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locprecision

Lancer Tactical M4 CQB on going review

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Hi all, I just received 3 Lancer Tactical M4 CQBs from Airsoft Gi. Why 3 you ask? In a special pre-order promotion, Airsoft Gi was offering this model for around $80.00 and with the 13% + 2% promotion codes, I bagged each one for around $69.00 each shipped. I figured such a deal. First off, impressive packaging and getting to the gun was fairly easy. I had to wipe away a lot of styrofoam bits and pieces to give it a quick visual inspection. Nothing broken and it felt light at 4 lbs. with mag and battery installed. Battery and mag seemed and functioned normal. Hop-up which is clear plastic, adjusted easily after pulling the charging handle to expose it. Squeezed off a few shots through the chrono and got 390fps. Just a few shy of AG's chrono findings. That's all for today. Tommorrow, I'm going to violate her like a parking meter to check out its internals. locprecision.

Edited by locprecision

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All right friends take down was fairly simply. After I separated the main wires(wiring job looks very good), I then proceeded to remove the 2 hex head body screws, stock, motor, pistol grip, receiver pin, and magazine release. I gently pulled the gearbox straigth out the back. Once that cleared, I was able to obtain access to the hop-up assembly. The hop-up though clear plastic looks like a standard hop-up unit and functions accordingly. The brass barrel is 11 7/16" long and measures .2395" or 6.075mm for the I.D.. Now for the gearbox! Phillips head screws all around were easily removed and the top portion of the gearbox came off cleanly. Nothing really sprung out of place! Methodically, I started removing all the compnents one by one, giving each piece a visual inspection. The gearbox was decently shimmed and lubed but I wanted to see what this baby was made of internally and removed everything. I thoroughly cleaned the gearbox and components. The gears were of your standard jg variety with no surprises here. One interesting note was that the sector gear had a tappet plate delayer added to it so misfeeds would not occur. The gearbox utilizes 7mm bearing bushings that fit in the gearbox perfectly. I CA'd them in place just in case. For reference, the cylinder had a .600" X .230" slot in it. The cylinder/cylinder head assy. seem to be glued....could not separate them apart so I let that go. I figured now that's a perfect seal. The nozzle stem's diameter measured .2115" and the nozzle(which was clear plastic) had an I.D. of .217". I used a small piece of scotch tape on the nozzle stem to create a better seal for the nozzle. The spring guide had bearings and was mostly steel with a plastic shaft. I've seen a few of these in service and they work satisfactory. The piston is one of the best designs that I've seen from a standard gearbox. AOE corrected(second tooth taken out) and a 9 hole vented piston head that screws in from the bottom. The complete piston weighs 20 grams. Piston had a large enough I.D. that the piston spring did not bind in it whatsoever. That's all for tonite. Will write about other support parts, re-assembly and any quirks that I might have noticed. locprecision.

Edited by locprecision

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So I know that the second tooth was removed, but a lot of pistons come like that. Was there any sort of spacer or buffer material to actually correct aoe? If so was it on the cylinder head or piston?

 

Sounds like decent internals. How sturdy do you think the externals are?

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So I know that the second tooth was removed, but a lot of pistons come like that. Was there any sort of spacer or buffer material to actually correct aoe? If so was it on the cylinder head or piston?

 

Sounds like decent internals. How sturdy do you think the externals are?

I've worked on quite a few gearboxes(over a 100) and this is the first time I've encountered a piston with its second tooth removed. There was no spacer or added buffer material. What I'm saying is that for the price of this gun, AOE is close enough. I'd only really worry about that aspect on a high speed build. Lets face it, the externals are plastic. A little wobble in the mag well and with stock extended. All easily corrected with minimal effort. With reasonable care and common sense, this piece should last. Don't forget every shooter treats his equipment differently. So only time will tell.

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I recently received one in the mail and am also very impressed by this ~$100 gun. I have the railed version, and it came with a battery, forgrip, two rail covers, 1 mag, 500-1k bbs, and a patch. The only thing missing is some face protection. I really think it's a fantastic deal for how much you pay for it.

 

I haven't opened mine yet, I'm wanting to put a bit more wear and tear on it before I do. However 600 rounds was run through it last night without an issue. ASGI chronoed the gun at 405 with .2s, we chronoed it at 385 with .2s.

 

The externals feel like a $100 gun, well, tbh, they feel like LPEG quality. But, the metal gearbox weighs enough to assure you that it's not an LPEG. Everything is decently solid on the railed version, a little wiggle room, but nothing too major. All in all, I'm very impressed with the gun. We'll see how long it lasts, and what kind of abuse it can take, and I'll make a final decision on the gun. But right now, I think it's one of the best bang for your buck guns on the market.

