pressure shear resistant (so it doesn't break down) and it has a great cling factor without being too heavy. It also doesn't "dry out" or need to be changed nearly as often as white lith. It's made by BG products for motorcycle and atv use... again, not commonly available. If/when they release it in a small tube format, I'll let you know about it.

 

On my slides of my guns, I use a dry graphite lube product. SPARINGLY. This is a real steel firearms product I started using years ago, and it works very well on both metal and polymer guns. Never used it on my cheapo plastic guns, nor do I plan to. Those get spray silicone, then wiped off... and again, only sparingly.

 

When I clean barrels, I do exactly what Opsic describes, use the first swab with silicone, then dry after that. Works very well for me.

 

 

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Glad to have another respected, long time member posting in this topic.

 

Now I'm not 100% against use of Lithium Grease. As a matter of fact, I will indeed use it, if nothing else is available.

 

 

 

Jim, your also insanely correct, and I really should have (and I will edit my original post to show so).. About the "weight" or thickness of Silicone lubricants available.

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Glad to have another respected, long time member posting in this topic.

 

Now I'm not 100% against use of Lithium Grease. As a matter of fact, I will indeed use it, if nothing else is available.

 

Are you calling me old again??? :a-laugh:

 

Seriously, Your take on Lith is the same as mine... I use it when I have nothing else to use. I have built many, many guns years ago with it and with good success... it's just that there IS better stuff out there.

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I've tried Permatex Dielectric Grease and it's good stuff, but I see what opsic meant about too thick. Before lubing the gears, I had shimmed them to where I can spin the sector gear without much pressure. After applying the dielectric grease, the gears were tight. The grease worked well for air seal parts but for the gears, you have to sorta put some on, then take a lint free cloth and wipe it down. Whatever is left on the gears is all you need. Basically just lightly coat the gears with the grease. I'll probably get some Green Slime and see if it works better though.

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When I get around to needing to tear down my M4 again. I'll post up some photos of what the gearbox looks like running ONLY Team Associated Green Slime in it. So far she's at 15-20 thousand rounds after her 100,000+ round rebuild.

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As for the "Air Seal Components", I still swear by Team Associated's "Green Slime", which is a silicone based shock o-ring and ball bearing differential lube. So far I have ran it, mixed with the stock CA lube, and by it's self, in many gearboxes with good long term results.

 

do you put the silicon lube on the outside of cylinder head where it connects to cylinder? Does this help? thanks.

 

anybody can answer too.

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As per my PM to you. Yes, I also do lube the o-ring that seals the cylinder head to the cylinder. And use I use Green Slime there too.

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ok im not new to airsoft thats for sure but I am new to this lubricant thing. what exactly am I lubricating, the barrel, pistion or what. can someone please clarify

 

Lube the o-ring on the piston head with silicone grease or green slime lube as stated above - you can use the same on the outside of your hopup bucking to keep it from drying out

 

Lube the gears with a good gear grease intended for airsoft (everyone seems to like Guarder's grease) or white lithium grease, teflon grease or moly-d grease

 

For other parts of your gun like selector switches I use 100% silicone oil

 

Do not spray anything down your barrel. A barrel coated with silicone oil will catch dust and other debris that can lead to jams. Run a cloth patch with a little silicone oil down it to get gunk out and then run several dry patches through it to remove any remaining debris or silicone oil. If you have your barrel removed from your gun and the hop up bucking removed, you can use a number of other products to clean it inside and out so long as you make sure you do not leave any residue on it that might damage the hopup or bucking when you reassemble it.

 

Also, if anyone needs a guaranteed 100% silicone grease that is not going to kill your o-rings, check in your area for scuba diving shops - they use 100% o-ring safe silicone greases on air tanks and other gear for scuba diving. If those o-rings fail, you might die...the lubes they use on them are definitely o-ring safe and high quality. Aquaseal makes a 100% silicone grease intended for use on diving gear that is good. They also make a non-aerosol pump silicone lube spray that is 100% rubber/o-ring safe for diving gear that is silicone. It is cheap compared to the stuff they sell for airsoft - an 8 oz bottle is like $5.

 

Other options:

Lifespan fitness makes a pump spray (non-aerosol) 100% silicone spray lube for treadmill belts. If I recall correctly, it is overpriced compared to the stuff used for diving gear.

