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Brainplay

Constructing An Air Rig *56k Death*

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It's an anit-cant device, also known as a bubble level.

 

There are several different models. Just search 'anti cant device' in google, and you'll get a few other mounting options.

 

Chris

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Got a few questions on regulators.

 

http://www.discountpaintball.com/Evil-Shoc...hed_p_1495.html

Will this one work?

Description:

This kit is easily installed on the newer style 03, 04, 05, 06 Shockers. This kit lowers the cocking pressure of the marker and is easier on the paintballs. The kit will also make your marker more efficient because you are using less pressure to cycle the bolt each shot. This kit comes with 2 gauges installed (one 300 psi and one 600 psi); one for the working pressure of the marker and one for the output of the LPR. The LPR Kit allows a larger volume of air to the marker as well as reduces the kick of the marker.

 

Included in package:

 

* Evil Shocker LPR Blue polished

* O-ring

* Screw

* Instructions

 

If that one doesn't work, then I will most likely go with this:

AKA SCM III Regulator

http://www.pbreview.com/products/reviews/4002/

 

Thanks!

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While they could "possibly" work they amount of effort you'll need to put into them to just function will be alot. Both of those are LPR (low pressure regulator) that fit to a specific type of gun. The input and output nozzles/threads are going to be different than regular pressure fittings. The Evil Shocker is a prime example with the proprietary output valve that snap on the weapon and locks it into place. The SCM III is also proprietary fitted and in one model is a specific actuator pump. Remember you want something with either a bunch of 1/8 inch ports or a screw in 1/2 inch output with 1/8 inch port surrounding it.

 

If you're looking for cheap but effective stick with something like CP (Custom Products) Inline regulator <--doesn't have an extra port for a gauge =( or a Dye Hyperline II (low pressure spring kit installed 50-450psi). You can always find them on Ebay for around $60. A few posts down I listed a few good and not so good regulators to consider.

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I'm now among the ranks of people who have spent way too much money and run regulated HPA setups!

Hurrah!

 

I just got mine all together on my Tanaka M40a1.

 

I cranked it up to 190 PSI and it still fires very well. I think I'll be needing a G&G striker spring to get the most out of the higher pressures though.

It's extremely consistent. All I have on hand are KSC .28g BBs which are not very good for this, but they still went amazingly far.

The only thing holding it back right now would be the striker spring, and my hopup bucking. It got a little damaged when I tried to get it to work right with the 2roy VSR hopup conversion's nozzle, so I think the consistency of the hopup isn't perfect.

 

I'm loving the ability to adjust my power without any difficulty though, and the lack of gas cooldown.

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Alright, thanks brainplay.

 

The reason for the hpa/co2 rig is to regulate the psi, because the standard mag doesn't have a good way to regulate it on its own. So filling it with co2/hpa would lead to ridiculous fps spikes or something along that line, correct?

 

If this seems like a silly question, sorry. I'm just trying to verify my suspicions.

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Alright, thanks brainplay.

 

The reason for the hpa/co2 rig is to regulate the psi, because the standard mag doesn't have a good way to regulate it on its own. So filling it with co2/hpa would lead to ridiculous fps spikes or something along that line, correct?

 

If this seems like a silly question, sorry. I'm just trying to verify my suspicions.

 

Filling it with liquid CO2 would pretty much cause the seals to burst. The same with HPA. HPA starts out at extremely high psi and bleeds off slowly until the amount of psi being used is equal to that in the HPA pressure tank. Technically since we use so little pressure for our guns (120psi on average) you could lower rated pressurize a tank thats filled to 1000psi and use that. However, most if not all places will not fill a tank that isn't paintball rated to 3000psi for insurance purposes.

 

Tanaka and KJW magazines are made dealing with propane which operates at much much much lower pressures. Even at 130F (54C) you're only reaching 250+psi.

 

The question isn't anything new and I've heard it asked plenty of times before. This all really stems from airsoft grenades and the lack of understanding on their functions compared to gas guns.

