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boxman

Time for a new gun g&p vs. vfc

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Ok so as the title states it is time for me to get a new gun. I have been trying to decide what gun to get for the past couple of months with little sucess. I have been able to narrrow it down to three options. And now I am asking any of you with experience with these guns or similar ones from the same company for any help or info on them.

 

Option number 1 g&p sr15 URX

http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?products_id=39796

 

Option number two Elite Force (vfc) 4crs

http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?cPat...oducts_id=38527

 

Option number three vfc mk18 mod 0

http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?cPat...oducts_id=39697

 

Any help is much appreciated thanks

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Forgot to mention my experience with them ............Own 8 VFC's & 2 G&P's. Just ditch the stock VFC piston & drop in a SRC (red, 6 metal teeth) and never look back. I've got one running at 540fps <AT> 35rps......(Batt stat's......14.8v 1600mah 35c). It's been that way for quite some time now & it rapes :)

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Forgot to mention my experience with them ............Own 8 VFC's & 2 G&P's. Just ditch the stock VFC piston & drop in a SRC (red, 6 metal teeth) and never look back. I've got one running at 540fps <AT> 35rps......(Batt stat's......14.8v 1600mah 35c). It's been that way for quite some time now & it rapes :)

 

 

Lolz,

 

Actually, One of those 2 G&P's is mine... ;-) But, he know's what he's talking about no doubt.

The G&P that I have is the Magpul MOE CQB.

 

G&P makes good guns. They will shoot, but, they have some quirks to them that (Sadly) in my opinion make VFC a better gun.

VFC seems to have quite a bit better Quality Control over what they let leave the factory. The other G&P that Standard4130 is referring to is an M249. It came from the factory complete with a cracked Gearbox.

 

If you buy a G&P, you will want to get rid of the "Explosive" piston head. They have that nickname for a reason... Also, the Dust Covers were engineered to NOT Close, and the bolt catch is not functional, and,

as far as I'm aware, most if not all of G&P's M4's have a 14mm Clockwise thread on the end of their barrels. The standard flash hider / suppressor thread is 14mm Counter Clockwise.

I run my rifle on an 11.1v 2200mah 25c lipo and let me tell you, rate of fire was awesome for about 200 rounds worth. That is when the stock G&P M120 (High Speed) motor blew. Guess what it was replaced with. A stock VFC Motor. That stock VFC motor has been running great for the last year and a half.

 

All of the things mentioned that are quirky with the G&P's are not that way with the VFC's. I also believe VFC's finishes are quite a bit better as well.

The only 2 or 3 things wrong with the VFC's are:

1. It's piston should be changed as Standard4130 says, if you upgrade the spring. If the spring is left alone, the stock piston will work great.

2. If you change pistons and decide to not use the SRC, be very aware of how tight or loose the pistons guide rails are when installing. This is a moot point if you never replace it.

3 The only other thing you should have to worry about is the fake bolt. The piece of sheet metal that slams forward when you release the bolt catch has a tendency to sheer the teeth off of the little hop-up gears over time unless you take it out and grind a nice radius / relief on the top forward corner.

 

So, in short, if you are looking for an airsoft rifle that is rock solid and built the closest to one that is real, Buy yourself a VFC.

If these things don't really matter to you, and you initially would like to save a few bucks (and I literally mean just a few), then buy a G&P. :a-blushing:

Edited by Nosedive4130

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Achilles heel of a VFC. Self shimming gears...who puts in plastic on a high stress part?

 

Another disadvantage of VFC are the light trademarks...Their stamping process is rther lacking. And unfortunately for you VFC Mk18 are not readily available in HK....very short supply and the US rebrands are not built to the same quality as their own line.

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... why no one mention the stock VFC auto-shim gears as bad? No matter which you get, I would swap out the gears. The piston to the VFC is trash but so is that whole auto-shim method.

 

Edit: Well Guges brought it up but I was posting before I saw his. No update messages on new posts. :(

Edited by ZaCkOX

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As the proud owner of a G&P MK18 and a VFC HK416 and a VFC socom gear 12 inch, and the proud owner of MANY g&p's im here to give you the pros vs cons.

G&P

Higher quality externals, comes with the G&P m120 motor

Comes with a good piston

The trademarks are engraved DEEPER and BETTER than VFC

G&P has more weapons to offer than VFC.

