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TylerHemingway

Tanaka M700

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I'm not so sure about the barrel. If your buying the KA Hop-Up conversion kit, then you can only use VSR-10 barrels and rubbers. The link to the barrel is confusing since they state its for ALL M700 models, whilst I thought (correct me if I'm wrong) that the KJW M700 uses different barrels then the Tanaka models.

 

Basically if your installing the KA kit which is also on your list, ANY barrel with a VSR cut will do. 555mm is the minimum length you need and also the max length of most VSR barrels. Just buy a normal one, you won't need a "BULL" barrel since gas rifles don't (Or barely) vibrate when fired.

 

The KA kit is good. See text above.

 

I don't really know about the aluminum chamber though... If I had money to spare I would probably pick one up. But its not really a necessity. Id say, first get the basic upgrades. Then when everything works well, you can focus on the fine tweaking parts.

 

I would also get a NineBall Hop-Up rubber instead of the KA. I heard they work better.

 

I would also wait with the Knock arm and plunge set. The stock ones in my mag are still perfect after many shots. Same thing goes for the valve knocker.

Edit: Get the kit, I just found out its better then the original (Thanks rdjorge XD)

 

IMO the steel coking piece is pretty useless.

 

The rubber set is good. Since the rubber that contacts the gas route connector wears down pretty fast (At least in my case), however the 2 other pieces the kit comes with will be useless because you are using a different Hop-Up system now.

 

I have been advised to buy a new gas route connector spring, so it should also be good to pick it up.

 

You realize thats a VSR-10 outer barrel right? I don't have a darn clue if it will fit a Tanaka tho... Even if it would, it would not increase accuracy. Looks pretty nice though.

 

Are there any parts I am missing that I should upgrade or are there any parts I should improve on?
Get a steel impact plate for your magazine, especially if your getting a stronger striker spring. KM is a good brand for this.

 

If your NOT converting your gun to either CO2 or HPA, you should also get the KM custom valve for your magazine. Of course converting to HPA is one of the best upgrades for your gas sniper rifle.

 

This is all I can think of for now. Feel free to correct me on anything guys.

Edited by Alex553

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Alex you are right. That outer barrel won't work... Tyler, you can find a lot of information to read here on the tanaka sub-forum. Take your time and learn about the m700 before you buy one.

On the steel cocking piece. Some of them come with a little extra metal where it slides against the bolt, so it needs a little modification in order for it to work. Many people have bought and did not find a problem with it and others like myself had a good time with them! The idea behind the steel piece is when you replace the valve knocker with a steel one, it will cause more wear on the stock cocking piece (made of aluminum) and as it wears, it increases the distance between the two pieces which will affect fps.

Edited by rdjorge

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Thanks for the help. I plan on converting the mag to run on hpa. I already took a look at the topic about making an hpa rig.

 

EDIT: It will be a few months at the most before I actually have the money for all of this. I will be sure to read about the gun more and I will look at everything you mentioned above.

 

What did this guy do to get it up to 1000 fps?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLS76116jLA

 

Edited by Tyler Hemingway

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Thanks for the help. I plan on converting the mag to run on hpa. I already took a look at the topic about making an hpa rig.

 

EDIT: It will be a few months at the most before I actually have the money for all of this. I will be sure to read about the gun more and I will look at everything you mentioned above.

 

What did this guy do to get it up to 1000 fps?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLS76116jLA

 

750psi. Very high chance of things going BOOM.

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What is the highest safe psi? I play with people who don't set an fps limit so I want the highest fps that won't break anything. Also, where should I buy parts for the hpa rig?

 

EDIT: Where wold I get steel impact plate for the mags? ANd would it be worth it to get an extra mag or two and convert those to hpa?

Edited by Tyler Hemingway

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No, not 750psi. More like 200psi. Remember, you're getting 550fps out of 120-130psi out of a normal length barrel. Drop it to 100psi and you're in the low or mid 400's.

