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What is the difference between a $140, $220, $300, and $350+ gun?

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I'm reading through reviews and such, trying to really figure out what really separates a $140 JG M4, a $200 G&G M4, a $300 KWA M4, and a $400 Full Metal M4 is.

 

Obviously some have more metal parts than others. But at the end of the day, what am I paying for?

 

In other words, if I have a $140 JG M4 and my buddy goes and gets a $300 KWA M4 - is there a competitive advantage on the field out of the box? Will one last a lifetime vs. one lasts only 6 months? Is one upgradeable and one not?

 

I have zero interest in the super-specific details of realism or collecting airsoft guns. I'd like to have ONE solid, all-round competitive AEG that I can buy now, tweak with and improve with time, and not have to worry about it giving out in 6 months. I understand that it's an investment, but at the same time, I don't play often enough to justify a $500 price tag.

 

 

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All guns are upgradeable for the most part. The kwa will rape you vs the jg.

Accuracy is simply better becuase of quality hopup they (kwa) use and barrel. The internals are solid and are li-po out of the box capable for the most part and can be firing over 20rounds a second at 400fps while the jg when connected to a lipo will have something fail after a short while.. They actually fine tune and fix flaws Tokyo marui guns had, ie AoE adjustment (search the forum about it)

 

Not all guns will last a lifetime. Lambos can break down too just like a toyota

 

Most budget guns however will last a pretty long time when left stock. Though a higher end gun will last even longer even when pushing a harder spring, becuase the internals are stronger than the parta used in cheaper guns. Now sure kwa is 300 while a jd can be half of that. Does it justify the price not always. In the long run a kwa is a better choice since really needs to be done as it already does good. But a jg and spend 150$ on parts you can put in yourself will dominate the kwa. But in order to do it requires a lot of knowledge and time and depending how serious you are in airsofting it might not be worth it to do everything yourself, I mean chances are youll break something ans cost yourself more in the long run

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I'm reading through reviews and such, trying to really figure out what really separates a $140 JG M4, a $200 G&G M4, a $300 KWA M4, and a $400 Full Metal M4 is.

 

Obviously some have more metal parts than others. But at the end of the day, what am I paying for?

 

In other words, if I have a $140 JG M4 and my buddy goes and gets a $300 KWA M4 - is there a competitive advantage on the field out of the box? Will one last a lifetime vs. one lasts only 6 months? Is one upgradeable and one not?

 

I have zero interest in the super-specific details of realism or collecting airsoft guns. I'd like to have ONE solid, all-round competitive AEG that I can buy now, tweak with and improve with time, and not have to worry about it giving out in 6 months. I understand that it's an investment, but at the same time, I don't play often enough to justify a $500 price tag.

Most people around here will tell you to get the jg if you will upgrade it yourself. The big difference is typically the external quality and the internal quality. Out of the box, a g&g will probably be nicer and perform better than a jg. A KWA will perform much better if no one is using upgraded guns. I have used JG, CA, and KWA, and to me, the CA had the best externals, the KWA the best internals, and the JG had kinda lame externals (it was their g3 not the g36 that everyone loves)

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I appreciate both of your speedy replies- both were VERY helpful.

 

Based on those responses, why is D-Boy not the go-to for a cheap gun you wish to upgrade? My understanding is that the d-boy guns usually fall between $140 and $200 and often have all metal exteriors.

 

To me the problem with a JG is that it has the plastic exterior, many reviews stating that part of it has a 'wobble' of some sort. If you get the full-metal d-boy, the outside is taken care of and you just take care of the interior with time?

 

no?

 

 

Based on these first two responses, I'm leaning towards a $140-$180 M4/M16 and upgrading it as parts seem to wear or I play more/less. Unless I misread, it sounds like I can buy a $150 rig now, invest into upgrades gradually, and get to the same place I would if I had a $300-$400 gun.

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JG's tend to have a little bit better internals than the D-boys or A&K guns.

