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The Art Of Upgrades

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The Art of Upgrades

A guide for internally modifying your AEG, do-it-yourself and conventional upgrades

Written by Pierce G., A.k.a. *Aqua Donkey*


Outline:
-Introduction
-Overview of upgrade possibilities
-Electrical Upgrades
-Barrel and Hop-up Upgrades
-Gearbox Upgrades
-DIY Modifications
-Gearbox
-Barrel + Hop-up
-Electrical
-Mods I have used


..::Introduction::..


Why do we feel the need to upgrade? To obtain the advantage? To elevate our game? To extend our abilities? To answer this, yes, upgrading your Automatic Electric Gun will give you certain advantages over the enemy depending on how you upgrade your gun. This guide will hopefully open the doors to your mind about upgrading your AEG using conventional enhanced parts, or do-it-yourself modifications if you are thrifty. Personally, I have had experience with both of these and of many kinds. This will contain my two cents on upgrades, as well as tips, guides, and ideas for you. In end result, hopefully you can use this guide to your advantage, and make your AEG a “newbie-pwning machine” or just a fine work of art. I will also be adding in examples of parts and modifications that I have had experience with.


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..::Overview of Upgrade Possibilities::..


When you first think about upgrading one of your guns, you should definitely try to create a goal; what do I want my gun to excel at? There are myriad upgrading options, here is a broad spectrum of upgrades. Later in the guide, it will be far more in depth.
- Barrel
- Hop-up
- Electrical Components
- Compression parts inside the gearbox
- Mechanical parts inside the gearbox

At this point, you should have an idea of where you want to go with your AEG. Do you want to have a high FPS? Do you want it to have a high ROF (rate-of-fire)? Do you want endurance so you do not need to worry about your gun breaking? Do you want more range and accuracy? All of these can be associated with what role you play or are trying to replicate, whether it being a standard rifleman, support, sniper, or anything else. Also, take in to account of what your field is like, maybe if there are only going to be closer-quarter engagements, you should focus on ROF. Or if you play on a more open, mountainous region, you should focus on having more range and accuracy. Once you break it down into these categories, you can still be more specific. For example, I want more range and accuracy. But there is a certain point in my accuracy where I desire a spread of the bb’s to make a more effective support role. You would focus on your barrel and hop-up, but make a change in a specific part to obtain good accuracy, and purposeful in-accuracy at a certain range.


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..::Electrical Upgrades::..


In most cases, electrical upgrades are a more cost-effective way to enhance your gun. While you cannot obtain a higher FPS with electrical upgrades, I would say that upgrading electrical components can increase your ROF and the longevity of your gearbox.



..::Wiring Options::..

Changing your wiring can be an easy and cheaper method to get enhanced results. Most guns, especially clones, come with 18-awg wiring. This wiring is stiff, and does not transfer the flow of electricity the most efficiently. You can get better quality 18-awg wiring if you like having stiffer wiring that can bend and conform to your liking, such as getting silver wiring instead of copper. The most common wiring upgrade would have to be installing Deans brand 16-awg silicone wiring, a.k.a. “wet-noodle” wiring. This wiring has a much lower resistance, and is also far less stiff. A downside of this is that it does not stay in place because it cannot hold its form. Even so, that is opinion whether it is bad or good. From installing this wiring, you will most likely obtain a greater ROF, maybe 1-3 RPS (revolutions-per-second). I have this wiring in one of my AEGs, you can find this in 3ft sets on Ebay for $6 shipped.

..::Connector Options::..


All but a few guns come standard with Tamiya connectors. Whether it be large or mini connectors depends on the gun. These connectors are standard in most electrical hobbies such as RC cars and helicopters too. They do their job well, but if not soldered well enough, they can come very loose or even fall off. They are also not the most efficient connectors in the realm of electric flow. Deans connectors rank supreme over Tamiya. Upon installation, a 1-3 RPS increase can be expected. I have Deans connectors on all but two of my batteries (2/6) but will complete converting all of my guns soon. These sets can cost anywhere from $2-5 a pair depending on where you look. Ebay is the best option; you can get 5 pairs for $11 shipped if I remember correctly.
..::Motor Tabs and Related Parts::..

You cannot do much with these parts, but one reputable company, Prometheus, offers gold connector pins and motor tabs. As you may know, gold is an excellent conductor and will work great on AEGs. I have no experience with these, but I thought it might be worth mentioning
..::Mosfets and Capacitors::..

