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AchilliesWar

My Tanaka M24 SWS upgrade thread

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This is a thread from my home forum. Thought it might get some better feed back and help here.

Note: I'm simply double posting to catch it up on here because its the only way to get around the pic limit.

 

Alright this thread is for the Tanaka M24 SWS build that I am doing. This will have reviews, installs, accuracy reports, and a lot of info over the course of time and whenever something changes or gets upgraded, I will post it here as well as pics as often as possible. I will also post links to other reviews and info threads that I have found.

 

          To start off, this rifle is no longer made, in fact the M24 PCS version is not only long out of production, its also becoming very rare to find used. This is to bad because this has to be one of the finest factory airsoft rifles ever built. Because of this I looked for an unmodified/lightly modified PCS version and found ONE. It wasn't even for sale anymore and I had to convince the person over two weeks to sell it me. All in all, I found myself lucky in procuring one in good condition. So lets start off on some general info for this rifle. What makes it so special? First off, Tanaka is the basis for the KJW M700p and the Bell M700p clones. The PCS bolt system is only copied in the Bell M700p version and has some very good benefits. The PCS system before it was banned, allowed the user to vary the FPS from around 350fps to 550 fps on Green gas with minimum fuss. The bolt also has a nozzle that can be replaced due to wear, or to allow the install of after-market VSR conversion chambers. This is also valuable to CO2 and HPA users, (even thought it is often overlooked), due to the fact that you have two methods of adjusting fps. The reason that this is important is that regulators on CO2/HPA rigs often have a "Sweet spot" where the variations in the regulator will be minimal. Therefore if you have a regualtor that likes to oporate at 115 psi, yet your fps is to high, you can back down the bolt to lessen the fps and still have your regulator operate at it's "sweet spot", and of course vice versa. More on this part later.....................

 

            The rifle I received came broken from an airsoft Ohio user, however  the parts that I was most concerned about were in good shape. I was told that it had several things already installed/included but the bbs would not exit the barrel. Once I inspected what I received it though, things became more complicated. First was the hop up, I has a 2roy vsr hop up conversion kit installed in it, how ever not every thing was there. The new nozzle was not installed nor included, niether was a small metal piece that acts as a nub. So that got ordered right away. The next thing that was noticed, was the inner barrel, and the silencer adapter. The inner barrel itself is less than a week old and is a Madbull Ver. 2 Black Python 650mm Tight Bore Barrel - PSG-1 Plus 6.03. First I am unsure if this will work with a VSR hop up, and it also sticks out of the outer barrel over three inches even with the silencer adapter installed. So order a G&G Heavy Outer Barrel that include a new chamber, new 6.04 TBB. A review for that will come after it arrives Wensday. The next problem are the mags/ trigger assembly. It "came" with a G&G power pack "installed", however they did not install/include the L shaped piece that goes inside the mag, so that has to be ordered too (need to sell some more stuff first).  A new trigger striker plate was also installed, however it is so far out of adjustment that if you fill the mag with gas, it will strike the magazines gas release and vent all the gas before you can even close the bolt. The only things that were installed correctly were: the steel cocking piece on the back of the bolt, and the small red rubber piece on the bottom of the bolt.

 

            Now onto stuff that is good and what I like about it. The receiver is in great shape and made out high quality steal, no wear or scratches and is not worn at all on the inside. The bolt assembly is an alloy, and has some slight marks from use, however, considering its four years old, its in great shape. The trigger guard is made out of steel and is so strong you can step on it and it does not bend or break. And lastly the stock, it is simply the best stock I have ever seen in the airsoft world. Its made from a textured, high density polymer that feels and has the same weight as my real steal Remington 700. The butt stock is adjustable out to five inches  for longer armed people and only has a slight wiggle when extended. It also features very precise molding so that there are no unnecessary gaps or voids. The only stock that might beat it is the CA M24, which is said to be even better, however, I do not own one, and would have to hold one to believe it.

 

           All in all I love this rifle and am blown away by the factory parts. Sadly I am also blown away by the stupidity off the previous installer that should have never touched it in the first place. Thats all for now, pics will be up this week before I mod it, along with reviews for the parts I am waiting on to be delivered.

