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Mods To The Kjw M700 To Increase Consistency

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Sorry to start up a 1 year thread but I had a few questions, I currently have the kjw m700p non take down version and lately my m700 with hop up all the way up wasnt shooting past like 75 feet. they would just fly and then drop at around 75 feet.

 

so I took the rifle apart and what seemed to me was that when I adjust the hop up, the little wheel pushes down on this little pin which then pushes a spring down on the hop up bucking, well when I took it apart and pushed the littl epin all the way down as much as I could, I didn't see that the rubber on the bucking moved down when I looked through the barrel? You guys think its because of that little pin and the small spring that my hop up isnt working? It used to work before but then it just stopped.

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Sorry to start up a 1 year thread but I had a few questions, I currently have the kjw m700p non take down version and lately my m700 with hop up all the way up wasnt shooting past like 75 feet. they would just fly and then drop at around 75 feet.

 

so I took the rifle apart and what seemed to me was that when I adjust the hop up, the little wheel pushes down on this little pin which then pushes a spring down on the hop up bucking, well when I took it apart and pushed the littl epin all the way down as much as I could, I didn't see that the rubber on the bucking moved down when I looked through the barrel? You guys think its because of that little pin and the small spring that my hop up isnt working? It used to work before but then it just stopped.

 

The "pin" or "nub" as others call it is shaped like a ball but much wider. Its also pretty flimsy. The effect on the hopup is not very noticeable since its pushing the top and sides at the same time but not as close as an SCS style nub. Either way, replacement of the hopup rubber and the "nub" should be high on your list. The links to instructions on how to custom make your own H-style nub which is far better are listed in this thread.

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The "pin" or "nub" as others call it is shaped like a ball but much wider. Its also pretty flimsy. The effect on the hopup is not very noticeable since its pushing the top and sides at the same time but not as close as an SCS style nub. Either way, replacement of the hopup rubber and the "nub" should be high on your list. The links to instructions on how to custom make your own H-style nub which is far better are listed in this thread.

 

OK thank you, but um whats a hop up rubber? does it go inside a barrel? because I don't have one.

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OK thank you, but um whats a hop up rubber? does it go inside a barrel? because I don't have one.

 

Yes, you should have one. The hop up rubber is a thick rubber sleeve that fits over the hole leading into your barrel. It sits between the pin/nub and inside of the barrel. When a bb is fired the bb will hit the rubber causing it to spin. The rubber increases the friction on the bb causing it to spin. You will want to do a search on this forum to get pictures of how it is installed and where it is located. There are plenty. :a-grin:

 

The rubbers come in both hard and soft material. Harder is better for faster shooting rifles. Soft are for rifles that shoot under 400fps.

 

Hop up rubber brands include:

Firefly

King Arms air seal

Nineball

KM

 

 

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Yes, you should have one. The hop up rubber is a thick rubber sleeve that fits over the hole leading into your barrel. It sits between the pin/nub and inside of the barrel. When a bb is fired the bb will hit the rubber causing it to spin. The rubber increases the friction on the bb causing it to spin. You will want to do a search on this forum to get pictures of how it is installed and where it is located. There are plenty. :a-grin:

 

The rubbers come in both hard and soft material. Harder is better for faster shooting rifles. Soft are for rifles that shoot under 400fps.

 

Hop up rubber brands include:

Firefly

King Arms air seal

Nineball

KM

 

So its like the rubber thing that fits on the barrel right? Like the hop up bucking? because thats the only rubber thing I see.

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Oh ok good. Because I ordered

 

KA hop up bucking

 

G&G striker spring

 

G&G Knok arm and Plunger set

 

Mad Bull Airsoft Black Python 650mm Tight Bore Inner AEG Barrel. (PSG1)

 

You think my m700 will shoot better with those?

 

 

Yes definitely. You should also consider getting an adaptor to use propane instead of green gas. Green gas is great for keeping the seals in your magazine nice and healthy since it contains silicone oil. However, if it gets on the hop up rubber it will cause accuracy problems. Propane solves that (green gas is propane with a small amount of oil in it). I keep a can of green gas handy for the magazines I haven't tapped to use Co2. I'll fill them up and then empty them manually to coat the seals in oil.

