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Stock MK96 For Dummies

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Since I have been really enjoying the UTG MK96 rifle out of the box since the day my son begged me to buy it for him, I thought I would do some tinkering to see if it can get any better than it already is. I have done hours upon hours of searching and have been given alot of help over the net and here on ASF and this is a big thank you to all who has lent their hand. This was a project to see how far one could actually go with a stock gun with some DIY upgrades. I have so many headaches with BAR's and VSR's in the past and still to this day have them even with a fully up'ed VSR. This leaves me with a bad taste in my mouth how a stock UTG MK96 can give better results than a $800 VSR-10. I am still sinking money into my VSR and still it is lacking consistant performance... So with this bitter taste and against almost everyone telling me that something is going to go wrong if I do too much to the MK96 stock internals something will break, I pushed forward in stubborness just to see for myself as by the looks and feel of the internals, they seem to be a much better quality than a BAR.

 

I have reached my goal and completed this DIY journey with above expectation results. I am achieving 492-506 FPS w/ .30's and hitting torso's <AT> 230' Consistantly with no wind. Anything past that is iffy. As of today and after DIY Mods I have put 1500+ Rounds through the 96. I would tell you that there is no sign of wear to the Sears, Spring Guide, Spring, Piston, Cylinder Head, Bucking, but I will let the pics speak for themselves. I will tell you now that one of the contributing factors of no wear thus far is the Sleek (DOW 33 Silicone Grease) I am using. Without a doubt the stuff is short of phenomenol. Below is a detailed list of the MK96 DIY project, the mods and details of what and how I did it. If I leave anything out just shout at me ;)

 

Stock modifications:

 

We all know the 96 stock is a love/ hate kind of relationship to the shooter. It feels nice to pick the big boy up, to grip it, and the heft seems like a real rifle, but when you are trying to low crawl 100' to a position it really is a pain in the keester. Also the stock has a very hollow body which resonates sound and creates massive vibration that carries through the whole rifle when fired. Below are some pics/ details on how to quickly and effectivley take some weight off and add some dampening mods to help with the resonation and vibration.

 

stock_4.jpg

We will start with the butt. After you disassemble the butt plate you will notice that there is a very heavy weight that is hot glued in this space. I used a razor blade and removed this weight.

 

stock_3.jpg

I added High Densisty Furniture Cushion Foam to all open spaces.

 

stock_9.jpg

I did the same thing with the cheek rest.

 

stock_1.jpg

I moved forward to the Stock/ Grip Area and also filled with the furniture cushion foam. This foam is excellent as it has superior Expansion and Compression properties than any other foam I know. As you can see thats a pretty big block of foam. 7 of these can fit! They slip past the trigger, down the grip and into the butt of the stock with a little help from a flathead screw driver. From there they just keep packing until full up to the trigger guard.

 

stock_2.jpg

Keep packing until up to the trigger guard.

 

stock_5.jpg

There is a large void in about the middle of the stock (Underneath the bolt). I used a large block of foam to fill it with. There is a small space on the botton that you can insert the foam into with again some help from a Flat Head.

 

stock_8.jpg

At the front of the stock (Past the magazine compartment) there is another large void. Again a large block of High Densisty Furniture foam will fill this whole area.

 

stock_10.jpg

Cut and fitted the same foam to the barrel and receiver bedding area.

 

stock_11.jpg

Cut and fitted foam to the receiver.

 

Results:

 

By adding the foam this is without a doubt a more rigid and solid handling rifle. Vibrations and sound resonations were cut down tremendously. The little weight I did take off the back did make some difference, but it is still some what heavy however the difference can be felt none the less.