 

OK the CNC Chamber Conversion Kit arrived today so this is starting. First off, the rifle itself. I apologize for the crappy pics, my camera took a crap today during a clients photo shoot and is being repaired so all I have is my android phone.

Here is the rifle itself, its rough, but there is a diamond in there some where.

IMG_20110516_203639.jpg

 

IMG_20110516_203154.jpg

 

WHY WHY WHY touch it when you don't know what you're doing. Amazingly the barrel is straight.

 

IMG_20110516_203550.jpg

 

This is the PCS bolt, all the scratches are simply cosmetic. the dial on the front is how you adjust after  you loosen a tiny hex screw. Oh yeah look, they forgot the nozzle, WTF WAS THE POINT?

 

IMG_20110516_203529.jpg

 

Here we have the components laid out. The real design flaw  is the chamber. Its plastic and often cracks, this one however is in perfect shape. But its still going away. The outer barrel is isolated from the inner barrel by way of an o-ring mounted on the black circular spacer. However when the G&G heavy barrel arrives, it will eliminate the following : black circular spacer, brass piece  (don't remember what its called, but it screws onto the plastic chamber), the plastic chamber and the outer barrel itself. It will also free float the outer barrel and the front barrel mounting screw is also eliminated.

 

IMG_20110516_205928.jpg

 

This is it a pic of how the hop up looked with the bolt open

 

IMG_20110516_203331.jpg

 

Its nice when airsoft companies actually take some pride in their product, this logo is found underneath the barrel inside the stock.

 

IMG_20110516_210026.jpg

 

I'll another post up in awhile covering the CNC chamber.

 

 

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Like I said double posting for the pics

 

 

Ok, these are the Hop up conversion chambers. The one on the left is a 2Roy, the one the right is the Spartan/ King Arms kit. First thing that you will notice is how many things are missing from the 2Roy kit (due to the previous owner). The 2Roy kit is no longer made, and some people think that they are the same kit. After examining the two chambers, you can tell that the Spartan kit was just a copied 2Roy kit and not copied very well. The important thing for me is that the nozzle is well made and fits very snuggly into the 2Roy hop up chamber, (although this will make aligning it while installing it in the bolt a tedious process and thats why I'm waiting on the new chamber with the G&G kit) The large metal square is the nub (yes it has a metal nub), the smaller metal piece is a spacer to hold the VSR bucking firmly in place on the side of the chamber, the long piece is obviously the nozzle and the black piece that is kind of cut out is the install tool for the nozzle. A nice part about having two kits is the option to mix and match. For instance the metal nub from the Spartan kit is slightly to big to fit in the 2Roy chamber, however using a small file I managed to to make it fit and in doing so, virtually eliminated any play which will cut down on variations in shots. The other metal spacer that is meant to help hold the VSR bucking in place is loose in the Spartan chamber, however it fits perfectly into the 2Roy chamber.

 

IMG_20110516_210547.jpg

 

Here are the hop up chambers side by side, you can see on the right that the Spartan that the slot for the metal nub is not well machined. It is not centered,in fact the chamber is so close to the right side I'm concerned that if a bad bb went through it, it could crack due to the fact the wall is so thin from the machining.

 

IMG_20110516_210647.jpg

 

 

This is the nozzle end of the chamber, now while yes the Spartan version is smoothed out, its also larger which could lead to air leaks, which it in turn would lead to consistency problems from shot to shot.

 

IMG_20110516_210806.jpg

 

Here is the last pic of the chamber for this review. You can see the machining errors on the Spartan kit on the right where the opening for the VSR bucking goes to far forward. This shows the only redeming thing about the Spartan chamber, the anodizing process is rougher which makes it a tighter fit into the plastic chamber, although this could make it difficult when installing into the metal chamber.

 

IMG_20110516_211152.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Alright more parts so another update. This is my heavy barrel as it was packed, nice of them to put so much packaging material in there. To bad they didn't put it around the parts, cause thats kinda pointless. Oh well, pictures of boxes for you.