 

The madbull barrel does not come with the air seal groove near the end. You might have to cut the lip off of your KA hopup to fit or you can just try to stuff it in the chamber. Its a tight fit but it can be done.

 

The madbull's are NOT polished barrels. This means they have a break-in period where the bb's rub the inside of the barrel to a polished finish. Before this happens you'll see some inconsistent accuracy while the bb's are running over a rough barrel. You'll want to shoot at least 200+ rounds through it. I hooked mine up to an AEG to achieve this (AEG got the barrel back after I upgraded to pdi). While not the best the madbull barrels are still pretty good and you will see a large increase in accuracy over the stock barrel.

 

Knock arm and plunger set are durability upgrades. If you run into problems with the magazine not fitting in the gun or losing gas while the magazine is in it may be due to the arm sticking out too much. While G&G supposedly fixed this problem people still report this problem. Most would just grind the tip of the arm down by a millimeter or so.

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Yes definitely. You should also consider getting an adaptor to use propane instead of green gas. Green gas is great for keeping the seals in your magazine nice and healthy since it contains silicone oil. However, if it gets on the hop up rubber it will cause accuracy problems. Propane solves that (green gas is propane with a small amount of oil in it). I keep a can of green gas handy for the magazines I haven't tapped to use Co2. I'll fill them up and then empty them manually to coat the seals in oil.

 

The madbull barrel does not come with the air seal groove near the end. You might have to cut the lip off of your KA hopup to fit or you can just try to stuff it in the chamber. Its a tight fit but it can be done.

 

The madbull's are NOT polished barrels. This means they have a break-in period where the bb's rub the inside of the barrel to a polished finish. Before this happens you'll see some inconsistent accuracy while the bb's are running over a rough barrel. You'll want to shoot at least 200+ rounds through it. I hooked mine up to an AEG to achieve this (AEG got the barrel back after I upgraded to pdi). While not the best the madbull barrels are still pretty good and you will see a large increase in accuracy over the stock barrel.

 

Knock arm and plunger set are durability upgrades. If you run into problems with the magazine not fitting in the gun or losing gas while the magazine is in it may be due to the arm sticking out too much. While G&G supposedly fixed this problem people still report this problem. Most would just grind the tip of the arm down by a millimeter or so.

 

 

 

Well I do use propane :) I never used green gas yet. Oh another question. Say if my hop up rubber gets covered up in silicone from using green gas, can I just take the gun apart and clean off the rubber?

And what do you mean by the air seal groove on the barrel? like the hole in the barrel?

 

Oh and another question. How do I adjust the hop up on this thing? I read a few places online that the dial on the top of the rail doesnt work for adjusting the hop up and I tried it as well and it doesnt.

 

This is what they say on a few sites "the hop-up is not adjusted by the dial on top of the rail, it is adjusted by a small screw in the connection point between the front part and the rear part of the rifle. If the user would like to adjust/re-adjust the hop-up, one should "takedown" this gun and adjust"

 

Where is this connection point between the front and the rear part of the rifle? I can't understand.

Edited by Vadim

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Well I do use propane :) I never used green gas yet. Oh another question. Say if my hop up rubber gets covered up in silicone from using green gas, can I just take the gun apart and clean off the rubber?

And what do you mean by the air seal groove on the barrel? like the hole in the barrel?

 

Oh and another question. How do I adjust the hop up on this thing? I read a few places online that the dial on the top of the rail doesnt work for adjusting the hop up and I tried it as well and it doesnt.

 

This is what they say on a few sites "the hop-up is not adjusted by the dial on top of the rail, it is adjusted by a small screw in the connection point between the front part and the rear part of the rifle. If the user would like to adjust/re-adjust the hop-up, one should "takedown" this gun and adjust"

 

Where is this connection point between the front and the rear part of the rifle? I can't understand.

 

 

1. Yes, just wash it in warm soapy water to clean it off. Let it sit and dry. Do not try to dry it with a hair dryer or heating element.

 

2. The air seal groove is right above the "hole" in your barrel. If you look at your stock barrel you will see a groove or collar that has been carved into the barrel. Some hop up's have a lip that fits into that groove. AEG barrels do not have this groove.