 

When you start pushing the pressure up that high you actually run into a small unintentional safety barrier. The rifle will cease to fire because the spring is not able to open the valve. The valve retracts downward into the magazine instead of upwards and has to fight the pressure to do it.

 

 

Oh and the steel cocking piece usually comes with the G&G Power pack which has the plungers, knock arms, etc for the magazine overhaul. You'll need to by the gas route spring separately though.

 

As far as buying extra mags, what's you average shot amount per game? I used to carry 3 small mags although I switched to a long mag with a short mag as a backup. Not often that a reload was necessary although I keep a few rounds in a dime bag ziplock. If you're converting to HPA/Co2 there isn't a point of keeping any for green gas/propane unless you think you'll have issues. If you're worried about high cost of 12gr should you decide to go target shooting then keep a larger 16oz tank handy.

Edited by Brainplay

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No, not 750psi. More like 200psi. Remember, you're getting 550fps out of 120-130psi out of a normal length barrel. Drop it to 100psi and you're in the low or mid 400's.

 

When you start pushing the pressure up that high you actually run into a small unintentional safety barrier. The rifle will cease to fire because the spring is not able to open the valve. The valve retracts downward into the magazine instead of upwards and has to fight the pressure to do it.

 

Thank you for your input. So what would be a safe psi taking into consideration that where I play doesn't have a fps limit and I don't want to break any parts or make it not able to fire.

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No, not 750psi. More like 200psi. Remember, you're getting 550fps out of 120-130psi out of a normal length barrel. Drop it to 100psi and you're in the low or mid 400's.

 

When you start pushing the pressure up that high you actually run into a small unintentional safety barrier. The rifle will cease to fire because the spring is not able to open the valve. The valve retracts downward into the magazine instead of upwards and has to fight the pressure to do it.

 

I agree with you Brainplay. The guy stated that he used 750 psi. I find it hard to believe. As I said, it is not safe at all.

 

The tanaka magazines were not even designed to run on propane they were designed to run on duster (japanese laws). That is why a lot of us have experienced swelling of the magazine. So you really should not use more than 100psi on a stock magazine.

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I agree with you Brainplay. The guy stated that he used 750 psi. I find it hard to believe. As I said, it is not safe at all.

 

The tanaka magazines were not even designed to run on propane they were designed to run on duster (japanese laws). That is why a lot of us have experienced swelling of the magazine. So you really should not use more than 100psi on a stock magazine.

100psi of what? HPA or propane? What would be a good psi to have on this (HPA)?

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I'm not so sure about the barrel. If your buying the KA Hop-Up conversion kit, then you can only use VSR-10 barrels and rubbers. The link to the barrel is confusing since they state its for ALL M700 models, whilst I thought (correct me if I'm wrong) that the KJW M700 uses different barrels then the Tanaka models.

 

Basically if your installing the KA kit which is also on your list, ANY barrel with a VSR cut will do. 555mm is the minimum length you need and also the max length of most VSR barrels. Just buy a normal one, you won't need a "BULL" barrel since gas rifles don't (Or barely) vibrate when fired.

 

The KA kit is good. See text above.

 

I don't really know about the aluminum chamber though... If I had money to spare I would probably pick one up. But its not really a necessity. Id say, first get the basic upgrades. Then when everything works well, you can focus on the fine tweaking parts.

 

I would also get a NineBall Hop-Up rubber instead of the KA. I heard they work better.

 

 

Actually, I was very curious about this as well. If I get the KA conversion chamber, what are my options as far as barrels go? After $80 for the chamber, I'm not sure I want to spend $100+ for the barrel if I can help it, since I'll need to buy the two together.

 

For a Tanaka M700, what's the barrel length I need to replace the stock one? Thanks for any info.

 

CJ

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Actually, I was very curious about this as well. If I get the KA conversion chamber, what are my options as far as barrels go? After $80 for the chamber, I'm not sure I want to spend $100+ for the barrel if I can help it, since I'll need to buy the two together.

 

For a Tanaka M700, what's the barrel length I need to replace the stock one? Thanks for any info.

