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AchilliesWar

My Tanaka M24 SWS upgrade thread

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This was my first test shooting, not the one I am speaking about below, the new vid be posted up later.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cJAHdGVdE_4

 

 

 

OK another update. Last night I disassembled, cleaned and modified the rifle further. First I polished and ground the nozzle so the inside of the nozzle was more smooth (still can do more to it), then I polished the outside of the nozzle and got rid of a small lip and the texture on the surface that was left from machining. This helps airflow, the seal to the bucking, and stopped it from occasionally ejecting a BB when cycling the bolt (just like a RS). Second, I reoriented the bucking and aligned it a little better. Third and most important I made a new nub, This is a simple square nub, with no concave for the BB and can not move side to side AT ALL.

 

Today at 730 pm at 66 degrees I finished another shooting test with some interesting results and a theory. What I have noticed  is that I can get some really odd shoots that normally I would discount as fliers or bad BBS. however, I think I figured something out. I decided to hand load every single shot and shoot at the same place every time and see what I got. It was nothing short of a major change. What I KNOW is that the Bioval .40  BBS are soft, too soft. They are physically damaged by loading them in the mag and then pushed out of the mag with the nozzle. I think this is also made worse by the fact that the spring is VERY strong in the mag and puts to much pressure on the BB. Therefore it takes more force to push the BB out of the mag and into the chamber.

 

The other part I did was put in the G&G striker spring and closed the PCs bolt back to 80 percent (in the original video I think I had it at 100 percent). I did this because what the PCS bolt actually is, is a flow control valve, not a pressure regulator. By making it take longer for the gas to go through the bolt, it gives the gas more time to "normalize" and therefore results in smoother, more consistent airflow. (kind of like the old EDGI heavy pistons for the VSR) When I convert it to hpa, I believe that a higher pressure, lower flow, will make it more accurate.

 

FPS changes that propane and green gas are notorious for are not the major factor in missed shots. Its my belief that its the liquid/condensation whatever, that is formed when the gas is released is the cause. When realeased, the moisture is then transferred onto the BB and makes the BB rotate of its axis causing it to curve or become unstable. Out of twelve shots, 6 were in a notable vertical pattern, 5 went where ever, and one went over the target (first one shot, I've noticed this happens often when don't wait long enough to shoot after filling the mag) So we are not going to count the first one. If we discount the most odd shot I have a 6 inch grouping, if we count it, 8 1/4 inches. If we discount all 5 odd shots, I have a three inch grouping.

 

What does this tell us other than the need for testing with an hpa rig? That one, Bioval .40 are out of the game, moving on to SGM. Two that possibly moving to hpa not for the fps consistency, but rather for the lack of moisture, may yield the highest results (kind of how springs are so accurate.) And last that ........................................I just want it done. Pic is below, vid will go up sometime tonight.

 

IMG_20110609_193453.jpg

Edited by AchilliesWar

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This was my first test shooting, not the one I am speaking about below, the new vid be posted up later.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cJAHdGVdE_4

 

 

 

OK another update. Last night I disassembled, cleaned and modified the rifle further. First I polished and ground the nozzle so the inside of the nozzle was more smooth (still can do more to it), then I polished the outside of the nozzle and got rid of a small lip and the texture on the surface that was left from machining. This helps airflow, the seal to the bucking, and stopped it from occasionally ejecting a BB when cycling the bolt (just like a RS). Second, I reoriented the bucking and aligned it a little better. Third and most important I made a new nub, This is a simple square nub, with no concave for the BB and can not move side to side AT ALL.

 

Today at 730 pm at 66 degrees I finished another shooting test with some interesting results and a theory. What I have noticed  is that I can get some really odd shoots that normally I would discount as fliers or bad BBS. however, I think I figured something out. I decided to hand load every single shot and shoot at the same place every time and see what I got. It was nothing short of a major change. What I KNOW is that the Bioval .40  BBS are soft, too soft. They are physically damaged by loading them in the mag and then pushed out of the mag with the nozzle. I think this is also made worse by the fact that the spring is VERY strong in the mag and puts to much pressure on the BB. Therefore it takes more force to push the BB out of the mag and into the chamber.