 

3. The takedown and police versions use two different ways to adjust the hop up. What you're reading is the method for the takedown model which requires you to split the rifle in half and then use a hex wrench to adjust the hop up. Since you have the police version you just use the dial on top of the bolt.

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1. Yes, just wash it in warm soapy water to clean it off. Let it sit and dry. Do not try to dry it with a hair dryer or heating element.

 

2. The air seal groove is right above the "hole" in your barrel. If you look at your stock barrel you will see a groove or collar that has been carved into the barrel. Some hop up's have a lip that fits into that groove. AEG barrels do not have this groove.

 

3. The takedown and police versions use two different ways to adjust the hop up. What you're reading is the method for the takedown model which requires you to split the rifle in half and then use a hex wrench to adjust the hop up. Since you have the police version you just use the dial on top of the bolt.

 

Oh ok ic. well when the new barrel comes in Ill definately know what you are talking about. but the thing about the hop up is that it did work for a lil bit and then no matter how much I turned up or down the hop up it still didn work.....

but you know what? when I started taking my rifle apart, I noticed that the rail on which you mount the scope and on which the hop up dial sits was loose and needed tightening. you think that could have been it?

I think Ill go wash my bucking rubber and let it dry and put the rifle back together and see if that works.

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Oh ok ic. well when the new barrel comes in Ill definately know what you are talking about. but the thing about the hop up is that it did work for a lil bit and then no matter how much I turned up or down the hop up it still didn work.....

but you know what? when I started taking my rifle apart, I noticed that the rail on which you mount the scope and on which the hop up dial sits was loose and needed tightening. you think that could have been it?

I think Ill go wash my bucking rubber and let it dry and put the rifle back together and see if that works.

 

Well I did all that and put the rifle back together with all the stock parts and yea it shoots much better now I guess the hop up wasnt working because my rail was loose. I chronoed the rifle today and it shot in the 600 FPS ranges. lol and one of the shots was 626fps. that was the highest one I have had.

 

Well I was using a brand new mag that came in a few days ago.

 

Well alright man thank you for all your help. I will post the results on here when all my parts come in and after I install them.

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thanks im definatly gunna get one of these soon

 

Yea this are nice :) but one thing that im having problems with is consistency with this rifle.

I mean sometimes it would shoot prefectly on my crosshairs and othertimes it would go way over or might not reach. But im getting the HPA mod for it, all I need left is to get the rtegulator for it and I will be all done :) yay.

 

Yea I know some people don't like to see HPA mods on the field because you can easily adjust the fps up into the 1k area but the reason I am doing this is for Consistency. I want it to shoot around the ame fps everytime I shoot and not like the first shot to be 550 and the second would be 400.

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1. Yes, just wash it in warm soapy water to clean it off. Let it sit and dry. Do not try to dry it with a hair dryer or heating element.

 

2. The air seal groove is right above the "hole" in your barrel. If you look at your stock barrel you will see a groove or collar that has been carved into the barrel. Some hop up's have a lip that fits into that groove. AEG barrels do not have this groove.

 

3. The takedown and police versions use two different ways to adjust the hop up. What you're reading is the method for the takedown model which requires you to split the rifle in half and then use a hex wrench to adjust the hop up. Since you have the police version you just use the dial on top of the bolt.

 

Hey man, well I installed my new barrel and at first it shot kinda wierd but now its shooting really nicely. And that groove thing you were talking about I never cut one out I just put the bucking right on and also used some teflon tape.

My new bucking didnt come yet it was back ordered. I also recieved my plunger arm set thing for the magazine but when I install it and try to gas it up it just leaks from the front hole. So I am not using it right now. And I am also waiting for my striker spring to come in it was back ordered as well.

The other day we went out and played and on the very last game we played I hit this one guy on the other team in the left cheek from aorund 150 feet away lol that was funny he got a really red spot there. But yea Ill post another thing on here when I get all my parts in.

Oh I am also doing the HPA mod for it as well. Just need to wait fofr my regulator to come it. And I am doing this one ONLY for CONSISTENCY. I know lots of people don't like to see people having this because of the power it can make but the only reason is im doing this is for consistency :)

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I've heard that the striker plates on the back of the mags wear at a decent rate (I think after 5k rounds or so). If you'd get the G&G striker spring, wouldn't that just increase wear speed?