 

IMG_20110518_094253.jpg

 

Purple nine ball bucking

IMG_20110518_094531.jpg

 

G&G heavy barrel

IMG_20110518_094538.jpg

 

Comparison pics of the stock m24 barrel and the G&G heavy barrel

IMG_20110518_195603.jpg

IMG_20110518_195556.jpg

 

Crappy pic of me trying to show the inside of the barrel. The barrel is solid and acts as a full length inner barrel spacer.

IMG_20110518_195510.jpg

 

After examining the contents and doing some test fitting, they're were two problems found right away, one the 2Roy hop up wouldn't fit in the G&G chamber, and second the stock needed to be sanded down to allow it to free float. So I had to do pull out my smallest file and get to work on the chamber, this only took a little while and could have taken less time if I wasn't being so careful. The next thing I did was take my dremel and very carefully sand the inside of the stock. This did take some time but turned out rather well. I will say if this was a KJW I would be concerned about the receiver cracking, cause the barrel weighs more than the stock even with the adjustable butt pad.

 

Pic of my work on the inside of the stock

IMG_20110518_195450.jpg

 

And here's the result, the barrel is now completely free floating.

IMG_20110518_201929.jpg

 

The next thing I did was finally install the new nozzle and check alignment with the hop up. First all I did was pull out the old nozzle with a pair of pliers, then took a hammer and the supplied install tool and tapped it in. I was surprised that I got it on the first try. A lot of people complain about misaligning it.

IMG_20110518_202224.jpg

 

new nozzle installed

IMG_20110518_202927.jpg

 

Now it actually pushes the bb into the hop up chamber. YAY!!!

IMG_20110518_203316.jpg

 

Now onto the bad news, the kit comes with a 650mm  G&G 6.04 Tanaka style barrel, so this can't work with my vsr hop up. But, because of where the nub goes, the barrel actually shorter than VSR inner barrels, so my barrel sticks out about 40mm. So I also have to replace this inner barrel which is basically brand new. And I can't use PDI barrel due to the fact that they are to thick. (outer diameter) . So.......................... crap. Need to order a new TBB.

 

This is the madbull barrel, not fitting..................

IMG_20110518_201954.jpg

 

And  a quick pic while its all together.

IMG_20110518_203306.jpg

 

Now I'm at the part of the build where I'm out of money and have to hopefully sell some stuff so I can finish it. Things left at this point:

1. Fix trigger sear so it will not vent gas just by inserting the mag

2. Take the play out of the trigger so it does not move side to side

3. Figure out what Madbull 590mm black python version2 barrel will work with it (hop up wise) and buy it.

4. Buy two G&G power packs for mags

5. Buy one more mag

6. Buy and build my HPA rig (already have the tank)

7. Buy new scope and Harris style bipod

8. Paint it

9. Find someplace that has Madbull .40 bbs in stock

10. Assemble everything, tweak, test shoot, and tweak some more.

11. Take to a game and friggin shoot someone

 

So yeah, alot more to do and really want it done. If anyone has any clue on if a Ver. 2 Black Python 590mm Tight Bore Barrel - PSG-1 will work, let me know. I'm unsure because I had the 650mm plus version and don't need another spare barrel laying around. Now I'm off to take it all apart so the new bucking doesn't conform to the inner barrel. FML.

Edited by AchilliesWar

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Great review man... well done.

Too bad I've lost faith on Tanakas... They break down very easy when you try to mess around with them!!

I have the M700 AICS pre-ban and the M700p pre-ban and I know... and I'm not refering to the crappy part91 but on the whole gun!!!

 

Wolf

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Is that an endcap on the heavy barrel that can be screwed off?

When you first look at it you would think you could. However now matter what I can't get it off. I think that its just there from the manufacturing process. Its actually no big deal to me cause I enjoy having a short rifle. However I do wish it would fit the 650mm barrel madbull barrel I have for it.

 

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When you first look at it you would think you could. However now matter what I can't get it off. I think that its just there from the manufacturing process. Its actually no big deal to me cause I enjoy having a short rifle. However I do wish it would fit the 650mm barrel madbull barrel I have for it.

 

It is in fact an end cap with threads underneath. It just binds up really well.