 

Bolt/ Cylinder/ Piston Modifications

 

I have been told on numerous occasions that by adding more force to the stock internals will eventually damage them in short time. In some cases and in some rifles I would have to agree and have witnessed this first hand. However with that being said the stock parts to the UTG MK96 are nothing for anyone to turn their nose up to. I fell into the upgrading trap with my VSR-10 and now $800.00 later I still have a VSR-10 that shoots like junk with a Laylax trigger that is broke (Yes it's true) and a PDI 6.01 Barrel that some has said maybe twisted from the factory? Either way the point is nothing lasts forever and eventually stock parts and upgraded parts will wear all the same, but what is the life span of the stock parts of the UTG MK96? I have personally shot 1500+ Rounds through this MK96 since it's been modified. I have shot well over 1000 rounds before so it is safe to say I have close to 3000 rounds of wear through this 96'er in a 2 month time. Here is my hypothisis on why these stock parts will last quite awhile. The first reason being is the parts from the factory are pretty darn good. They are not the best, but are darn good. The second reason is the piston and spring guide are light weight, made of a super hard compression polymer (The same stuff that Glock, Springfield Arms, H&K among others uses on their firearm handles and trigger frames) and results is less wear to the sears (less metal to metal friction and stress). I am sure if I put a aftermarket metal piston in place of the stock bolt than I would have much more wear on the stock sears. The third reason, and I would call the very most important, I use a grease made of DOW 33 Silicone Grease. The brand I use is called Sleek and it is made by Smart Parts for their Paintball guns. It is a very slick grease that does not bond or goop up, but stays it's consistancy whether in freezing temps or smoldering heat. It always, always, always gives me consistant performance and insures my internals are going to be protected by wear at it's very best. Below are the DIY Mods I have done for the stock Cylinder internals.

 

cylinder_3.jpg

Teflon Taped the threads on the cylinder head. Seals for compression.

 

cylinder_2.jpg

From the factory the stock piston has 2 grooves for some reason notched on the o-ring trench lips. I filled these areas in with Plastic Epoxy to insure a complete air-seal and after the epoxy cures I form the area with a Small filing tool back to the round shape of the cylinder. I also replaced the stock O-Ring and installed a Danco #13 O-Ring. The #13 O-Ring is a tight fit, but with some grease and screwing motion (Get it past the threads) it is a perfect fit! This again insures internal compression.

 

cylinder_1.jpg

This is a common overlooked DIY Mod that helps insure Air-Seal and compression. I teflon tape the piston head screw and re-install it very tightly, otherwise air will leak back out and down the piston.

 

Wanting more FPS and Distance are ya'? Well I cannot say you will get to 600FPS with a stock MK96, but I can tell you I think you can get around 530-550 with this mod with some tinkering. Again it is my hypothisis that you can have too much power for a Hop-Up unit to do it's job effectivley. For example pitching machines. In my experiance when hitting off a pitching machine the balls fall right in the strike zone everytime when the speed is about half way and set at a optimal setting. As you turn up the speed the ball has a terrible tendency to deviat from left, right, up, down which has some consistancy issues (I.E. Balls/ Strikes). It is labeled right on the pitching machine itself stateing this. With every rifle comes a Hop-Up of it's own. No 2 are the same and no 2 upgraded rifles are exactley the same. There is one common question that should be addressed when first getting a new Airsoft Rifle. What speed can this Hop-Up still work consistantly and effectivley at? If you ask me for a Airsoft rifle to truely be consistantly effective at higher speeds I would say a longer Hop-Up Nub and longer hop-up cut windows on barrels should be constructed. This allows the BB's at high velocitys to have a longer contact time with the nubbing.

 

cylinder_6.jpg

This Mod allowes me to achieve 490-505 FPS Consistantly with .30g KSC Perfects. I went to ACE Hardware and found a Polymer Tube inside a DANCO SP-3 Faucet Repair kit. The Dimensions are perfect which allows the spring to stop on the spacer, but still allows the spacer to pass inside the piston for a snug, but still loose fit. I originally started with a 1" Spacer and I was getting close to 550FPS w/ .30's, but my field does not allow that speed and I was getting some inconsistant groupings with the Hop-Up. I kept taking some off the spacer little by little until finally I was around my target FPS which is around 500FPS. This also settleddown the Hop-Up to allow it to do it's job very consistantly. If someone wanted to find a spacer or custom make one the size I have is ( 6/16"OD X 5/16"ID). The length I am getting 500FPS at is 9/16".