 

There is another one I just found that I have not had a chance to look up yet - it is LPS Laboratories Silicone spray lube which is supposed to be rubber and plastic safe. It claims to contain no chemicals that have been found to be cause reproductive or developmental toxins by the state of California...which leads me to believe the bottle may actually be completely empty. It also states that is contains no endocrine disrupters, carcinogens or asthmagens.

It is around $10 for a 13oz bottle.

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Also, if anyone needs a guaranteed 100% silicone grease that is not going to kill your o-rings, check in your area for scuba diving shops - they use 100% o-ring safe silicone greases on air tanks and other gear for scuba diving. If those o-rings fail, you might die...the lubes they use on them are definitely o-ring safe and high quality. Aquaseal makes a 100% silicone grease intended for use on diving gear that is good. They also make a non-aerosol pump silicone lube spray that is 100% rubber/o-ring safe for diving gear that is silicone. It is cheap compared to the stuff they sell for airsoft - an 8 oz bottle is like $5.

 

How in the heck could I forget about Aquaseal. Friend of mine is a Dive Master and used to do all the re-certs on my paintball (HPA and Scuba) tanks...

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No, not all lubricants are the same. This is definatly true for silicone sprays.

 

No, not all of them are "safe" for airsoft use.

 

NO WD-40, liquid wrench, PB Blaster, etc... or real steel gun products! (thanks BroodRed, I forgot this one)

 

 

What do you need to know, or do about this. - Well, read below.

 

 

Silicone spray lube: Generally any should work.....

Provided - it does not contain any: petroleum distilates, petroleum by-products, Hydro-Carbons, or any harsh petroleum based products,

Such as: Hexane, Heptane, Toluene, Xylene, Ethelene, Xylol, Toluol, Naptha, benzene or any other flamable substance! (aside from the propellents listed below).

 

If it is using ISO-Butane, or propane "as a propellent", that is fine.

 

 

 

 

Silicone Grease: (paste, non aerosol, whatever.. - This also goes double for ANY other type of grease.)

Again, you want a grease without the same chemicals listed.

Does not contain any: petroleum distilates, petroleum by-products, Hydro-Carbons, or any harsh petroleum based products,

Such as: Hexane, Heptane, Toluene, Xylene, Ethelene, Xylol, Toluol, Naptha, benzene or any other flamable substance!

 

 

 

Recomended Lubes and Greases:

 

Permatex dielectric grease. From autozone it's 100% silicone, and 5.99 a tube. Great for cylinder/airseal components. (Thanks GoLgo 13)

Permatex white lithium grease. Again from autozone in a tube for $2.99, works great for gears.

STTi Silicone Spray Lube. From your local Airsoft shop, or even online, Amazon carries it too!

 

Personally I Swear by "Team Associated - Green Slime". It is meant as a silicone based shock lube, for silicone oil filled shocks. This stuff is $2.50 a tube available at most hobby stores, or online. I use it for EVERYTHING. Gears, O-Rings, Piston, Piston head.. Etc. I have found there is NO problems in doing so. I tore down my CA M15A4 &lt;AT&gt; 1100 rounds, to upgrade it's spring, and piston head. I used this grease. That was over 35,000 rounds ago. All the gun has ever seen is a teardown, cleaning, and re-lube.

Tower Hobbies $2.39 a tube. or RC Planet $2.35 a tube.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Something for everyone to think about... CRC's 808 "Pure Silicone Spray Lube" is:....

30-60% Liquified Petrolem Gas (LPG),

30-60% NAPTHA, You should know this is what "ronsonol" lighter fluid is made of.

10-30% Silicone. WTF.... Pure silicone spray my :censored2: ...

 

What this means to you is: The petroleum byproducts, distilates, etc... They are used in the manufacture process of many plastics and rubbers. While this is not any news of shock value. What do you think will happen when you expose an item (hopup rubber, etc.) to the same chemicals used to manufacture it. Yep, you got it. It's going to change it! And not in a good way either.

 

 

While I am not completely against the use of Lithium Grease (specifically the thinner "White Lithium") variety. I believe it needs to be pointed out that it IS hygroscopic. Meaning it WILL absorb water. The bad part of this is, in doing so, the oil used to blend and thin it down gets displaced. This allows the lithium grease to thicken into a very thick paste and basically cause binding.