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Well, my options are this right now.... Cut down teh EDGI barrel (which I don't want to do)

Try and sell it so that I can buy a correct sized one.

or somehow fit thread adapter to the barrel and slap on the echo 1 force recon suppressor, but Im not sure how to go about attaching a threaded apapter to a steel barrel without chance of ruining it...and insights?

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I took a copper pipe, probably 1", but measures a little more than that. I then made a spacer to fit over the muzzle so the pipe slides snug over the spacer and stops on the barrel about 4 inches down, due to taper. You can use the pipe to house junk to create a porting like effect, so it looks like a muffler on the inside. TA-DA

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It doesnt lol. I can see how you can believe theres one from the pic they provide but to clear it up in case anyone is going to buy the barrel, the fluted does not. I have it, here are pics.

 

http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/GandG-He...el-t196161.html

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Thanks man for clearing that out. I thought it has an end cap that you can remove it and install a thread adapter.

 

Wolf

I wish T_T. Would have saved me from my current problem.....fixating a threaded adapter so that I can use a suppressor to cover up my protruding barrel.... :/ I don't want to use a PVC pipe because there is a lot of empty space within the pipe that the BB might accidentally hit, Plus I think a suppressor will protect the inner barrel batter because it has a tighter housing..

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I wish T_T. Would have saved me from my current problem.....fixating a threaded adapter so that I can use a suppressor to cover up my protruding barrel.... :/ I don't want to use a PVC pipe because there is a lot of empty space within the pipe that the BB might accidentally hit, Plus I think a suppressor will protect the inner barrel batter because it has a tighter housing..

 

It would be easier to get the non fluted barrel and find someone to flute it for you.

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Well, I might just sell my fluted one and get the solid one, But first I would like to request photo evidence of the endcap being able to screw off and putting on a threaded adapter from anyone who has those... Or else, id be wasting more money again T_T. please help if u can.... Or at least help me figure out a way to put a threaded adapter onto my current lol

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Well, I might just sell my fluted one and get the solid one, But first I would like to request photo evidence of the endcap being able to screw off and putting on a threaded adapter from anyone who has those... Or else, id be wasting more money again T_T. please help if u can.... Or at least help me figure out a way to put a threaded adapter onto my current lol

If you end up wanting to do that let me know before you purchase one.

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There's no adapter needed on the "tango" barrel. The endcap is just regular 14mm CCW threaded.

 

1d4cb572203b4340a5ec5ea0dfedc576.Large.jpg

 

That's a heavy barrel with a Bravo flash hider on a G&G G96.

 

Edit: Oh, I should point out you will want to be careful threading aluminum flash hiders/barrel extensions on there. They will bind EXTREMELY easily and good luck getting it off. I literally screwed one on with two fingers until it stopped. It took 4 people to get it off.

Edited by XavierMace

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There's no adapter needed on the "tango" barrel. The endcap is just regular 14mm CCW threaded.

 

1d4cb572203b4340a5ec5ea0dfedc576.Large.jpg

 

That's a heavy barrel with a Bravo flash hider on a G&G G96.

 

Edit: Oh, I should point out you will want to be careful threading aluminum flash hiders/barrel extensions on there. They will bind EXTREMELY easily and good luck getting it off. I literally screwed one on with two fingers until it stopped. It took 4 people to get it off.

 

Great. Thanks. Now I just need to find a place with it in stock thats not over priced....unless anyone wants to trade lol.

 

O And this is what I'll be slapping on

 

http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=8137

Edited by Aznspartan

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There's no adapter needed on the "tango" barrel. The endcap is just regular 14mm CCW threaded.

 

1d4cb572203b4340a5ec5ea0dfedc576.Large.jpg

 

That's a heavy barrel with a Bravo flash hider on a G&G G96.

 

Edit: Oh, I should point out you will want to be careful threading aluminum flash hiders/barrel extensions on there. They will bind EXTREMELY easily and good luck getting it off. I literally screwed one on with two fingers until it stopped. It took 4 people to get it off.