 

As well, here's what brainplay mean by the grooves, I'm not sure which groove it is, but you should be able to identify which one your barrel doesn't have.

 

groovej.jpg

 

groove2.jpg

 

BTW, how finicky would an edgi 6.00mm barrel be? I'm pretty sure that Madbull's QC would be pretty good, or good enough to not cause a jam.

Edited by frapiscide

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I've heard that the striker plates on the back of the mags wear at a decent rate (I think after 5k rounds or so). If you'd get the G&G striker spring, wouldn't that just increase wear speed?

 

As well, here's what brainplay mean by the grooves, I'm not sure which groove it is, but you should be able to identify which one your barrel doesn't have.

 

 

BTW, how finicky would an edgi 6.00mm barrel be? I'm pretty sure that Madbull's QC would be pretty good, or good enough to not cause a jam.

 

Plunger arm takes care of the durability issue as it removes the striker plate. With just the spring you are correct, you will notice indentions in the stock plate soon enough.

 

vsrstylebarrelsw4.jpg

 

Notice the groove near the hop up window. The lip of a hop up sleeve fits into there and creates a better air seal.

 

The 6.00 has been known to jam if you run crappy quality bb's through it as size can fluctuate greatly. Sticking to quality bb's like SGM's or Biovals will solve this problem. Madbulls require a break in period which most people forget. Their barrels are exceptionally tight until you've run a few thousand through them. If you use one for a sniper rifle replacement you'll want to break it in first or risk some very odd results.

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Well I did all that and put the rifle back together with all the stock parts and yea it shoots much better now I guess the hop up wasnt working because my rail was loose. I chronoed the rifle today and it shot in the 600 FPS ranges. lol and one of the shots was 626fps. that was the highest one I have had.

 

Well I was using a brand new mag that came in a few days ago.

 

Well alright man thank you for all your help. I will post the results on here when all my parts come in and after I install them.

 

I actually had quite a bit of problems with that rail coming loose; I finally got fed up and used some cyanoacrylate glue (essentially superglue, only thicker) to permanently affix the rail (not the screws, but the whole rail) to the receiver. Haven't had any problems since.

 

Jsut thought I'd throw that out there for anyone else having similar issues.

Edited by vulrath

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thanks for all the help to find good upgrades, but can anyone give me instructions on how to istall the striker spring and the rubber set?

 

For the striker spring, search for the disassembly guide. For the rubber set, do you mean the hop up rubber or the bolt gas route seal? The the hop up rubber should be in the disassembly guide. Alternatively, there are at least two decent video's with step by step instructions on how to disassemble the rifle. Keep those on hand and get to know your rifle. The more you understand how the rifle functions the easier it is to diagnose a problem that might pop up.

 

For the gas route seal you simply wrangle the thing out with some needle nose pliers then push the new one in.

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Like I said in the post above, the KJW doesn't need the KING ARMS kit. They only need the bucking:

http://www.airsoftpost.com/king-arms-seal-...10-p-28401.html

 

I just ordered the plunger set for my magazine. I believe the internals of the tanaka and KJW mags are the same.

 

In Brainplay's wonderful HPA conversion explanation it is stated the hop-up is to be removed to increase consistency. Wouldn't that make the hop-up bucking unnecessary?

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...Where does he state this? I do believe that he makes mention of changing the bucking and barrel (as this is an extremely important part of the upgrade process for these rifles), but I don't think he says that the hop is removed, unless he's removing the hop chamber and barrel to get them out of the way.

 

Whether you misread/misinterpreted or not, you definitely WANT the hop up (and all its pieces) there.

Edited by vulrath

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Yeah I think there was some mis-interpretation there. The hopup nub does not have any sort of grip and is usually smooth and solid. The bucking which sits in between the nub and the bb is rubber and allows for a "grip" on the bb when imparting spin. Without the bucking I believe the nub would fall through into the barrel anyway.

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Somebody had asked about bb weight a while back, and this is what I use...

