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G&G G2010 Info Thread

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I hope you guys realize that G&G is making a tri rail, it just hasn't come to the U.S. yet. I apologize if someone has already mentioned this.

It has been released, it just has yet to hit American stores. Regardless, I highly doubt it will be as cheap as it is at WGC right now. I'll wait to see, but I still doubt it.

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I have an issue with feeding all of a sudden. It started by just dry firing 1 to 2 bbs out of about 10, so I sprayed a little silicone in the hop up n shot half a 450rnd hi-cap and it gradually got worse until it seemed to be jammed. I cleared the barrel but didn't notice any bbs fall out. reloaded and it fired a bit in the middle of the game it stopped again. It's some kind of feeding issue. not I put in a mag it fires the first ball and stops. no bbs get jammed n the barrel, if I take out the mag and put it back it does the same thing. the mags work fine in other gun. I have changed the bucking, and lubed the hop-up, barrel was clean, and tried different mags. Anyone have any idea what it may be? Oh and the gun was working fine the weekend before.

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I have an issue with feeding all of a sudden. It started by just dry firing 1 to 2 bbs out of about 10, so I sprayed a little silicone in the hop up n shot half a 450rnd hi-cap and it gradually got worse until it seemed to be jammed. I cleared the barrel but didn't notice any bbs fall out. reloaded and it fired a bit in the middle of the game it stopped again. It's some kind of feeding issue. not I put in a mag it fires the first ball and stops. no bbs get jammed n the barrel, if I take out the mag and put it back it does the same thing. the mags work fine in other gun. I have changed the bucking, and lubed the hop-up, barrel was clean, and tried different mags. Anyone have any idea what it may be? Oh and the gun was working fine the weekend before.

After it stops shooting. Look into the mag well. See if you can see if the hop up has misaligned it self in some way. I'm willing to bet that it has become loose and is moving around, not allowing for bbs to feed through it or something. Though there are many possible causes to your problem.

 

Have you tried putting a spring on your hop up, pressing it into the gearbox?

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After it stops shooting. Look into the mag well. See if you can see if the hop up has misaligned it self in some way. I'm willing to bet that it has become loose and is moving around, not allowing for bbs to feed through it or something. Though there are many possible causes to your problem.

 

Have you tried putting a spring on your hop up, pressing it into the gearbox?

no I don't have a spring to put on the hop up but I can get one and try it. Last night after I wrote the post I was looking at the hop up for any signs of damage and noticed that the piece the hop up slides into had slight damage to the bottom left corner underneath and noticed that the piece was slightly twisted to the right. This is from sliding the upper receiver on with the never lose bolt not quite fully out-of-the-way. I adjusted it back and went to test it, however this wasn't a proble., I did discover that by hitting the bottom of the magazine between shots causes it to fire another round almost every time.

 

ok some how the air nozzle got inserted too far into the hop up and was causing the feeding issue.

Edited by Seth

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no I don't have a spring to put on the hop up but I can get one and try it. Last night after I wrote the post I was looking at the hop up for any signs of damage and noticed that the piece the hop up slides into had slight damage to the bottom left corner underneath and noticed that the piece was slightly twisted to the right. This is from sliding the upper receiver on with the never lose bolt not quite fully out-of-the-way. I adjusted it back and went to test it, however this wasn't a proble., I did discover that by hitting the bottom of the magazine between shots causes it to fire another round almost every time.

Have you tried a different mag? One that you know for a fact works?

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Have you tried a different mag? One that you know for a fact works?

Yes, I have tried two that have never had an issue feeding. I believe I have it figured out but I am still looking for a spring to put on my hop up. My brother has a G&G M4 that came without the hop up spring and he put one on and added 30fps.

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Apparently G&G fixed both the gearbox and the cutoff lever, and reinforced the buttplate (I sent an email asking them about them).

 

6266831608_dd41d2d5c2_b.jpg

 

 

6266831698_14b6479368_b.jpg

 

Interesting. How did they fix the butt plate? No pix?

 

Mine is different than some of the others I have seen where on mine, the lower part/lip of the rubber butt cannot flip up allowing it to slide in/out. It also has a removable metal shell within the butt. However, this design is pretty much impossible to use in conjunction with the metal shell. You have to swivel the plate back onto the gun using its side tabs with the shell removed. Otherwise with the metal shell, there is no give within the pad to allow you to articulate it back onto the gun. So unlike the real steel version and the older butt plates, it cannot slide on/off.