 

The other part I did was put in the G&G striker spring and closed the PCs bolt back to 80 percent (in the original video I think I had it at 100 percent). I did this because what the PCS bolt actually is, is a flow control valve, not a pressure regulator. By making it take longer for the gas to go through the bolt, it gives the gas more time to "normalize" and therefore results in smoother, more consistent airflow. (kind of like the old EDGI heavy pistons for the VSR) When I convert it to hpa, I believe that a higher pressure, lower flow, will make it more accurate.

 

FPS changes that propane and green gas are notorious for are not the major factor in missed shots. Its my belief that its the liquid/condensation whatever, that is formed when the gas is released is the cause. When realeased, the moisture is then transferred onto the BB and makes the BB rotate of its axis causing it to curve or become unstable. Out of twelve shots, 6 were in a notable vertical pattern, 5 went where ever, and one went over the target (first one shot, I've noticed this happens often when don't wait long enough to shoot after filling the mag) So we are not going to count the first one. If we discount the most odd shot I have a 6 inch grouping, if we count it, 8 1/4 inches. If we discount all 5 odd shots, I have a three inch grouping.

 

What does this tell us other than the need for testing with an hpa rig? That one, Bioval .40 are out of the game, moving on to SGM. Two that possibly moving to hpa not for the fps consistency, but rather for the lack of moisture, may yield the highest results (kind of how springs are so accurate.) And last that ........................................I just want it done. Pic is below, vid will go up sometime tonight.

 

My Tanaka's were the reason I stopped using green gas whenever possible and went with straight propane. The mixture of green gas was designed with GBB's in mind which require far more lubrication. Green gas is simply over lubricating bolt action guns. In addition, I've always found 80% open to be the sweet spot for the PCS.

 

In regards to your testing, those grouping should be better than that assuming there were no weather issues or anything. I mean 110 feet is pretty close. What kind of FPS variance are you getting right now?

Edited by XavierMace

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My Tanaka's were the reason I stopped using green gas whenever possible and went with straight propane. The mixture of green gas was designed with GBB's in mind which require far more lubrication. Green gas is simply over lubricating bolt action guns. In addition, I've always found 80% open to be the sweet spot for the PCS.

 

In regards to your testing, those grouping should be better than that assuming there were no weather issues or anything. I mean 110 feet is pretty close. What kind of FPS variance are you getting right now?

I have no idea on fps due to the fact that I do not have a chrono. The only indicator I have is that over 80% of the shots have enough power to go through the target, and then through both sides of the cardboard box. I only use propane it in and use very little silicon oil to lube the parts. (oil does not go into the mag) Really hoping that when I finally can make the switch from propane to hpa it helps with some problems.

Video of me shooting at the about target.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3mZAqkYSqi4

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I have no idea on fps due to the fact that I do not have a chrono. The only indicator I have is that over 80% of the shots have enough power to go through the target, and then through both sides of the cardboard box. I only use propane it in and use very little silicon oil to lube the parts. (oil does not go into the mag) Really hoping that when I finally can make the switch from propane to hpa it helps with some problems.

Video of me shooting at the about target.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3mZAqkYSqi4

 

You really need to get a chrono as checking your FPS consistency does play a part when trying to determine your maximum effective range. While there's obviously other factors to range, there does come a point where your gun simply needs more power to get the BB out there.

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The other part I did was put in the G&G striker spring and closed the PCs bolt back to 80 percent (in the original video I think I had it at 100 percent). I did this because what the PCS bolt actually is, is a flow control valve, not a pressure regulator. By making it take longer for the gas to go through the bolt, it gives the gas more time to "normalize" and therefore results in smoother, more consistent airflow. (kind of like the old EDGI heavy pistons for the VSR) When I convert it to hpa, I believe that a higher pressure, lower flow, will make it more accurate.