 

cylinder_4.jpg

As you can see it worked out well and the sear engagement area on the piston is still showing no signs of wear.

 

triggersear_1.jpg

Sear 1200 Rounds later after modifications. I have put about 300 more through it since the pic was taken.

 

Barrel & Hop-Up

 

From the factory (in my very honest opinion) there is no better Hop-Up than the UTG Mk96. It is well built and seems to be very durable. I only did a couple of things to it that really did help the performance. The advertisements for the MK96 says it comes with a high performance accurized 6.03mm Barrel. I have not done measurements yet so I do not know. What I do know is it is indeed accurate and as long as it stays that way there is no reason to get an aftermarket barrel or to start crunching numbers to find flaws in it (If it ain't broke, don't fix it). I did come up with a complete harmonic/ viberation dampening system based on real life firearm applications that eliminates barrel harmonics and vibrations.

 

barrel_2-1.jpg

Here is the barrel with combined modifications

 

barrel_1-1.jpg

I installed 9/16 Rubber Grommets over the entire barrel while installing the original neoprene spacers spaced equally apart. I than used Black Duct Tape (pics says electrical which is wrong) over the grommets to create a full length spacer. Using the fishing line test, I completely eliminated all vibrations involving the barrel.

 

hopup_3.jpg

I disassembled the Hop-Up and washed the bucking in Soapy water. I lightly greased the outside of the bucking with the Sleek Grease and reinstalled making sure everything was perfect and alligned. I also cleaned and lubed my barrel with Otis 085 Ultra Bore Cleaner and Lubricant. *IMPORTANT: Always clean your barrel from back to front (hop-Up end to tip). This is common technique in real firearms and is no difference when it comes to airsoft. I never run a rod or swab from the front tip down. You are going against the grain of the barrel. You always want to go with the direction the BB is traveling. The only way to properly clean the barrel is to remove the barrel from the Hop-Up and run the cleaning swab from back to front. I cannot stress how very important this is especially with softer metals like brass and aluminum.

 

hopup_2.jpg

From the factory the Hop-Up Adjustment screw was very loose which is not good when it comes to such a sensitive area. I added some Blue Loctite to the screw which does not lock it fully, but gives it a more tight fit that will not become too loose while adjusting, operating or firing.

 

hopup_1.jpg

This mod honestly helped my consistancy and groupings alot. I installed small pieces of the high densisty furniture cushion foam on the 2 sides of the Hop-up slides. Before there was alot of wobble. After installing them there is no wobble and it is a very snug finish, but not too tight to still allow for proper operation.

 

Break down of parts used by Mod:

 

Stock mods:

-High Densisty and Expanding Furniture Cushion Foam ($8.99 Hobby Lobby)

 

Bolt/ Cylinder/ Piston Mods:

-Sleek Grease (DOW 33 Grease)

-Teflon Tape

-Plastic Epoxy

-Danco #13 O-Ring (Box of 10 $1.99 Lowes)

-Polymer 1" Tube from DANCO SP-3 Faucet Repair Kit $1.99 (Or make custom spacer = 6/16"OD X 5/16"ID X 1").

 

Barrel/ Hop-Up Mods:

-Sleek Grease (DOW 33 Grease) $9.99 per tube

-9/16 Rubber Grommets (Bag of 100 $8.99 from lowes)

-Duct Tape

-Blue Loctite

-High Densisty and Expanding Furniture Cushion Foam

 

Additional Information:

 

Here is a very handy update regarding stock replacement buckings and parts for the UTG MK96. I called Leapers today and talked with their customer service department. I asked them if I can order replacement parts for the UTG MK96 and they told me they do not sell to the public and only to business's. I hung up the phone in frustration and called back this time talking with their sales department. This time I got some where. They ask you the general questions (Name, Address, Phone Number, What type of airsoft gun, where did you purchase it from and how long ago). *For those of you who like to read between the lines pay attention as the Leapers warranty on the UTG MK96 is 30 days.* I moved on telling him all the info he needed also letting him know I bought it from Airsoft Atlanta 4 Weeks Ago. He than said he can send as many replacement parts as I need free of charge since it falls in their 30 day warranty. I asked for 4 Hop-Up Buckings and just in case a new piston. Without hesitation he agreed and said these will go out today priority mail and do I need any other replacement parts? How is that for customer service!? His name was Haung and he was a super guy. Here is another +1 for Leapers.