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I meant a lot of aftermarket pistons com with the second tooth removed. I was thinking that they just threw one of those pistons in there without doing anything else. But it's nice to see that some manufacturers are catching on to things like angle of engagement.

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With all parts cleaned, I started re-shimming the gears which is easily done since the bearing bushings were CA'd in place. Once accomplished, I make a small chart on shim thickness and quantity and carefully take them out of the gearbox and set aside. Now, I started to re-assemble the gearbox. The selector plate, cut-off lever, and trigger stop/safety were of standard fair and were put into their respective places. The trigger switch assembly was installed next and looked clean with good wire/solder joints. The trigger was positioned and stayed in place(yeah). One by one, I carefully lubed the gears and put the spur gear then sector gear into their respective places. I then installed the AR latch followed by the bevel gear. Piston was lubed and compression checked in the cylinder/cylinder head assembly with lubed nozzle. Excellent! I then attached the tappet plate(had to sand sides smooth...just my personal preference) with its spring and put this assembly in its position in the gearbox. The piston spring is short but strong and transfers most of its energy before the piston reaches home. This is very good for gearbox front ends. With everything in place, I closed the gearbox up without a hitch. Tommorrow, I elaborate some on the motor and final testing results. locprecision.

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Before I put the gun completely back together, I wanted to work on the hop-up barrel assembly. I removed the barrel and hop-up rubber cleanly from its clear plastic housing. I then gently cleaned all components. Barrel stats can be found in my first post. Using clear silicon caulk, I placed some on the barrel and pushed the hop-up rubber in place. Once in place, I put some more silicon in the area where the barrel clip sets. I then finish aligned the barrel in the hop-up housing and place the barrel clip in place along with the barrel small positioning ring. Here's a trick that I use. After everything is in order, I take a 30" length of carpet thread and wrap it tightly around the barrel clip and housing. This will cure and makes the clip rest firmly against the barrel notches to lock it in place. I set this assembly aside to cure for a few hours. When cured, I take the thread off and slip on the barrel spring. If there's a little silicon around the outside of the assembly, it can be rubbed right off. One good plus with the clear hop-up housing is that you can actually see where your nozzle rests in relation to the hop-up rubber. With the hop-up assembly properly installed, I proceeded to completely re-assemble the M4. Once assembled, I proceeded to take her outside and run a few mags through it. After adjusting the hop-up, I got it shooting consistently head size shots at about an estimated 100 ft. Went through 3 mags very quickly with flawless feeding. Afterwards, it chronoed 405-395 fps. and 700rds a minute. In conclusion, this shooter has got to be the best out there for the money. On a whole, it's a load of fantastic plastic. Most people will pick this up for around $80.00. There is NO piece out there which gives you more bang for the buck than this. Sure, its externals are plastic, but as common sense rules, you shouldn't be knocking down doors with it. Excercise a little care and this should be an excellent starter or back-up gun. locprecision

Edited by locprecision

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Hi epiphany, how would I tell the difference? Let me know, locprecision.

Hey Loc, if you look inside the motor can the magnets along the curved part of the motor will be dark if ferrite and silver if neo. A ferrite motor will be fairly easy to turn and a neo will give good resistance. A neo will also have much more magnetism and a good neo will hold a screw through the pistol grip when mounted in the gun.

 

Just wanted to add that I love this review. This is the kind of detail that I am looking for when I want to know about a gun. I know by now that you never post pics and must say that this review doesn't need them because you use so much description I can see it in my head! One question, how is the quality of plastic. Is it just abs like a JG plastic body or is it nylon impregnated like a G&G combat machine? Does the body feel like it can take a little abuse. I want to know because my team will be looking for some loaners for beginners and from the internals it seems like I can tune this to be very competitive and reliable. I like theat the barrel diameter is almost 6.08. That means it should handle almost any bb with ease.

 

Thanks for such a detailed inspection man!

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Thanks Anachro for the motor info, I'll check that out later today! The plastic on the LT has the look, feel, and strength of a standard JG M4A1. It's definately not like a G&G stock. I checked the barrel I.D. using delrin plug gages that I machined a few years ago. Being a very hard slippery plastic, they're very accurate and won't score the barrel I.D.. Also, thanks for the kind words. locprecision.

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Hey guys!

I'm new here and this is my first aeg (well actually it's the RIS carbine but I don't think that makes too much difference) .

I just ordered it off airsoftgi and am waiting to receive it.