 

The shell seems to reinforce the butt plate and also keep the gearbox from moving which has lead to jams.

 

So curious if this is their new "fix" or if they have once again re-designed the butt plate.

Edited by Stevoh

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Interesting. How did they fix the butt plate? No pix?

 

Mine is different than some of the others I have seen where on mine, the lower part/lip of the rubber butt cannot flip up allowing it to slide in/out. It also has a removable metal shell within the butt. However, this design is pretty much impossible to use in conjunction with the metal shell. You have to swivel the plate back onto the gun using its side tabs with the shell removed. Otherwise with the metal shell, there is no give within the pad to allow you to articulate it back onto the gun. So unlike the real steel version and the older butt plates, it cannot slide on/off.

 

The shell seems to reinforce the butt plate and also keep the gearbox from moving which has lead to jams.

 

So curious if this is their new "fix" or if they have once again re-designed the butt plate.

 

I actually haven't had any problems with my buttplate besides the two rubber "tabs" that go into the grooves in the gun are wearing out. You are sliding it downwards right? Rather than prying it off?

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I actually haven't had any problems with my buttplate besides the two rubber "tabs" that go into the grooves in the gun are wearing out. You are sliding it downwards right? Rather than prying it off?

 

I cannot slide the plate on/off as the lower lip/ridge cannot be pulled foward/outward to allow inhibited movement. I have to swilvel or pry it off from the sides. The tabs you speak of are pretty robust on mine and these are where I start to remove and put it back on.

 

The plate is pretty reinforced it seems. The rubber is really stiff and it comes with a metal shell within it. Due to the dense rubber, like I say, the lips cannot be pulled outward like what I have seen on real steel and older butt pads. Even without the metal shell, the plate stays on the gun real well.

 

This is why I am curious if their fix is just what mine is or if they re-designed these things for a third time.

Edited by Stevoh

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I cannot slide the plate on/off as the lower lip/ridge cannot be pulled foward/outward to allow inhibited movement. I have to swilvel or pry it off from the sides. The tabs you speak of are pretty robust on mine and these are where I start to remove and put it back on.

 

The plate is pretty reinforced it seems. The rubber is really stiff and it comes with a metal shell within it. Due to the dense rubber, like I say, the lips cannot be pulled outward like what I have seen on real steel and older butt pads. Even without the metal shell, the plate stays on the gun real well.

 

This is why I am curious if their fix is just what mine is or if they re-designed these things for a third time.

 

It seems like mine must've been first gen, and you got 2nd?

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It seems like mine must've been first gen, and you got 2nd?

 

I guess so. When did you get yours? Mine is a Cybergun F2000 with trades. Got it like 3 mos ago which was the last one in stock. So I assume it was an early batch from G&G but still a 2nd gen.

 

Seems like the newer gen F2000 are pretty robust guns now. They can use un-modified mid caps now.

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I think you guys are gonna love this. They're producing a metal cylinder head now :D.

 

G-10-085

lol, they would do that right after I sent out my cylinder head to be machine made. Well, that will make things a little easier for people.

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I think you guys are gonna love this. They're producing a metal cylinder head now :D.

 

G-10-085

 

I went to the http://guay2.com website but could not find it. Where is it on the website please? Can it be ordered now?

 

Also, this is directed to everyone on the forum.

Saddly it is a newbie question :(

I opened my G2010 up and could not see how to remove the stock cylinder head from the cylinder.

Simply pulling at it didnt work. Is there a trick to it, when you are changing cylinders/heads?

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I went to the http://guay2.com website but could not find it. Where is it on the website please? Can it be ordered now?

 

Also, this is directed to everyone on the forum.

Saddly it is a newbie question :(

I opened my G2010 up and could not see how to remove the stock cylinder head from the cylinder.

Simply pulling at it didnt work. Is there a trick to it, when you are changing cylinders/heads?

For especially stuck cylinder heads, I often put the piston back in the cylinder, get a firm grasp of the cylinder itself, and then using a table, or just my hand, I attempt to push the piston completely through the cylinder, pushing the cylinder head out.

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This may sound like a stupid question, but what is the advantage of a metal cylinder head?

 

I just bought an F2k but I haven't received it yet, is the cylinder head different from that of other guns?

