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Mods To The Kjw M700 To Increase Consistency

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Hey I just got new WE .36g bbs and already my gun seems amazing. I can hit a man sized target at up to 175- 200ft. I still need to wait like 10 seconds between shots to maintain the same temperature but for now my m700 is pretty good. It would also be cool to get up to 300ft of range at some point. I got the polar star hop up nub but it does not work in the kjw m700. I still have a KA airseal chamber and G&G striker spring coming. If anyone has an old gas rig that they would sell somewhat cheap I might be interested in buying it.

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I've noticed that If you do too much target practice you will start to get disappointed with your guns performance. It is important to play a game every now and then at least with it to put the performance in the context of a smooth bore bb gun. This is just about the lowest level of ballistic stability you can get so don't expect too much.

 

Don't automatically shun your iron sights, I didn't like the front sight on my rifle so I cut it to look more like an AK sight. When I started using my irons for target practice I found it was easier to check my grouping. Along with all this I found that my scope no longer zeros properly and may not be holding its setting. If you're having accuracy issues changing optics may help, not everyone is cut out for the same type of aiming.

 

Another thing I think is missing from the list of DIY is a shim between the plastic hop up and the strange hollow screw that holds the outer barrel to the receiver. I used a copper pipe. I don't know what size the pipe is but when the said screw is de-burred the pipe fits perfectly between these parts, with some teflon of course.

Pic 1

Pic 2

 

I placed some plastic shims between the sides of the hop and the receiver (the bottom of a sax reed case). One on each side did me the trick but as I doubt you guys play sax, you may need several layers.

Pic 3

 

At one point I lost the pin that goes through the receiver and the hop up. I used a section of a nail to replace this. In the process of fitting nail to hole I noticed that the size of the hole in the hop is larger than the size of the hole in the receiver. I match a bit to the nail and widened the hole in the receiver slightly. Now I had a pin (+teflon) that fits better than the original one that would always fall out, now it never does and I even have a spare.

(See Pic 3)

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Hey guys! I have recently purchased a new Police model KJW m700 rifle. Ive handled them in the past before but never thought much of them until after reading this thread. I have a few questions.

 

Firstly, I have upgrades put into it based on what I see here.

 

I have AirsoftGi's 6.03 tightbore in it. I forget the brand, but it is the cheaper 30 dollar one and not the more expensive. It has the notch that the stock bucking fits into nicely.

 

I have the plunge and arm set installed in stock mag, and the rubber set installed as well as the striker spring.

 

I have the KA VSR bucking incoming very soon.

 

My accuracy with both .28's and .43's is not all that consistent, I assume from the temp variations of the gas.

 

 

Firstly, with the groove cut into the barrel, will it help at all to use Teflon on the barrel bucking junction?

 

Also, I am desperately looking for the dimensions of the custom hop up nub, the V (or rather, half and H) style nub. Ive tried to come up with my own dimensions based on the custom spacer thread, but I cant really pinpoint it. Any information on it would help me greatly.

 

Also, I plan on building a CO2 quick change rig that can be housed in the stock. I saw one featured on you tube and have done some research, but have not found the best or most economical way to make a quick change co2 rig (aside from using obvious paintball quick change adapters), that is compact enough to fit in the stock. I am not familure with regulators and such. Any help on making this rifle shoot bas best as it can would be awsome! Please help me out.!

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Hey guys. Well, I just installed the KA hop up bucking and man, does that thing make a difference. Most of my high low hop inconsistencies have faded and I have worn the rubber in so it is shooting right where I want it. I have my sight zeroed in at around 250 feet, and even at a further, 275 feet, I am hitting a human waist sized target consistently 9 out of 10 times. The rifle can most definitely reach out to 300 feet. This, however, is not accurate fire. Moreso, its range reaches that, which far impressed me.

 

Also, if you begin to notice your hop up slowly not working, as in you notice that you have to keep turning your hop up, up, to keep the bb going up, check that your ris rail on top of the receiver is screwed down tightly. I noticed this and became worried the rubber was wearing down pre 100 shots. I took it home and noticed the rail was wobbling to I tightened it down and noticed the bucking was poking through the barrel port so much more. Test fired it, and wah-lah! Gun shot at the ranges I expected once again!

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That is the reason why I put blue (medium) threadlocker on the screws for the scope rail for every rifle I end up having to work on (a couple of my friends like my rifle so much that they had me put one together for them). If I need to, I can take the screw out with a screwdriver, but for the most part I shouldn't have to.

 

Also, you when it comes time for you to replace your bucking, try a Nineball. They're hella awesome. I have one in my pistol, and one in my M700. So far, it's treating me pretty great.