 

 

Sorta yes, sorta no. It's really a choke valve rather than flow control. You can only push so much gas through a certain sized hole. The amount of pressure needed to push more gas through the hole is exponential so the tighter it goes, the larger and larger you'll have to increase the pressure. If say you increased the fps by 20 by adding 5psi, the next 20fps may take 10psi depending on the hole (numbers are for example only). The PCS wasn't created to smooth out spikes and ebbs from pressure variations but it was a side benefit. With an HPA system, there isn't really a need for such an item unless you're using an old, worn, or poor quality regulator. Most guys will open the PCS to 90%-100% since the variations, shot to shot, are smaller than what the PCS was able to provide. It's not going to hurt it if you run at 80% but you aren't going to really gain anything out of it either except needing to ramp up to a higher pressure to reach your legal fps limits. I always wondered if there was any back pressure that would try to escape from between the gas route and bolt seal connection but there's not way to test that.

 

The bolt also has a nozzle that can be replaced due to wear, or to allow the install of after-market VSR conversion chambers. This is also valuable to CO2 and HPA users, (even thought it is often overlooked), due to the fact that you have two methods of adjusting fps. The reason that this is important is that regulators on CO2/HPA rigs often have a "Sweet spot" where the variations in the regulator will be minimal. Therefore if you have a regualtor that likes to oporate at 115 psi, yet your fps is to high, you can back down the bolt to lessen the fps and still have your regulator operate at it's "sweet spot", and of course vice versa. More on this part later.....................

 

Several things effect regulators and their output. Break in is often the ones airsofters deal with the most. Brand new springs come from the factory newly hardened and tempered. Their crystalline structures still have plenty of variation and while they'll bend to inch-lbs within a ballpark figure, they aren't "precise". Companies that make precision regulators for industrial purposes spend lots of money to calibrate their regulators by running them through a series of pressure test over and over again until the springs "settle". As the crystalline structure settles, the variation in bending strength stays very constant. This is somewhat related to what people will know as work hardening where the crystal lattice is effected. Paintball regulators do not get the benefit of this testing so breaking in a regulator is up to the user. Until the springs or spring pack in a regulator is "broken in" the regulator may have large variations.

 

Older regulators like the Palmers Stabilizer used small spring packs which make break in easier but are much more susceptible to variation after breaking in. In other words, if a "sweet spot" does develop, it will be with these poppet style valves. Meanwhile newer regulators like the Custom Products or Hyperline series use beefy washer springs for heavy duty use and take much longer to break in but offer greater volume of air flow and a much higher level of precision to the point of almost no variation. These don't really get sweet spots.

 

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I decided to hand load every single shot and shoot at the same place every time and see what I got. It was nothing short of a major change. What I KNOW is that the Bioval .40 BBS are soft, too soft. They are physically damaged by loading them in the mag and then pushed out of the mag with the nozzle. I think this is also made worse by the fact that the spring is VERY strong in the mag and puts to much pressure on the BB. Therefore it takes more force to push the BB out of the mag and into the chamber.

 

Oh, one thing I forgot to mention earlier. Dented BB's might not be due to a heavy spring in the mag. The cutouts inside the feed lips can sometimes be sharp enough to gouge the bb's while doing fast reloads. Some mags might do this and other might not. Chamber a few bb's and see if you feel any real resistance as they're stripped from the feed lips to the chamber. Blow out the bb's and check for gouge marks. If so, you might need to take some polishing compound to the feed lips. I used an old fashioned pencil and cut down the eraser on one of my short mags which was gouging the bb's.

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Ok its been awhile another update. First I didn't take as many pics of all the little things I did so I apologize for that. First little thing I did was I took apart the bolt (for the billionth time) and made a shim. Basically the tanaka bolt separate into two pieces and there is a female end and a male end. When you slide them back together two little Allen screws hold it together. This basically allows a little flex in bolt, So I simply made a spacer for the inside of the bolt. Now there is no flex in the bolt. This basically help consistency because the hammer is striking the striker plate in the same place every time.