 

Disassembly videos:

 

 

Final remarks:

 

Again thanks for everyone on here and other sites for the help. It's been a fun and very interesting project that has given some surprising performance and durability results. I would like to say the durability and how well this rifle has held up and responded to these performance upgrades have surprised me. I have a huge op this coming weekend that will truely test this rifles abilities... And to those who are wondering, I am not giving up on my VSR. I have some of Nickswimfasts arms on the way and if that don't work I will try some of Noobies TDC Hop-Up Adjusters when they come in stock. And if that don't work I will officially give up on it. I am having too much fun with a stock MK96 right now and have wasted too much time worrying about why my VSR can't shoot straight.

Until than watch the wind and shoot with both eyes open...

 

Zero_Wolf

Edited by Tux

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Dude this explains all the question I and other people have had. Someone needs to Pin this and that's for sure. Very good guide for the MK96 and how to make it better for cheap. This proves that all the people that claim it "sucks", either have a broken gun or just don't like it. 10/10! And someone please pin this!

 

SpitFire...

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Holy cow man! You know I can truly use this! This coveres it all man, great work its obviouse you took your time with it. Awsome job. This better get pinned! ITs better than all th eother pins ive read. Keep it up, keep us updated. thanks again

Hey and thanks for makin my shopping list at the end too

Edited by kovic

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Well I appreciate that mates. I have spent a many late night figuring out and testing what and how to accomplish these performance upgrades with the stock internals. I am not done yet. I am in the process of custom painting my Mk96 right now and will put up some more detailed instructions on how to properly and most importantly "Safely" mil-spec camo your MK96. I am sure there have been alot of rifle painting instructions and tutorials, this is basically how to mask the areas of concern off to keep paint from entering and damaging sensitive areas with added painting tutorial on how I accomplish my scheme of camo.

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Good Info, I actually never thought of putting the foam in there like that. I am also going to be painting my MK96 within the new day or two.

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Whoa! Triple post!?! Dumb Google Chrome! Mods feel free to delete.

Edited by da_airsoft_man

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Good Info, I actually never thought of putting the foam in there like that. I am also going to be painting my MK96 within the new day or two.

Me too! im still stuck on colors though, im getting so sick of trying to decide I may just leave it black

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Call me an :censored2:, but I find it suspicious that you claim 550 FPS with .30's when all you've done is improve the seal.

I've heard from most sources that it fires roughly 400, and for you to gain 150 FPS with simple seal mods really shows that the damn thing is shoddily made, in my opinion.

I do find your accuracy claims a little bit weird as well, and while a 6.03 from the factory might be fairly decent, I would suggest you buy a 6.01 or even a 6.02, it would improve your accuracy greatly, plus running higher quality bb's would probably help, although I don't know what kind of bb's you're using at the moment.

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Call me an :censored2:, but I find it suspicious that you claim 550 FPS with .30's when all you've done is improve the seal.

I've heard from most sources that it fires roughly 400, and for you to gain 150 FPS with simple seal mods really shows that the damn thing is shoddily made, in my opinion.

I do find your accuracy claims a little bit weird as well, and while a 6.03 from the factory might be fairly decent, I would suggest you buy a 6.01 or even a 6.02, it would improve your accuracy greatly, plus running higher quality bb's would probably help, although I don't know what kind of bb's you're using at the moment.

