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CMDR.CARNAGE

Evike screw up / review. (lots a pix )

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This will be a small rant and a review of what I got from Evike when I ordered my L96. When I ordered my L96 it was labled as the Shadow Ops sniper, when I read this I associated the picture of the UTG on the site page as what I was getting.Unfortunatley this wasnt what I recieved. After going back to the site page and reading some more I noticed some wording in the description I didnt catch the first time.

 

(link) http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/start-new-topic-f87.html

 

This is what it says...

 

Confused by all the different bolt action APS2 / Shadow Op. / Type96 Sniper rifles out there and want to get the best? We define best based on performance, accuracy, and part availability, magazine availability and upgrade possibility. Evike.com have tested all brand / repackaged brand to find you the best model money can buy under $300. We found all the best re-packaged to all be OEM by WELL. To aide your research, they are often labeled TSD, UTG, MB01, MB03, Bravo with different boxes but all made at WELL. Here at Evike.com, we also made it your choice of "just the rifle", "with scope", "with bipod" or "with scope and bipod" making the choices yours!

Did we mention that this rifle is the "newest version" because you are buying from Evike.com? The only retailer that can guarantee this in the USA. Tons of upgrade parts, accessories and spare magazines all available here at Evike.com.

 

Notice how it says often labled as TSD UTG MB01 etc.. The picture is of the UTG, I don't know if they mislabled this or what the deal is. I got a Bravo MK98 which is identical to what I have seen of the UTG except for one thing, it has a fluted barrel. I planned on getting the PDI fluted barrel for it, so they saved me 170 bux. I still cant decide if this is a good thing or a bad thing.

 

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The box it came in was beat up and was just enough to hold the gun. It wasnt the big pretty box I have seen in many UTG unboxings on youtube.

 

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I also got the bipod which was and optional acessory that is standard with the UTG. The bipod is total crap, it will not stay in the locked position. The locking surface is so worn down its as if someone has repeatedly forced it closed without using the unlock buttons.

 

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The tri rail adapter that it comes with is nice but it wobbles, a little tape on the mounting post helps alot.

After dissasembling the gun I noticed that the internals were identical to the UTG from everything I have seen of it.

 

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Since the internals seem to be the usual type 96 guts I would assume all the upgrade parts will fit without a problem, I may be wrong.

 

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The plastic spring guide and piston seem sturdy but Im not sure just how sturdy. The piston also has the small divit in it as seen in an upgrade post here.

One of the first upgrades I plan on doing is installing the UTG upgrade kit. Hopefully the trigger mechanism can handle it. The trigger itself is wobbly but the

internals have some metal parts. I havent taken it apart yet but the sear on top is metal.

 

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The piston head is tapered, I have seen some pix of UTG heads that are flat so Im not sure if all of them are this way. I guess it depends on which one you get.

 

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The bolt mechanism and the cylinder are solid metal parts. The only bad thing I can see on the bolt is the thick black paint or w/e it is makes some of the parts bind on each other.

The parts seem very precise and the paint fills the small spaces needed for movement. I have put about 1000 rounds thru it so far and the paint has worn off in some spots significantly.

 

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I highly recomend the UTG armored 3x9x40 illuminated scope. Very easy to adjust and includes 2 batteries. The batteries are easy to install and the adjustment knobs don't require a flat head screw driver or a quarter. Made of brass and very smooth they make zeroing easy. It also has adjustments for bightness. My problem is zeroing is being a pain due to the fact that I cant get more than 2 shots in the same place. I am doing test with MATRIX bb's going from .25's to .40's. The 25's are blazing fast and I cant see them, that and they are black (derp) I got them for my 2 other guns. The .28's are fast and reasonably straight but even the slightest wind blows them all over. The .30's seem to do much better but drop off faster. The .40's are dead on but fall out about 80ft or so, this due to the power of the stock spring.

 

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The inner barrel is brass and when I first got the gun I tapped on the barrel with my fist and could clearly hear the inner rattling inside. When I took it apart and saw what was inside dissapointment was more than what I saw. It had one freaking spacer in it and it wasnt even solid. Its made out of some kind of soft foam and wasnt even round shaped. It looked as tho it was stuffed in there at random.