 

I also received the Polarstar gas route connector that I ordered. I've installed it, and so far it fits much better in the magazine than the stock one did (the stock one had serious difficulties going up and down, but this one pushed down with no resistance whatsoever; we'll see how well it does after a game or two). I'll report back on that once I get a chance to mess about with it on a chrono.

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It can technically be removed, but you have to practically tear it off and glue it back on when you're done (I've seen it done effectively once, but I can't remember how the guy did it). It's much less hassle to use a CO2 quick changer in a pouch on the outside of the stock.

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Come winter, you're going to notice a big change in pressures. Quite frankly, I'd have gone with the CO2 rig just for the adjustability of FPS, but it also gives me total peace of mind that the BB is going to go where I put the crosshairs after I've got everything set up properly, guaranteed (unless my CO2 cartridge is running out or something). It also helps tremendously when you have to take follow up shots - before, I had to wait a good 10 seconds between shots, but now I can unload all 29 rounds and have all of them hit at least somewhere on the intended target.

 

Believe me, you'll notice a night-and-day difference between the two.

Edited by vulrath

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Hey guys, Im having a big problem. I went to test fire my kjw again today and all was going well for a while. Just now though, I noticed the bolt wont open. It is stuck somehow and I was only just able to lift the bolt into the high position, but it will not pull back at all to open the ejection port. Ive tried everything. Ive broken down the rifle to just the inner barrel and upper receiver assemble and cant figure it out. I am extremely frustrated as there seems to be no way to back it out. Ive tried using the bolt release lever and nothing. I don't know if there is a crushed bb or something or a peice of the trigger assembly is blocking it for some reason. Any ideas?

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Hey guys, Im having a big problem. I went to test fire my kjw again today and all was going well for a while. Just now though, I noticed the bolt wont open. It is stuck somehow and I was only just able to lift the bolt into the high position, but it will not pull back at all to open the ejection port. Ive tried everything. Ive broken down the rifle to just the inner barrel and upper receiver assemble and cant figure it out. I am extremely frustrated as there seems to be no way to back it out. Ive tried using the bolt release lever and nothing. I don't know if there is a crushed bb or something or a peice of the trigger assembly is blocking it for some reason. Any ideas?

Remove the trigger assembly using the two pins holding it in.your bolt tension screw backed out too far.

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Thank you, that worked. I found out that it wasnt the tension screw, a peice of the cocking arm broke off and got stuck in the gun. I do have the Steel cocking arm as well, but it does not fit the KJW bolt. I assume it was more for the tanaka. Has anyone found out how to modify the steel cocking arm to fit the KJW?

 

 

*NVM* The Steel Cocking arm I see fits just fine in the KJW bolt. I must have installed it wrong the first time. It does work just fine.

Edited by Kai_Wolf

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Thank you, that worked. I found out that it wasnt the tension screw, a peice of the cocking arm broke off and got stuck in the gun. I do have the Steel cocking arm as well, but it does not fit the KJW bolt. I assume it was more for the tanaka. Has anyone found out how to modify the steel cocking arm to fit the KJW?

 

 

*NVM* The Steel Cocking arm I see fits just fine in the KJW bolt. I must have installed it wrong the first time. It does work just fine.

Had the same problems at first too, it happens in some of the kjw guns but not the tanaka's.

 

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This is an awesome thread and it has helped me tremendously. I am probably going to buy kjw m700 with these upgrades(for starters)

 

Airsoft GI PE 6.03mm Extreme Precision Inner Barrel for FSG1 / KJW M700 (640mm) http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=6046

 

King Arms Hop Up Bucking for TM Hi Capa / VSR10

http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=5978

 

 

Wold anyone recomend any thing else?

 

I am also wondering what the basic components are of an hpa rig (Iknow there are alot of threads but a wanted to make sure.)

 

Are they a gas source, a regulator and the attchment to the mag?

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This is an awesome thread and it has helped me tremendously. I am probably going to buy kjw m700 with these upgrades(for starters)

 

Airsoft GI PE 6.03mm Extreme Precision Inner Barrel for FSG1 / KJW M700 (640mm) http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=6046

 

King Arms Hop Up Bucking for TM Hi Capa / VSR10

http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=5978

 

 

Wold anyone recomend any thing else?

 

I am also wondering what the basic components are of an hpa rig (Iknow there are alot of threads but a wanted to make sure.)

 

Are they a gas source, a regulator and the attchment to the mag?

 

Go with a Nineball instead of the King Arms bucking. KA has been having quality issues as of late.

 

Yes, that's the general break down of an air rig. The guide posted should help you out there and the hoses can be substituted for macro line or McMaster quick fits (more expensive). Check Ebay regularly. Lots of deals on regs.