Edited by Brainplay

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Technically since we use so little pressure for our guns (120psi on average) you could lower rated pressurize a tank that's filled to 1000psi and use that. However, most if not all places will not fill a tank that isn't paintball rated to 3000psi for insurance purposes.

 

What about using a shop air compressor? I have two, one is a huge man sized black monolith, and a small red one. The maximum pressure on the monolith is 130psi and the red one is 125psi. Assuming I got the right adapter, could I fill the mag with that?

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Brainplay,

 

Do you mind if I refer airsofters who are new to co2/hpa systems to your threads? I find myself answering the same 5 or 10 questions.

 

anyways,

 

The reason for the hpa/co2 rig is to regulate the psi, because the standard mag doesn't have a good way to regulate it on its own. So filling it with co2/hpa would lead to ridiculous fps spikes or something along that line, correct?

 

If this seems like a silly question, sorry. I'm just trying to verify my suspicions.

 

When your magazine is filled with green gas or propane, the resting pressure will be dependent on the ambient temperature. If is cold out, the resting PSI will be lower than average. If it is 105F and you left your magazine in the sun, the resting pressure will be higher than average.

 

The problem with this is that each of the many differing temperature events will produce a different FPS for your gun and thus you have will mostly likely have inconsistent shots. For example, over powered shots and under powered shots. ( I've known some cheaters try to cheat chronos by icing their magazines in a cooler, refs had no clue)

 

This is where regulated gas comes in, Co2 or HPA. Basically, if you can manipulate the gas to remain stable and expand to the exact psi each and every time you use your rifle, you will have a better way to gauge your shots because you know its FPS. regulated gas systems will not make your gun a 100 yard tack driver, but it is one piece of the puzzle when it comes to reaching the limits of your rifle.

 

 

 

What about using a shop air compressor? I have two, one is a huge man sized black monolith, and a small red one. The maximum pressure on the monolith is 130psi and the red one is 125psi. Assuming I got the right adapter, could I fill the mag with that?

 

If hooked directly to your magazine to plink around in your garage, then maybe. We use this method for playing around the shop with our classics.

 

But for use to charge a HPA tank and go on the field, that is gonna be a no go unless that huge black one was designed for filling scuba tanks. ( Which it probably isn't)

 

Stick with CP if you are looking for a budget build. Our group uses CP low regs for our co2 powered rocket launchers. (not a PVC + Ball valve, but an alum system resembling a huge pressure releif valve) They work very well and adding a separate gauge assembly shouldn't be too hard. Probably a Tee fitting with 3 female ports for Input/gauge/Output should do the trick.

 

They can be had for 40-60 dollars.

 

Of course there are also pre-made options. For example, Palmer's offers a complete tank setup for airsoft in the range of 120 or so...

Edited by MagnumBB

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Brainplay,

 

Do you mind if I refer airsofters who are new to co2/hpa systems to your threads? I find myself answering the same 5 or 10 questions.

 

Feel free to refer or even just copy paste from my threads. My biggest concern is getting accurate information to new or potential CO2/HPA users not fame. I would like to see more gas users on the field in the future. Accurate info helps dispell the myths, rumors, and fears that many have. Guys like you with your Cold Shot kit are helping that cause come along nicely.

 

While HPA appears to be the best choice (I treat that as rumor until I see concrete tests) I believe that CO2 with is compactness offers gas rifles users more flexibility that is needed on the field.

Edited by Brainplay

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Can you do this on any tanaka?

Lets say a Kar 98k?

 

Any airsoft rifle with a gas reservoir can be tapped and converted to use external air.

 

A member of my group has a Tanaka type 99 that uses the first stage regulator off a cold shot kit and it works wonderfully tucked way on a cut stick-grenade pouch attached to the stock.

 

As long as you are creative on you hose/rig placement options, the sky is the limit.

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Any airsoft rifle with a gas reservoir can be tapped and converted to use external air.