One of the newest trends in upgrading AEGs has been installing Mosfet systems and Capacitor Banks. These upgrades will increase your ROF a hefty amount, up to a 30% increase in some cases. A Mosfet is a single component that attaches to your negative wiring. In essence, you solder a couple leads on and these babies will ramp up your ROF as well as help prevent arcing on your contacts, which is a bad thing. A popular variation to these is the Active Breaking Mosfet (or AB Mosfet) which has a positive and negative component and is more difficult to install. The Active Breaking technology immediately cuts off the current as soon as the trigger is released so there is no motor over spin and a crisp, sharp tone coming from your gun. These Mosfets are even more beneficiary and will help protect your contacts even more. Capacitor Banks are also becoming more popular. In layman’s terms, it is like a single battery cell with negative and positive leads. It stores extra charge from your battery which increases battery life and ROF, you will even be able to shoot a couple rounds with your battery unplugged! Capacitors are proven to increase your ROF by up to 20% alone. Please make sure you install all of these correctly, Capacitors are dangerous if the polarities are reversed and Mosfets will short out if installed wrong. I have experience with both of these; I am installing an AB Mosfet into one of my guns as well as one for a friend. I also have a capacitor too, although it is too big for my gun (it is the most powerful: 16v 22000uF). Mosfets are cheapest when you buy them from 1st party producers, such as people who make a couple to them to sell on forums. I bought mine from TAMU John from AirsoftForums with the Capacitor and two Poly-fuses for $42, alone the AB Mosfet was just $24 compared to manufactured ones which range from $50-100.

..::Batteries::..


Depending on your perspective, you may not consider buying a better battery an upgrade, but I do. In my opinion, batteries are often over looked and people buy them just because they need them without looking to see how powerful they are.
Here are just a few tips:

- Good cell brands (in popular order of effectiveness) include: Elite, Intellect, Sanyo, and Powerizer. If your battery is not one of these brands, then it probably isn’t that good. The equivalent battery with one of these companies cells will out-perform your battery.

- Some people say that Powerizer is not a good cell producer. In my opinion they are very good, not as good as Intellect or Elite, but some of their batteries are great. For instance, my 9.6v 4200mah Powerizer battery outperformed my Intellect 9.6 3600. You may think, “Well it has more Mah so of course it will be better”, but in a smaller margin of difference like that 600 Mah, it is basically the same.

- 9.6 batteries are substantially better than 8.4’s. There is no reason why you should be scared that your gun can’t handle a 9.6. Of course, because your gun is shooting more, your parts will wear out faster, but we all will die eventually right? Most importantly, most guns cannot pull springs shooting harder than 450fps without a 9.6. Even at 400fps, if you are using an 8.4, your gun will shoot slower than a springer, well in reality, just really and undesirably slow.

-Lipo Batteries are AMAZING! Although they exceed Nimh and NiCd batteries in almost every aspect, they do require extra maintenance. Be sure your gun can handle one too, they offer a way higher discharge rate than other batteries. Lipos come in 7.4V and 11.1V, but the performance can be measured by the number of “C”. A 30C Lipo will produce a crazy ROF, while 12C is like an 8.4 large battery. The only gearboxes that can handle them stock without much question is KWA and Systema Drop-ins.

-With extremely high discharge rate batteries, Tamiya connectors will heat up as well as wiring because of their resistance levels, so make the switch to Deans!

*Just one more thing about batteries people. I felt I should mention this because I almost burnt my house down and ruined a great battery: DO NOT CUT BOTH WIRES AT THE SAME TIME WHEN CHANGING CONNECTORS OR ANYTHING! You will see a big spark, and lots of smoke, and you will be scared ****less. I know this is a common rule, I knew, but I forgot, and I almost lost a huge battery because of shorting out, and I almost lit my Christmas tree on fire.*


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..::Barrel and Hop-up Upgrades::..


Oh goodie! My favorite part! I say this because I always upgrade my barrel and hop-up first thing in new guns, here is why:
- B&Hup upgrades DO NOT stress the gearbox, which is obvious, and good.
- B&Bup upgrades are the only substantial thing that will increase your accuracy and range. What matters if you are shooting 450fps but cannot hit a target 120 ft away?
- B&Hup upgrades can be cheap, but still very effective. Of course, you can spend a lot of money, which will increase your performance a lot more.
- With these upgrades, you don’t have to worry about opening your gearbox. Hop-ups are a lot easier to work with than Gearboxes.



..::Barrel Upgrading Options::..


When changing your barrel, you have some things to consider such as the bore of the barrel. Here are some companies and what barrels they produce (This is in popular order from Best to Worst):
PDI, 6.01 and 6.05
EdGI, 6.00, 6.01, 6.03
Prometheus, 6.03
Nineball/Laylax, 6.03
DB Customs, 6.01
Guarder, 6.04
KMTN, 6.04
Madbull, 6.03
Systema, 6.03
JBU, 6.03
Tanio Koba Twist, 6.03 (has rifling, but cannot be used in over 330 fps guns with hopup)
G&G, 6.04 (comes stock with G&G guns)
Classic Army, 6.04
CYMA, 6.04 (comes stock in newer CYMA guns)
STAR, 6.05 (comes stock in STAR Guns)