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Go with a Nineball instead of the King Arms bucking. KA has been having quality issues as of late.

 

Yes, that's the general break down of an air rig. The guide posted should help you out there and the hoses can be substituted for macro line or McMaster quick fits (more expensive). Check Ebay regularly. Lots of deals on regs.

 

Thanks alot. Are the Ka's that bad because nine ball bucking is out of stock currently at asgi.( they have all of the other things I am planing to get). I guess I can wait it out if it make a big diference and I don't want to chance the bad quality.

 

thanks again

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I know of a place that may have one - Parafrog Airsoft (www.parafrogairsoft.com). You're going to have to get the phone number and call them because they don't ever update their site, but I made off with one for $19 shipped and got it in around 3 days. They're located in east Tennessee.

Edited by vulrath

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I know of a place that may have one - Parafrog Airsoft (www.parafrogairsoft.com). You're going to have to get the phone number and call them because they don't ever update their site, but I made off with one for $19 shipped and got it in around 3 days. They're located in east Tennessee.

 

I am getting all of my other things(more than the to listed above) at airsoft gi. I might call them and see when they will get it in or I will take my chance with the king arms.

 

thanks

 

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here to revive an old topic, but which mod would you prioritize. HPA or a TBB? Considering the weather is rather cold right now in the east coast I was urging more towards tapping my mag for HPA, but then again a TBB on a sniper rifle is always a smart choice.

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here to revive an old topic, but which mod would you prioritize. HPA or a TBB? Considering the weather is rather cold right now in the east coast I was urging more towards tapping my mag for HPA, but then again a TBB on a sniper rifle is always a smart choice.

 

HPA

 

Hop-Up

 

TBB

 

In that order from top to bottom.

 

Tight bore barrel ($34-$75)-Purpose=Accuracy (this mod is useless if consistency is not addressed first)

 

HPA, or CO2 remote setup (under $120 for a DIY CO2 setup to $350 for a pre-built HPA setup)-Purpose= Consistency %30

Edited by wack2011a

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If you care to, you can check out my videos. A lot of my recent videos have been on the G&G G96 and kjw m700. I also have a few videos on mag tapping and air rig building.

 

http://www.youtube.com/fatsoftair

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Mods to the KJW M700 to increase consistency (in FPS) and accuracy. Note-Consistency effects accuracy

I have included an estimated % of how much each of these mods effects overall accuracy

Free Mods:

Teflon tape hop up –Purpose=Consistency %2

Electrical tape barrel spacers-Purpose=accuracy %3

Tighten and loc-tite striker spring assembly –Purpose=consistency %7

Extend nozzle 1/16th inch by pulling it out of seat by that much –Purpose=consistency %5

Custom hop up spacer-Purpose= accuracy %5

Cheap Mods:

KA hop up bucking($15)-Purpose=Consistency %25

G&G, or KA striker spring($3-$6)-Purpose=Consistency(and upgraded power) %3

G&G rubber set ($13)-Purpose=Consistency %2

G&G Gas route Spring($3)-Purpose= Consistency %3

G&G or KA Plunger set ($15-$34)-Purpose=Consistency (upgraded power?) %2

High Performance Mods:

Tight bore barrel ($34-$75)-Purpose=Accuracy (this mod is useless if consistency is not addressed first) %13

HPA, or CO2 remote setup (under $120 for a DIY CO2 setup to $350 for a pre-built HPA setup)-Purpose= Consistency %30

 

 

There are a few of these mods that I haven't personally tested yet because the parts are on the way (ie KA bucking, I have the firefly. and some of the magazine mods).

However, I can tell you that once properly tuned with this equipment, and if you do your part, you can hit 12" groups at 150ft(because that is what I am currently shooting. hoping the airseal bucking closes the gap down to 6").

 

I will attempt to post an explanation of each mod in more depth in the days to come. There are actually a few different mods that I didn't mention because I haven't verified what they do yet. I have the takedown version, but the majority of these mods are exactly the same regardless of police version or takedown version. If you have a slight wobble in your takedown version, I'll show how to tighten that up too, so there is no play.

 

The majority of this information should apply to tanaka owners as well, with the exception that you will need the KA VSR conversion to accept the VSR barrels and hop up buckings, while the KJW already accepts these barrels and hop ups.

 

are you sure the tbb is useless if consistency is not adressed?

 

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are you sure the tbb is useless if consistency is not adressed?

 

The gun already has range. It needs accuracy and precision. There's a reason why owners are told to replace their hop up bucking and inner barrel first - it's a big step in the right direction. (Remember from science class that precision is the repeatability of the experiment and accuracy is how close you came to the intended results.)

