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Angelust

Just got a used Tanaka M700 Pre-ban- what maintenance does it need?

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Hey all,

 

Just got a Tanaka M700 Police Preban on Craigslist for a steal. However, something's not right.

 

Problem at first: The striker plate was so dry and fit into place that it wasn't even releasing gas at first, so nothing would fire. After working around with it for a while, it started firing okay. Today I just brought it to a local airsoft tech who dismantled the mag, oiled it up, and now the mag seems to be working perfectly.

 

Problem currently: I just got a propane adaptor, and with propane and the PCS bolt completely open, it's shooting at around 350 FPS with .2s. When I tried using Green Gas, it got around 430 - 460 with .2s.

 

I'm guessing either the adapter or propane tank is just weak, since the green gas is having better results. However, I was expecting somewhere along the lines of 600-650 on .2s with an open PCS.

 

What might be causing my FPS to be so low? Keep in mind that this rifle has been kept in a closet for more than a year I think, which means dust and dryness are probably abundant. I used some silicon spray on the rubber piece that connects the magazine valve to the bolt, as well as later spraying some into the chamber and firing a few rounds through to try and lube up the insides, though it didn't help at all.

 

 

Any suggestions? I would really hate to purchase a new part to find out that it's not the problem. My goal is to try and get the rifle shooting 550 or so with .28 and above. Is it too much to expect that from a stock gun with PCS bolt?

 

Thanks for any help, all your advice will really help.

 

Edit: I live in Southern California, and the weather is nice and warm. I don't think the coldness is affecting the gas that much. Consistency was pretty good for the most part, with about a 10-20 FPS variance when the variables were the same (gas-type, bb weight, PCS position, etc).

Edited by Angelust

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Hey all,

 

Just got a Tanaka M700 Police Preban on Craigslist for a steal. However, something's not right.

 

Problem at first: The striker plate was so dry and fit into place that it wasn't even releasing gas at first, so nothing would fire. After working around with it for a while, it started firing okay. Today I just brought it to a local airsoft tech who dismantled the mag, oiled it up, and now the mag seems to be working perfectly.

 

Problem currently: I just got a propane adaptor, and with propane and the PCS bolt completely open, it's shooting at around 350 FPS with .2s. When I tried using Green Gas, it got around 430 - 460 with .2s.

 

I'm guessing either the adapter or propane tank is just weak, since the green gas is having better results. However, I was expecting somewhere along the lines of 600-650 on .2s with an open PCS.

 

What might be causing my FPS to be so low? Keep in mind that this rifle has been kept in a closet for more than a year I think, which means dust and dryness are probably abundant. I used some silicon spray on the rubber piece that connects the magazine valve to the bolt, as well as later spraying some into the chamber and firing a few rounds through to try and lube up the insides, though it didn't help at all.

 

 

Any suggestions? I would really hate to purchase a new part to find out that it's not the problem. My goal is to try and get the rifle shooting 550 or so with .28 and above. Is it too much to expect that from a stock gun with PCS bolt?

 

Thanks for any help, all your advice will really help.

 

Edit: I live in Southern California, and the weather is nice and warm. I don't think the coldness is affecting the gas that much. Consistency was pretty good for the most part, with about a 10-20 FPS variance when the variables were the same (gas-type, bb weight, PCS position, etc).

 

Two possibilities.

 

1) You have the 1 Joule tapered choked nozzle that is mandatory in Japan. The solution is to purchase the replacement open nozzle.

 

2) The striker spring tension is dialed down or the spring has settled. The solution is to open up the bolt and take a look. The spring tension should be set around 80% or higher depending on the results you're looking for. A $10 G&G replacement spring might help.

 

It sounds alot like #1 judging from the symptoms. And yes, while the stock version is nice, don't expect to get the same kind of consistency and accuracy as upgraded versions. You can squeeze out plenty of power but power isn't everything.

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Thanks,

 

So if the nozzle is the problem, is the king arms nozzle a suitable replacement?

 

http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.ph...oducts_id=32381

 

Is this fairly easy to install?