I have a KJW mk1 carbine with a co2 rig, shooting at about 500 fps with BB King .32g. Very awesome bbs. I also use .27 BBB Biovals. Both are really accurate for shots under 250ft. for longer shots I would go a little heavier. I have seen the new WE heavy bbs on shootercity-airsoft.com really cheap. (.40g-2000 for 11 bucks) I wonder how good they are... They also have .43.

Edited by rdjorge

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Ok, as this is about Kjw m700 upgrades I began searching for more. What I found was the polarstar concave spacer which I have found at Evike and airsoftgi. Does anybody think this could be helpful, I might try it in my m700. Also if anybody has used this part please let me know

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I used it last week on a friends UTG L96. I installed the new JBU 6.01 from airsoft gi, UTG upgrade kit, PDI hop up chamber, DIY mods, systema bucking, and the polarstar concave spacer . It made a big difference when comparing with the regular nub that came with the PDI kit. So, in the UTG it did very well. I assume it would be worth trying on the KJW.

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Ok so I want to upgrade my kjw m700. I already have a madbull 6.03 barrel but now I need some consistency uppgrades. I'm using .25g bbs as they are all I have right now but will be switching to .36g. Whenever I want to order a part the shipping always kills me. The $3 striker spring is like $20 with the shipping. So what upgrades should I get and where can I get them at a good price? I also need to know if adjusting the fps could have affected consistency.

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I'd actually suggest a Nineball, seeing as KA seems to have a little trouble with quality control (some of their buckings have flash material from the molding process, but some of them don't) as of late.

 

Unfortunately, you're going to have to go overseas for the Nineball bucking (unless Airsoft Atlanta has one in stock; better check there first), so make sure you wait until you have something else you need so that you don't get eaten alive in shipping costs. I bought one for my TM SIG from UNCompany not too long ago and love it in there; I'm going to replace the one in my own KJW with a Nineball when I finally buy myself a new hop chamber.

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thanks for letting me know about the nine ball but at this point me and a bunch of friends are going to order a lot of bbs from evike. I can also get the king arms bucking which I have heard is the best. I can get free shipping so do you think it's worth it or would the nine ball still be a better choice. I'm also ordering .4g bbs and a g&g striker spring.

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Right now, as there is a chance that you could get one with excess material, I'd stay away from the King Arms bucking. I have one in my rifle, and I severely dislike it (I believe it to be part of the problem that is causing my rifle to shoot in a clockwise spiral, as a matter of fact), and I have a Nineball in my pistol and love it (it's not quite the same, but I have high hopes for it).

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Well I found that it is possible to remove extra material from a king arms bucking. You can flip it inside out and cut away the extra material. If your king arms bucking just isn't working I would suggest it. I'm getting such a great deal by ordering with my friends I'm just forced to buy the king arms, because they do not have the nine ball and this is what I will do if I get a bad bucking.

 

Actually at one point I had a king arms bucking that worked great. I put in my home made nub that actually worked as well, that is until the nub cut through my bucking. I had made an H nub with the tips too shop. Turning up the hop up while adjusting my rifle just completely ruined the bucking.

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So for my initail upgrades I will have a king arms airseal chamber (hoping it's a good one), a 6.03 madbull barrel, G&G striker spring, and a PolarStar concave spacer. I will use WE .36 or .4g bbs. Will this be an effective sniper with a zeroed in scope and set in hop up.

 

Eventually, I will get more upgrades like the knock arm and plunger and the other mag upgrades. I know theres a few other upgrades I can get after that but I just want to get my gun as consistent as possible.

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So for my initail upgrades I will have a king arms airseal chamber (hoping it's a good one), a 6.03 madbull barrel, G&G striker spring, and a PolarStar concave spacer. I will use WE .36 or .4g bbs. Will this be an effective sniper with a zeroed in scope and set in hop up.

 

Eventually, I will get more upgrades like the knock arm and plunger and the other mag upgrades. I know theres a few other upgrades I can get after that but I just want to get my gun as consistent as possible.

 

Don't forget to pickup the connector spring and rubber set. Those two parts play a big role in consistency.

 

For those interested in the nineball bucking it is available at AEX. Here

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Does anybody know how to install the rubber set. I've been looking into getting one but I have no idea how to get it in. I was told that you just pull out the old one and put in the new one but I don't even know which part of the gun it goes in.

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