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Socom R700 weights

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So I got the Socom Gear R700 recently and I went around forums and youtube to research the pin removal guide. I infact went step by step and when I got to the cylinder, the pin that is suppose to be drilled or tapped out is not even there. The cylinder is completely blank with no pins whatsoever.

 

Any suggestions on how I could take off the cylinder head? :a-confused:

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The tool showed is what I used, and it is a total POS. The pins are too large and the metal bars with the pins have too much material to fit around the piston nozzle. I used a dremel to grind everything down to fit. Real PITA using that tool.

 

And the piston head is sealed with Locktite. I ended up throwing the cylinder in the freezer, pulling it out and wrenching on it with no luck, tossing it back in the freezer, etc. three or four times before it finally broke loose.

 

You could probably have more success putting the piston in a pot of boiling water for several minutes to loosen the Locktite.

 

Or taking it to a hydraulic shop and asking them to break it loose for you. Make sure you tell them there is Locktite on the threads so they know.

 

Once you get it free, the piston weights are held on by tiny Phillips screws that come off easily with the right screwdriver. I put teflon tape on the cylinder head seals to prevent the residual Locktite from sticking again, and to keep everything sealed.

Edited by 40oz

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And the piston head is sealed with Locktite. I ended up throwing the cylinder in the freezer, pulling it out and wrenching on it with no luck, tossing it back in the freezer, etc. three or four times before it finally broke loose.

 

You could probably have more success putting the piston in a pot of boiling water for several minutes to loosen the Locktite.

 

Would it help to freeze the cylinder for a while and then put it in pot of boiling water to crack the Locktite?

I've tried freezing it and then using the wrench and electrical tape but the tape won't stick to the piston head. Should I just use it without the tape?

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Would it help to freeze the cylinder for a while and then put it in pot of boiling water to crack the Locktite?

I've tried freezing it and then using the wrench and electrical tape but the tape won't stick to the piston head. Should I just use it without the tape?

 

 

Yeah, probably. Although I think heating it will be sufficient.

 

The reason I stuck it in the freezer is I thought shrinking the cylinder head would help. It wasn't as effective as I had hoped, but the head did eventually come loose.

 

I didn't know there was locktite on the threads. Had I known, I would have just boiled it first.

 

You should be able to let it cool down after boiling. The heat alone should do the job. But it might take a few boiling - freezing cycles before it comes easy enough to prevent damage to the parts.

 

Electrical tape won't stick very well to anything really hot or really cold. So you probably are going to have to wait until it gets to room temps before working on it if you are using tape to grip the nozzle. The head is brass, which is a lot softer than any steel pliers, so you can easily damage it if you don't use something to protect it.

Edited by 40oz

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What'd you use to unscrew it without messing up the brass?

 

I used the crappy tool in verisimilitude's post.

 

The hard part is finding one. Harbor Freight stocks them in their stores, but the pins are too big and there is not enough clearance for the nozzle. And it is weak, sloppy, and just not a good tool at all. But you can make it work.

 

Sears stocks better versions, as do a few other online retailers. They are called adjustable pin wrenches or adjustable "Face Spanner Wrench". You don't need an adjustable one if you can locate one with the right pin and spacing. Armstrongtool.com and Martintools.net distribute them, and you could probably email them to see if they have one the right size. The pin size is 1/8", and they are 5/8" apart. And you need 3/8" clearance between the pins for the nozzle.

 

Any machine shop that works on hydraulics probably has a suitable tool, and could probably break the head loose for $10. Otherwise you could spend ~$30-70 and buy a decent one. The issue is finding one with the right size pins and enough clearance for the nozzle.

 

I was able to grind the cheap Harbor Freight tool to fit with my dremel and a sandpaper wheel. It took less than an hour of grinding and testing to make it work. But be careful of the pins - you want them fatter at the ends so they don't want to slip out of the sockets, and you don't want the diameter too small.

 

An alternative tool could be made. Say a piece of hardwood, like oak or maple (vs. 2x4 pine). Drill two holes for the 1/8" drill bits to fit into the cylinder head sockets. Drill a hole to clear the nozzle. Then you'd have something you could get a hold on. A piece of 2" flooring or small piece of plain trim board would probably work. You could also make it out of steel or aluminum if you prefer.

Edited by 40oz

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