 

Thanks for any help.

 

EDIT: Also, does that mean that there are two kinds of pre-bans? I.e. Both have PCS bolt, but one has a choked nozzle and the other doesn't? Sorry for my ignorance.

Edited by Angelust

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Thanks,

 

So if the nozzle is the problem, is the king arms nozzle a suitable replacement?

 

http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.ph...oducts_id=32381

 

Is this fairly easy to install?

 

Thanks for any help.

 

EDIT: Also, does that mean that there are two kinds of pre-bans? I.e. Both have PCS bolt, but one has a choked nozzle and the other doesn't? Sorry for my ignorance.

 

If it is then yes that would be the fix. However, I just re-read your earlier post. I missed the PCS. If you do have a PCS bolt then it would be rare to have a tapered nozzle. Most of the post-ban stuff that comes out of Japan has the 1j nozzle but pre-ban PCS bolts usually do not. It's still a possibility that the rifle was modified with a tapered nozzle to make it legal in Japan then found it's way to the you.

 

You'll definitely want to take apart the bolt and check the spring first before you buy the part. Also, you mentioned it's old and dried out? Take a good look at the hopup chamber to make sure it hasn't gone bad and you're getting a poor seal. At some point down the line you'll want to replace that with a 2roy or KA hopup chamber to able use VSR style aftermarket barrels.

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If it is then yes that would be the fix. However, I just re-read your earlier post. I missed the PCS. If you do have a PCS bolt then it would be rare to have a tapered nozzle. Most of the post-ban stuff that comes out of Japan has the 1j nozzle but pre-ban PCS bolts usually do not. It's still a possibility that the rifle was modified with a tapered nozzle to make it legal in Japan then found it's way to the you.

 

You'll definitely want to take apart the bolt and check the spring first before you buy the part. Also, you mentioned it's old and dried out? Take a good look at the hopup chamber to make sure it hasn't gone bad and you're getting a poor seal. At some point down the line you'll want to replace that with a 2roy or KA hopup chamber to able use VSR style aftermarket barrels.

 

I see. I'll take some pictures and post them up here so that you'll see what I'm seeing. Is there a way to tell if the spring is worn down? I don't really know what a healthy spring is supposed to look like.

 

I live pretty close to evike, so I can get some upgrade parts pretty easy if necessary, though their return policy is somewhat strict...

 

 

 

EDIT:

 

OK, so I began to test this thing in my backyard to see it's accuracy, leaving behind its FPS issues, and it was shooting all over the place. With hop up on, it would veer left and right and up, and without it it would generally shoot pretty straight but have a crazy flier once in a while.

 

I figured the hop up might be off, so I disassembled it and checked it out. Forgive my lack of terminology knowledge, but the bucking had some wear and tear on the inside, around that O part that holds the BB in place before it's shot. The ring looked okay in most places, except the top part of the bucking. In that area, it was almost completely worn away (though I'm not sure why).

 

Then I took off that rubber square tab that fits on top of the square cut-out of the barrel, and noticed that one side of the curved rubber area had the edges torn off. I'm not sure if this was significant, but it seemed like it couldn't be good. Below is a picture.

 

 

DSC_2126.jpg

 

DSC_2127.jpg

 

DSC_2124.jpg

 

 

At this point, I'm guessing I should just get a G&G rubber set and replace my current rubber set. I noticed that my current rubber set has 2 pieces, the square tab and the bucking. The G&G has 3...what is that extra curved piece supposed to be for?

 

I'm also considering if the barrel is bent. I looked down the barrel and couldn't tell if there was any bend or not, though I'm sure a slight warp to it could really throw it off. When I disassembled it the very first time a week ago, it might have strained a little against the outer barrel. I know I'll need to get a tightbore eventually, but I'd rather hold off until I'm sure that the barrel I have is unuseable (an EdGI tightbore around here costs $110, which is about $30 less than I paid for the gun! Haha)

 

So to summarize my questions:

 

1) Is my problem my rubber set? (Also, what is the name for that square tab?)