 

Likes to snap gear shafts right out of the gate

 

 

VFC

Everything fits together TIGHTTTTTT. no wobble.

VFC stock motor is of decent torque, however it is not a neo magnet motor.

Stock gears are OK. I've ran them plenty nice and hard, too.

There gearbox shells are beyond stellar. The 8MM bushings they come with are BEYOND brilliant. They come glued in, and are flush to the gb shell. Make shimming easy.

 

Comes with a "bad" (in some context) piston.

Comes with a nice and heavy aluminum piston head. (good and bad..)

 

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Sorry Nosedive, You know that when I speak here on forums I claim yours and Mustang's guns also because I get to shoot & work on them (with you) often...... Between the three of us Mustang and I counted 20 guns yesterday for our inner circle. Now that that's out of the way...... I'd like to address this VFC's gear set issue....... What issue?? I've never had a problem with the self shimming gear set ever....period. This is confirmed in the 8 total VFC's we have...... 2 m16's, 1 m4, 1 ak, 1 pdw, 1 escort, 1 scar, & 1 surprise for you Nosedive................ Ok, I give............ 1 - 417..............LOL. All of them amazing...... Two are running sp150's at 30+ ROF. All of them on 30+ amp 11.1v Lipo's...... One's running a 14.8v <AT> 56 potential amps. None are running below sp120 springs. The piston is strait garbage beyond a sp120 spring.....But pistons are cheap. The Colt traded one's are engraved not stamped if you can find one overseas. The gearbox is fantastic I would agree...... Even if you blow one it will only set you back $30 for a new shell off of WGCSHOP. Don't swap the gears though!!

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Sorry Nosedive, You know that when I speak here on forums I claim yours and Mustang's guns also because I get to shoot & work on them (with you) often...... Between the three of us Mustang and I counted 20 guns yesterday for our inner circle. Now that that's out of the way...... I'd like to address this VFC's gear set issue....... What issue?? I've never had a problem with the self shimming gear set ever....period. This is confirmed in the 8 total VFC's we have...... 2 m16's, 1 m4, 1 ak, 1 pdw, 1 escort, 1 scar, & 1 surprise for you Nosedive................ Ok, I give............ 1 - 417..............LOL. All of them amazing...... Two are running sp150's at 30+ ROF. All of them on 30+ amp 11.1v Lipo's...... One's running a 14.8v <AT> 56 potential amps. None are running below sp120 springs. The piston is strait garbage beyond a sp120 spring.....But pistons are cheap. The Colt traded one's are engraved not stamped if you can find one overseas. The gearbox is fantastic I would agree...... Even if you blow one it will only set you back $30 for a new shell off of WGCSHOP. Don't swap the gears though!!

Agree to all of this, however, G&P's trademarks are engraved deeper. I never had an issue with vfc auto shimming gears either..

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But a lot of people can say G&P gear shafts don't break too. The fact is, the problem does exist. It may not have happened to you but others it has. I would totally recommend taking out the springs and trading for shims. You may not believe the problem however I suffered the problem quite quickly. The cost to change the springs out is cheap and since you are changing the piston why not shim it properly. As why they don't break in all? Springs are not all the same. What failed in mine was a plastic shim which I don't understand why VFC installed it. The other issue is the springs ARE NOT STRONG which meant the gears could shift out of place.

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But a lot of people can say G&P gear shafts don't break too. The fact is, the problem does exist. It may not have happened to you but others it has. I would totally recommend taking out the springs and trading for shims. You may not believe the problem however I suffered the problem quite quickly. The cost to change the springs out is cheap and since you are changing the piston why not shim it properly. As why they don't break in all? Springs are not all the same. What failed in mine was a plastic shim which I don't understand why VFC installed it. The other issue is the springs ARE NOT STRONG which meant the gears could shift out of place.

 

I've never seen a plastic shim in any of the gearboxes I mentioned above...... And I've been into all 8 of them. I've never had a gun shoot as smooth as my current build which is on the stock 16:1 VFC's....... What exactly happened to yours? The plastic shim failed & caused what to happen? I'm very curious as I've got several generations of their gearboxes..... Are you talking about the plastic sector clip?

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I've never seen a plastic shim in any of the gearboxes I mentioned above...... And I've been into all 8 of them. I've never had a gun shoot as smooth as my current build which is on the stock 16:1 VFC's....... What exactly happened to yours? The plastic shim failed & caused what to happen? I'm very curious as I've got several generations of their gearboxes..... Are you talking about the plastic sector clip?