 

As far as I know, the f2000 cylinderhead is only for the f2000. I don't think we need to go past the obvious for the advantages. Metal is generally stronger than plastic (generally because potmetal is terrible)

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The G&G cylinder head is actually pretty nice, I believe it's made of nylon something or other, because it's a bit stronger than your normal ABS plastic.

 

It's different in that the air nozzle is in a different location. While most any v2 or v3 cylinder head will fit in the gun, the air nozzles will be too high, and won't fit into the hop up, thus the stock one is the only option. Or this new metal one, now that they have that option.

 

The reason metal cylinder heads are better than stock cylinder heads is because of compression. It's not that it can have two o-rings or something special for the piston to hit, it's the fact that a full metal cylinder head is one piece. Very often, stock cylinder heads eventually crack around the brass air port, causing major air leaks. If the whole thing is metal, it is impossible for this air leak to form, thus, more precise compression.

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I thought it accepted G&G midcaps?

 

Yeah, but those were very expensive if I remember correctly. I'm not sure whether the gearbox was an attempt to increase sales of their magazines, but either way, they've fixed every single problem I brought up (I think they're working on the pistonhead o-ring problem), and I am a happy camper.

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Since I can't edit my post, I must make a correction. After a few emails, it turns out that the pictured gearbox is actually a version 2 (at the time I took it as gen2 version 6), so the magazine compatibility was not fixed, but then again, most of us have already modified out magazines... All of the other new parts are confirmed.

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You mean a shorter pull? You can put some spacers on the rod just like you would a P90 if that's what you're asking.

 

I just took apart my gun, and I think the "bad feeling" is coming from the plastic-plastic contact between the trigger and the body. At some point I might try some metal shims to smooth things out. I tried some grease, and it helped, but it still doesn't feel smooth.

Edited by krap101

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I just bought one of these things, an man I love the way it feels. Planning to field it on Saturday, haven't gotten to test it yet as the usual range I check at was closed down.

 

I believe it's one of the newer versions, stamped "FN HERSTAL BELGIUM F2000 cal. 6 mm" on the side instead of G2010. The screw on the gearbox that prevents midcaps from seating properly is still there, I haven't opened it up proper to look at the cut off lever or other changes yet, waiting til after my warranty is up. Also, can't fully figure out how to remove it as the manual I received with it was -extremely- limited.

 

I'm intending to use this for some Lions Claws events later this year, and of course I need midcaps. I bought a DBOYS midcap with it just to test if it'd fit, and of course it did not. I demeled it down to fit, but I noticed while trying to break it in that it's constantly double stacking bbs and jamming. I'm fairly certain this is an issue with the magazine and not with the modification, as I don't see how sawing off the bit from the top could cause that.

 

I guess my main question is, to those who use this with midcaps, what brand do you find works best? I've heard MAG brand feeds fairly well, King Arms I've heard has issues on semi. I'm probably going to use semi a fair bit, so modifiable mags that feed well on semi would be great.

 

I appreciate any help you guys can provide!

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I just bought one of these things, an man I love the way it feels. Planning to field it on Saturday, haven't gotten to test it yet as the usual range I check at was closed down.

 

I believe it's one of the newer versions, stamped "FN HERSTAL BELGIUM F2000 cal. 6 mm" on the side instead of G2010. The screw on the gearbox that prevents midcaps from seating properly is still there, I haven't opened it up proper to look at the cut off lever or other changes yet, waiting til after my warranty is up. Also, can't fully figure out how to remove it as the manual I received with it was -extremely- limited.

 

I'm intending to use this for some Lions Claws events later this year, and of course I need midcaps. I bought a DBOYS midcap with it just to test if it'd fit, and of course it did not. I demeled it down to fit, but I noticed while trying to break it in that it's constantly double stacking bbs and jamming. I'm fairly certain this is an issue with the magazine and not with the modification, as I don't see how sawing off the bit from the top could cause that.

 

I guess my main question is, to those who use this with midcaps, what brand do you find works best? I've heard MAG brand feeds fairly well, King Arms I've heard has issues on semi. I'm probably going to use semi a fair bit, so modifiable mags that feed well on semi would be great.

 

I appreciate any help you guys can provide!

 

Mag mags feed well with the modification, and shorty pmags seat without any modification (I run with the 50 rounders).

 

You can take the gearbox out by loosening the 4 rearmost body screws, removing that plastic plate in the back with the 2 screws, and the gearbox will slide out (with a little bit a wiggling).