:censored2: every party has a pooper. The 550 was when he put in a one inch spring spacer . And he mentioned he uses kcs .30 perfects bbs. Read the whole thing mate

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Ah, ok then, a 1 inch spacer does make sense but is likely to put some pretty bad wear on that thing eventually.

everything will wear down eventualy no matter what, grease it and it will last pretty decently

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Sauber. You brought up good points bro, but as Kovic says you really need to read the "whole" post before posting stuff that could derail the whole purpose of this thread. Also you can recommend me getting all the upgrades for this rifle, but frankly I have over $800 sunk into a VSR-10 that is giving me some terrible problems right now and it has a PDI 6.01 with all kinds of ups that I will not get into here. I am just saying putting a barrel in something that is already performing exceptionally well is really defeating the purpose. I can consistantly hit a Torso at 230' with KSC .30's. I am perfectly fine with that and beside myself that it performs that well. All of my mods are completely and totally legit with no false claims on my part. I am too old to play those adolescent games and to be honest would not have went through all of this trouble and work to post up falsifications. Me and my old partner went in together and purchased a Madbull Chrono and that is what I am gettiing as far as FPS with a 9/16" Spacer. With that being said the #1 topic on the Sniper Rifle forums is upgrading. People love upgrading with aftermarket parts, not just with airsoft, but with all types of applications. They just enjoy telling others that if you sink $$$ in this rifle than it can shoot way better. I have no doubt about this as I have personally had hands own experiance with my buds BAR and I can tell you now just about every part on that rifle from the factory is a POS. You would be crazy not too upgrade it. I am letting some people know that there are in fact some rifles out there that are not total POS from the factory. This thread is showing you that you can modify a UTG MK96 with little finacial investment and still have the confidence enough that it will last you quite awhile and give you well above average precision and performance. My sears look just as good as the day I bought this rifle for my son and the same with the piston. Again it maybe because of the Sleek Grease I use, but I think it also rests on the light piston which is made with incredibly hard polymer. The polymer is very easy on the wear of the sear and at the same time super hard to not to wear on the sear engagement trench on the piston itself. If I changed it to metal aftermarket piston I would almost promise you that the sear would start to show some serious wear. Metal on metal friction is the worst type

 

One of the first reviews I did of my sons Mk96 I stated how well it was built and the parts seem to be of nice quality. I just went with that and it looks to be still the case. Again this could be the Sleek grease I use, but I think it is a combined reasoning. I would like to tell you, no beg you, to at least try the sleek grease I use or any other product with DOW 33 Grease. I will tell you it will improve your springers performance and mechanical wear by far...

Edited by ZER0_W0LF

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ZERO,

Thanks so much from all of us out there who do have the UTG MK96. It's a slightly unrecognized gun and does not get anywhere near the praise it deserves. Like everyone said, this had better get pinned. Also, thanks for the great pics. They help people kids like me understand mods and get to where we can do them ourselves. Again, thank you.

P.S.- I need to P.M. you soon about your game calls. Dads got a birthday coming soon and we hunt Coyotes a boat load.

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Excellente!

 

A few notes though:

 

1. The drastic FPS changes are due to a longer and what I beleive to be a more balanced cylinder to barrel volume ratio. Unfortunately, this is not the case in terms of the BAR-10/VSR-10. The longer barrel allows for more time for compression to take place from the pressure being built up by the BB/hop-up unit. With this being said and taken into consideration, I can see 500 FPS with .30g.

 

2. The barrel cleaning tip is more important and also affects performance more so in real steel application than airsoft. The reason being is that real steel rifles rely on the barrel as a "guide" and rifled barrels, by design, make more contact with RS bullets than airsoft barrels make with airsoft BBs. Airsoft barrels are designed to act as a guide too but by use of an air pocket that the BB is supposed to "float" down. In theory, the BB shouldn't make very much contact with the barrel walls at all. However, we all know that this is not the case but still, nevertheless, airsoft BBs make much less contact with the barrel wall when compared to RS guns and their corresponding ammunition. However, I am not saying your tip is not valid or important -- IT IS BY ALL MEANS. My point is merely that it isn't as BIG as a factor in the airsoft world as it is in RS.

