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foppo

Tanaka M40a1 Tuning

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Well because my Tanaka M40a1 is becoming very custom and because I still have a few unanswered questions about it I figuered it is the best to start a new topic on that!

 

 

Firstly I'll list up my modifcations on my rifle:

 

1. Custom HopUp Chamber the allows me to fit AEG barrels.

This chamber is made out of aluminium by a friend who -IMO- is very good at his job. He made the chamber for me so it would exactly fit into the parts surrounding it. There is absolutly no wobble, moving or play at all. It is made out of one block so it seals up the system perfectly!

 

Allowing me to fit any AEG barrel I come to my second tuning:

 

2. DBC 6,01mm barrel. Right now I can't remember the lenght of the barrel. I'll search that up later!

 

3. G&G HopUp rubber. (very hard)

 

4. G&G StrikerSpring. This one I will replace by a much harder spring though! Because my future plans (CO2 System) will need an even stronger StrikerSpring.

 

5. G&G Power Pack. I haven't built this one in yet and I'm not 100% sure where all the parts go. Ok the StrikerSpring is built in but the other parts (for the mag I suppose) haven't been built in yet... =>some help and advice here?!?

 

6. Custom Steel Impact Plates. These are made by an other friend. He sent them to me the other day. They will arrive some time this week.

 

7. CO2 System. Well this is the main reason why I opened my own topic because I felt I was overfilling an other topic with my questions about this CO2 tuning. At the moment I'm waiting formy 2-Liter AKA regulator to arrive. All the other parts I have ready and set up! I'll let you guys know more when it's ready to go and set up! For anyother info on my CO2 System check the topic called: "A Listof cheap, affordable regulators" by Brainplay! I filled hat topic with my first fiew questions about a CO2 System.

 

 

Ok guys, let me know what you think about my setup and tell me what I should/could change/add to make my tanaka baby even more powerfull and consistant!

 

A first question:

 

my barrel is to long. It won't fit inside the outer barrel. So I will have to get some kind of extention for the outer barrel. I.E. a silencer adapter + silencer. Now I do have exactly this on my KJW m700p and I tried to fit it into the outer barrel of the tanaka...but it only just won't fit... What can I do? Any alternative?

 

Second question: what does a free floating barrel mean? And would this be a good thing to doto me tanaka??

 

Thanks in advance for any helpful answer!

 

 

 

Greetings from Belgium

 

Foppo

Edited by foppo

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Looks good!

 

Don't advise you to get a stiffer spring though... That will only make your gun get worn out a lot quicker, and we wouldn't want that. You really don't need a stiffer one. I have cut mine a bit shorter and can still shoot over 800 fps when the regulator is turned as high as my striker spring can handle. So no need to get a new one, it will only make the bolt action harder to manipulate.

 

The silencer adapter, is it too big or something? will need more info to help you out there.

 

As for the free float barrel. That is when the outer barrel is not in contact with the stock and is only holding on to the receiver. Stock tanaka m700 series rifles is impossible to get free floated because of it's design. I have the G&G Heavy barrel installed and its great ( one solid block of steel, free float. ). I suggest you get one. They weigh 800g or so :P Maybe a bit on the heavy side for your taste, I don't know?

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Looks good!

 

Don't advise you to get a stiffer spring though... That will only make your gun get worn out a lot quicker, and we wouldn't want that. You really don't need a stiffer one. I have cut mine a bit shorter and can still shoot over 800 fps when the regulator is turned as high as my striker spring can handle. So no need to get a new one, it will only make the bolt action harder to manipulate.

 

The silencer adapter, is it too big or something? will need more info to help you out there.

 

As for the free float barrel. That is when the outer barrel is not in contact with the stock and is only holding on to the receiver. Stock tanaka m700 series rifles is impossible to get free floated because of it's design. I have the G&G Heavy barrel installed and its great ( one solid block of steel, free float. ). I suggest you get one. They weigh 800g or so :P Maybe a bit on the heavy side for your taste, I don't know?

 

Well doesn't seem like I need a stronger StrikerSpring then... Well that's always a little part I can change if needed.

Well the silencer adapter is a little to big. I mean it doesn't fit into the outer barrel...

What PSI do you need to get your 800fps with the G&G Striker Spring?