 

A member of my group has a Tanaka type 99 that uses the first stage regulator off a cold shot kit and it works wonderfully tucked way on a cut stick-grenade pouch attached to the stock.

 

As long as you are creative on you hose/rig placement options, the sky is the limit.

Thanks...

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Hello, I am FIJO from españa, Thank you for sharing the project, it is very interesting, but I need your help to find the pieces in ebay, I don't the exact name of the pieces and in the Spanish shops I do not find regulators of low pressure

Regards and thanks again

 

FIJO

 

In spanish you're looking for : guarniciones de cobre amarillo or Guarniciones de pipa aka brass fittings or brass pipe fittings. The items you'll probably need are Curva's (elbows) and Reductor's (reducers). Use the pictures above to find the type you need. Check your plumbing section (secion de plomería) at your local hardware store.

 

Finding a regulator will be a bit tougher if you can't find one on Ebay thats willing to send it to Spain. You can check paintball stores and find them there but they will definitely be more expensive if you do it that way. If you find a regulator but do not have any information, post it here and I'll try and help you there. I have some regulators listed on this thread that will work and some that will not work. Adding more information about regulators to this thread is always a good thing especially for our brothers in different countries (and languages).

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In spanish you're looking for : guarniciones de cobre amarillo or Guarniciones de pipa aka brass fittings or brass pipe fittings. The items you'll probably need are Curva's (elbows) and Reductor's (reducers). Use the pictures above to find the type you need. Check your plumbing section (secion de plomería) at your local hardware store.

 

Finding a regulator will be a bit tougher if you can't find one on Ebay thats willing to send it to Spain. You can check paintball stores and find them there but they will definitely be more expensive if you do it that way. If you find a regulator but do not have any information, post it here and I'll try and help you there. I have some regulators listed on this thread that will work and some that will not work. Adding more information about regulators to this thread is always a good thing especially for our brothers in different countries (and languages).

 

thanks man!!

I don't find in spanish shop, but I find in UK paintball shop

 

 

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Okay. I've constructed a functional air rig.

 

My problem is that my gun is shooting sub-200 at best. I've fiddled with the psi output, cranking it up to 110psi, and nothing changes.

I'm using a Tanaka long mag. I've checked all my seals, the only leak is a very slow one on the brass nozzle behind the bb tube. I've lubed the o-ring, and that helped, but didn't solve it.

 

I assume it's something to do with the bolt. I've disassembled it a couple of times and added and removed tension to the spring. Nothing has worked.

 

Any suggestions?

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Okay. I've constructed a functional air rig.

 

My problem is that my gun is shooting sub-200 at best. I've fiddled with the psi output, cranking it up to 110psi, and nothing changes.

I'm using a Tanaka long mag. I've checked all my seals, the only leak is a very slow one on the brass nozzle behind the bb tube. I've lubed the o-ring, and that helped, but didn't solve it.

 

I assume it's something to do with the bolt. I've disassembled it a couple of times and added and removed tension to the spring. Nothing has worked.

 

Any suggestions?

 

Sounds like air is escaping along the path somewhere before reaching

Some quick troubleshooting questions.

1) Do you have a stock bolt or an upgraded power bolt?

 

2) Is there any excessive wear marks on the bolt's air intake hole (large hole on bottom) of bolt.

 

3) When adjusting pressure between 80psi and 110psi how much does your fps increase and decrease (if it stays uniform more or less then please say that).

 

4) Did this ever happen before making the switch from propane to Co2/HPA?

 

5) Are you using the stock spring or an upgraded spring?

 

Things to check (check after answering the questions).

 

1) Check to see if the air nozzle reaches all of the way into the hopup/bb chamber. You can do this by applying grease around the air nozzle, closing the bolt, opening it and checking to see if the grease has been disturbed.

 

2) Check for a good magazine to air bolt mating. On newer magazine the fitting may seat the release valve on the magazine (the brass valve near the bb's) far enough from the bolt's air intake valve that the air escapes around it. Apply a square of electrical tape over the air intake hole. Short stroke your bolt (only pull back an inch). The tape should show indention marks where the brass nozzle traveled over it.