Xavier, do me a favor please. Would you take some more pics of that from afew different angles and one a little more close up please. Or if you really want to, would you just put it in your m24 or even one of the R700 stocks. It would really help me out. Thanks.

Edited by AchilliesWar

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Xavier, do me a favor please. Would you take some more pics of that from afew different angles and one a little more close up please. Or if you really want to, would you just put it in your m24 or even one of the R700 stocks. It would really help me out. Thanks.

 

I'm still at work right now, but I'm not really going to have time to do that for a couple of days. I do already have some additional photos uploaded on my site though.

 

http://photos.xaviermace.com/GalleryThumbn...?gallery=794374

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I'm still at work right now, but I'm not really going to have time to do that for a couple of days. I do already have some additional photos uploaded on my site though.

 

http://photos.xaviermace.com/GalleryThumbn...?gallery=794374

By the way, have you done any experimentation with the metal nub? do most people run just the metal nub? I'm kinda thinking of modding one to try it out (since I have two) or trying something underneath it. Any thoughts or suggestions?

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I'm also interested in the fluted version of the heavy barrel , I've just received a second Tanaka M700 but this is the police version so I 'll definitely going to change the outer barrel. This is going to be my project gun.

I have one question how can I attach a silencer adapter to the AICS that's fitted with the VSR conversion and a 554mm PDI barrel?

 

 

Wolf

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Yes it's the stock.

 

Wolf

Well. You might already or already not know this, but you can buy a threaded adapter for the endcap. I think the diameter of the hole is the standard inner barrel OD so you barrel will be able to pop right out the end as opposed to the stock tanaka end cap where the hole is a smaller diameter. Again. I think that is what you are asking and "I think" the threaded adapters will work lol... Hope that helps.

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Well. You might already or already not know this, but you can buy a threaded adapter for the endcap. I think the diameter of the hole is the standard inner barrel OD so you barrel will be able to pop right out the end as opposed to the stock tanaka end cap where the hole is a smaller diameter. Again. I think that is what you are asking and "I think" the threaded adapters will work lol... Hope that helps.

 

I'm sorry but I have the KA vsr conversion hop up and a 554mm PDI barrel. When I bought it I had a thread adapter to it but now the barrel comes short and it doesn't reach the thread adapter. my question is are there any thread adapters for or are there any solutions to it.

 

Wolf

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I'm sorry but I have the KA vsr conversion hop up and a 554mm PDI barrel. When I bought it I had a thread adapter to it but now the barrel comes short and it doesn't reach the thread adapter. my question is are there any thread adapters for or are there any solutions to it.

 

Wolf

Im afraid I cannot help you there :/

You can get a longer vsr barrel like me. I just ordered another EDGI barrel (correct size) so yea.

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   Alright guys another update. I have received the bravo flash hider, EDGI 650mm barrel and the Bioval .40 bbs. However due to the fact that I did not want to paint the rifle with all installed parts I decided to paint it first. So the bb and barrel will be done sometime in the next few days after I allow at least 24 hours for the paint to fully cure.The scope and bi pod are just temporary and will be replaced and redone. So lets get started.

 

So first up is the Bravo flash hider, the thing that surprised me the most was the fact that is wasn't grey, but rather black and made out of steel rather than pot metal. This was not what I expected and was a rather pleasant surprise. They were also kind enough to slather it in silicon oil (and I mean SLATHER) to prevent it from rusting. There was a report that the thread were so tight that once it was installed it would be next to impossible to take off. However, after examining it I discovered that there was still machining scrap still in it. So I simply hosed it with some brake clean and it goes on and off with no problem.

IMG_20110603_152047.jpg

 

The next problem that I ran into was the alignment with the barrel. With it fully tightened down it was off by more that 3/4 of a turn, and when loosened, so that it aligned correctly, it had about a 1/8 of an inch gap between it and the outer barrel.

IMG_20110603_152058.jpg

 

So I had to go to ace hardware anyway and while I was there I noticed that they had oil drain pan plug gaskets. After looking a few over I found one that fit almost perfect. The only problem with it was that it was a little to thick. Now yes there gaskets do compress when use for there intended purpose, however the force required to do it on my application would have most likely broken the threaded part off the end of the barrel, so I simply soaked it in motor oil and smashed it with a hammer till it compressed enough and viola, instant win. (yeah we're getting technical now)

 

IMG_20110603_152819.jpg

 

The next part was just rigging a simple mount for the bi-pod so I can set it down without getting dirt in the barrel. Like I said this will be replaced.