2) Will the G&G rubber set be a good replacement? (Should I probably just go ahead and get a nicer bucking while I'm at it?)

3) What is the third rubber piece from the G&G set for?

4) Lastly, I can't use VSR10 buckings on a stock Tanaka M700 unless I upgrade to a King Arms or 2Roy conversion chamber, correct? But KJWs can use VSR buckings?

 

 

Sorry for the Newbie questions and Thanks!

Edited by Angelust

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No responses for a while, but something else came to my mind.

 

I noticed that the striker plate on the magazine is really worn in. I'll take a picture and post it up later if I can. Is that were my FPS might be dropping off a bit?

 

Also on a related though not particularly Tanaka question: when trying to use Propane, I'm getting about 100 FPS less than with regular old Green gas. I have never used propane before, and I got a KJW plastic propane adaptor. Is it just a junk adapter? I heard plastic should be better than metal for sealing?

 

Anyway, this is what I'm planning without any further info from the boards:

 

Planned upgrade route (in order)

 

G&G rubber set to replace old stuff

Striker Plate replacement (if that's my FPS problem)

G&G Striker Spring (if that's my FPS problem)

 

 

Then when I get some more money:

King Arms conversion Chamber

Tightbore VSR barrel (not sure what's compatible...any old AEG barrel like a PSG1 barrel?)

Nineball bucking (or firefly)

 

And then I would work on some of the consistency mods.

 

Any expert advice left for this?

 

 

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Sorry I didn't answer earlier but editing a post doesn't update the thread, just that single post so no one knew anything new had been posted.

 

Oh wow, the hopup nub you're holding in the pic is beat to crap. The creases and bends are what's causing the erratic bb behavior. It should be a smooth concave shape, not a sideways wedge. You'll want to take someone smooth and rounded like the shaft of a screwdriver and burnish the edges smooth then reverse the nub so that the unaffected part is facing the incoming bb's. If you later start to get the erratic shots then disassemble the rifle and check the nub again. It's possible that the nub damage was caused by it catching on the edge of the barrel window or some other part when being cranked down.

 

The G&G kit comes with 3 pieces. Two of them you identified. The third replaces the gas route seal located at the bottom of your bolt. I'm guessing that if your gun has been used as hard as the part wear shows then you'll probably want to replace that part as well.

 

Yes, the KJW can use VSR hopup rubbers without needing the 2roy or KA conversion kit.

 

The striker plate is a good interim fix for the time being but when you get the money you'll want to eventually buy a G&G power pack which replaces the innards of the magazine. Those might be worn down as well.

 

To check if the barrel is bent, find a flat table (or even the floor) and simply roll the barrel. Any curves should become noticeable. While I would normally recommend an Edgi or PDI barrel, the Madbull tightbore is still a decent choice if you're on a budget. It's cheap, better than the stock barrel, and will allow you to get used to the rifle in a game while you save up for an Edgi or PDI. Did I mention it was cheap?

 

Oh and green gas is the same thing as propane. Only a slight amount of oil is added. The characteristics are exactly the same although straight propane is "dry" thus requiring you to manually lube and oil any rubber seals on the rifle.

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Sorry I didn't answer earlier but editing a post doesn't update the thread, just that single post so no one knew anything new had been posted.

 

Oh wow, the hopup nub you're holding in the pic is beat to crap. The creases and bends are what's causing the erratic bb behavior. It should be a smooth concave shape, not a sideways wedge. You'll want to take someone smooth and rounded like the shaft of a screwdriver and burnish the edges smooth then reverse the nub so that the unaffected part is facing the incoming bb's. If you later start to get the erratic shots then disassemble the rifle and check the nub again. It's possible that the nub damage was caused by it catching on the edge of the barrel window or some other part when being cranked down.

 

The G&G kit comes with 3 pieces. Two of them you identified. The third replaces the gas route seal located at the bottom of your bolt. I'm guessing that if your gun has been used as hard as the part wear shows then you'll probably want to replace that part as well.