As you can see, tightbore barrels usually range from 6.05 to 6.01 (or even the extreme 6.00). Standard bore barrels are usually from 6.07-6.10, the most popular being 6.08. Now here is the controversial part of barrels. I have heard a great deal about difference in bore. It is not the tighter the bore, the better barrel. It is the tighter the bore, the more better groupings and FPS gain. The larger the bore (still tightbore, like 6.05) the better the range. Now this is just a myth, so don’t attack me for it. And you cannot compare a PDI 6.01 to a STAR 6.05, I mean comparing both PDI barrels. Another subject of controversial matter, is that barrel length does not matter in airsoft. I support that to some extent. I believe of course, a 510mm barrel is going to be more effective than a 155mm (same bore), but when the difference is like 50mm, I do not believe there is that much difference. So far, I have had experience with three different tightbore barrels: Prometheus, Madbull, and CA (yes, I measured the bore of my CA G36 and it was 6.04). The Prometheus is best by a long shot, but it is also $20 more expensive than the others (but that is a step you should definitely take). The Madbull barrel did not perform that much better than my stock barrel in my CA G36. It was not a waste of $30, but not near as effective as the Prometheus. The CA was just a stock barrel, but had very good accuracy, better than the Madbull, but not better range. The Prometheus barrel for a 510mm is $65 I think, the Madbull and CA can be found for $30. Keep in mind that Prometheus raises price in ascending barrel length. Also, the in the case of barrels, the brand means everything (well a lot). Don’t go out and buy a Madbull barrel over a PDI because the bore is smaller. Prometheus and PDI barrels are made a lot better than any other barrels, they are stainless steel, unlike the cheaper metal (brass) that the others use. Also, some of the cheaper barrels (madbull, JBU, KMTN) have Teflon coating which will wear out and render performance to a minimum after extended use.

..::Hop-up Buckings::..


Just to say, many inexperienced people confuse the Hop-up and Bucking, well, they are very different. Anyways, Hop-up upgrades are also very beneficial like barrel upgrades, and are relatively cheap. The bucking, a.k.a. “hop-up sleeve” or “hop-up rubber” is a smaller piece that fits over the barrel. A portion of the bucking covers a hole in the barrel where the nub pushes the bucking down to pressure the bb (thus, the whole hop-up design). When the bucking is pressured down, it creates the backspin, which is the whole point of hop-up, and without it, airsofting would not be as fun, so let us all thank the bucking and nub! Now you might say that there is no difference in a piece of rubber, but they are a great difference in brands. Here are some brands in most popular order from best to worst:

Firefly
Prometheus
TM (stock bucking)
Systema
Guarder
G&P
Madbull

I have experience with Firefly, Prometheus, Systema, and Madbull. The best was definitely the Firefly, but they can cost $16 which is almost three times the cost of the Systema bucking. The firefly is very fragile, it ripped horribly, but it performed so nicely. Coupled with my Prometheus barrel and Prometheus Neo Strike Chamber, I was getting 200+ ft shots easy shooting 300 with .25 TSD bbs. The Prometheus bucking is the replacement for the firefly and is amazing, but just not as good. The systema is just a step up from the standard bucking and the madbull is just bleh….it’s okay I guess. Keep in mind that there are Hard and Soft variations, DO NOT GET A HARD BUCKING unless you are shooting around 500fps or higher, if you use one under this fps range, your gun will just plain suck. All of these buckings I have used cost from $6-$16.

..::Hop-up Nubs::..


The nub is a vital part of your hop-up assembly, it presses down onto the bucking which gives it the backspin. Nubs are overlooked, well, they are pretty standard, but a Prometheus nub will be a little better than an Echo1 nub, I can guarantee that. I want to talk about nubs specifically to mention the H-nub. This nub has a groove cut into the middle so that it centers the bb inside it resulting more consistently straight shots. Element and Big Out make H-nubs, the Element can be found for under $5 in a two pack, and the Big Out is $11 for only one. I doubt there is much difference between the two.

..::Hop-up Chambers::..


Hop-up Chambers are also a good component to consider upgrading. Not all gun models have aftermarket chambers, but some do such as the AUG, M4, G36, AK, and maybe a couple others. The most well known upgrade chamber is most likely the Prometheus Neo Strike Chamber. It is the standard step to greatness in m4 chamber options. Guarder and Systema also rival Prometheus in this realm, especially Guarder which some say it is better than the Prometheus in over-all “bang for your buck”. While the M4 has the most chambers available, Prowin makes CNC’ed chambers for the AK and G36 known for its shocking bright blue metallic appearance. Basically, all of these upgrade chambers share the similar quality of being full metal, which is believed to increases consistency in compression. I have experience only with the Prometheus Neo Strike Chamber, and will soon by the Prowin G36 hop-up chamber.


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..::Gearbox Upgrades::..


The most upgrading potential lies within the gearbox. I do not want to deter you, but I believe the most effective upgrades lie elsewhere, but nevertheless it is important to know how to upgrade your gearbox and replace parts. Every piece in the gearbox is replaceable not all can be “upgraded”. The parts of the gearbox can be broken down into two categories; Compression and Mechanical. From these two categories, you can decide the route of upgrading you want to choose whether it be one or both. Here is a list of parts and which category they fall in to:

Compression
-Cylinder
-Cylinder Head
-Air Nozzle
-Piston Head
-O-rings

Mechanical
-Gears (Bevel, Spur, Sector)
-Piston
-Tappet Plate
-Anti-reversal Latch
-Motor
-Pinion Gear
-Spring
-Spring Guide

With these categories, I will break it down into two sections and give you an idea on some upgrades.