 

CJ

Ive got a Prometheus 555mm 6.03 barrel, those are pretty good prise-quality wise. I have my old barrel lying around here but nothing to measure it with, sorry.

 

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Ive got a Prometheus 555mm 6.03 barrel, those are pretty good prise-quality wise. I have my old barrel lying around here but nothing to measure it with, sorry.

 

So any tightbore will fit the King Arms chamber? It's not a special cut or anything, like the Tanaka barrels seem to be?

 

 

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Edgi custom works will probably make you a custom barrel to fit you're stock hop and it will even be the right length, just ask for a stock length barrel and porting so you can use as much power as you want. I think the length on a kjw 700 (a clone-ish of the tanaka police 700) is 629mm, you can drill out the end cap to accommodate an extra few centimeters.

 

It might end up being cheaper than the whole vsr kit, and you get possibly the best barrel out there.

Edgi Custom

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Thanks to everyone for the help. What parts would "blow up" if the psi was to high? What is the highest psi you should have to be on the limit of breaking but not to the point where it is unsafe to you and the gun?

 

EDIT: How does this look for a final build?

 

 

http://www.airsoftatlanta.com/PDI_VSR_10_6...4mm_p/65267.htm

 

http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.ph...oducts_id=25742

 

http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.ph...oducts_id=28726

 

http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=5612

 

http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=6429

 

http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=6428

 

http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=6431

 

http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=6430

 

http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=6433

 

http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=6432

 

http://www.tokyo-model.com.hk/ecshop/goods.php?id=944

 

You do not need the impact plate. Read about the G&G knock arm and plunge set...

It is a close line between safe psi and dangerous psi... I have heard of ppl blowing up their mags. If you are lucky to find this Link in stock somewhere, you will be able to run higher pressures than the stock magazine. If you do not want any swelling on your magazine stay under 100psi...

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I have conflicting info from two people. I was told in an earlier post to get the plate and now I am told to not get it.

 

Was giving an option if you were on a tight budget. The steel impact plate and striker spring cost around $20. The powerpack which include the plunger replacement, spring, and knocker arms costs $60. If you're on a budget then $40 can mean a number of other more important upgrades. Ultimately you want the powerpack but if you're on a tight budget then going with the impact plate is still an option.

 

Other than the O-ring which is the new type of seal for the plunger arm, the pack doesn't replace any springs or other seals. I treat it more as a durability upgrade than anything else. The gas route and care or replacement of the valve are inherently more important to consistency.

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Was giving an option if you were on a tight budget. The steel impact plate and striker spring cost around $20. The powerpack which include the plunger replacement, spring, and knocker arms costs $60. If you're on a budget then $40 can mean a number of other more important upgrades. Ultimately you want the powerpack but if you're on a tight budget then going with the impact plate is still an option.

 

Other than the O-ring which is the new type of seal for the plunger arm, the pack doesn't replace any springs or other seals. I treat it more as a durability upgrade than anything else. The gas route and care or replacement of the valve are inherently more important to consistency.

 

Thank you for clarifying. I am on a "budget" but not to the point where $20 makes a difference.

EDIT: What parts should I buy for the replacement of the valve and gas route?

Edited by Tyler Hemingway

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Thank you for clarifying. I am on a "budget" but not to the point where $20 makes a difference.

EDIT: What parts should I buy for the replacement of the valve and gas route?

 

http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=6432

http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=6433

 

The valve doesn't go bad that often unless it's never been oiled before. If it does go bad you'll experience leaks from the gas route area. In that case you remove and replace the entire valve. As I said though, this is rarely needed.

 

http://www.dentrinityshop.com/pr_details.jsp?pid=5765

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http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=6432

http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=6433

 

The valve doesn't go bad that often unless it's never been oiled before. If it does go bad you'll experience leaks from the gas route area. In that case you remove and replace the entire valve. As I said though, this is rarely needed.

 

http://www.dentrinityshop.com/pr_details.jsp?pid=5765

 

Thank you. I had those parts picked already. I didn't know that they were for that though.

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