 

The JG would be a good choice for you since you want to upgrade in the future, but I would also recommend doing a few things to it when you first get it. If you reshim, regrease, correct angle of engagement, and do several other Miscellaneous Tweaks, it will perform comparably to a KWA and last just as long. Those tweaks can be done for under $10. The most expensive part is going to be the shims which cost ~$5-$7 from an airsoft retailer. The teflon and o-rings can be bought at your local hardware store.

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JG's tend to have a little bit better internals than the D-boys or A&K guns.

 

The JG would be a good choice for you since you want to upgrade in the future, but I would also recommend doing a few things to it when you first get it. If you reshim, regrease, correct angle of engagement, and do several other Miscellaneous Tweaks, it will perform comparably to a KWA and last just as long. Those tweaks can be done for under $10. The most expensive part is going to be the shims which cost ~$5-$7 from an airsoft retailer. The teflon and o-rings can be bought at your local hardware store.

 

sweet - I'll play around with those tweaks on my galaxy this upcoming week and see how comfortable I am with the process before committing to this upgrade idea.

 

Now the next question - M4 or M16?

 

100% of my airsoft is and will be in the woods.

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sweet - I'll play around with those tweaks on my galaxy this upcoming week and see how comfortable I am with the process before committing to this upgrade idea.

 

Now the next question - M4 or M16?

 

100% of my airsoft is and will be in the woods.

 

 

Careful about JG. Their quality is intermittent. For years they were crap. Then got really good (as clones). But I've heard that the past year or so they went back downhill.

You will love the sport, so consider putting in an extra $100 for a better gun.

 

As for M4 vs M16 - no real difference other than aesthetics, when it comes to airsoft.

They both have the same type gearboxes.

Some people may say an M16 with a longer barrel will be better, but that's hogwash as long as the you're talking decent internals.

(There is a guy on my field that plays with a super stubby AK varient, that has better range and accuracy than most guns on the field since he uses good parts and ammo).

 

 

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I'm still slightly puzzled on the D-Boys stuff.

 

I was just shopping external parts - many of them blow the cost of buying the actual gun out of the water. Is JG THAT much better than D-Boy in the internals?

 

It seems that if a shim job and a couple of tweaks will put a JG gun in the same category as a KWA, D-Boy wouldn't be that different.

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I'm still slightly puzzled on the D-Boys stuff.

 

I was just shopping external parts - many of them blow the cost of buying the actual gun out of the water. Is JG THAT much better than D-Boy in the internals?

 

It seems that if a shim job and a couple of tweaks will put a JG gun in the same category as a KWA, D-Boy wouldn't be that different.

 

IME, JG is much better than Dboys. Their (JG) internals can handle abuse from stronger springs. The motor and gears can handle up to SP160.

As mentioned, its just need some fine tuning to enhance it perform and longevity.

 

I would choose JG over Dboys.

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In my opinion, the added cost of a more expensive gun goes into external quality. Regarding internals, every gun has a disadvantage regardless of price; one gun could have excellent parts sans tuning, another gun could not have a neo magnet motor, while yet another gun really screws you over for trying to install upgrade parts.

 

Also, there are full metal jgs out there...

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In my opinion, the added cost of a more expensive gun goes into external quality. Regarding internals, every gun has a disadvantage regardless of price; one gun could have excellent parts sans tuning, another gun could not have a neo magnet motor, while yet another gun really screws you over for trying to install upgrade parts.

 

Also, there are full metal jgs out there...

 

Looked around on teh interwebz and saw some good looking fullmetal JG's out there - surprised they are so much more expensive. Around $100 more!

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Looked around on teh interwebz and saw some good looking fullmetal JG's out there - surprised they are so much more expensive. Around $100 more!

after a 10 second search, I'd say that the metal m4a1 and m4 s-system haven't suffered a price hike yet. Now would be a great time to buy one of those and trick it out. If you're looking for something different like a metal 416 then maybe the base price will be $100 more like you said.

I checked evike for jg prices.