..::Compression Related Upgrades::..


In the compression sector of the gearbox, there are not many upgrades to increase performance but more so to maintain perfect air compression and keep things from going wrong that result in inevitable fps loss. The Cylinder, Cylinder Head, and Air Nozzle are parts that can’t really be upgraded, one company might be made a little better than the other, but there is not real performance difference. The only time where one of these should be changed is when a barrel length is changed. The cylinder with the appropriate design should be installed to prevent an fps loss. But it is not a must because you will only lose 1-5 fps in most cases unless you are changing a barrel with a difference of 200mm or more from your old barrel. The Piston Head is one part that can make a difference. There are silent Piston and Cylinder Head sets that will make your gun less audible, but it is recommended to not stray beyond 350 fps with these parts, although this is only believed by some. Silent set-ups also create an air-brake effect which lowers fps, but increase gearbox durability with an air cushion every revolution. Some Piston Heads, like the Systema Duracon Piston Head have been proven to increase fps from 5-20 fps in some cases, I for one can recommend this part. O-rings are crucial to your guns performance. One event, my g36 should have been shooting 430 with .2’s, but instead, because of a bad o-ring, it chrono’ed in at a steady 295. It is important to replace your O-rings every couple times you open your gearbox, just so you have a fresh one with a good seal. A newer product that has been starting to replace O-rings is X-rings. These are very similar but with a slightly different design to give your gun “perfect compression” and will allegedly “increase your fps by 80” (yes, that is a direct quote from a seller of these). I have heard these X-rings aren’t that great, and do nothing no where near increasing your fps by 80, but we will see as they become more popular.

..::Mechanical Related Upgrades::..


As far as upgrading, there is a lot more potential in the mechanical area of the gearbox compared to the compression related parts. There are two basic paths you can take when upgrading this part of the gearbox; A ROF based set-up or an FPS based set-up. In reality, to increase FPS, all you really need is steel bushings, and the spring of your choice, but it is advised that you get a better motor with more torque as well. But most people will go all out. For this, you can pick up a set up torque-up gears, torque-up motor, durable polycarbonate piston, metal spring guide with bearings, and the spring of your choice. The Tappet Plate, Anti-reversal Latch, and Pinion Gear are pretty much the same between companies performance wise, they are just parts that need to do a basic job. For an all out ROF based set-up, a high-speed motor and high-speed gears are great to have, as well as a light but durable polycarbonate piston and a relatively lower powered spring. The main difference between high FPS and high ROF in the gearbox is the motor, the gears, and the spring. From personal experience I have had great results from these parts:

Systema Bearing Spring Guide
Systema Duracon Piston Head
G&P White Polycarbonate Piston
PDI 150% Spring (around 350 fps)
Guarder Revolution High-Speed Motor
Prometheus Bearing Spring Guide
Guarder Flat Ratio Gears

There are many great aftermarket parts, but many stock gearboxes have great parts such as the CA gearbox. The yellow piston is remarkable as well as the gears. After owning a CA G36 for a couple years, the piston and gears had no wear. I don’t have the piston anymore, but the gears are still in the gearbox and are working with many upgraded parts. Another thing I would like to cover is the use of Aluminum Pistons and Piston Heads. Personally, I don’t know why someone would use aluminum parts. This is what I think:

-They are heavy, thus reducing ROF
-Polycarbonate parts are durable enough for just about all gearbox set-ups, if you are doing something extraordinary, just get a Supercore Piston
-Aluminum parts are louder, which is sometimes a wanted trait, but usually not.
-They can’t be malformed, but they do break, and when they break, they take the rest of your gearbox with it. (metal shards getting stuck in your spring, gears, and cylinder doesn’t sound to good, right?)

That’s just my two cents, I personally don’t see my self ever using Aluminum Pistons or Piston Heads.


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..::Do-It-Yourself Modifications::..


DYI modifications are great if you need to save money, or get a specific characteristic that a normal part can’t get you. There are mods for all parts in an AEG, some are easy, others take skill. I won’t be going too in depth because this is not a step by step guide (Although I will make some).

..::Gearbox DIY Mods::..


Here’s a list of some modifications and a brief explanation.

-Short stroking a Piston: This is used to obtain a higher ROF. By eliminating teeth on a piston, you reduce the amount of time taken to pull back the spring all the way. Because of this, for every tooth you shave, you will lose a good amount of fps, around 10 or so per tooth. Keep in mind, you will need to shave down the pertaining sector gear tooth to compensate for the loss of piston teeth. If you do not do this, you will have an incorrect AoE, and…..well…let’s just say things that you don’t want to happen, will happen.

-Swiss Cheesing a Piston: This is used also to obtain a higher ROF. It is a simple process in which holes are drilled in the piston to decrease overall weight. This might also decrease piston durability if drilled in a bad place like the backbone or structural center of the piston.