 

The next thing I did was shim the hop up chamber up. Basically the nozzle was straight, however the Hop up chamber has some vertical play, and the nozzle was sitting to high in bucking, this would have cut the bucking eventually and plus it puts more air at the top of the BB which tries to cancel out the backspin of the hop up on the BB. So that was a pain to fix but is done now. I also added an o-ring to the front of the barrel which makes all the gas exit in the second stage of the muzzle brake. (the muzzle brake has three different stages.

 

Now we go onto the HPA rig. This wasn't hard to build, however part selection was a pain. First I took the mag completely apart, yes everything was removed, and then added paper shop towels into the small crevices to make the clean up easier.

 

IMG_20110705_165209.jpg

 

After that I simply clamped it in between two pieces of wood and marked where I wanted to drill

 

IMG_20110705_165320.jpg

 

Then using a 21/64 drill bit and some silicon oil I drilled a hole for the tap. Go slow and do not apply a lot of pressure on the drill, let the bit do the work. People often use an 11/32 drill bit for this, however, this is not what you are actually suppose to use. I use Irwin taps for home and when I was a mechanic, they're great taps and tell you what size drill bit to use right on the tap. But some people still like to use the wrong drill bit, however gas mags are expensive (and mine aren't made anymore) so if people want to use the wrong one, I guess they know who to blame when they mess up.

 

IMG_20110705_165539.jpg

 

After that, use a 1/8 NPT tap. When using a tap you must do it correctly to get nice threads. Turn 1/4 CW, then 1/3 CCW, then preload the tap (go back to where you were before yo did the CCW 1/3 turn) and then another 1/4 CW turn. The reason you do this is so that your never cutting for more than a quarter turn, and the 1/3 CCW turn back allows the excess metal to fall out and it helps clean the cut.

 

Now since I forgot to take pics I'm just going to explain my rig as a whole. the Hpa tank (not the big one, that's just there for size comparison) is a Ninja paintball 3000psi 13cu tank. It then feeds into the JT ASA (on/off valve), it then goes through a 1/8 the brass tube into a 90 degree elbow, that goes into a CP regulator (with a 0-300 psi spring pack). It has a 0-200 CP gauge on it (this is for my outlet pressure) and then goes into another ASA (off my old spyder) and hooks up to my coiled hose that has a quick disconnect on it. I still need to install a slide check (on off valve) that goes before the quick disconnect. The slide check is needed for mag changes, otherwise I have to reload the same mag.

 

IMG_20110711_163303.jpg

 

The good thing about this tank is that it is EXTREMELY small, so it can fit in my condor radio pouch with no problem and the Ninja paintball tank regs are simply awesome. The bad thing about it is that shoot about 50 shots and it went from 2900psi to 2100 psi. So I'm probably looking at only 140-200 shots with it before it has to be refilled. I don't shoot more than that in a game, but it still makes me nervous. I also don't have an exact idea of how many shots because its shooting at 92 psi and I don't have a chronograph to measure the fps. I really wasn't able to do any accuracy test because I wasted to long to be able to track the bb. So that will have to wait, but that's probably gonna hold off till I can borrow a chronograph. But I think I'm pretty happy with it.

 

IMG_20110711_163238.jpg

 

I also have an experimental barrel and hop up bucking being sent to me from a friend that I'm gonna try out, plus one more mag. So that will be fun to play with. I'll try to do an accuracy test soon.

 

And since people keep asking me how much, here's an idea.

Tanaka m24 broken 425 Done

G&G heavy barrel kit 138 Done

Nine ball bucking 20 Done

KA hop up conversion 70 Done

Paint 45 Done

Edgi inner barrel about 150 Done

Bravo flash hider about 20 Done

BBs about 15 Done

Extra Tanaka magazine 55 Done

G&G power pack (extra) 20 Done

Hpa Rig Done

Regulator 60 Done

Remote 40 Done

Guage 20 Done

Fittings 25 Done

Tank 60 Done

Misc 18 Done

Total 1181 (not including shipping or my time or diy mods) And I have about $160 dollers in free stuff that I either got with the rifle or through other sources.