 

Can you tell me more about the advantages of the G&G Heavy barrel?

I read that it has a 6,04mm barrel inside... Well I have a DBC 6,01mm... wouldn't that be the wrong thing to do then??

 

And anyone can help me on the G&G Power Pack??

Edited by foppo

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Well doesn't seem like I need a stronger StrikerSpring then... Well that's always a little part I can change if needed.

Well the silencer adapter is a little to big. I mean it doesn't fit into the outer barrel...

What PSI do you need to get your 800fps with the G&G Striker Spring?

 

Can you tell me more about the advantages of the G&G Heavy barrel?

I read that it has a 6,04mm barrel inside... Well I have a DBC 6,01mm... wouldn't that be the wrong thing to do then??

 

And anyone can help me on the G&G Power Pack??

 

I am not sure about the psi at 800fps as I'm not using it at more than 700fps which is about 150psi maby a bit more... 800 is close to 200psi I think:D

 

If the adapter is a bit too big, you could allways find some sandpaper and file it down to fit inside:D

 

The advantages is that the G&G barrel is free float (better accuracy, not much in airsoft though), It feels ALOT more realistic (doesn't feel realistic without it), and its a tightbore outer barrel which makes the inner barrel extremely steady (NO NEED FOR ANY BARREL SPACERS!!!) The 6,04 inner barrel is of course interchangeable. You also get an aluminum hop up chamber that you have to use. I have had a DBC 6.01mm in it (649mm long) and now I have the PDI 6.01 for the VSR. Going to order a EdGi 6.00 barrel for it:D

 

Hope that clarified some of your questions.

 

-LeStath

Edited by LeStath

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Well that does help me! But sadly I must say I can't compare this kind of rifle with a real one... Because I havnt had the chance to hold be of these in my hands yet! (might change in near future... Good chances that I become the "sniper" in my section in the Belgian army soon. Wich means AW338;-) but that's a different story...)

 

till then I'll do with simple barrel spacers I think...

 

They only help I need now is HOW to build in the G&G Power Pack...

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A first question:

 

my barrel is to long. It won't fit inside the outer barrel. So I will have to get some kind of extention for the outer barrel. I.E. a silencer adapter + silencer. Now I do have exactly this on my KJW m700p and I tried to fit it into the outer barrel of the tanaka...but it only just won't fit... What can I do? Any alternative?

 

How much longer is the barrel? If you remove the end cap, does the barrel protrude past the outer barrel? If the answer is "No" then you only need to drill out the endcap. This is a typical procedure for barrels that are 650mm. If you bought your barrel from online and it wasn't custom made, this is more than likely your problem. However, if the inner barrel does protrude outside of the outer barrel then you will have to get a silencer adapter or let it protrude and build a mock silencer out of PVC and attach it to your outer barrel thus covering up and protecting the part of your inner barrel that's poking out.

 

 

Second question: what does a free floating barrel mean? And would this be a good thing to doto me tanaka??

 

In the airsoft world it means: not using barrel spacers. It was either Bnoji or Tux that did a test with a gas rifle and found no real advantage or disadvantage to having barrels spacers. You'll notice that spring rifles often have 4-6 spacers in them. The reason is that spring rifles use a violent piston spring that sends vibrations all along the rifle including the barrel while our gas rifles do not create large vibrations. I prefer to use one spacer in my rifle but that's personal preference. It is not necessary to do.

 

However, do not confuse your endcap with a spacer. You barrel should fit into the endcap nice and tight. If you drill out your endcap be sure to use a drill bit that is very close to the same diameter as your barrel. If the barrel rattles inside the endcap then simply wrap some tape around the part of the barrel that is inside the endcap until it does not move anymore.

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The barrel looks out about 1cm out of the outer barrel.

 

I don't have it here right now to measure it exactly... Here the shop description where I bought it from: "DBC HP Barrel 6,01mm Tanaka M700, AICS M40" length I can't find out right now...

I think it doesn't fit because of the custom HopUp chamber. But I think ill just cut it down so it will fit...

About free floating barrel I'll stay with a spacer in the barrel and be happy for the time being...