 

Yes, the KJW can use VSR hopup rubbers without needing the 2roy or KA conversion kit.

 

The striker plate is a good interim fix for the time being but when you get the money you'll want to eventually buy a G&G power pack which replaces the innards of the magazine. Those might be worn down as well.

 

To check if the barrel is bent, find a flat table (or even the floor) and simply roll the barrel. Any curves should become noticeable. While I would normally recommend an Edgi or PDI barrel, the Madbull tightbore is still a decent choice if you're on a budget. It's cheap, better than the stock barrel, and will allow you to get used to the rifle in a game while you save up for an Edgi or PDI. Did I mention it was cheap?

 

Oh and green gas is the same thing as propane. Only a slight amount of oil is added. The characteristics are exactly the same although straight propane is "dry" thus requiring you to manually lube and oil any rubber seals on the rifle.

 

Sorry for being so dense, but does that mean the Tanaka can basically accept any regular Tight-Bore barrel? I.e. the barrel below?

 

http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.ph...oducts_id=24376

 

I'm not sure if 650mm is too long, though the other barrel lengths all seem too short (590mm). The EDGI barrel I saw for the M700 was 629 mm, so I'm afraid if I get the 650mm than it will come out the front of the barrel cap. Though if I go under and get a 590, that it won't reach up until the end of the barrel.

 

But first, I'm really unclear on what barrels are compatible with the Tanaka M700. Sorry to ask for spoonfeeding, but could you link some budget barrels (Madbull or Matrix, etc) that are compatible with Tanaka M700s out of the box? Thanks!

 

 

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Tanaka rifles can only take barrels cut for a Tanaka rifle. The 2roy/KA conversion hopup changes that so that the Tanaka can use VSR cut barrels. The "cut" is defined as the hopup nub window (the hole where the nub enters the barrel) shape and location. The old but was a round hole where as VSR barrels use a square hole. VSR barrels require you to use the VSR style hopup rubbers which are a single piece instead of 2 pieces like the stock Tanaka.

 

The stock Tanaka barrel is 588mm. You shouldn't have any problems with a 590mm VSR barrel assuming you installed the 2roy or KA conversion kit.

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Tanaka rifles can only take barrels cut for a Tanaka rifle. The 2roy/KA conversion hopup changes that so that the Tanaka can use VSR cut barrels. The "cut" is defined as the hopup nub window (the hole where the nub enters the barrel) shape and location. The old but was a round hole where as VSR barrels use a square hole. VSR barrels require you to use the VSR style hopup rubbers which are a single piece instead of 2 pieces like the stock Tanaka.

 

The stock Tanaka barrel is 588mm. You shouldn't have any problems with a 590mm VSR barrel assuming you installed the 2roy or KA conversion kit.

 

Hm...the mystery continues.

 

The previous owner said there were some upgrades in this rifle, but he didn't know what.

 

Now the barrel inside the gun has a square window. This Tanaka barrel I saw looks like it has a round window.

 

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/first-factory-6...m700-639mm.html

 

This DEFINITELY does not look like my barrel. Is this what Tanaka m700 barrels are supposed to look like?

 

Mine has 4 total pieces that go into the hop up chamber: The hop up nub which is a square tab that fits into a roughly square cut hole into the barrel, a cylindrical metal piece that slides over the tab and has a metal square hole cut in it, the hop up bucking which goes half way onto the barrel, and the inner barrel itself.

 

I'll take pictures later, but is this normal?

 

Thanks, CJ

 

Edit: Did some hunting around on the internet forums, and it seems like people are saying that the KJW and King Arms chamber can use any barrel cut for the standard AEG? The only difference I could note on visual estimation is that strict VSR Pistol-style barrel cuts do not have a square cut hole 1mm or so from the barrel lip, but actually cut all the way off the barrel and exclude the small 1mm long strip of barrel that makes it an entirely circular entrance for the bbs coming in.