 

It was definitely a plastic shim, it broke in pieces and was in the grip. The piston was totaled. I was using a 8.4volt and shot under 5,000 rounds. I replaced the gears and shimmed it myself. It was way smoother. I didn't have a dremel at that time but if I did I would of dremeled the sector and delay to be straight therefore shims could go evenly on top. The gears are good just not the self-shimming.

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It was definitely a plastic shim, it broke in pieces and was in the grip. The piston was totaled. I was using a 8.4volt and shot under 5,000 rounds. I replaced the gears and shimmed it myself. It was way smoother. I didn't have a dremel at that time but if I did I would of dremeled the sector and delay to be straight therefore shims could go evenly on top. The gears are good just not the self-shimming.

 

 

I'm almost positive that the insulator shim in you motor kicked the bucket..........It rides between the com tower & the bearing up inside the end bell on the motor. There is hardly little to no room for something that breaks in the gearbox to end up down in the grip. And I think the piston just gave out like they all do as mentioned.

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I'm almost positive that the insulator shim in you motor kicked the bucket..........It rides between the com tower & the bearing up inside the end bell on the motor. There is hardly little to no room for something that breaks in the gearbox to end up down in the grip. And I think the piston just gave out like they all do as mentioned.

 

I put it back together and a shim was missing. That shim went on the sector gear. Without it, the spring made the gear shift back and forth. This shifting ate the piston teeth. That is what happened. I put the gears into another setup with the springs and metal shims to replace what broke. I checked the gears before closing the gearbox and the springs were weak. About 10k rounds later the gears broke... why? Because they shifted. We can blame it on an older generation but the fact is the design is flawed. I am certain it is not old either, I bet if I open another VFC it will have exactly the same design.

 

I'll wait for others to post their findings with the self-shimming. I am not the only one that will post negative about them.

Edited by ZaCkOX

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I put it back together and a shim was missing. That shim went on the sector gear. Without it, the spring made the gear shift back and forth. This shifting ate the piston teeth. That is what happened. I put the gears into another setup with the springs and metal shims to replace what broke. I checked the gears before closing the gearbox and the springs were weak. About 10k rounds later the gears broke... why? Because they shifted. We can blame it on an older generation but the fact is the design is flawed. I am certain it is not old either, I bet if I open another VFC it will have exactly the same design.

 

I'll wait for others to post their findings with the self-shimming. I am not the only one that will post negative about them.

 

I know you are not the only one who has something negative to say about them....I see this VFC's auto shimming gears are defective design post all the time. I own an older 1st generation VFC Ak, running a stock piston, Sp120 spring, stock auto shim gears & on 11.1 lipo. It's been shooting nonstop since day one....... two owners for probably 4 years now. But that sucks you've had a problem with yours.....

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The "self-shimmed" design is absolutely stupid in any way and form if you look at it from a mechanical standpoint. The spring is inherently weak, and applying an inferior design with inferior parts = recipe for disaster along with bad structural consistancy/integrity. Why anyone would make that kind of system is beyond me; particularly with something that is designed to have torque applied to it in large amounts. There's a reason why shims are placed in the gearbox; to REMOVE side-to-side movement and keep the teeth mated correctly. Shims are not variable, so it's impossible to get things out of alignment if done correctly. Relying on a weak spring to hold everything together under force is just silly. We don't carry any of VFC's products just for this particular design choice. Their externals I can't knock on, but the gearbox is definitely the most important part of any gun.. and that's something they took 2 steps forward, and about 15 steps back.

Edited by Dave@PBO

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Hmmmmmm....Oooooooo K... :) My Jeeps manual transmission handles all kinds of torque and for the most part the gears free float & are moved by forks manipulated by a hand controlled stick on a pivot point. I've had nothing but the best success with VFC's gear sets under normal & some times not so normal use. For their design intent, they work just fine....... I've got 8 of these puppy's rocking & rolling every weekend, That's a lot of missed sales from just one customer that's like minded like myself. Some people can break an anvil with a glass hammer though............ :)

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Hmmmmmm....Oooooooo K... :) My Jeeps manual transmission handles all kinds of torque and for the most part the gears free float & are moved by forks manipulated by a hand controlled stick on a pivot point. I've had nothing but the best success with VFC's gear sets under normal & some times not so normal use. For their design intent, they work just fine....... I've got 8 of these puppy's rocking & rolling every weekend, That's a lot of missed sales from just one customer that's like minded like myself. Some people can break an anvil with a glass hammer though............ :)