 

Plus I still need a few more things and I swear I'm forgetting things

 

I would like to thank all the many people that have helped and me with this rifle. Although it is not done, I'm getting to the point where its getting down to details and very small tuning issues. On this forum a thank you to XavierMace, Brainplay and aznspartan and many others. I'll keep updating whenever something note worthy comes along.

 

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Gratz man. Im still having trouble with mine haha. Im thinking that my trigger system is just worn out and the sear and other parts arent working right.

 

Take it apart, take photos and send them to me. If you are REALLY frustrated with it, take it off and send it to me. For you I won't charge labor, just pay for shipping both ways and any parts it needs.

 

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New video up on my going over everything I've done and some chrono results, and also WHY I did some of the things that I did.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ugFz2qoWBIE

Edited by AchilliesWar

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BUT NOW FOR AN EPIC DISCOVERY!!!!

If you are going to build an HPA rig for any airsoft rifle BUY A NINJA HPA TANK!!! Why for do you ask? Simple, not only are the hand made and hand tuned right here in the USA, BUT, they are adjustable. Yep, in a matter of five minutes you can take you hpa reg from 850psi, down to 500 psi!!! Now no, that's not like there SLP reg which goes down to 275psi (55 dollars more). But just that drop in pressure of 350psi, takes ENORMOUS amounts of strain off your inline reg. Making consistency raise dramatically. The only thing that sucks is now I have to wait till Monday to get it filled and reset my Low pressure reg back to 550 fps

 

Why am I so excited and enthralled by this? Simple, back in my baller days, I had to shell out at least 150 bones for a good preset tank/reg. Then, I had to give my airsmith about 80 bucks to reset the psi. So this is pretty epic for me, especially since I didn't know that when I bought it, I just got lucky. So yeah, 60 bucks with tax for the Ninja tank with reg=EPIC WIN!!!

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BUT NOW FOR AN EPIC DISCOVERY!!!!

If you are going to build an HPA rig for any airsoft rifle BUY A NINJA HPA TANK!!!

 

So yeah, 60 bucks with tax for the Ninja tank with reg=EPIC WIN!!!

 

Thats great to hear that you are successful with them. I bought 2 from a recommendation from my brother (avid paintballer) for my M40a3 a couple months back. Unfortunately I have not gotten a chance to hook them up yet, but I am very excited. They seem extremely nice. The price and size is hard to beat.

Edited by airsoftglen

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Thats great to hear that you are successful with them. I bought 2 from a recommendation from my brother (avid paintballer) for my M40a3 a couple months back. Unfortunately I have not gotten a chance to hook them up yet, but I am very excited. They seem extremely nice. The price and size is hard to beat.

 

Here's how to adjust the psi on the tank man, just please make sure THAT ALL AIR IS OUT OF THE TANK. It could cause serious harm to you if you didn't.

 

 

 

And no, that's not me or my voice.

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Oh I know how to use em, I just havent tried using them yet. Gotta find a place in my area to fill them. I think there is a scuba shop near me that might do it. How much do you usually pay for a filling?

 

Also, I noticed with your rig you have multiple 10rd mags. I just have a tapped 30rd long mag but I am tempted to tap more since I have spare male fittings.

Do you have a shut off valve for switching in between mags?

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Oh I know how to use em, I just havent tried using them yet. Gotta find a place in my area to fill them. I think there is a scuba shop near me that might do it. How much do you usually pay for a filling?

 

Also, I noticed with your rig you have multiple 10rd mags. I just have a tapped 30rd long mag but I am tempted to tap more since I have spare male fittings.

Do you have a shut off valve for switching in between mags?

 

For filling, most paintball shops charge me about $3.50 total. With scuba shops I have no idea, I doubt it would be much.