-Sector Chip: I do not know if this can be called “DYI”, but some people do make them. A Sector Chip is a little bit that attaches to the sector gear to increases feeding consistency in high ROF set-ups. Some manufactures make them like Element and Big Out.

-Spring Cutting: The lazy way to lessen the power of your spring. I really do not know why someone would do this, as it seems kind of hit or miss, but I hear it can work right sometimes. I think each coil cut is like a five FPS reduction, or it might be ten. Also, each company’s springs are different, so results may vary a lot.

-Gearbox Polishing: Polishing the gearbox shell might be beneficiary but most likely in a small amount. This will remove all metal shavings common from general use. Good spots to polish are the piston rails and the area around the gears.

-Teflon Taping: I have also heard some people wrapping Teflon tape around the cylinder head and cylinder head shaft to promote a better seal. It works in other parts of guns, but more of that later.

-Gear/Motor Break-in: This will break-in your gears and motor and harden them up to hopefully make them stronger. Do this by first removing the cylinder assembly so all that remains is mechanical parts (also remove the tappet plate though). Then find a 4.8v battery and run your gun with just the motor and the gears running for about a minute straight with 30 second break intervals. Do this for 5 minutes total run time, this should increase the durability of your gears.

-Sorbothane Pads: These are small pads you buy to place between your piston head and cylinder head. These are also a newer modification like X-rings. Upon installation, you can expect less gearbox stress and a quieter gearbox (allegedly of course).

-Molybdenum Grease: After asking my dad for white lithium grease, I found at that we had nothing but his Molybdenum grease. We figured it would be safe for the gearbox, so we used this as a substitute. Basically Molybdenum is used in planes and really fast cars, so it is super durable and will not evaporate. I recently regreased my gearbox normally and found no negative effects from molybdenum grease, so I say if you have it, you can try it, it is safe. I just thought this was worth mentioning.

..::Barrel and Hop-up DIY Modifications::..


-Teflon Taping: Just like taping the cylinder head for better compression, this can be done to the hop-up unit to prevent better seal. For starters, you can wrap a layer around the barrel, and then slip the bucking over that and continue by wrapping the whole bucking. This will make it difficult to fit the hop-up unit on, but this mod will help with compression.

-V-Hop Nub Modifications: Basically, this mod is taking a regular hard nub, and simply cutting away to make a V or H shape into it. This is a lot easier to do with hard nubs instead of soft rubber ones. I have tried this and it worked ok, I did not notice much of a difference in groupings.

-Nub Padding: This can be done to pressure the bucking onto the bb more if desired. I used a small piece of super glue that I formed and simply inserted before the nub, so the nub still had contact to the bucking, but had another layer so it can be pressed down more if desired.

..::Electrical DIY Modifications::..


-Motor Brush Cleaning: You can do this by cutting a pencil eraser into the shape of the motor brush and put it on a toothpick or similar object. Then insert the pencil eraser into the crevice that the brush goes inside. Just give it a few turns and pokes, you will find lots of dark powdery stuff like from cleaning contacts.

-Contact Cleaning: If your Contacts are burnt, you can simply open up the electrical box in the gearbox and clean your contacts by polishing them off with a rotary tool and semi-hard bit, scraping them clean with high grit sand-paper, or even just scraping it off with your finger nail. You are basically removing the carbon build-up/“scarring” which prohibits a charge to flow through.

..::Successful DIY Modifications::..


Personally, I have had positive success with these mods:

Gearbox Polishing
Teflon Taping
Gearbox Break-in (although I used a slightly different method)
Molybdenum Greasing
Nub Padding
Contact Cleaning

*In the near future I will be attempting to Swiss Cheese a piston as well as short stroking with the same piston and gears







..::Conclusion::..


So hopefully this information was helpful to you, or at least gave you a couple ideas about upgrades. I don’t have much to say, except good luck upgrading your AEG into a crazy killing machine! I would like to thank Airsoft Forum, and Airsoft Retreat for previous guides I have read and used a little to compile this information. I would also like to thank Dragon M. and Stan Salad for helping me with this as far as errors, and small details I may have missed earlier.

AD signing out. Edited by admin

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Nice, very informative. A sticky perhaps?

 

Also 2 things :P the cylinder head of my gun the metal part has a small notch in it but I am paranoid. Negative effects?

 

and on sorbo pads. They do work, I've been running an sp140 in my jg gearbox, no stress fractures, shell is still in good condition, and forgive me. But I did switch it to auto and have been firing quick bursts with it. Again no stress fractures.

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Lots of great info here. :a-thumbsup: Some pictures would really set this thread off though :a-famerican:

 

*edit* You may want to bold out some of the headlines and titles as well.

That way if I was a Newbie who wanted to scan through and see info on sorbo pads for instance, I could do so more easily.

Edited by GoLgo 13

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Aww thanks guys *blushes*

 

<DON'T POST EMAIL ADDRESSES>sniper

your cylinder head isn't all metal? Is it the shaft that is metal? It should not be a main concern unless the whole is going straight through, but if anything negative would occur, it wuold be a tiny reduction of FPS.