 

IMG_20110603_152117.jpg

 

The next thing was the painting and this will take you about four hours when done right. So here is the process.

The first thing you need to do is remove ALL internal parts, now I know that some people will say "but if  you don't aim the paint can at it, it really won't affect it" or "the paint won't get into anywhere important, so it really doesn't matter". Sorry, thats just lazy BS. I worked in a body shop for three and half years, over spray manages to get into everything! Why after spending all your money on costly and even rare upgrades would you go and get paint on them just to ruin them. Plus if you paint things like the magwell, bolt or trigger, it will just flake off and get into your barrel/ hop up and make those really nice parts be worth crap. Seriously take the stuff out and do it right.

 

The next part is to  tape all those internal holes, and also tape over any scope knobs, lenses ect. Take your time and use a razor to make nice clean edges.

IMG_20110603_161131.jpg

 

IMG_20110603_161139.jpg

 

Now this pic covers all the stuff you will need for that actual painting process, however, I know that there is a can of mineral spirits in there, just use brake clean to clean your parts due to the fact that it does not leave a residue and make fish eyes. (forgot to snap a pic after I remembered that)

 

IMG_20110603_161122.jpg

 

The next thing is to hang your parts so that you get a nice base coat and keeps parts from sticking together.

 

IMG_20110603_161645.jpg

 

Now I know in the other pic there is a can of camo Krylon, however, it really kinda sucks and doesn't cover or look right. So I ended up using a Krylon satin tan instead and it ended up looking much better.

 

IMG_20110603_163106.jpg

 

Now since we have to handle the rifle, allow about an hour for it to dry, just to keep it from smudging, then reassemble the rifle (but keep that tape on) to do the striping.

 

IMG_20110603_175959.jpg

 

Now comes the stripes. I used camo brown and just a little green for flavor. Try to make it as random as possible.

 

IMG_20110603_180653.jpg

 

Now usually that is the last step for people, however, I'm going for a "ghost" camo look and one that is usually thought to be more effective. So simply grab some various plants, place them on or hover them above the rifle while you make quick passes over them with black. The closer the plant is to the rifle, the crisper the image.

 

IMG_20110603_181858.jpg

 

IMG_20110603_181852.jpg

 

And there you go, all done. Just make sure to leave it awhile and come back and look ever it once more, I did a little more touch up but didn't snap a photo of it. The last thing is to dissemble the rifle, take off the tape, look for any over spray in the receiver and put it all back together. Due to the humidity the paint is taking mine awhile to cure, so I'm just gonna do that Sunday. I'll have pics up of that when its all together. (FOR THE FIRST TIME!)

 

IMG_20110603_181844.jpg

 

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Ok stayed up till three and just got done with this. As of now, the RIFLE is done.  Meaning that the internals are done and installed. I will try to get a propane accuracy test done for Khazzy before he leaves.

 

The night started off by laying out all the parts in front of me and finishing up a few details before the final assembly was started. And let me say this, I currently own, A DB custom, PDI, Madbull and now an Edgi barrel. The EDGI is the winner hands down as far as build quality, even though its a brass barrel. Its thicker than the DB, has nicer porting and machining edges than PDI or Madbull. I know that they are expensive, but in my opinion, worth it.  

 

IMG_20110605_000550.jpg

 

The next thing I did was wip out my dremal, grab a blue POLISHING tip and made the flat metal nub into more of a concave type nub. To be honest, this took a long time and was very painful. Yes I said painful, because the only way to really hold onto the nub was with my fingers. So not only did this burn my fingers as the nub got hot, it also made me bleed when I slipped with the dremel. Luckily, I was a mechanic and later a body guy, so my hands are pretty use to this sort of thing. I cleaned the blood off before I took the pic.