 

For fittings you have two options, they make quick disconnect fittings that close when they are taken off, the other one is a slide check. Right now I have neither, that's just becuase I have some more to do to the rifle itself, so my money keeps getting drained with that. However next week I'm going to finally install a slide check.

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Oh I know how to use em, I just havent tried using them yet. Gotta find a place in my area to fill them. I think there is a scuba shop near me that might do it. How much do you usually pay for a filling?

 

Also, I noticed with your rig you have multiple 10rd mags. I just have a tapped 30rd long mag but I am tempted to tap more since I have spare male fittings.

Do you have a shut off valve for switching in between mags?

 

For filling, most paintball shops charge me about $3.50 total. With scuba shops I have no idea, I doubt it would be much.

 

For fittings you have two options, they make quick disconnect fittings that close when they are taken off, the other one is a slide check. Right now I have neither, that's just becuase I have some more to do to the rifle itself, so my money keeps getting drained with that. However next week I'm going to finally install a slide check.

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Haha keep fightin the struggle! It gets done eventually.

 

Where did you find slide checks? Does it attach to just a regular coiled hose paintball rig?

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Alright today I went out to tune the rifle to the new ammo, .29 SGM's, and to finally do some long range shooting. At this point, its coming down to fine tuning, tweaking, and all the small forgotten details. This is a step that I personally believe is simply overlooked or just forgotten. I will say that a lip on the airseal part of the bucking was damaged from a crappy bioval .40, so that is getting replaced with another nineball bucking.

 

So I actually lowered my fps to 538fps due to the simple fact that this ammo enjoys a slightly lower FPS and really shows that BB weight, CAN'T beat quality ammo. I really don't know why I ever went away from SGM's, they simply are the best bb's I have ever used. I really think I spent more time chasing "ghost problems" with the rifle that were simply caused by the craptastic bioval .40. The reduction in variances simply beat any argument against the price. I am planning on stocking up on them come Sunday just because I have yet to see better. I also took away a lot of hop up and have an amazing flat trajectory. The bbs raise only about 1 1/2 ft and fall so that at 8o yards POA is POI. So now onto the pics.

 

All shooting was done, kneeling (due to my swivel bi-pod not getting here yet) with the crappy scope (replacement is on its way). It does look like I'm way above  the target, however in the kneeling position, I'm actually level with it. Plus I'm standing about six feet back up on a little rise by the road.

 

Shooting position

 

IMG_20110810_195936.jpg

 

View from behind the target, with me standing on a retaining wall brick.

 

IMG_20110810_195831.jpg

 

Final hit box with my hand covering one hit (sorry), it was there for size reference. 9/10 hits at 80 YARDS!!! And that's kneeling!!!

 

80yardtanakatarget.jpg

 

The reason there is no video with this post is because I am saving that for my final video. That will be with the new scope, bi-pod, laying prone to eliminate any variances from me, just showing the rifles capability. I am giving you guys the chance now to put how you want me to do that video. It will be done at 80, 90 and yes, 100 yards. Do you want a two cam video? For instance one done behind me shooting, with one a few feet in front of the target showing the hits ect. This is your chance to say how you want that final video done, the only thing I can't do, is fire it over a chrono, due to me not owning one, I have just been borrowing one from a hell of good player.

 

I will say this too, this true to me at least, in bolt action rifles, tighter tolerances, smaller barrels with larger bb's works for this. This is a 6.01mm barrel with a 5.97-5.98mm projectile with VERY little hop up. I hate it when people say "this is the best part". No its more this combo of parts, with this type of airsoft rifle, firing this projectile work the best. It simply is a matter of finding the right combo for your application.

 

 

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Yo achilles. I fixed my trigger problem. Swapped it with w KJW trigger system xD. My only problem now is that the air nozzlegets stuck in the bucking, so the bolt is really hard to pull out. Should I shorten the nozzle or polish the outside of it?