 

While it's not absolutely useless without addressing other consistency issues, there are other factors at work that affect the BB negatively. Until you address those, you're never going to have a truly reliable gun.

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quick question... how do I replace the striker spring I took the bolt assembly apart, but there are multiple springs?

 

There is only one spring in the bolt itself. It's the striker spring.

 

Loosen the grub screw behind the handle, then just take a flathead screwdriver and unscrew it to remove it, then replace it with the new (probably a little stiffer, so it might take a little effort, but it's doable) spring and start threading the screw back in. Make sure to pop half of the plastic spacer in before you tighten down all the way with the bolt, so that you have something to hold to bring it down to put the other half in. This doesn't make much sense right now, but it will when you're doing it.

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There is only one spring in the bolt itself. It's the striker spring.

 

Loosen the grub screw behind the handle, then just take a flathead screwdriver and unscrew it to remove it, then replace it with the new (probably a little stiffer, so it might take a little effort, but it's doable) spring and start threading the screw back in. Make sure to pop half of the plastic spacer in before you tighten down all the way with the bolt, so that you have something to hold to bring it down to put the other half in. This doesn't make much sense right now, but it will when you're doing it.

 

 

ok thanks I thought I was doing something wrong, but I guess not.

 

 

thanks!

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Mods to the KJW M700 to increase consistency (in FPS) and accuracy. Note-Consistency effects accuracy

I have included an estimated % of how much each of these mods effects overall accuracy

Free Mods:

Teflon tape hop up –Purpose=Consistency %2

Electrical tape barrel spacers-Purpose=accuracy %3

Tighten and loc-tite striker spring assembly –Purpose=consistency %7

Extend nozzle 1/16th inch by pulling it out of seat by that much –Purpose=consistency %5

Custom hop up spacer-Purpose= accuracy %5

Cheap Mods:

KA hop up bucking($15)-Purpose=Consistency %25

G&G, or KA striker spring($3-$6)-Purpose=Consistency(and upgraded power) %3

G&G rubber set ($13)-Purpose=Consistency %2

G&G Gas route Spring($3)-Purpose= Consistency %3

G&G or KA Plunger set ($15-$34)-Purpose=Consistency (upgraded power?) %2

High Performance Mods:

Tight bore barrel ($34-$75)-Purpose=Accuracy (this mod is useless if consistency is not addressed first) %13

HPA, or CO2 remote setup (under $120 for a DIY CO2 setup to $350 for a pre-built HPA setup)-Purpose= Consistency %30

 

 

There are a few of these mods that I haven't personally tested yet because the parts are on the way (ie KA bucking, I have the firefly. and some of the magazine mods).

However, I can tell you that once properly tuned with this equipment, and if you do your part, you can hit 12" groups at 150ft(because that is what I am currently shooting. hoping the airseal bucking closes the gap down to 6").

 

I will attempt to post an explanation of each mod in more depth in the days to come. There are actually a few different mods that I didn't mention because I haven't verified what they do yet. I have the takedown version, but the majority of these mods are exactly the same regardless of police version or takedown version. If you have a slight wobble in your takedown version, I'll show how to tighten that up too, so there is no play.

 

The majority of this information should apply to tanaka owners as well, with the exception that you will need the KA VSR conversion to accept the VSR barrels and hop up buckings, while the KJW already accepts these barrels and hop ups.

 

I have an standard KJW M700 and I have no idea what parts I need to change to inclease Consistency, clould you please help to check if this parts list is ok or if I need to add/change/remove any part.

 

Bolt Assembly: http://www.evike.com/products/30671/

GG Upgrade Striker Spring: http://www.evike.com/products/28914/

Hopup Adjustment Screw: http://www.evike.com/products/32025/

CNC Aluminum Hopup Chamber: http://www.evike.com/products/33373/

Rubber Air Seal: http://www.evike.com/products/32781/

King Arms Aluminum Air Nozzle: http://www.evike.com/products/32381/

Nine Ball VSR-10 Hop Up Bucking: https://www.airsoftatlanta.com/products/nine-ball-vsr-10-hop-up-bucking-also-fits-p226-hi-capa-g26-socom

G&G Gas Route Connector Spring: http://www.evike.com/products/36024/

G&G Valve Knocker: http://www.evike.com/products/36025/

Angel Custom G2 SUS304 Stainless Steel Precision 6.01mm 630mm: http://www.evike.com/products/40495/

G&G Upgrade Knock: http://www.evike.com/products/28911/

 

Tks at all

My Best Regards.

 

Helvio Jr.

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