 

<DON'T POST EMAIL ADDRESSES>golgo

something didn't transfer right, I had the topic heads centered, I will fix it, thanks for the heads up

 

<DON'T POST EMAIL ADDRESSES>aimfor

uhh....probably about 3 hours of straight writing....I woke up early today :D

 

<DON'T POST EMAIL ADDRESSES>boredom

yea...I will probably end up changing some of it, adding acouple of things, like pics and acknowledgements and links.

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Nah its a plastic cylinder head, the metal part that inserts into the nozzle has a small niche in it after I "accidentally" poked it with a screw driver.

 

unless the niche is a complete hole, nothing should happen. It would really make much of a difference anyways

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Can I suggest posting links to other sites or topics that are really useful when upgrading an AEG? Here is a website that I found helpful: www.mechbox.com

 

meh, ya, I will add a small section at the bottom with some links, although I didn't really get anyhelp from mechbox.

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Can I suggest posting links to other sites or topics that are really useful when upgrading an AEG? Here is a website that I found helpful: www.mechbox.com

 

It's not really what my article is about.....there are other guides that give that information.

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I have heard a great deal about difference in bore. It is not the tighter the bore, the better barrel. It is the tighter the bore, the more better groupings and FPS gain. The larger the bore (still tightbore, like 6.05) the better the range. Now this is just a myth, so don’t attack me for it.

 

Ok could you please clarify here? So does a tighter tightbore decrease range but increase the FPS, and give tighter groupings? I am wondering if it is mutually exclusive to achieve tighter groupings, higher FPS, and increased range. Also does anyone know what inner barrel bore the KWA KM4 tac has? I've heard it was a tightbore but don't remember what type or what the bore was. Thanks

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Ok could you please clarify here? So does a tighter tightbore decrease range but increase the FPS, and give tighter groupings? I am wondering if it is mutually exclusive to achieve tighter groupings, higher FPS, and increased range. Also does anyone know what inner barrel bore the KWA KM4 tac has? I've heard it was a tightbore but don't remember what type or what the bore was. Thanks

 

It shouldn't decrease range, and the fps will jump a tiny bit. It will give tight groupings.

 

KWA listed their M4 to have a 394mm barrel.

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Ok could you please clarify here? So does a tighter tightbore decrease range but increase the FPS, and give tighter groupings? I am wondering if it is mutually exclusive to achieve tighter groupings, higher FPS, and increased range. Also does anyone know what inner barrel bore the KWA KM4 tac has? I've heard it was a tightbore but don't remember what type or what the bore was. Thanks

 

 

No, it will still increase range, but there is a myth that like a 6.03 would give more range increase than a 6.01 (same brand though, can't compare a madbull to a PDI). KWA's have a 6.05, but they have pretty poor accuracy and range, if I had a KWA the barrel and hop-up would be the first thing I would replace (well....I do that on every gun actually)

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Just another quick question. Is the type of barrel important or just the length? Cause I was looking at Xfire PDI barrels and the M4A1 barrel is 20mm too short. However they have an AK74MN Short barrel that is exactly 395mm long. Will there be compatability problems with this (or Prommy...cause $117 for a tightbore is ridiculous!!)

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Just another quick question. Is the type of barrel important or just the length? Cause I was looking at Xfire PDI barrels and the M4A1 barrel is 20mm too short. However they have an AK74MN Short barrel that is exactly 395mm long. Will there be compatability problems with this (or Prommy...cause $117 for a tightbore is ridiculous!!)

 

20mm too short is not a big difference. You won't be losing anything. $117 for a nice barrel is worth it.

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Just another quick question. Is the type of barrel important or just the length? Cause I was looking at Xfire PDI barrels and the M4A1 barrel is 20mm too short. However they have an AK74MN Short barrel that is exactly 395mm long. Will there be compatability problems with this (or Prommy...cause $117 for a tightbore is ridiculous!!)

 

wait....I'm a little confused. You are saying that they have an m4 barrel that is too short, and an AK barrel that is exactly the right length? so why don't you just get the right sized one.

 

A barrel being too short is not a problem unless your ok with losing a couple fps, but some guns cannot take longer barrels because they might have a nut at the end of the outer barrel so you can't fit a longer barrel in, or it will just stick out of the flash hider, which will get your barrel dirty.

 

If you want to save some money on the PDI barrels, just get a slightly shorter barrel, you won't see many negative effects, and you will save money. There will not be any compatiblility problems with Prommy or PDI.

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I can't find a TBB in a 520mm length by PDI, EDGI, or Prometheus. I found one by systema but I would rather get a better brand. If one doesn't exist I can deal with 509mm or 510mm.

 

Great info Aqua!!!!! It saved me lots of money on worthless upgrades!!!!!

 

[EDIT] if you buy new metal bushings, do you need new shims?

Edited by G36fanatic...

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this thread has helped me alot, I am currently building an mg36, and have been researching ways to increase my ROF. I've heard about the benefits of ab mosfet's, and have been interested in setting one up for the mg. one question I have, are these systems very big, and how hard would it be to install one into a front wired gun?