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Dually noted tux. I am just an avid Shooter of real weapons and thats really all I know. I figured going with the grain of the barrel would insure proper bb travel. it may or may not help as you say, but there is something I just don't like about running a barrel swab down the pipe of a rifle where the bb is coming the opposite way if you know what I mean.

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Yep I do agree. When the BB DOES occasionally make contact with the barrel surface then it would most likely have more of a resistance if the barrel was roughened in the opposite direction of travel. Hence, the BB would slow down more than it would if you cleaned in the same direction.

Edited by Tux

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Nope I can't say I have. I have worked on a Maruzen 96, Well/UTG 96, and a Well MB05.

 

I've also done an internal takedown and look at the AGM 96 as well.

 

 

Why do you ask?

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I was just curious as it sounds you have been around the block a time or two dealing with airsoft long rifles. It shows. I have not had that much experiance with them, but the knowledge is sticking to me like glue. I have always had the knack of looking at something and making it better. I look at airsoft the same way. I don't know if I like playing the sport more or sitting at home with some DIY hobby work.

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Yes but more so with BAR-10/VSR-10 clones. I'm not too comfortable with modding type 96 clones myself. However, there are many, many, factors that can be applied globally to both VSR and 96 guns.

 

Speaking of Type 96 guns, I'm looking for some sort of base for a SV-98 project here soon.

 

 

His name was Haung and he was a super guy. Here is another +1 for Leapers.

I know Haung. He did the same for me and my M324 parts. Excellent customer service as well.

 

 

Added your info to original post by the way.

Edited by Tux

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Fantastic work Zero!

 

I followed your instructions to the teeth (minus the stock piston and spring guide parts) and it turned out very well for me. That foam is just amazing. I have been having so much trouble with my hop-up ring wiggling around and that foam just solved all of my problems. My L96 now out ranges my M14 DMR by a good 35' now that it can finally shoot straight.

 

Im glad you joined the forums. Finally some more smart brains to help with common problems with not so common solutions :)

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Not a prob Deadly. I am just paying it forward as so many people has helped me here on the ASF Snipers forum and continues to do so with my VSR issues I have at the moment. The stock UTG 96'er is a diamond and thats a fact. You just got to dig for it and clean it up a bit for it to shine. Now get out there and let that big dawg eat ;)

Edited by ZER0_W0LF

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The only reason I switched out the spring guide and piston was to go to metal. It's a lot more durable and I've just had bad luck with plastic parts, the problem lies in that I also have to get new sears because, the rifle was designed for the plastic parts......

 

I seriously have to thank you for that foam trick for hop up. EVERYTIME I went to adjust the hop up, it would wiggle and adjust it too far so that the bbs would just fly straight up, or not enough so they would fall right to the ground. And I just notcied when putting in the foam that the L96 is VERY hollow. There is a ton of empty space in this stock!

 

One thing that I noticed from your post was that you put in the foam from the trigger on back through the stock. I could not do that because there was a plastic wall right behind the trigger, I just took off the butt plate and shoved foam in from that way. Same result, just a different method.

Edited by Deadlyapollo

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Roger that Deadly. I do not know what type of 96 you have so the plastic piston and spring guide may or may not have been of good quality. Usually, on most airsoft rifles, the stock parts for the cylinder internals are of a cheap and shearble plastic that will wear very, very easily. The UTG 96 uses high stress compression polymer to make the piston and spring guide as stated above. This is not your ordinary plastic. It is extremely tough and easy on the stock trigger sears.

Edited by ZER0_W0LF

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It was the UTG MK96 from airsoftgi.com, same as yours but I may have gotten a different year model. I still have the stock parts, only used them for like 500 rounds and no cracks, but I got a good deal on a new piston and spring guide that I couldn't pass up.

 

 

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I wish. I do not have a camera, as I was SUPPOSED to get one for my Bday but sadly it never came. I was going to use it for my review on the G&G GR-16 rifle but again, no camera no pics.

 

I do have a question though. After filling your stock and it was all put together, was your bolt pull a LOT harder? Mine is and I don't see why.

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this is without a doubt the most impressive DIY guide I've ever come across for the 96. I first wanna start off by saying thank you for posting this because this is sure to help many players.