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I used the following guide to install the g&g power pack in my AICS:

 

http://www.mnairsoft.org/howtos/Instructions_for_G&G.htm

 

It gets rid of the impact plate though, so you're going to have to choose between using your custom plate and the power pack.

The power pack uses a reinforced plunger, they basically made the rod connecting the impact plate and the L shaped part longer, eliminating the need for a seperate impact plate.

 

Remember to clear out the gas before opening up your magazine.

 

Good luck :)

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I used the following guide to install the g&g power pack in my AICS:

 

http://www.mnairsoft.org/howtos/Instructions_for_G&G.htm

 

It gets rid of the impact plate though, so you're going to have to choose between using your custom plate and the power pack.

The power pack uses a reinforced plunger, they basically made the rod connecting the impact plate and the L shaped part longer, eliminating the need for a seperate impact plate.

 

Remember to clear out the gas before opening up your magazine.

 

Good luck :)

 

Thanks allot! That really helped me!

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OK. Lets continue on this Topic, as it is "mine" and will add some stuff to the topic...

 

 

Ok here we go:

 

I finally finished my CO2 System and installed it onto the Mag and started testing it. (At the moment my Tanaka is a little dead... It's basically just worn out. New one is ordered and should arrive some time this week - so because of this I tested the CO2 System on my KJW M700P with stock HopUp, 6,03mm Barrel, Striker Spring)

 

The mag I used has the G&G Plunger built in. (stock Knock arm,because I had the valve opening even when in not-compressed-mode with the G&G Knock Arm)

 

OK to keep it short I'll just post some FPS measurements at 100psi. MadBull .40g BBs, at about 20°C temperature and NO HopUp.

 

1. 487,2 fps

2. 487,2 fps

3. 498,2 fps

4. 491,3 fps

5. 486,6 fps

6. 492,0 fps

7. 483,4 fps

8. 491,0 fps

9. 488,1 fps

10. 491,7 fps

11. 493,0 fps

12. 488,8 fps

13. 495,6 fps

14. 483,7 fps

15. 495,9 fps

16. 493,9 fps

17. 492,3 fps

18. 493,3 fps

19. 498,2 fps

20. 493,6 fps

21. 493,0 fps

22. 493,9 fps

23. 497,9 fps

24. 496,5 fps

25. 491,0 fps

26. 492,3 fps

27. 492,3 fps

28. 496,5 fps

29. 497,5 fps

30. 503,5 fps

31. 508,7 fps

32. 507,0 fps

33. 486,9 fps

34. 500,2 fps

35. 509,7 fps

36. 479,4 fps

37. 437,2 fps

38. 402,0 fps

39. 352,0 fps

40. 329,4 fps

 

Ø (1. - 35.): 493,6 fps (the last ones I left out, because here the CO2 cartridge was going empty)

max: 509,7 fps

min: 483,4 fps

 

Now I'm not really happy about that, because I have seen other people doing better...

The reason why my system performs like this could be following:

 

- It's the KJW... not my Tanaka with all it's tuning. Although the KJW is perfectly all right with normal Airsoft Gas!

- I noticed 2 brighter BBs in my MadBull BBs that I used. These where leaving the barrel at about 560fps... which means the are not as heavy as the should be. So concluding I could say that the other BBs aren't all .40g either... (any experience with these BBs out there?)

 

 

It can't be the CO2 System leaking... because it doesn't...

 

 

Now my plans are to test other BBs. I ordered .40 King Arms BBs (anyone any experience with these BBs?) and will test these... I hope that I the solution to my Problem... That would be the easiest and cheapest way!

 

 

Now I also have news plans of installing the CO2 System into the Tanaka stock. I was hoping to going to install it, so that I could just screw the CO2 capsule in form somewhere "underneath" and make a hole on the side, or top for the pressure gauge to be visible. Also I'd make a small hole so I can adjust the pressure without having to take the rubber endpiece of the rifles stock. But more plans on this will come soon. All this will still take some planning and drawing too...

Edited by foppo

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Something I pulled off of the PBNation review site about the 2-Liter (which I'm assuming is what you're using for your reg).

 

This thing is crazy, it needs to be broken in, but after a couple thousand shots its incredible, + or minus 1 on the crono.

I can't say enough good things about it! It's by far THE fastest regulator on the market today, truly a dream to use.