Sounds great for the price! and also, thanks for the detailed review! couldn't find anything like that anywhere else.

 

I have some questions if you don't mind :-)

 

What are the specs of the battery they provide?

Would you recommend getting a different battery?

How do I do maintenance on this gun?

What bb weight should I use? (I have 0.20s and 0.23s currently)

 

BTW this will be my backyard gun because I don't plan on going to airsoft wars until later :-)

 

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sorry I;m a Newbie

 

how do I get the battery in?

and also does the battery come fully charged? because I don't have a smart charger yet so idk if I need to charge it when I first get it

Read the instruction manual that came with your gun for battery installation. My batterys came charged a little. I did put each one on a proper charger to discharge/charge them in order to bring them up to max voltage. locprecision.

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I hope I'm not breaking any rules by bumping this thread or anything.

 

I've been looking into buying a Lancer Tactical M4 MK18. But after researching, I'm questioning whether I should or not. It's another 60$ for a JG M4, and I don't want to pay that much. On the other hand, I could buy a CYMA or Combat Machine AK, but they both would be 50$ or 60$ more expensive as well. A guy on another forum said he had two Lancer Tacticals, and they both jam every other shot. He said a friend of his bought a Lancer M4 that jammed EVERY shot. Now, I'm not going to call myself gullible. This report seems a bit questionable to me. Other reviews are generally positive, one guy said his jams frequently if he doesn't clean it after each game (but that's something I could handle).

 

But I'm not so sure about Lancer Tactical anymore. Iocprecision, you said you bought 3 Lancers. By now you must have a sound idea as to how these guns last and perform overtime.

 

In short, I'm looking for a beginner's AEG that will last me a few years. Does Lancer Tactical meet those standards? I was kinda hoping for an M4, but if I have to go with an AK or spend the extra for a JG M4, I'm not even sure I'll try. Lancer Tactical gave me the hope that I could cheaply get into the sport, with a delicate but performing gun that will last me a year or more. I'm questioning that hope now.

 

What are your thoughts on the Lancer M4?

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I hope I'm not breaking any rules by bumping this thread or anything.

 

I've been looking into buying a Lancer Tactical M4 MK18. But after researching, I'm questioning whether I should or not. It's another 60$ for a JG M4, and I don't want to pay that much. On the other hand, I could buy a CYMA or Combat Machine AK, but they both would be 50$ or 60$ more expensive as well. A guy on another forum said he had two Lancer Tacticals, and they both jam every other shot. He said a friend of his bought a Lancer M4 that jammed EVERY shot. Now, I'm not going to call myself gullible. This report seems a bit questionable to me. Other reviews are generally positive, one guy said his jams frequently if he doesn't clean it after each game (but that's something I could handle).

 

But I'm not so sure about Lancer Tactical anymore. Iocprecision, you said you bought 3 Lancers. By now you must have a sound idea as to how these guns last and perform overtime.

 

In short, I'm looking for a beginner's AEG that will last me a few years. Does Lancer Tactical meet those standards? I was kinda hoping for an M4, but if I have to go with an AK or spend the extra for a JG M4, I'm not even sure I'll try. Lancer Tactical gave me the hope that I could cheaply get into the sport, with a delicate but performing gun that will last me a year or more. I'm questioning that hope now.

 

What are your thoughts on the Lancer M4?

 

As Chris just stated, they don't jam. But I can't vouch for the other people out there. Most likely, the cause of most jams is cheap, bad B-Bs. If you're still hesitant about a Lancer Tactical purchase, Airsoft Gi has a special on Jg M4s with an extra hi-cap mag for 99.00. Bring that total to over 100.00 and get free shipping as well.

Edited by locprecision

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Thanks Guges, Iocprecision.

 

As I'm new to more serious airsofting, and know little at all about upgrading, that JG is a tempting option. I hadn't seen that special. But the Lancer has some definite advantages over a JG M4. I think that I may end up buying the Lancer and putting in bushings or better bearings so that it will last longer. If I can learn how to do that.

 

Anyway, thanks again.

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So how close was your gun to the Airsoft GI Lancer tactical LT01C m4 m733? I’m trying to see if the outer barrel is metal and if any JG external parts will fit on it. And sorry for the Necro post I figured it was an on going topic. Link of the gun in question https://www.airsoftgi.com/product/Lancer-Tactical-LT01C-M4-M733-Commando-Carbine-AEG-Airsoft-Rifle-Black-24700/ 

80DF6928-CD00-49F3-A5B9-B8D61E4D78C0.jpeg

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