 

The gearsets aren't the problem, it's how torque is applied to the gears. Your transmission has little in common with the gearsets in an airsoft gun; particularly because of how the gears operate on the shaft from a "free float" idealogical standpoint.. because they can operate independently from one another on the gearshaft when torque is applied without screwing anything up. Chances are your rearend has more in common with the AEG gearbox than anything because it most likely has clutch plates that do the same job as your shims would in many regards. Having a giant spring to keep tension behind the ring and pinion would be a massively stupid idea, and that's essentially what VFC decided to do.

 

Also keep in mind that you're not the typical customer. For every 1 customer that spends that kind of money on high dollar AEG's I get 100 that don't. It's hard enough to convince someone that a $400 airsoft gun is actually worth the money, let alone eight of them.

 

I don't have VFC hate, but their design was honestly just dumb. There's no way around it. They should've just stuck to the regular design like everyone else because when that spring fails, your AEG's gearbox won't be lasting long either.

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Springs loose their torque overtime... known fact. Springs holding a gear to be shimmed... well don't need to continue our point. Eventually failure happens and it will happen when shims could of prevented it completely. Just because it hasn't happened to you doesn't mean the design is good.

 

Oh another note, I would probably still buy VFC anyway but fix the design. I love VFC bodies more than any other brand.

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I put it back together and a shim was missing. That shim went on the sector gear. Without it, the spring made the gear shift back and forth. This shifting ate the piston teeth. That is what happened. I put the gears into another setup with the springs and metal shims to replace what broke. I checked the gears before closing the gearbox and the springs were weak. About 10k rounds later the gears broke... why? Because they shifted. We can blame it on an older generation but the fact is the design is flawed. I am certain it is not old either, I bet if I open another VFC it will have exactly the same design.

 

I'll wait for others to post their findings with the self-shimming. I am not the only one that will post negative about them.

 

Ok, so last night I was in one of my VFC's gearboxes because it's stock piston kicked the bucket finally...... My memory's fresh so here we go. The only gear that is shimmed on both sides is the bevel gear which makes the most sense for the design because it's torque transfers 90 degrees from the motor pinion to the bevel gear and causes this gear to spread/shift to the side under load. The spur & sector gear have strait cut teeth and are only shimmed on one side, the side without the springs. (absolutely no plastic shims present here) Because the spur & sector gears are strait cut they should have no tendency to spread apart or shift under torque as long as the gear shafts are parallel to one another and they are . The spur gear has the largest diameter spring & inside it rides a metal spring guide that serves two purposes, #One to guide & reinforce the shaft & #Two to limit the gears travel to the sides, aka shifting. The sector gear has the smallest spring & uses the gear shaft itself as the guide....It's travel is limited by the compression limit of the spring (about .5mm).

 

I stopped shooting early as soon as the first signs of trouble appeared to minimize piston damage so I could evaluate the cause of piston failure. On the teeth that are still intact there is no visible wear (30,000 rounds or so on this one)..... The problem with the piston from what I've seen is not a gear set related issue, The piston is a single metal tooth design which has little to no support underneath reinforcing it from the spring release pressure. It's my opinion that the stock VFC piston breaks from shooting burst in full auto where by chance the piston may stop in the pre-cocked position under full spring tension. Then when the next shot is took the extra bump in torque exceeds the amount of force this single tooth can handle. The piston is definitely the week point as I see it in VFC's system, not the gear set. I think some people have their trouble with the gear set after they replace the piston for the first time. VFC's gearbox rails are tight on most pistons........ If you are not aware of this and install just any piston inside to replace the stock one then this is where your problem lies in busting VFC's gear sets!! Say you throw in a SHS piston in a VFC gearbox without modifying either the piston itself or the gearbox rails......You screw it back together and you are pinching the piston without even realizing it, Hook up that battery and pull the trigger.... You WILL toast the gear set with a quickness..... This is why I recommend the SRC red 6 metal tooth piston as a direct drop in replacement in a VFC gearbox...... It's properly dimensioned to move freely within the stock gearbox, has the second tooth pre-removed & has 6 metal teeth that are well supported underneath them. You can run all the other brand pistons you want but you need to test fit them inside the tightened up gearbox first.