 

This is bar non the best regulator I have ever used the price is set perfect for a perfect reg. The only reason I say that its way to sensative is, because it's too sensative, it takes a long time to break in

 

Actually the 2-litter has a long break in period. Up to 5 cases to be specific.

It took about that in mine for it to be +/- 1 over the chrono.

(5 cases= 5000 shots).

 

 

This might be your problem. Dry firing it out of the cheapest of the cheap or the most expensive paintball marker should fix that. These new high flow regulators use a washer spring stack instead of a coiled spring stack. This means more need for break in but extremely durable and very consistent results once the metal has "settled".

Edited by Brainplay

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Something I pulled off of the PBNation review site about the 2-Liter (which I'm assuming is what you're using for your reg).

 

This thing is crazy, it needs to be broken in, but after a couple thousand shots its incredible, + or minus 1 on the crono.

I can't say enough good things about it! It's by far THE fastest regulator on the market today, truly a dream to use.

 

This is bar non the best regulator I have ever used the price is set perfect for a perfect reg. The only reason I say that its way to sensative is, because it's too sensative, it takes a long time to break in

 

Actually the 2-litter has a long break in period. Up to 5 cases to be specific.

It took about that in mine for it to be +/- 1 over the chrono.

(5 cases= 5000 shots).

 

 

This might be your problem. Dry firing it out of the cheapest of the cheap or the most expensive paintball marker should fix that. These new high flow regulators use a washer spring stack instead of a coiled spring stack. This means more need for break in but extremely durable and very consistent results once the metal has "settled".

 

 

Well that is nice to know...

I'll run down to my PaintBall Shop this weekend and tell them to shoot a few thousand shots trough it then :a-laugh:

 

 

Just a stupid little question: does the Tanaka M700 AICS have the same "upper" part then the M40A1 and the M700? I mean is the Bolt, HopUp, Barrel and so on the same?

 

Because I can only get an M700 AICS at the moment... And I have some quiet custom parts in my M40A1 that I would then like to put into the AICS...

My main concern ist this the custom HopUp Chamber. It was made for the M40A1 which means it fits perfectly into the piece holding the chamber... Now if I could use the "holding" piece in the AICS everything would be ok...

 

And I can imagine that it would be easier to build in the co2 system into the AICS because you can take the stock apart. And I would think there is more space in the AICS stock or not?

Edited by foppo

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Just a stupid little question: does the Tanaka M700 AICS have the same "upper" part then the M40A1 and the M700? I mean is the Bolt, HopUp, Barrel and so on the same?

 

Because I can only get an M700 AICS at the moment... And I have some quiet custom parts in my M40A1 that I would then like to put into the AICS...

My main concern ist this the custom HopUp Chamber. It was made for the M40A1 which means it fits perfectly into the piece holding the chamber... Now if I could use the "holding" piece in the AICS everything would be ok...

 

And I can imagine that it would be easier to build in the co2 system into the AICS because you can take the stock apart. And I would think there is more space in the AICS stock or not?

 

The main differences are of course the stock itself. The upper is still a regular Tanaka. You're really paying for the nice fancy stock. The AICS has a metal skeleton running throughout the body along with reinforcement "ribs" molded in the plastic. You might have to remove some of that reinforcement to fit anything in there if it will fit at all.

 

The hopup chamber might or might not fit. I've seen one kind that had a different attachment system than the stock version which uses screws and a kind of castle nut to sandwich into place. You might want to check around and do search website searches for that info since I can't give you a definite answer. I just don't have that much experience with the M40a1 variant. Sorry.

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The main differences are of course the stock itself. The upper is still a regular Tanaka. You're really paying for the nice fancy stock. The AICS has a metal skeleton running throughout the body along with reinforcement "ribs" molded in the plastic. You might have to remove some of that reinforcement to fit anything in there if it will fit at all.

 

The hopup chamber might or might not fit. I've seen one kind that had a different attachment system than the stock version which uses screws and a kind of castle nut to sandwich into place. You might want to check around and do search website searches for that info since I can't give you a definite answer. I just don't have that much experience with the M40a1 variant. Sorry.

 

it is 100% the same... everything is the same as the m40/ m700 apart from barrel length and stock. and ofc the long magazine.

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