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This site has taught me everything I know today!

 

I printed off all of the guides and practically memorized them

 

Amazing and greatly useful information!

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best piston for anything besides a rate of fire low fps mod is... the stock marui white piston!!!! stiff reinforced pistons break when gears don't mesh perfectly, and they rarely do. the stock white marui will deform and mesh with the sector gear creating more surface contact between the two for a better pull and less failures caused by bad meshing of gear and pistons teeth. its weird but true, marui stock piston is going on 2nd year in 460fps AEG no issues and looks almost new. its deformed just enough on the face of the teeth to mesh with sector gear perfectly, and the material has slightly deformed but is still there vs hard piston material shaves away gets in gears etc and generally causes problems.

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Hop-up Chambers are also a good component to consider upgrading. Not all gun models have aftermarket chambers, but some do such as the AUG, M4, G36, AK, and maybe a couple others. The most well known upgrade chamber is most likely the Prometheus Neo Strike Chamber. It is the standard step to greatness in m4 chamber options. Guarder and Systema also rival Prometheus in this realm, especially Guarder which some say it is better than the Prometheus in over-all "bang for your buck". While the M4 has the most chambers available, Prowin makes CNC'ed chambers for the AK and G36 known for its shocking bright blue metallic appearance. Basically, all of these upgrade chambers share the similar quality of being full metal, which is believed to increases consistency in compression. I have experience only with the Prometheus Neo Strike Chamber, and will soon by the Prowin G36 hop-up chamber.

 

I have a question about the Prometheus Neo Strike Chamber: what is the difference between the Prometheus Neo Chamber and the Prometheus Neo Strike Chamber? I.e. http://tinyurl.com/yfy8c92 vs http://tinyurl.com/yhta6ju I'd rather not spend a bunch of extra money for parts I already have or something.

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OK so I have a crosman pulse r76 ( don't make fun). What distance and accuracy or maybe ROf upgrade capability does crosman, or more specifically, the pulse r76 have?

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I understand that this is a bit of an epic necro, but I find it necessary to help others avoid the perils that I have encountered.

 

I have (er..had. Accidentally cut both wires when trying to switch to deans) a Madbull 12.8V LFP (Lithium Iron Phosphate) battery that I put into a high-speed setup. It has a 40C discharge rate (as does the Madbull 9.6V LFP I replaced it with) and exponentially increases the rate of fire of any gun that I put it in to. I frequently leave it out on the table in between games so that players with 8.4V batteries can unlock their gearboxes :P

 

Anyways. My mp5a4 setup runs this battery with a Systema Energy CMB (m100 spring) and Systema Energy motor. It pushes upwards of 45 RPS and has now shredded 2 helical gear sets in a matter of hours for each. I haven't tested the battery for a long duration in any other setup yet, but I suspect that it will fry anything that is not heavily reinforced and equipped with low-resistance wiring. My 2 cents.

Edited by AdmiralChaos

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Adding to that, 11.1V LiPo's should always be used in combination of a MOSFET, or else your trigger contacts will burn out!

Relevant info:

http://www.tacomaairsoft.com/forum/index.php?topic=72.0

 

Also, for those who feel the need to get a metal piston, I would instead suggest a steel-tooth poly-carb piston. It has the pro's of the metal piston, without the con's. (Stronger, but not as heavy + no metal grinding against the GB walls)

Edited by jinmu

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Hi, this is a great guide! Here is some DIY airseal improving mods which have worked for my JG G36K (if they are worth adding to the list):

 

Improving airseal

 

My stock pistonhead is pretty bad, the main problem is that the O-ring fits way too loosely and it wobbles around. Actually it still seems to hold air when it's pushed rapidly in the cylinder, but I didn't like it so I came up with this: put some wool thread under the O-ring. I also enlargened the ventilation ports of the pistonhead. Now if I put my finger on the nozzle and try to push the piston assembly into the cylinder, it instantly stops, that's a good airseal. Do not put too much thread because then the pistonhead fits too snuggly in the cylinder and slows down the movement.

 

Then comes the nozzle, a stock nozzle usually leaks air and so did mine. This can be improved by wrapping teflon tape around the brass nozzle under the main nozzle as said in the list. A thick grease works too (I put toothpaste because I didn't have thick grease :D).

 

After that, the main nozzle still leaks a little bit, but its a way better than stock.

 

 

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I'm new to the upgrading, so I'm trying to uprade a mid level gun of mine in case it goes bad, and to get some experience. I've ordered a new piston, piston head, cylinder head, ball bearing spring guide, and nozzle. I know these are upgrades of the difficult kind compared to barrel and bucking upgrades. However, I can't find any specs on my gun to know what I already have vs. what I want. I was wondering if anyone could help me out. My gun is the cm028u w/side folding stock (apparently the new enhanced model) from airsoft megastore. I know the length of the inner barrel is 455 but don't know the inner diameter. Basically if I already have a tight bore barrel I don't want to buy the same one, hence my problem. Also I'm totally perplexed about what bucking and nub to get. And whether it'll really improve my gun. I really would like some more consistency, range and accuracy (doesn't everyone) but moreover just general durablility and realiability. If you recommend a product please include a link too!