 

IMG_20110605_011856.jpg

 

Next up was the trigger, had to lube the contact point where the striker moves along the brass guide. (one drop is all it takes. I also took this pic to show the similarities between the Tanaka and the real 700's trigger.

 

IMG_20110605_000618.jpg

 

One thing I wanted to point out is the cut out on the Edgi vsr barrel. Now I know that I was led to believe that you could use a psg1 barrel, however it wouldn't really help you. You see, the cut out is very small on the psg1 style and barely allow the bucking to enter the chamber, so this is rather useless, however the vsr barrel is wider, deeper and allows more off the bucking to enter the barrel.

 

IMG_20110605_011950.jpg

 

Just a really quick pic of what the internal nub looks like in the Nineball bucking. with the psg1 barrel it would really have hindered the performance of the bucking.  

 

IMG_20110605_012110.jpg

 

Now came the first F*%& up of the night. the EDGI barrel would not fit through the chamber ( the chamber that holds the hop up chamber) This is due to a lip caused by the process of the "chroming" they do to the chamber, so out came the dremal and quick polish and she slipped right in.

 

IMG_20110605_012718.jpg

 

Here she is before going into the outer barrel. I would like to point out that the inner barrel clearance to the outer barrel clearance CAN NOT be any tighter. the inner actually kept "sicking" while it was going in. I had to stop, back it up, and VERY gently "wiggle" it to get it in

IMG_20110605_012958.jpg

 

And then all off a sudden, it wouldn't wiggle in anymore. When I looked into the problem, I discovered that the new bravo muzzle brake did not allow the inner barrel to enter it. (the whole point of me getting it)

 

IMG_20110605_013244.jpg

 

Now I'm a patient person, however, at two in morning, realizing that the one time I didn't test fit something has now bit me twice, I can get a little "upset". So I plugged in the cordless drill to charged and ran to Walmart, at 2:15 am. After grabbing the new drill bit (and some delicious Taco Bell) I came home to discover that the battery in the charger is the bad one that I need to take back and get replaced. At this point I just couldn't take it,even though I hate going to bed with a project hanging, I went to bed. (this is why my dad use to find me sleeping under the Supra TT in the morning)

 

So today I took the GOOD battery, and went back to work.  I finished installing everything with with flash hider off, and went out to the garage. Fist thing up was clamping it down to the table because I had to drill right next to the threads without damaging them. I had to drill it so that the inner chamber moved up to the middle of the smaller circular holes at the 11 and 1 position on the flash hider.

 

IMG_20110605_104512.jpg

 

After a little while I ended up getting it perfect without harming the threads and keeping it centered. I did however muck up the paint job on the flash hider, due to the fact that brake clean was once again used to clean it up. I will say, this muzzle brake is made of good quality steal, very hard to drill through, but did not make the bit catch. (which can be caused by impurities in the metal)

 

IMG_20110605_105734.jpg

 

So after a quick repaint of the muzzle brake (didn't turn out as well as the first) I put it on, took it out in the grass and snapped some quick pics for you guys.

 

IMG_20110605_112311.jpg

 

IMG_20110605_112512.jpg

 

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So now that the rifle is done internally, all that is left is the hpa rig and a few other details. the list is below, but it will be awhile before I am able to get them done. But like I said int the beginning, I'll try to do an accuracy report with it running on propane. I also did install a power pack in the mag but didn't take pics, I'll just doe that when I tap the mag for hpa.

 

1. Fix trigger sear so it will not vent gas just by inserting the mag

2. Take the play out of the trigger so it does not move side to side

3. Figure out what Madbull 590mm black python version2 barrel will work with it (hop up wise) and buy it. Bought an EDGI 650mm barrel and a new muzzle brake.

4. Buy one more G&G power pack

5. Buy one more mag ( a friend is sending me one)

6. Buy and build my HPA rig (already have the tank)

7. Buy new scope and Harris style bipod

8. Paint it

9. Find someplace that has Madbull .40 bbs in stock Went with the Bioval .40

10. Assemble everything, tweak, test shoot, and tweak some more. Stage one testing is beginning.

11. Take to a game and friggin shoot someone

Edited by AchilliesWar

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