Edited by TheJawn

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after a 10 second search, I'd say that the metal m4a1 and m4 s-system haven't suffered a price hike yet. Now would be a great time to buy one of those and trick it out. If you're looking for something different like a metal 416 then maybe the base price will be $100 more like you said.

I checked evike for jg prices.

 

Ah, I see.

 

Evike was down when I was searching - that's the only place I could find sub-$200 Full Metal JG M4's.

 

http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/Exclusive_.../jg-fb-6613.htm

 

That's the one I found.

 

I wonder - is the 2011 version posted here worth the extra $100 in costs? Looks to me like the only major differences are the RIS and MOSFET chip.

 

What exactly is an 'S-System Mechbox'?

 

Ah, I see.

 

Evike was down when I was searching - that's the only place I could find sub-$200 Full Metal JG M4's.

 

http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/Exclusive_.../jg-fb-6613.htm

 

That's the one I found.

 

I wonder - is the 2011 version posted here worth the extra $100 in costs? Looks to me like the only major differences are the RIS and MOSFET chip.

 

What exactly is an 'S-System Mechbox'?

 

 

Here's what seems to be the 2010 JG Metal M4

 

http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?products_id=32233

 

$100 price difference...yikes!

Edited by airborne101

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The difference between most $150 AEG's and $400 AEG's is mostly external quality. The internals are usually better on the more expensive guns, but the money your paying is more for the high quality metal parts. And when you say you should just buy a metal dboys and tune the insides, well while dboys externals are a step up from plastic, they still are nothing when compared to, say a g&p. G&p, vfc, and real sword have IMO the best externals in the airsoft industry. They will blow dboys out of the water. But again, it's for a price.

 

As for your question regarding JG internals in an s-system, and a regular m4, all of JG's "enhanced" m4's have the same internals. The only difference is in aesthetics and barrel length, depending on the model

Edited by Bomino

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FWIW, I picked up an G&G Combat Machine M4-A1 w/ blowback (I know not everyone's a fan of the mechanical blowback, but I wanted it!) for about $150; the non-blowback goes for a little bit less. It handled pretty much perfectly out of the box; once I got on the field, I just had to mess with the hop up a little and it was shooting straight and accurate, no problems, and with good distance. FPS was good enough; with the adjusted the hop-up, my shots were going where I wanted them to. Using the included hicap mag or new midcaps, I had no jams or feed problems.

 

The body isn't metal, but doesn't feel like plasticky crap and can apparently take quite a beating. If desired, G&G does offer an after-market metal upper/lower receiver, or I think they sell a metal version of the M4/M16. A lot of people on the internets complained about magazine wobble, but I didn't have any problems with it. The delta ring is a little stiff at first, but that's good right? Your handguard won't come off! I think it comes stock with a tightbore inner barrel too (6.04? 6.05?). Charging handle opens up access to the hopup, but the bolt catch is nonfunctional on this particular model.

 

From what I've heard, compatibility with parts isn't bad at all; I have a friend who has the same rifle but with a RIS, crane stock (you'd have to use one or a PEQ box if you do anything but a handguard, since that's where the battery goes), and one piece barrel, with no reported problems of having to fiddle with getting anything to fit.

 

My three complaints:

(1) The grip/trigger guard assembly: they don't sit flush where the parts meet, so without gloves it starts to bite into your hand a little

(2) the dust cover: pops open if I so much as glance at it. For some odd reason, my friend's refuses to open without some manual effort (it's supposed to open when the rifle fires due to the blowback mechanism, or when the charging handle is pulled).

(3) Barrel assembly: the outer barrel, front sight base, and orange safety tip are molded (glued?) together. If you want to swap these things out, you pretty much need new all of these.

 

I agonized for about a month and a half about what rifle to get, bouncing between the ARES G36K and the G&G M14. After looking into aftermarket parts, availability, and cost, I realized that these options cost way too much for how new I was to the sport. It was worth it to get an affordable rifle, with good compatibility and decent operation. I'm pretty happy with my purchase.

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