 

3) Check to see if pressure is reaching your magazine. If you used a brass or steel fitting or have a quick disconnect setup then simply remove it from the magazine and attach a gauge to the very tip. You may need a brass coupling which will cost you another $0.60 at your local hardware store (oh noes!). If you don't have a spare gauge just mark the adjustment locations on your regulator, remove your primary gauge, plug the gauge's former location with the grommet that came with your regulator, and use at the tip of the remote. We're trying to see if there may be a blockage in your remote line somewhere.

 

4) Check both the barrel and the bolt's nozzle for obstructions.

 

5) Check if there are major variances in fps with the hopup on and completely off. Always the chance that your hopup is pushing way too far into the chamber and slowing down the bb.

 

6) Check for excessive wear on the anvil part of the magazine.

Edited by Brainplay

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1) Do you have a stock bolt or an upgraded power bolt?

-Stock bolt. I bought my KJW used, so I assume everything is stock, save for the mags.

 

2) Is there any excessive wear marks on the bolt's air intake hole (large hole on bottom) of bolt.

-The rubber on the intake hole looks worn, yes.

 

3) When adjusting pressure between 80psi and 110psi how much does your fps increase and decrease (if it stays uniform more or less then please say that).

-More or less uniform. 200fps is optimistic. I'd say it stays between 60 and 100fps.

 

4) Did this ever happen before making the switch from propane to Co2/HPA?

-I can't say, as I never shot it before tapping the mags. I might be able to procure some green gas and test the remaining, untapped mag.

 

5) Are you using the stock spring or an upgraded spring?

-I assume it's the stock spring. I bought it used, so I can't say for certain.

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3) When adjusting pressure between 80psi and 110psi how much does your fps increase and decrease (if it stays uniform more or less then please say that).

-More or less uniform. 200fps is optimistic. I'd say it stays between 60 and 100fps.

 

Need a little clarification here. You're staying on average you only get between 60fps and 100fps out of your rifle or are you saying there is a 60 to 100 fps difference when you adjust your pressure from 80psi to 110psi.

 

If in fact its the first one and the fps is not really changing then its a pressure problem. I want to say its probably from the magazine but until you can confirm that your rig is in fact putting out the correct psi at the end point of the remote line (the point before it enters into the magazine) I can't say for sure. Its always possible something is blocking pressure from reaching the mag.

 

If its magazine related then more than likely you have an obstruction keeping the valve from opening completely or the rocker arm may have been effected. Its always possible a piece of metal is lodged there from when you tapped the magazine. You'll want to do a full dis-assembly of the magazine again. Be sure to remove the actual valve near the bb container as well as the back of the magazine with the rocker arm.

 

 

**My responses will be slow for a couple of days as my computer's motherboard just died and I can only use my work computer for so much. So much for a new PDI barrel!

Edited by Brainplay

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I got most of the necessary parts, but Home Depot was out of 1/8 plugs, and I got a 1/8 x 1/4 adaptor and a 1/4 cap, but the adaptor has coarse threads and I need fine. I'll be heading back some time this week.

 

"Need a little clarification here. You're staying on average you only get between 60fps and 100fps out of your rifle or are you saying there is a 60 to 100 fps difference when you adjust your pressure from 80psi to 110psi."

 

I'm using a terrible regulator at the moment. I salvaged it off of a portable air tank. It has a max output of 100PSIG (what's the G stand for?) and I assume that it's only putting out somewhere around 80psi or so.

 

I have to go. I'll edit this post with more info later.

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I'm using a terrible regulator at the moment. I salvaged it off of a portable air tank. It has a max output of 100PSIG (what's the G stand for?) and I assume that it's only putting out somewhere around 80psi or so.

