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sniperkid15

HPA vs. spring

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I know HPA is best for gas rifles but is it as consistent as a highly upgraded spring rifle?

 

With a decent regulator not the cheap shop jobs? ....Yes.

 

Take note: You'll always have a line running from your magazine to your air source. Some do not like that.

Edited by Brainplay

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Haha, good old Brainplay. I knew you'd come through and post in here. I also expected something from silent_soul. So with a really good regulator it's just as good as say, an L96 or VSR with vacuum piston?

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More or less. You'll want to make sure your not leaking air out of the three main escape points. The two at the nozzle and hopup rubber are rarely a problem. The seal at the magazine gas route is the biggest worry. Sometimes the stock rubber is just fine but it never hurts to replace it. That and a decent regulator and you'll get very little variance. As I told one other guy, knowing the quarks of your regulator will help tune the rifle faster. I posted some good regs and their quarks somewhere in the Tanaka section. Break in is the biggest issue with alot of regulators these days.

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More or less. You'll want to make sure your not leaking air out of the three main escape points. The two at the nozzle and hopup rubber are rarely a problem. The seal at the magazine gas route is the biggest worry. Sometimes the stock rubber is just fine but it never hurts to replace it. That and a decent regulator and you'll get very little variance. As I told one other guy, knowing the quarks of your regulator will help tune the rifle faster. I posted some good regs and their quarks somewhere in the Tanaka section. Break in is the biggest issue with alot of regulators these days.

So are Tanaka mags any better the KJW at keeping sealed up? I'm assuming they are.

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So are Tanaka mags any better the KJW at keeping sealed up? I'm assuming they are.

 

Thats an iffy. Tanaka mags have a tendency to rattle a bit. Sometimes they need spacers to lock them in tight. Probably not the best thing for forming a seal but they seem to work just fine either way. Either way you still want that gas route spring.

 

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when I played paintball I had a setup with a hpa tank that was +/-1 or 0 no matter what the temp or weather, amazing consistency, the right HPA rig will always be more consistent, just choose whether or not you want to spend 400-500 dollars for a rig that is slightly more consistent(however for airsoft its a bit bigger of an impact)

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when I played paintball I had a setup with a hpa tank that was +/-1 or 0 no matter what the temp or weather, amazing consistency, the right HPA rig will always be more consistent, just choose whether or not you want to spend 400-500 dollars for a rig that is slightly more consistent(however for airsoft its a bit bigger of an impact)

Holy :censored2:!!! $500 for just the rig? Or is that for the whole thing?

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that was just my air rig but that was about the most money I could spend on a air rig.

 

$500? You got one of those 4500psi carbon fiber wrapped tanked and drop forward did you? :a-wink: I remember those days starting out with the Really Cool stainless steel hulking huge things that were replaced by regular fiber wrapped and later carbon fiber wrapped tanks strapped to my Bob Long Autococker (and later my Lvl 7 Automag because tuning an autococker was a pain). Price on those was huge but well worth it in the paintball world since back in the day refs would spot check your velocity and penalize you if you were over the 300fps mark.

 

However, that kind of volume is waaaaaay beyond what we need today. For classic guns that will be putting thousands of rounds downrange you'll still want something like that. For snipers, we can get away with much smaller and cheaper metal tanks since our round counts are much less and require much less volume. Both Guerrilla Air and Ninja Paintball put out 13ci 3000psi tanks for roughly $60 that accomodate our needs. Ironically, top of the line regulators can cost double that amount. The reg, tank, remote, and extra fittings will put you at the $200 mark or less.

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$500? You got one of those 4500psi carbon fiber wrapped tanked and drop forward did you? :a-wink: I remember those days starting out with the Really Cool stainless steel hulking huge things that were replaced by regular fiber wrapped and later carbon fiber wrapped tanks strapped to my Bob Long Autococker (and later my Lvl 7 Automag because tuning an autococker was a pain). Price on those was huge but well worth it in the paintball world since back in the day refs would spot check your velocity and penalize you if you were over the 300fps mark.