 

Also, Silicone lubricants are based off of "weight" (aka thickness). You will find everything from "0 weight" spray silicone, to upwards of 45wt shock oil. -=- I do NOT recommend using Silicone OIL's (be it spray, or drip bottle) varieties in the gearbox. Only Silicone Grease!

 

 

 

 

 

Cross posted with Soviet911's permission.

 

 

 

See post # 75 in this thread for my comments.

 

I liked this thread on the silicone oil, but I didnt see you mention if the dupont teflon silicone spray is good or bad for a airsoft gun, I saw the test on it but need to know if this is good for a full metal full auto co2 pistol,even though my gun is titled full metal I do notice polymer or plastic parts inside, it is a turaus pt99 full and semi auto pistol please help and thanks for your time

Edited by krazikev

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I tryed using the permatex dielectric grease and did not really like how sticky it was for a good air seal. It didnt seem to spread very evenly, so I mixed airsoft silicone spray with the permatex dielectric grease and it worked wonders. Just put both in your cylinder and it creates a great seal.

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I use plumber's silicon grease (bought at a hardware store)+silicone oil (30wt shock oil) mixed together for my cylinder and common moly grease for the rest. Never had a problem, but is it safe? I don't see where anyone has been using that kinda grease, but it gives an extremely good airseal, but only after you rub it into the cylinder a bit, its very thick at first, I usually thin it just a tad so it will spread.

 

I actually use soft set 300 gasket seal on my bucking and cylinder head. Its alcohol based so its pretty easy to clean off and safe to use. 5000 psi resistance. Combined with teflon (which it really sticks too) it forms a great seal with the grease.

 

Been using this for about 3 months. I was just using silicone oil with not nearly the air seal Im getting now. Im in the process of re-doing my entire rental force of 30 and will be using this method to re-lube. I have to do compression mods on them, correct AoE, install sorbo, etc.

 

 

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A lot to read but incase this wasn't pointed out. I always add silicone oil to the outside of the bucking. You are supposed to lightly add it so installing it is so super easy. Dry... I laughed when I read that. The silicone oil won't create an issue unless you overdo it. As for getting dirt in the gun, it gets in there no matter what you do. Magazines get dirty, mag wells, etc. You should clean it and especially if you play outside a lot. Gear grease is for gears and o-ring grease is for o-rings. Please don't mix the two. Useless to add silicone oil to gears. I slap my face and wonder what people do anymore.

 

Edit: Just noticed this is an old thread. Argh hate that. Sorry!

Edited by ZaCkOX

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Recomended Lubes and Greases:

 

Permatex dielectric grease. From autozone it's 100% silicone, and 5.99 a tube. Great for cylinder/airseal components. (Thanks GoLgo 13)

 

I found this forum while searching for a local supplier of 100% silicone oil. I need it for a totally different application than you do. I have to say that there is a lot of misinformation going around here. The Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease that you are talking about is NOT 100% silicone oil (or "silicone" as you put it) at all. According to the MSDS at the Permatex site, it is ">70% POLYDIMETHYLSILOXANE" (that's your 'silicone oil'), "<10% MODIFIED SILICON DIOXIDE" (some "sandy" filler), "0.5-5.0% OXIRANE, METHYL-, POLYMER (whatever that is). So it is around 70% silicone oil with the rest being fillers. I don't know how pure you need it for your application but I'd like it as close to 100% as possible for mine. That silicon dioxide bothers me. It is silica, sand. Granted it's milled to a fine dust but do you want that in your gun? I read in another forum that it can abrade o-rings. Don't forget, this is made to prevent high voltage arcing in distributor caps, not for lubrication. RC silicone "shock oil", which is like $5 for 2 fl. oz. on eBay, seems to be 100% silicone oil by the description but I won't be convinced until I see the MSDS. I have not been able to find one for any brand so far. It may "contain 100% silicone oil" but what percent of the product is the pure oil? Like you pointed out about CRC's 808 "Pure Silicone Spray Lube"--10-30%. And CRC's FOOD GRADE SILICONE is even worse. It has only "2-5% DIMETHYLPOLYSILOXANE". The rest is HEXANE ISOMERS (55-65%) and 1,1-DIFLUOROETHANE (30-40%). This is "food grade"?! I saw this recommended in another thread on this forum. Can anybody give me a link to an MSDS for any of the RC shock oils? That seems to be the best bet.

 

 

Edited by Laral13

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