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Your gun comes with a 6.08mm bore. They are fairly good though, so you don't necessarily need to change to a tight-bore. Consistency of the barrel is more important than its bore.

 

To make a more consistent gun, I would suggest checking out the link in my signature. Do as much of it as you can. It will improve consistency and reliability.

 

For hop up, I would suggest the R-hop (again, check my sig). You can use your stock bucking with it.

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http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?...roducts_id=1676

 

I haven't seen the Prometheus motor connectors in stock for a long time though. Your next best option would be the Lonex motor connectors. http://www.clandestineairsoft.com/electric...rink-p-140.html

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Upgrading a JG G36C for all round performance...

 

Hey guys,

 

I’m pretty new to this stuff but I’m a quick learner when it comes to technical things like these, so please don’t write me off the first thing you do when reading this…

 

I’m actually an electronics technician who loves to build computers but also along with some friends here in Sweden developed a love for AEG’s the last year and a half or so. We’re a group of guys in their mid thirties who lately have gotten in touch with our inner youth by going out into the woods once in a while to try to kill each other using plastic BB’s. We all love it, it gets the adrenaline going and as it turnes out, it is a really good work out as well. The first rifle I bought was a JG G36C because it was affordable and I didn’t know if this was going be a lasting thing or not so I didn’t go buy the best thing on the market. Now, a year and a half later we’re still loving it and I’m actually looking into upgrading my JG G36C, which I absolutely love by the way. In fact I’m pretty obsessed with it, the past two weeks the only thing I’ve been doing is going through Youtube and forums like these just to learn about the sport and it has only increased my interest for this sh*t even more.

 

The reason I’m writing this here is that I would like to get some input from players who are more experienced when it comes to customizing AEG’s. Like I said I have been doing some serious research the past couple of weeks and this is what I came up with…

I would like to build an all round rifle with good FPS, RPS and also good accuracy, nothing overkill on any front but just a balanced gun. After reading and watching and reading and watching these are the parts I ended up ordering for my gun and I would just like some input on whether I should change some things around or not. For the moment I have a stock JG V.3 Gearbox.

What I would like to get is about 400FPS and 15-20 RPS with good grouping at about 160 Feet.

I have already ordered all these parts and what I plan on doing is installing a…

 

*Lonex Titan A2 High Torque Motor

*Madbull Ultimate Tight Bore 6.03mm 455mm barrel

*8.25in Mock Silencer (The inner barrel will end flush with the silencer tip)

*Lonex G36 Aluminum Hop Up Unit

*Dream Army H-Spacer

*Lonex 70 Bucking

*Deep Fire Cylinder Type B for a 380-509mm barrels

*Lonex Blue Piston 10 Steel Teeth

*Guarder Stainless Steel Cylinder Head

*Airlabs Sorbo Pad 70D Hardness

*Guarder Enhanced Ventilation Piston Head (Taking the ball bearing off, leaving it only on the Guide)

*Guarder Ball Bearing Metal Spring Guide

*Guarder SP120 Spring

*PicoAB Mosfet with active break

*Deep Fire 16WG Wiring

*JBU 7mm Ball Bearings

*JG Original 18:1 Gear Set (From what I gathered they are pretty good)

*Turnigy Nano-Tech 1800mAh 11.1V 3S 20-40C LiPo

 

I’ve also read all about swiss cheesing and do not think it is something I should have to do for this set up.

 

If any of you more experienced modders have any pointers for me regarding my set up I would really appreciate some of your input, what I should change, what I should avoid and what I should modify to reach my goal.

 

I thank you all in advance…

Edited by yimmykpekk

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Your list is pretty solid. The Lonex A2 motor, with 18:1 gears, and a 11.1v lipo is going to put you around the 24-26rps range. An equivalent 7.4v would put you in the 16-17rps range. A high quality 9.6v (Intellect or Elite brand cells) would put you right around 20rps. You do NOT need to swiss cheese your piston.

 

I understand you already ordered parts, but I am going to have to crap on your parade a little bit.

-JBU 7mm ball bearings: I highly suggest you swap these out for solid bushings. Bearings less than 8mm don't hold up well in the majority of setups.

-PicoAB MOSFET: I would suggest swapping this out for a non Active Breaking version. AB increases wear on the motor.

-Lonex 70d bucking: If you aren't doing any of the current hop up mods, particularly the R-hop, then you are going to want to go with a softer bucking. Softer buckings offer better spin/hop on the bb, and that spin is largely what dictates range.

 

Truthfully, if you clean your barrel, wash oil/grease off the bucking, and use .25g bbs or better, you can hit 160ft accurately with a stock gun.

 

I would also suggest checking out the link in my signature. It contains a list of guides on how to improve the performance of your gun and make it reliable. These are all do it yourself tasks, and cost very little in parts/materials.

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