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Mag mags feed well with the modification, and shorty pmags seat without any modification (I run with the 50 rounders).

 

You can take the gearbox out by loosening the 4 rearmost body screws, removing that plastic plate in the back with the 2 screws, and the gearbox will slide out (with a little bit a wiggling).

 

Interesting! I never would have guessed short PMAGs, I'll have to pick one up to check it out. I bet they'd look better than the STANAGs sticking out, too.

 

Thanks for the tip on the gearbox, I'll take a look soon and see what I've got for a cutoff lever.

 

Any tips on the flashhider removal by chance? I have a Noveske FX3 I'd like to throw on, but I can't manage to take off the orange flashider... Removed set screw, boiled for 10 minutes, and got nothing. Normally I can boil flashhiders for 3 minutes and the glue comes loose, this one is ridiculous though!

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Interesting! I never would have guessed short PMAGs, I'll have to pick one up to check it out. I bet they'd look better than the STANAGs sticking out, too.

 

Thanks for the tip on the gearbox, I'll take a look soon and see what I've got for a cutoff lever.

 

Any tips on the flashhider removal by chance? I have a Noveske FX3 I'd like to throw on, but I can't manage to take off the orange flashider... Removed set screw, boiled for 10 minutes, and got nothing. Normally I can boil flashhiders for 3 minutes and the glue comes loose, this one is ridiculous though!

 

I don't remember having problems with mine... channel locks would make it easier if you haven't tried yet.

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I also have one of the newer F2000's with the new markings.

 

It has the fixed lever. It needs modified midcaps. But seriously, modying midcaps to fit takes me less than a minute, and when I say that, I mean < 60s, not 5min+.

Just cut the top part with a metal saw so that it look just like the stock G&G hicap. Be careful not to cut any screw in the process, but that's really, really easy and fast.

I use KA midcaps because they're cheap and easy to cut (plastic). Getting a matrix one from evike just to test tho.

 

I'm no expert but I was surprised at the build quality of the gearbox and gun overall. It's very nice. It's very quiet too. I also got the hunter optics, and it's pretty good as well (could be slightly bigger, but not really an issue).

 

The contacts are huge and while a mosfet make sense, I guess you'd have to fire it a lot before damaging them. I've one coming.

 

I'm not sure what accuracy to expect from such guns (again, I'm not really an expert) but on mine after I setup the sight/scope, at 15 meters I can see a ~5-8cm radius/groupping. It feels low compared to real guns but maybe that's good for airsoft. I've a couple of GBB's which are a little more accurate tho.

 

For the range, it goes further than I can see when I use .23g+tracer so I guess the FPS is ok. It seems to go to 100m+ (which is 300ft +) when I measure the distance with the GPS. I'm getting one of those thing to measure the fps/rof tho. Just haven't arrived yet.

 

The ROF of a 7.4V 25C lipo seems comparable to a 9.6mah 1400mah batt (that's about right I guess, I didn't measure how much amps the motor pull tho).

The ROF on a 11v 25C lipo is pretty good, and while I can't measure it yet, it "sounds" faster than most guns I see on youtube (except for crazy rof builds obviously).

 

I love the gun overall, and there's only a few things I'd like to "fix":

 

- getting a metal front sling handling thing

- getting a F2000 flash hider. I saw it on G&G website but their US store is closed and they don't give any date. I didn't find any other retailed for it? :(

- I'd like it to be more precise if possible, but I'm not certain how to do that or if that's feasible. I'd like <1cm grouping at 15m or so.. ;-) Aka I wouldn't care of "5% more accuracy", I want quite a huge accuracy boost .. :-)

- sometimes in semi-auto its not firing. if I switch to full auto it fires no problem (even if I fire in "semi auto" but with the switch on full auto, however that's called). Contacts are perfect, but I might have to take the gear box apart to understand how this is working (unless someone has a tip)

Edited by zobi

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I've received the fps counter thing (410fps &lt;AT&gt; .20gr)

Also the matrix metal midcap that is supposed to handle a zillion bbs:

- it doesn't need mod, so that's good for the ones who don't wanna mod, fits perfect

- the spring is crazy, pushing as many bbs as they say inside takes a lot of force (they say its normal, but I think its just a design error from whoever has chosen the spring)

- I get occasional misfeeds (probably due to the strong spring) (yes its lubed etc)

 

Overrall, the KA is better (cheaper, works perfect, etc) but it needs mod. The matrix probably works ok once you have left the spring compressed for 2 weeks, or changed it, etc.