 

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Edited by CMDR.CARNAGE

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PART 2.

 

 

I had made a barrel spacer out of necessity just to hold the middle of it up, all I had was paper towels and blue painters tape. Yes I could have made spacers out of the tape but I don't think that it would be as solid as I would have liked.

 

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The next day I went and got some gorilla tape, this stuff is amazingly strong. I placed spaces about an inch or so apart because when I tapped on the barrel I could hear the inner barrel rattling around. I wanted to eliminate as much of that as possible. The barrel is also tapered it gets smaller going away from the bolt. I cant see it with my eyes but when putting the spacers in I noticed they were getting progressivly bigger. I could feel it when sliding the barrel in and out.

 

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I also noticed that the hop up chamber was a little loose so a small square of tape was applied to one side, it made a huge difference in fit.

 

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There was also this " thing" that was on one side when I put the 2 halves of the gun together. I don't know what it is or what it does but it cradles the barrel and is close to the mag well.

 

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The mags pop out with a fair amount of force when released and reloading is a breeze with the included speed loader. Only holds about 30 or so rounds but I got a few extra mags.

You can with some practice reload this gun fairly quickly without unsholdering the weapon. I can get off about ten or so shots in a few seconds. I think it puts a strain on the botl mech and the clinder. Mine has some scarring from pulling it to one side so much. Overall this is a very nice weapon, Im sure after some upgrades and tweaks this thing will be devistating. I hope when you order your L96 you get the one you want, or you get a nice little surprise like I did. I think after some paint she will become the rifle of my dreams. I hope this was a small help to some of you, if not atleast you let me rant a little lol.

 

Now I have a few questions for all you L96 guru's out there.. I have done copius amounts of reading on how to upgrade what and where and all of that, but I am still unclear as to the right combination of parts for the absolute greatest accuracy I can get out of this platform. Zero trigger or V trigger ? I know a tbb and the pdi hopup is a must. What spring for 500-550 with .40's ? All I want is to be able to hit a chest sized target from about 200 ft or so in one or two shots without question. I know alot of you have upgraded your gun and I would like to know what actually worked and what didnt. Tell me what you used and what difference if any it made. If possible show pix. I will be posting pictured reviews of everything I do with this rifle. I will try to be as detailed as I can be as far as what results I get. Thanks to woogie for some advice on parts, and thanks to all who reply.

Edited by CMDR.CARNAGE

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That little piece that you were asking about is an ammo indicator. If it is installed properly (which they used to not be, back in the day), it will "pop up" when you chamber your last round, if I recall. There should be a piece of plastic that "appears" on the magazine when you have either 1 or 0 (I forget, as I haven't deal with these sorts of rifles in awhile) rounds in the magazine, and that bit of plastic bumps up on that indicator. Also, if I recall, it's hard to notice when it pops up anyway.

 

And, while I would not consider myself an L896 guru, or even a bolt action guru, I don't think 500-550fps with a .40 (equivalent to about 710-780fps with a .20g) is necessary for 200ft, and would in fact be closer to what is needed for 300+ft shots (for reference, MarineSGT had a TM VSR-10 based gun that reached 400ft at something like 827fps with a .20g). To hit a torso at 200ft should only require a well tuned 350-400fps with a .20g using good BBs. Don't these L96's come shooting stock at about 450-480fps?

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I don't have a chrono nor access to one so I really don't know what its going at. If I had to guess Id say its close to 400 but when I go in the sunlight outside and shoot it, I can clearly see what the bb's do. The .20's are fast and go far but they curve violently in every direction. The .28's are straighter and don't go quite as far but if the wind blows just for a second they curve too. .30's do very well but they drop off alot closer, and .40's are straight as an arrow but have like no range. I am left wondering if fps has something to do with accuracy because the .40's are definatley slower but alot more accurate. I am also guessing that since my inner barrel isnt so tight ( when I put a bb in it and look thru it I can see a gap around the bb) that has alot to do with accuracy as well. The hop up in the gun is working and is very sensitive but I find the gun shoots best with hardly any hop on it. As soon as my next order from evike comes in I will have the UTG upgrade kit with spring, guide and piston. Maybe that will help a little. After that I would like to go for a trigger but I cant say which to get. The V trigger looks better suited for the gun but the Zero trigger looks stronger. I don't wanna waste 200 on a trigger get the spring and have it fall apart on me. After I get the UTG kit tho I will post as to what changes it made if any.