Edited by Standard4130

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The gearsets aren't the problem, it's how torque is applied to the gears. Your transmission has little in common with the gearsets in an airsoft gun; particularly because of how the gears operate on the shaft from a "free float" idealogical standpoint.. because they can operate independently from one another on the gearshaft when torque is applied without screwing anything up. Chances are your rearend has more in common with the AEG gearbox than anything because it most likely has clutch plates that do the same job as your shims would in many regards. Having a giant spring to keep tension behind the ring and pinion would be a massively stupid idea, and that's essentially what VFC decided to do.

 

Also keep in mind that you're not the typical customer. For every 1 customer that spends that kind of money on high dollar AEG's I get 100 that don't. It's hard enough to convince someone that a $400 airsoft gun is actually worth the money, let alone eight of them.

 

I don't have VFC hate, but their design was honestly just dumb. There's no way around it. They should've just stuck to the regular design like everyone else because when that spring fails, your AEG's gearbox won't be lasting long either.

 

Dave, I'm going to chalk up most people's problems with VFC's as a misunderstanding of it's intricacy's..... If you'll read my above post you'll see part of what I'm talking about. I also miscalculated how many of these suckers I've got..... 8 total guns but 9 total gearboxes <- moot point of having one more.....LOL. I've been in the game for 4 years or so and started with a VFC which continues to be the best killing gun of them all.....I guess it's a first love thing :) I've got other branded guns & I'm around so many more (I tech for the large part of our group) so I do get to eat the grass on the other side of the fence too. They all have their "problems" and they all are parts picky situation depending........ I find VFC no worse than the other "best" guns out there.

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Dave, I'm going to chalk up most people's problems with VFC's as a misunderstanding of it's intricacy's..... If you'll read my above post you'll see part of what I'm talking about. I also miscalculated how many of these suckers I've got..... 8 total guns but 9 total gearboxes <- moot point of having one more.....LOL. I've been in the game for 4 years or so and started with a VFC which continues to be the best killing gun of them all.....I guess it's a first love thing :) I've got other branded guns & I'm around so many more (I tech for the large part of our group) so I do get to eat the grass on the other side of the fence too. They all have their "problems" and they all are parts picky situation depending........ I find VFC no worse than the other "best" guns out there.

 

I think they make great guns, honestly (minus the SCAR; that thing can burn in the deepest pits of hell). I just don't agree with their gearbox design choice. That's about my only gripe with them, really.. did I mention I hate their SCAR's? Haha.

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I think they make great guns, honestly (minus the SCAR; that thing can burn in the deepest pits of hell). I just don't agree with their gearbox design choice. That's about my only gripe with them, really.. did I mention I hate their SCAR's? Haha.

 

LOL..... Awwwww, No love for the Scar? They are not my first choice either but my brother has had good luck with his and says it's his favorite. :)

 

It's only mildly tuned though.........the stock piston blew running a sp120 after a year of use [typical....LOL]........He's on stock piston #2 now and we'll see how long it goes before it kills over.

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LOL..... Awwwww, No love for the Scar? They are not my first choice either but my brother has had good luck with his and says it's his favorite. :)

 

It's only mildly tuned though.........the stock piston blew running a sp120 after a year of use [typical....LOL]........He's on stock piston #2 now and we'll see how long it goes before it kills over.

 

We had one come in privately for repair about two months ago... BRAND NEW gun. Never fired. Motor was too weak to pull the spring back and stripped the piston. Haven't seen anything like that in awhile. Taking that SCAR apart was a massive headache.. not fun to do.

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We had one come in privately for repair about two months ago... BRAND NEW gun. Never fired. Motor was too weak to pull the spring back and stripped the piston. Haven't seen anything like that in awhile. Taking that SCAR apart was a massive headache.. not fun to do.

 

Somewhat contradicting statement about a weak motor that strips pistons........LOL. (and the lower comes off quick but not so quick getting inside the gear box) But I understand what you're saying........ My very first VFC did that to me, stripped the piston almost immediately out of the box. This is where my experience with VFC's started back 4 years ago and why I'm standing by my statements made previously in this thread. I will tell you that I did some serious part testing/compatibility discovering right off the bat with this first gun of mine.... :)

 

 

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It could be easier to take it apart however VFC just made it complicated. Not sure why... If you get the gearbox out, it is easy from there. Then when putting it back in, augh. I have gotten it down because of how much I have done it but my first time, I was just fumbling with how the selector gears go in.