 

Thats probably your problem there. Portable air tanks are hardly reliable for the kind of precision air regulation we require. They are rarely calibrated and can give varying results. Should probably leave it to an air brush where it belongs and start saving up for a better regulator. Oh and the G just stands for "gauge". Pounds per Square Inch Gauge.

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Thats probably your problem there. Portable air tanks are hardly reliable for the kind of precision air regulation we require. They are rarely calibrated and can give varying results. Should probably leave it to an air brush where it belongs and start saving up for a better regulator. Oh and the G just stands for "gauge". Pounds per Square Inch Gauge.

 

Yea, I assumed as much. I'm trying to get ahold of an actual quality regulator before an event on the 20th, but I doubt it's going to happen.

I'm gonna follow your suggestion and by a CP shorty.

 

Edit: I have a quick release fitting, but it doesn't form a great seal. If I wiggle it with my hands, gas escapes. I wrapped the nipple with yellow teflon tape, but it didn't help tremendously. Any suggestions?

Edited by p4ndora

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Yea, I assumed as much. I'm trying to get ahold of an actual quality regulator before an event on the 20th, but I doubt it's going to happen.

I'm gonna follow your suggestion and by a CP shorty.

 

Edit: I have a quick release fitting, but it doesn't form a great seal. If I wiggle it with my hands, gas escapes. I wrapped the nipple with yellow teflon tape, but it didn't help tremendously. Any suggestions?

 

If you're using the nipple and QD that came with the remote there isn't too much other than wrapping it some more (although that sometimes fixes the problem altogether). The shaft on the nipple (this is PG rated guys) is too short to be completely stable. I had similar problems since I added a heavier slide check to the quick disconnect. One other person mentioned adding another o-ring of larger size but I have never tested that before and not sure if you will even be able to lock the QD into place. After I got a long mag and attached a 90degree elbow I didn't have any other leakage problems as I was able to bind my hose to the rifle stock.

 

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I'm probably going to be picking up a used KJW m700 in a week or two, and I want to set it up for external air (probably 12g co2)

I'm going to be chopping it and running with it in a scabbard as a sort of scout rifle for shots beyond 200', so I need the rig to be completely contained on the rifle. I'm still trying to decide between a pouch on the stock or trying to fit everything in the stock.

 

I'm stuck on the regulator though. I need something small enough to fit in the stock, but able to be easily configured with the 12g quick charge (probably the RAP4, looks pretty small)

I'm thinking of getting THIS, can the quick charge screw directly into the bottom, or would I need to build an adapter?

Also, is there anything cheaper with the same size and layout? Poor college student and all :a-angry:

 

I also don't want to have the coiled hose, is there anything I could use instead of that? I saw someone mention a macro line, but could it handle the pressure? Anything specific I need to look for?

 

-DFM

 

 

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A thread tap that starts at 11/32 and expands to 1/8? I've never dealt with thread taps before and can't tell if this is a typo or just naturally confusing.

 

Just get a tap sized for 1/8. They pretty much all start at 11/32 and flare out to accept 1/8npt fittings. 1/8NPT is NOT 1/8in. I had a bit of a hard time with that at first. I believe the 1/8 to be the size of the threads.

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The Palmers reg is indeed attached at the bottom and the end result would give you a rather long pipe looking setup. More than likely longer than the available space in your stock. You're better off attaching the setup to your scope ir a bag on your rifle. You would still need to have your air line exit some place from your stock much like a rifle bag does.

 

High pressure fitting usually are not 1:1 matched fittings. As Vulrath mentioned they do indeed flare out biting deep into the metal. The makes a fitting less reliant on a coating like teflon or loctite to seal itself and less likely to fail.

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Hey guys, I am building a rig for my WE scar. I got this regulator, but I am really not sure if it will work. Was relatively cheap off ebay for 36.50.

 

http://cgi.PLEASE DO NOT LINK TO EBAY SITES. COPY AND PASTE AD DETAILS HERE - THEIR ADS GO AWAY AFTER 90 DAYS/Pro-Team-Paintball-Gun...#ht_1863wt_1165

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