 

As far as the mag indicator it does nothing that I can see. Its just there lol.

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The heavier the ammo the more force is needed to get it going. That is why they look like they are going slower, and they are. If is like getting two cars up to their max speed. One is made out of carbon fiber, while the other is made out of lead......BUT..... the engine and drive train are all the same. The lead car is going to have a much lower top speed, as compaired to the carbon fiber car. The lead car is also going to stay in a straight line much more than the carbon fiber car, and will be less affected by wind and outside conditions.

 

But the lead car is going to have a lot more kenitic energy if it is was to hit something. Much the same way a heavier bb will travel slower, but will be able to hit with more force.

 

 

As far as the inner barrel...... that is a much debated topic. But the better the hop up the better the shot, reguardless of the inner barrel diameter.

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I'm not sure that analogy is entirely consistent. How would the maximum speed of the lead car be determined by its weight? I thought that would be determined by the power output of the engine and its relationship to the drag force that the car generates going at a given speed (among other things, like gears, programming, amount of straightaway space, tires, etc). Assuming the cars are the same size, but just different material, they would in theory create the same drag, and the lead car would just take much longer to reach the same top speed, but would reach it nonetheless. And the statement about kinetic energy isn't really a "useful" statement, since you leave out the assumption that they are going at the same velocity. If the CF car was going 5 times as fast as the Pb car, the Pb car would need to be 25 times heavier to have the same kinetic energy. Sure, if they are going the same velocity, the Pb car is going to have more kinetic energy. Maybe you were thinking of momentum.

 

The mag indicator will work if it is installed correctly and the parts are there to make it function properly. Try putting the magazine in when it has about 5 BBs in and see if the indicator pops up, which it shouldn't. Then, try inserting an empty mag and see what happens, as it should "activate" it. I'm sure there are videos around that demonstrate what it actually does when it's functioning properly, and it should be somewhat obvious how it's supposed to work.

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Yea, the lead car will just need to use more energy (fuel) and road to accelerate to the same velocity.

In BB/Barrel case, longer barrel with more cylinder air value.

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I ordered the Bar 10 from evike and they sent me a well rifle.

 

no wonder they have an "all returns are final" policy, and why they are the only ones with the bar 10 in stock. I wouldnt buy anything that fires a BB off evike...

 

the EXACT same thing happened to me. I just got finished with a 3 week experience from hell with evike.com trying to get a jg bar 10 g spec that I ordered. I got a well bar 10 g spec instead, sent it back, and after daily phone calls they just refunded my money instead of giving me the gun. I asked multiple times if they had the jg in stock in which they said they did.

 

anyways your gun looks awesome, especially with the fluted barrel. those barrel spacers must of taken a good chunk of time.

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You may actually have been lucky getting the Bravo. The gun that Evike is actually listing is a Double Eagle. See post #19 here from June 25.

 

http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/hear-sha...96-t222039.html

 

The DE and the Bravo may the same thing, who knows, two more rebranded versions of the Well Warrior or of whatever the gun is made by who knows who that Well started to sell and then got rebranded by UTG, TSD, etc. etc.

 

As for the trigger group, this seems to be the solution:

http://www.renegadeairsoft.com/utg-trigger...soft-rifle.html

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the EXACT same thing happened to me. I just got finished with a 3 week experience from hell with evike.com trying to get a jg bar 10 g spec that I ordered. I got a well bar 10 g spec instead, sent it back, and after daily phone calls they just refunded my money instead of giving me the gun. I asked multiple times if they had the jg in stock in which they said they did.

 

anyways your gun looks awesome, especially with the fluted barrel. those barrel spacers must of taken a good chunk of time.

 

I already gutted mine to see if it really was a Well before I thought about calling them. ended up just parting out the rifle since I already had another crappy well gun.. yeah I bet they do have the JG in stock, hence why they are the only retailer with them listed as in stock and are selling the well in it's place...

 

oh and that gun with the fluted barrel and all isn't mine.

 

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