 

However, that kind of volume is waaaaaay beyond what we need today. For classic guns that will be putting thousands of rounds downrange you'll still want something like that. For snipers, we can get away with much smaller and cheaper metal tanks since our round counts are much less and require much less volume. Both Guerrilla Air and Ninja Paintball put out 13ci 3000psi tanks for roughly $60 that accomodate our needs. Ironically, top of the line regulators can cost double that amount. The reg, tank, remote, and extra fittings will put you at the $200 mark or less.

 

ya one of those HUGE carbon fiber tanks, a drop forward, on off adaptor, macro line to palmers reg, and one of those unneedly expensive tank covers, and ya one of those setups would only be needed for like a week long 24/7 game.

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So what's one of the best regulators out there? And do I want a coiled with or w/out a slide check?

 

My knowledge of the best of the best is probably outdated as the 2-Litre was reigning supreme at the time. But at $120 for just the regulator you were already defeating the purpose of a moderately priced rig since thats almost the same cost as the Palmers full rig. I've got a list posted around here somewhere giving a fairly detailed list of affordable regulators and function excellently along with any quarks that go with them (ie. break in).

 

Slide check or not is up to your gaming style. No slide check and you might as well bolt the line straight to the mag permanently (or semi-perm) and reload the same mag over and over. Unfortunately, reloading on the field is a major pain in the rear end and increases the chance of getting debris in your barrel or debris on your bb's.

 

Slide checks are really for those that have multiple mags and would like to change them out during a game. Not uncommon for those that opted to buy a few cheap 11rd mags. Slide checks can be bulky and heavy. The heaviness can cause the nipple to be unseated slightly and leak depending on what angle you have it setup. If you're running a large tank you really want one though since trying to reach around and turning off a tank (assuming you have an on/off knob) can be a pain in the rear.

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I would just put an on/off asa adapator, and run macro line. then dtach the macro line when needing to reload or multiple marcoline setup mags(just the fitting on th emag)

 

I never had a hard time in the field but I would reload after every kill and I used 1-3 shots per person and never detached my mag just angled it thanks to the flexibility of the macro line.

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So am I going to have to lube my mag seals?

 

Of course! Since you are no longer using lubed Green Gas you'll need to apply it yourself. You seals will be under a great deal more pressure than a spring rifle's seals. You also have more of them than a spring rifle. If you practice proper maintenance then you'll get to know your magazines intimately.

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Of course! Since you are no longer using lubed Green Gas you'll need to apply it yourself. You seals will be under a great deal more pressure than a spring rifle's seals. You also have more of them than a spring rifle. If you practice proper maintenance then you'll get to know your magazines intimately.

Okay that's what I thought. I've only taken my mag apart a couple times so is there more that just the seal in the back of the mag? And can I just use a spray on silicone?

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Okay that's what I thought. I've only taken my mag apart a couple times so is there more that just the seal in the back of the mag? And can I just use a spray on silicone?

 

A dab at the front of the mag where the valve seal is located. A dab seal where the rocker arm connector pokes out of the mag and connects to the striker plate. And as you mentioned the large seal at the back that keeps it all from leaking out. Yes, silicone oil only. If you spray a bunch then be sure to wipe away the excess. Gas the mag up and manually release some of the gas so that any excess accumulated around the seals will blow out into the air instead of blowing out into your bolt and/or covering your hop up sleeve. By doing it manually you are fully coating the seals and you really won't have to repeat this process but once every three months or so unless you use the rifle heavily. I'm giving a ballpark number and nothing is final. Use your best judgement.

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This doesn't have anything to do with HPA, but is there any outer barrels that will work with the KJW M700 non-takedown that are strait? I really hate the dramatic little taper it has right off of the receiver. Also, what psi regulator will I want. All I can find is a 450 psi regulator.

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