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Yo achilles. I fixed my trigger problem. Swapped it with w KJW trigger system xD. My only problem now is that the air nozzlegets stuck in the bucking, so the bolt is really hard to pull out. Should I shorten the nozzle or polish the outside of it?

 

Hmmm, what version of kit do you have? 2roy, King Arms, Spartan and what bucking? Just curious.

 

First, put some grease and apply it to the nozzle, then LIGHTLY push the bolt forward to where it just starts touch the bucking (not all the way) then pull it out and examine the nozzle and bucking/chamber to see where its touching. This is about the only way to see where your interference fit issue is happening.

 

Second, take your nozzle tool, separate the two parts of the bolt and tap the nozzle with the supplied tool and make sure its fully seated and straight.

 

Third, with the bolt disassembled and with rubber piece removed, polish it just be careful not to make a gouge in the metal (yes you can hurt it with just a polishing tip or polishing compound). After that, see what you get and make sure to fully clean the bolt when you're done. Dawn concentrated dish soap does wonders.(also good for cleaning buckings)

 

I am VERY hesitant to advise you to shorten the nozzle, cause you can take metal away, but you can't put it back.

 

Let me know how it works out, and if you still have a problem.

Edited by AchilliesWar

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Hmmm, what version of kit do you have? 2roy, King Arms, Spartan and what bucking? Just curious.

 

First, put some grease and apply it to the nozzle, then LIGHTLY push the bolt forward to where it just starts touch the bucking (not all the way) then pull it out and examine the nozzle and bucking/chamber to see where its touching. This is about the only way to see where your interference fit issue is happening.

 

Second, take your nozzle tool, separate the two parts of the bolt and tap the nozzle with the supplied tool and make sure its fully seated and straight.

 

Third, with the bolt disassembled and with rubber piece removed, polish it just be careful not to make a gouge in the metal (yes you can hurt it with just a polishing tip or polishing compound). After that, see what you get and make sure to fully clean the bolt when you're done. Dawn concentrated dish soap does wonders.(also good for cleaning buckings)

 

I am VERY hesitant to advise you to shorten the nozzle, cause you can take metal away, but you can't put it back.

 

Let me know how it works out, and if you still have a problem.

 

I just bought the spartan hop up conversion kit, king arms hard buckings king arms air nozzel, g&g rubber set, did I go wrong with buying the spartan kit? also what tight bore did you finally decide on. I know earlier in the post you had a madbull but were changing that. also the madbull is a 6.03 do you recommend a tighter inner diameter

 

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Hmmm, what version of kit do you have? 2roy, King Arms, Spartan and what bucking? Just curious.

 

First, put some grease and apply it to the nozzle, then LIGHTLY push the bolt forward to where it just starts touch the bucking (not all the way) then pull it out and examine the nozzle and bucking/chamber to see where its touching. This is about the only way to see where your interference fit issue is happening.

 

Second, take your nozzle tool, separate the two parts of the bolt and tap the nozzle with the supplied tool and make sure its fully seated and straight.

 

Third, with the bolt disassembled and with rubber piece removed, polish it just be careful not to make a gouge in the metal (yes you can hurt it with just a polishing tip or polishing compound). After that, see what you get and make sure to fully clean the bolt when you're done. Dawn concentrated dish soap does wonders.(also good for cleaning buckings)

 

I am VERY hesitant to advise you to shorten the nozzle, cause you can take metal away, but you can't put it back.

 

Let me know how it works out, and if you still have a problem.

 

King arms kit with king arms bucking.

 

And ok, I 'll probably try that.

 

 

EDIT

Just noticed the Version 2 nozzle has a smaller OD for im guessing the end of the nozzle that goes into the bucking. Maybe this is the solution?

 

http://www.airsoftglobal.com/shop/index.ph...roducts_id=5794

Edited by Aznspartan

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King arms kit with king arms bucking.

 

And ok, I 'll probably try that.

 

 

EDIT

Just noticed the Version 2 nozzle has a smaller OD for im guessing the end of the nozzle that goes into the bucking. Maybe this is the solution?