 

now with that said I do have a few questions.

 

1. where do you get this Sleek grease that you use? I myself would like to give it a try.

2.What is the "fishing line test" that you used to determine barrel vibration?

3. I went to look for this "blue" loctite and I found several that came in blue packaging so I was unsure which was correct. can you verify?

 

also, I'd like to note a few extras I did so far.

 

I removed all the allen screws along the entire body of the rifle and the stock will seperate into 2 halves. then with the stock opened I was able to remove the 2 very large weights in the rear of the gun, taking down the overall weight that much more (because I too know how much of a pain it can be to crawl prone for long distances with a 10lb rifle lol). After the removal of the weights I began to fill in all of the space inside the entire length of the rifle with foam (expect for the cylinder and magazine sections. I did this with both sides of the stock, then closed it back up. Then I began to cut blocks and squeeze them in with a flathead. So I don't know if I was able to get more foam in by taking the body apart, but I DO know that I got that weight outta there and that helped quite a bit.

 

 

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I also found out the reason behind my wrist hurting. It was in fact that heavy *** weight in the back. I can now hole my rifle for more than 20 minutes without my wrist bothering me....I love this guide. We need this pinned!

 

Also, by thin strips near reciever, your talkinh\g about the actual reciever part like in the last foam picture right?

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I am talking about both the Barrel bedding (where the barrel rests on the stock) and the reciver bedding (Where the receiver rests on the stock).

 

Predator I agree and yes to the weight removal within the back of the stock. If anyone wants to you can take apart the 2 piece stock and remove them. I tried that and it made the rifle a little too front heavy for my taste. I am also a fully grown man and did not want to totally kill the feel of the rifle if you know what I mean. I installed them back which balanced the big boy back. When I removed the small weight from the shoulder butt that was just about perfect for me. So yeah go for it. When all the weight is removed it only out weighs my VSR just a little bit if you can deal with how front heavy it is.

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I just went and picked up some #13 O-rings of my own.

I also went and bought a Danco faucet repair kit, however the only one that I could find was an SR-3 kit, whereas the one you posted said SP-3. Mind does have the small little tube in it..was it a typo or is the SR-3 and incorrect kit?

I went to get my Rubber Grommets and our lowes (and home depot) only sold them in packs of 2, at $1.04 per pack, I didn't wanna spend over $50 for the grommets so I'll have to browse around and buy em online.

 

1. where do you get this Sleek grease that you use? I myself would like to give it a try.

2.What is the "fishing line test" that you used to determine barrel vibration?

3. I went to look for this "blue" loctite and I found several that came in blue packaging so I was unsure which was correct. can you verify?

 

sorry about all the questions, I just wanna do this right!

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You got it Predator. It is the SR-3. It is a typo on my part.

 

You can buy the 9/16 Grommets for super cheap here:

9/16 Grommets

 

You can Get Sleek Grease at paintball supply stores, online, and ebay. You can also get Slick Honey DOW 33 Grease if you cannot find the Smart Parts brand.

Smart Parts Sleek Grease

Slick Honey Grease

 

Just a side note I would highly recommend Otis 085 Barrel Cleaner and Lubricant. It is a Solvent, lubricant, and rust inhibitor all-in-one. Contains PTFE that coats the bore and eliminates bb residue build-up. Need only a few drops on the front of the patch. Completely dries leaving no oily residue.

Otis 085 Barrel Cleaner & Lubricant

 

I would not recommend these items if they really did not make a difference in my own 96'er.

 

As far as the fishing line test, I described that here:

Fishing Line Harmonic Vibration Test

 

Blue Loctite is just that. The color of the glue is Blue. It holds very strong, but it will not completely lock your screw or bolt. It makes your hop-Up adjustment screw a tighter fit and eliminates it loosening or wobbling back out. **WARNING** Do not get the Red Loctite. It will completely lock your screw and you will probably break the bolt when you try to unscrew it.

Blue Loctite Thread Locker

Edited by ZER0_W0LF

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