 

However other "VSR" style barrels appear to have a normal square-cut hopup hole, looking identical to AEG inner barrels. If the King Arms chamber can accept any old AEG barrel, than I have tons of options, as evike is just a short drive away. I would definitely be willing to get a King Arms Chamber, AEG barrel, and decent bucking if it's going to be under $150. But if VSR barrels are really hard to find at 590mm length, or alternatively just really expensive, I might just stick with a Tanaka setup instead. Any advice *sorry these questions are so dumb*

 

CJ

Edited by Angelust

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Hm...the mystery continues.

 

The previous owner said there were some upgrades in this rifle, but he didn't know what.

 

Now the barrel inside the gun has a square window. This Tanaka barrel I saw looks like it has a round window.

 

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/first-factory-6...m700-639mm.html

 

This DEFINITELY does not look like my barrel. Is this what Tanaka m700 barrels are supposed to look like?

 

Mine has 4 total pieces that go into the hop up chamber: The hop up nub which is a square tab that fits into a roughly square cut hole into the barrel, a cylindrical metal piece that slides over the tab and has a metal square hole cut in it, the hop up bucking which goes half way onto the barrel, and the inner barrel itself.

 

I'll take pictures later, but is this normal?

 

Thanks, CJ

 

Edit: Did some hunting around on the internet forums, and it seems like people are saying that the KJW and King Arms chamber can use any barrel cut for the standard AEG? The only difference I could note on visual estimation is that strict VSR Pistol-style barrel cuts do not have a square cut hole 1mm or so from the barrel lip, but actually cut all the way off the barrel and exclude the small 1mm long strip of barrel that makes it an entirely circular entrance for the bbs coming in.

 

However other "VSR" style barrels appear to have a normal square-cut hopup hole, looking identical to AEG inner barrels. If the King Arms chamber can accept any old AEG barrel, than I have tons of options, as evike is just a short drive away. I would definitely be willing to get a King Arms Chamber, AEG barrel, and decent bucking if it's going to be under $150. But if VSR barrels are really hard to find at 590mm length, or alternatively just really expensive, I might just stick with a Tanaka setup instead. Any advice *sorry these questions are so dumb*

 

CJ

 

My tanaka has a square hole as well. The difference between a vsr and an aeg barrel is that the vsr barrel has a small groove for the lip on the bucking (for a tighter seal). So yes you can buy an aeg barrel ( I have both barrels for comparison and the KA chamber) but you will have to add the groove or cut the lip off of the vsr bucking.

Edited by rdjorge

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Here is a picture of the different types of barrels courtesy of bnoji. From the top: VSR, KJW, AEG. All have a square cut window for the nub.

 

 

M700vsVSRvsAEG.jpg

 

 

If you have a square cut window on your barrel but using the old nub and rubber then there's a good chance that someone tried to rig it up that way without realizing that you need a hopup conversion kit like the KA or 2roy to use those types of barrels. The round nub window shown in the pic from Ehobby is exactly what a stock Tanaka barrel should look like. You'll notice that your nub is also round. You'll also notice that the location of the window is vastly different on the two types of barrel (VSR/AEG near the rear while Tanaka is much more forward).

Edited by Brainplay

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Here is a picture of the different types of barrels courtesy of bnoji. From the top: VSR, KJW, AEG. All have a square cut window for the nub.

 

 

M700vsVSRvsAEG.jpg

 

 

If you have a square cut window on your barrel but using the old nub and rubber then there's a good chance that someone tried to rig it up that way without realizing that you need a hopup conversion kit like the KA or 2roy to use those types of barrels. The round nub window shown in the pic from Ehobby is exactly what a stock Tanaka barrel should look like. You'll notice that your nub is also round. You'll also notice that the location of the window is vastly different on the two types of barrel (VSR/AEG near the rear while Tanaka is much more forward).

 

 

Ahh, thank you so much for that picture Brainplay. So the VSR/KJW barrels basically have that groove above the hop up cut, where the bucking can fill with it's rubber lip. Whereas the AEG and their buckings are smooth and flat.

 

I rechecked my barrel just now, and I was totally wrong. It is a round hole. Sorry to waste time on that one.