 

http://www.airsoftglobal.com/shop/index.ph...roducts_id=5794

 

No, that is for use with the stock hop up not our conversion kits. One other thing you may need to do also is shim your king arms chamber inside the chrome chamber, mine made the 2ROY chamber sit low which made my nozzle sit to high in the bucking.

 

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No, that is for use with the stock hop up not our conversion kits. One other thing you may need to do also is shim your king arms chamber inside the chrome chamber, mine made the 2ROY chamber sit low which made my nozzle sit to high in the bucking.

so what tight bore are you using with your 2roy chamber?

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did he order that streight from ed? or were ive been trying to get a hold of one for a very long time but can track one down, thats why ive been here trying to figure out what to do haha

 

I ordered it from ed, but then sold the barrel to him hahaha

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I ordered it from ed, but then sold the barrel to him hahaha

what was the priceing on it? also I herd shipping was a lot as well. Also I orderd the spartan vsr-10 cnversion kit got it in today and it has a nozzel, and I also orderd the king arms version 2 nozzel is this the same part? which one is better?

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Alright I said it in the beginning and I'll say it again. I am keeping all info on my rifle here so its easier to find for other people. I've had people call this thread the definitive guide to the Tanaka 700 series and that's why I keep reviving it.

 

Anyway, so what have I done now to it now? Well the first thing I did was replace the Nineball bucking that was mucked up. This is probably one of the worst and best demonstrations of things I preach. I knew it was getting a little funny and had a spare, yet I neglected to replace it before OP Yellow jacket. During the OP it started to hook the round left every other shot. I spent my day cursing myself for this and occasionally trying to guess when it would do it. Eventually I gave up on guessing when it would do it and just shot, observed and reloaded and shot again as soon as I saw it start to hook. I'm glad I did this, because that game I got my longest confirmed hit because I simply knew what my bb's should do, and stopped trying to guess when a random event would happen. However at the same time I know how many shots I missed because of this and still feel like I let the Tan team down that day. Anyway picture of the old bucking.

 

_MG_0913.jpg

 

The next thing I did was I purchased two QD scope mounts from Moses as well as a clone Leupold Mark 4 4X10 scope. This scope is nitrogen filled and has a working parallax adjustment knob. One thing that worked out almost perfectly were the scope mounts. My rail was about 13 deg. canted to left and so were the scope mounts. So by mounting them reversed it made my scope mount inline and level with the barrel. Then I took the rail off and machined it so that its -15 degrees on the front. What this does is make is so that at 100ft, the bb will impact at 1 3/4 mils up. Then at about 210 ft the bb will hit back on the cross hairs. Is this a little overkill? Yep, however this is still my favorite position to play, so I have no problem going a little nuts. And not to sound arrogant, but I believe it is because of all the little things I do to this rifle, as well as how much I shoot it, are the things that allow me to reach out so much further than other people with bolt actions.

 

_MG_0877.jpg

 

After that I took some foam and camo gorilla tape and made two cheek pads. One it taped to the rifle and the other half pad is taped to the Pantac Multicam butt-stock pad. This fixed my cheek weld problem where when I brought the rifle up to shoot, my eye would not be inline with the scope.

 

_MG_0882.jpg

 

I have also done some mods/tweaks to the HPA system after using it on the Polar Star that will keep almost all FPS variations to nearly nothing. I don't know if I posted this either but I also put on a RS quick folding Harris tilting bi-pod. I love this bi-pod and it is more than durable and well built. Its so easy to adjust the preload on the tilt and is nice to know that when I use it as a front grip while standing I don't have to worry about it breaking.

 

_MG_0891.jpg

 

Keep an eye out because I'm not done with this thing yet. I still am going to step up to a 30rd mag, and mount an anit-cant on my scope. After that I will either mount it in a A-4 stock (RS) or keep the M24 stock and glass bed the receiver. As always if you have any questions just ask.

 

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