Edited by ZaCkOX

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It could be easier to take it apart however VFC just made it complicated. Not sure why... If you get the gearbox out, it is easy from there. Then when putting it back in, augh. I have gotten it down because of how much I have done it but my first time, I was just fumbling with how the selector gears go in.

 

 

That part alone is what made the gun so incredibly frustrating. Oh, and it stripped the piston because it was just strong enough to pull the piston half-way and "let go" while still trying. Literally half of the piston was perfect, and the other half was.. well.. not there at all.

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That part alone is what made the gun so incredibly frustrating. Oh, and it stripped the piston because it was just strong enough to pull the piston half-way and "let go" while still trying. Literally half of the piston was perfect, and the other half was.. well.. not there at all.

 

So, you're saying it stripped the piston not at the metal release tooth but at the pickup tooth end?

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Metal tooth was fine. Every tooth after that until the midsection of the piston was completely stripped down to the base.

 

Kinda sounds like a pre-engagement issue........ I'm not putting aside that fact that you said the motor was a dud though, but they are all tested at the factory off of a 12v car battery before packaging. :) Maybe the factory guys broke it on the last test shot and didn't notice......LOL.

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Kinda sounds like a pre-engagement issue........ I'm not putting aside that fact that you said the motor was a dud though, but they are all tested at the factory off of a 12v car battery before packaging. :) Maybe the factory guys broke it on the last test shot and didn't notice......LOL.

 

I can guarantee it was a bad motor because we tested it again after the new full-metal toothed piston went in. Still couldn't pull it all the way, and tried doing the same thing. New motor fixed the problem. ;)

Edited by Dave@PBO

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I can guarantee it was a bad motor because we tested it again after the new full-metal toothed piston went in. Still couldn't pull it all the way, and tried doing the same thing. New motor fixed the problem. ;)

 

I though you would say that.............Well see, this peaks my interest..........You tested it with a new piston but are you sure the piston wasn't binding on the rails? You'd have to check it with the halves tightened up snug. VFC's gearbox is picky on replacement piston choice. If you ever get your hands on another one you'll probably see what I mean. On a side note, I swear I don't work for them or sell their products...... I'm just a believer with a fondness & understanding of the quirks they bring.....:) I'm hoping I can bring some light to these common problems people have with the product.

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I though you would say that.............Well see, this peaks my interest..........You tested it with a new piston but are you sure the piston wasn't binding on the rails? You'd have to check it with the halves tightened up snug. VFC's gearbox is picky on replacement piston choice. If you ever get your hands on another one you'll probably see what I mean. On a side note, I swear I don't work for them or sell their products...... I'm just a believer with a fondness & understanding of the quirks they bring.....:) I'm hoping I can bring some light to these common problems people have with the product.

 

We test all gearboxes before firing them up with torque to ensure they're moving internally as they should.. if you know what I mean.

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I hate to revive this post but I could not just leave what I've said in writing with a clear conscious after my new found discovery. I've just received an order of the SRC red pistons (3 total) I mentioned in some of the above post and not a single one fits properly in any of my VFC gearboxes I have apart at the moment. I'm not sure if they are from a different batch or mold but nevertheless I'm retracting my statement about them being a drop in replacement without modification. Just a heads up for any readers of this thread...........

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I hate to revive this post but I could not just leave what I've said in writing with a clear conscious after my new found discovery. I've just received an order of the SRC red pistons (3 total) I mentioned in some of the above post and not a single one fits properly in any of my VFC gearboxes I have apart at the moment. I'm not sure if they are from a different batch or mold but nevertheless I'm retracting my statement about them being a drop in replacement without modification. Just a heads up for any readers of this thread...........

 

I didn't say anything but from what I read long ago, SRC is not TM compatible while the piston to the VFC should be.

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I didn't say anything but from what I read long ago, SRC is not TM compatible while the piston to the VFC should be.

 

Hmmmmm, I've got about 3 others running in my other VFC's and they fit great.................but..............They (the pistons) were purchased a few years ago. I'm assuming that something has changed with their production methods/technique since then. (Maybe just a botched batched with poor QA)...... I've got a full house machine shop to modify any part/parts to my liking but most other people don't have that luxury so I wouldn't recommend this particular piston anymore as a drop in fit.

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