 

Here is a picture of my magazine. Is the strike plate the reason why I'm getting somewhat low FPS?

 

DSC_2130.jpg

DSC_2129.jpg

DSC_2128.jpg

 

Not sure if you can tell. Not sure if there's anything else I can do to raise the FPS right now. The striker spring seems okay to me, though I don't really have anything to compare it to.

 

When I get the KA chamber, bucking, and tightbore, I'll rechrono everything. I'll also try a new propane adapter and see if it can at least catch up to Green Gas.

 

 

Also, I've read that Propane is a bit higher PSI than Green Gas, by maybe 10-20 FPS on most guns. Is that true?

 

CJ

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Ahh, thank you so much for that picture Brainplay. So the VSR/KJW barrels basically have that groove above the hop up cut, where the bucking can fill with it's rubber lip. Whereas the AEG and their buckings are smooth and flat.

 

I rechecked my barrel just now, and I was totally wrong. It is a round hole. Sorry to waste time on that one.

 

Here is a picture of my magazine. Is the strike plate the reason why I'm getting somewhat low FPS?

 

Not sure if you can tell. Not sure if there's anything else I can do to raise the FPS right now. The striker spring seems okay to me, though I don't really have anything to compare it to.

 

When I get the KA chamber, bucking, and tightbore, I'll rechrono everything. I'll also try a new propane adapter and see if it can at least catch up to Green Gas.

 

 

Also, I've read that Propane is a bit higher PSI than Green Gas, by maybe 10-20 FPS on most guns. Is that true?

 

CJ

 

I forgot to mention that I have the AICS, so this is what I meant by square hop up window Link.

 

The only problem with a worn plate like that is the extra friction against the sides. It looks like you need to replace it.

 

On propane vs green gas, yes propane (camping bottle..) has a slight higher pressure than green gas. Which will give you more fps!

Edited by rdjorge

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It must be my propane adapter then. I'm getting almost 100FPS less (350ish) with the propane, whereas when I used a green gas bottle last week I got about 450-460 or so.

 

Also, the plate pushes in just fine when it's empty and no gas is inside. I'll probably replace the plate anyway, or just go and get a G&G plunger set, since it's only like $16 more and seems like a longer term fix. I'm just afraid I won't be able to reassemble the magazine very well once I take it apart, as I hear it's tricky to get the insides positioned correctly once they're out of the housing.

 

On the bright side, I took out the hop up, positioned it carefully, and reassembled everything, and the extremely wild hop up fliers were toned down. I still got a couple that would just fly up at 20 degree angles once in a while, but it was much more consistent than before. (Not good yet though).

 

 

 

On my maintenance/upgrade path:

 

Immediately to fix the FPS and consistency issues:

Exchange my Propane adapter for a new one *fingers crossed*

G&G Rubber Set (I just bought this on Airsoftgi, waiting for delivery)

Teflon Tape the Hop Up

G&G plunger set

G&G Striker Spring

____________________

Roughly $50-$60

 

 

Then when I get the money:

King Arms Hop Up Conversion Chamber (pricey!)

King Arms Air Seal

EdGI 629mm Tightbore VSR style barrel (pricey!)

Create custom V Nub

Teflon Tape the Hop Up

Use Electrical/Teflon tape to make barrel spacers

____________________

Roughly $215-$225

 

All in all, having paid $140 for the stock gun, it seems like it'd be a pretty decent setup for $400 total + some personal modifications. I almost kind of wish I had gotten a KJW M700 so that I would be more inclined to go all the way in for an Air Rig. The PCS bolt and realism for me really want me to keep it free of the cords and canisters though.

 

 

What do you guys think? I'll probably go ahead with this unless you guys have any better advice. I REALLY appreciated all the help so far. You guys probably saved me buckets of cash from trying to fix it myself without guidance or buying needless upgrade parts.

 

 

 

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That's weird. It could be a bad bottle? If it is filling fine then it is not the adapter, unless it leaks.