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Hi guys,

I bought my g2010 a while ago and I am totally in love with this rifle....

So silent, powerful and accurate out of the box.....

 

But the time has come to turn it into the ultimate beast....

I am pretty new to AEG Tuning so I would like to ask you for your advice...

 

My aim would be getting as much accuracy as one can also with increased ROF....

 

So the question:

What upgrades should I get and from which manufacturers? I am looking only for top quality and price is not a big deal...

I would like to improve it over some time so what parts to replace first?

I would like to run it on Li-po with 170 spring...

 

Thanks in advance for your answers....

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I would like to run it on Li-po with 170 spring...

 

That's going to take some serious abuse. You will need to get some good quality torque-up gears and possibly a new motor- I'm not familiar enough with this motor to know how strong it is. You will also need to get shimming and your AOE perfect with some sorbo. With a 170, mousepad foam won't cut it. You can get sorbo from someone online or cut your own from a full sheet from McMaster. If you're looking for upgrades with no real price limit, go with a Prometheus barrel and r-hop it. You'll also need a harder bucking, like a Prometheus red (it doesn't have to be a prometheus, just an example). I'm not sure if an air seal nozzle is available for this gun or not, as I haven't read this entire thread lol, but it would be a good idea. You can always mod the stock one if you can't find a commercial one.

 

Basically, a 170 spring is going to give you a LOT of pressure, so ALL of your air seal components must fit together perfectly. Do all of the compression tests out there and all of the random tweaks that don't cost much. If you're running on full auto, you will be putting a TON of stress on your gearbox. It's absolutely an attainable goal, but it's a very high performance setup, so get all of the little things right BEFORE you just throw a massive spring in there.

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Meh, I finally opened the gearbox. My AOE was perfect out of the box. My compression was so-so.

 

Again, it's one of the new models so:

 

- piston head looks fine, but the oring is a little loose and that causes non-perfect compression. I moved it a bit around and that restored near-perfect compression. However I bet it'll move back in a bad position eventually, so I'm ordering a replacement for the piston head. the inner screw is very hard to unscrew.

 

- gears look very strong to me, but then again I'm a Newbie. Still I bet they can handle rather strong springs and rof. they're metal, and bushes are metal too.

 

- the inner cylinder (sorry if that's not the proper technical name) is in plastic as most are, I'm guessing that's what would get damaged over time, by the metal gears

 

- I can't measure the inner barrel perfectly but it seems to be 6.01 or 6.03. I guess someone with a more precise tool has measure it already and it's probably 6.03. which is fine.

 

- the air nozzle is also so-so as in, when its there my compression is far from perfect. I might put a tiny o-ring to fix that, as afaik no one knows of a nozzle that has the right size, and since I'm a Newbie, I'm not sure if I can get a random one and cut it to dimensions, etc. Maybe later.

 

Based on this:

 

- I'm getting a M150 spring because I want more FPS (I'm really okay with the ROF on 11v), and higher than that sounds risky for some internal parts. M150 will already use them more quickly of course. Aiming for ~500fps.

- I'm getting a higher torque motor because I've doubts the stock one will be able to pull the spring. I may be wrong (it seems just fine with the stock spring and all this gives me 410fps with so-so compression so..), but better safe than sorry.

- I'm getting a new piston head to resolve the "oring is too loose" issue although it's not the one from G&G (can't find it in the US, and I don't wanna wait 6 weeks for shipping)

 

The rest seems fine really. I will probably try to work on the hopup once I fully understood all the ins & outs, as it seems to me a lot of compression is lost through the hop up (probably what the R hop up mod is supposed to help with)

 

Also, after fixing and remounting all this I noticed that the accuracy is actually very good. with the scope (ive the hunter scope) I could hit a 10cm pipe at 20 meters every time, which, well, is pretty decent. Better than my 2 GBB guns for sure (TM px4 and WE dragon 7")

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The out-of-box quality of these guns are fantastic. I put a 6.03 tightbore &lt;AT&gt; 407mm's and it will hit a 2 inch pole consistantly at a measured 150 feet away. Not bad for an otherwise stock gun. I'll post some pictures up soon since I've done some aesthetic changes since I last fielded it. Definitely a favorite for sure, particularly with how quiet the gun is.

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