 

Sounds like some good upgrades! You could add the gas route connector spring on your next order. It helps to create a better seal against the bolt, or you could find a small spring that is stiffer at the parts store.

 

Opening the magazine is not that bad. If you didn't have any problems with the hop up parts, then you will be fine. Just pay attention on how you take it apart... and don't put any oil in it!

 

I know what you mean by spending all this money! I bought my Tanaka for $96 and have put over $500 into it! My original plan was to fix it and resale it. I ended up keeping it!! I am ok with it, my wife... not so much! :D

Edited by rdjorge

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The only tricky part about re-assembling the magazine is getting the knock arm to stay in the upright position (shaped like an L). The way around that is to turn everything upside down and gravity holds it in place. Easy. Be sure to lube the giant O-ring seal all over.

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The only tricky part about re-assembling the magazine is getting the knock arm to stay in the upright position (shaped like an L). The way around that is to turn everything upside down and gravity holds it in place. Easy. Be sure to lube the giant O-ring seal all over.

 

That is the same way I do it!! :a-grin: I wasn't sure on the o ring lube. There you you go Angelust listen to the man!

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That is the same way I do it!! :a-grin: I wasn't sure on the o ring lube. There you you go Angelust listen to the man!

 

So yes to spraying the inside with some silicon? When the tech at the shop opened my mag up, he sprayed some silicon inside the mag. Is that a problem?

 

Also, I'm going to the store today to try a new adapter, to see if it's the problem. I've tried 3 different coleman propane bottles, and the fps is basically the same on all of them.

 

If it's not the adapter, I'm not sure what it could be. I'll chrono it anyway and see if I can get some different results.

 

Thanks for the tips guys. I'll probably upgrade the magazine parts first to see if I can get the FPS shooting right.

 

I'll be installing the G&G rubber set today, so I'll see if that helps the consistency and accuracy as well.

 

Will keep you posted on how it's going.

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If he literally sprayed inside the magazine and not ONLY the o-ring (just to create a smooth seal) then you will see some of that silicon make its way into your barrel and hop-up. You can try to take several dry shots just to let most of the silicon out, then clean your barrel. Hopefully it won't be too bad...

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If he literally sprayed inside the magazine and not ONLY the o-ring (just to create a smooth seal) then you will see some of that silicon make its way into your barrel and hop-up. You can try to take several dry shots just to let most of the silicon out, then clean your barrel. Hopefully it won't be too bad...

 

Yeah, he sprayed it all inside. I've manually dried the hop up and nub, so hopefully it's not affecting it too much.

 

So update on the Tanaka:

 

I went to the Evike store, and tried out some things. I used a different propane adapter, and was getting similar results. I had consistency problems all across the board, from 150 fps to 400 fps, and nothing seemed to be working.

 

Then I tried a KJW M700 display model's magazine, and used the adapter I had, and it worked flawlessly. 430-435 fps with very little consistency variance.

 

So I decided to buy the G&G striker spring and G&G plunger/knock set. I'll try to install that tomorrow, along with my new G&G rubber set, and see if that helps out the FPS and consistency issues. They didn't have a gas-route spring there, so I may need to get that later as well (though the gas route seemed okay from what I felt).

 

 

I got a buyer for this Tanaka, and I'm considering getting a used KJW M700 and going the Air Rig route, since I could almost put it all together for the same price I'll get for this Tanaka.

 

I'll keep you guys posted.

 

Thanks again.

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So I installed the rubbers and the Magazine parts (haven't done the striker spring yet).

 

The gun is shooting up to snuff FPS wise, and the consistency and accuracy are both very good. I've been hitting a 1x1 foot square at about 100 feet, though once in a while I get a random flier from the hop up.

 

As an update though, I might be selling this tomorrow, and then I'll be on to a new project, possibly a CO2 rig. Thanks for all the help so far guys. The magazine upgrades were quite easy. I accidently installed the spring on the wrong side of the c-clip, but after I got that figured out, everything was very simple and made a big difference.

 

Thanks guys.

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